Bourgogne's Grape Revolution: The Renaissance of Aligote

Though sharing genetic material with Chardonnay, being offspring from the same parents, Pinot Noir and Gouais Blanc, Aligoté has not always enjoyed the same recognition as Chardonnay. Its lineage was already well-recognised as early as the 17th Century. A few synonyms exist including “Plant de Trois” used in Gevrey and Châtillon, with reference to its three bunches per cane. Before phylloxera, Aligoté was considered an equal to Chardonnay, and was found planted in Corton-Charlemagne and Montrachet. Though naturally vigorous as a variety, it gradually lost ground to the easier-to-cultivate Chardonnay that was producing more pleasing and accessible wine. In fact, its hardy ability to withstand the cold and tough environments had it relegated to being planted on less favourable locations, leaving the better vineyard sites in favour of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir after the ravages of phylloxera in Bourgogne. Even though there now still exist parcels of Aligoté in Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet and Pernand-Vergelesses amongst other villages, its plantings dwindled substantially, making it the second white grape variety of Bourgogne. Difficult to grow well in less favourable locations, Aligoté gained the notoriety of making tart neutral wines. At the end of the Second World War, the mayor of Dijon, Canon Félix Kir, made an effort to promote Aligoté by using the wine as the base of the eponymous cocktail, blended with a dash of Crème de Cassis to make it more palatable. He could not have anticipated that it would take three quarters of a century for Aligoté to make its comeback as a serious grape variety.

 

Perfect cheese pairing with Aligote wines from Bourgogne: Dome de Vezelay and Comte

With an area under vines of 1,800 ha, Bourgogne represents around 5% of the world’s total plantings of this variety. Elsewhere in France, only another 200 ha exist. According to “Wine Grapes” by Jancis Robinson et al, the majority of the world’s plantings are found in Eastern Europe (Ukraine, Republic of Moldova, Romania, Bulgaria and parts of Russia), with about 34,000 ha. Here the vines tend to be high yielding, thus producing wine of lesser quality. Some minor plantings can be found in Switzerland, California, Washington, Canada and Australia. To make high quality wine from Aligoté, it is important to control its yield.

Therefore, the recent renaissance of Aligoté in Bourgogne is a very welcomed development. Through the efforts of a group of dedicated growers, Aligoté is gaining traction with a new generation of Bourgogne lovers seeking wines of personality, vigour and a unique mineral expression.

 

An eager audience learning about this enigmatic variety

To celebrate the refreshed focus on Aligoté, the Bourgogne Wine Board (BIVB) kicked off the 2019 programme of live training with a special look at this long under-appreciated and misunderstood variety.

Apart from its role as a blending grape in Crémant de Bourgogne and Coteaux Bourguignons, Aligoté has its special place as the only permitted grape variety at two appellation levels in the Bourgogne hierarchy. The regional appellation of Bourgogne Aligoté was created in 1947, after a succession of laws recognising the place that this grape held in Bourgogne, a grape variety that faithfully translates the terroirs in which it is grown. Growers in the village of Bouzeron in Côte Chalonnaise understood that the terroirs in their village enabled Aligoté to be interpreted in a very unique manner and led by Aubert de Villaine, lobbied hard for this recognition by INAO. In 1979, the village name of Bouzeron was permitted to appear alongside the Bourgogne Aligoté appellation. Eventually, Bouzeron was formally awarded a village appellation in 1997 for wines made uniquely with Aligoté. At the height of its expression, Aligoté is the key varietal for a premier cru vineyard, Clos des Monts Luisants, in Morey-Saint-Denis, Côte de Nuits.

An expert from each of these three expressions of Aligoté was invited to speak about their experience with Aligoté in this edition of BIVB live training.

Sylvain Pataille explained how he started with just Gamay and Aligoté vines in 1999. He did not wish to make fruity wines, rather he wanted to make wines that spoke of terroir. He regarded Aligoté as a serious variety, that could be grown in limestone, marl or granite, in different regions. Besides the Bourgogne-Aligoté, Pataille makes 4 different cuvées of Aligoté from single vineyards. They are: the pure and saline Champ Forey, the powerful and precise Clos du Roy, the balanced and textural Auvonnes du Pépé and La Charme aux Prêtres, the ultimate expression with an intensity, complexity and minerality that is not like the others. Pataille believes in the ageing ability of Aligoté wines, and how it can develop into complex vines with 30-40 years of cellaring. When asked to compare Aligoté to an animal, he suggested “alligator”, not only for the phonetic similarity but also for the survival instincts in both grape and animal!

Pierre de Benoist of Domaine de Villaine, also admired the “wild” and “untameable” character of Aligoté by likening it to the wild horse from the Camargue, with unrestrained freedom to gallop in the wild. Bouzeron became the only village in Bourgogne to honour this variety by making it the lynchpin of its village appellation. Aligoté in Bouzeron does not taste like any other Aligoté because of the microclimates and slopes of this village and the special clone Aligoté doré.

Aligoté doré is a mutation of the Aligoté grape and has thinner skin than the original variety to allow better ripening and better balance between alcohol and acidity. Only wines made from Aligoté can be bottled as village appellation wine. When Pierre de Benoist became President of the village appellation 12 years ago, he encouraged the other growers to work with him to create a nursery to preserve the genetic material of Aligoté doré. The work based on massale sélection has allowed them to identify 11 selections of Aligoté doré that adapt best to the terroirs of Bouzeron for future plantings.

Map of Bouzeron (www.bourgogne-wines.com)

The village of Bouzeron is nestled in a dry valley, flanked on both sides by Montagne de La Folie on the east, and Montagne de L’Ermitage on the west. Vineyards adorn both hillsides of Oxfordian marl, at heights between 250 and 350 metres, thus benefiting from different exposures and the abundance of poor soils to limit the yield. To appreciate the differences, one has to taste the wines from the climats. Jean-Pierre Renard, the Official Educator of L’Ecole des Vins of BIVB, explained that climats such as La Tournelle, Les Pertuzots and Les Corcelles have a north-west exposure and vines take longer to ripen, translating into sinewy wines of greater freshness and distinct herbal complexity. On the opposite side, the climats of La Fortune, Les Clous and La Digoine for example benefit from a southeastern exposure and the morning sun, and tend to show more generosity and fuller body. Not only are the exposures different, the soil compositions vary as well. For example, Les Clous is more stoney, with more limestone, whereas Les Corcelles is more marl. While Aligoté enjoys prime hillside locations, the lower slopes are planted with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, contrary to other villages, and wine made from these two varieties could only be bottled as Bourgogne Côte Chalonnaise.


Finally, Rose-Marie Ponsot of Domaine Ponsot spoke about these special vines planted by “Uncle William” in the east-facing monopole climat of Clos des Monts Luisants, as far back as 1911. From the 2005 vintage, this premier cru has been made 100% with Aligoté grapes from vine stocks dating to 1911, despite Chardonnay and Pinot Gouges being included in this vineyard at earlier times. With cellaring, Aligoté takes on layers of complexity, almost like curry spice with iodic character, not unlike an aged Vin Jaune. Rose-Marie Ponsot shared her experience of tasting the domaine’s 1985 bottling of Clos des Monts Luisants and how it was extraordinary.



This BIVB live training finished with a tasting of 6 different expressions of Aligoté:

Bourgogne Aligoté, 2017, Domaine Catherine et Claude MARECHAL

Bourgogne Aligoté, 2016, Caves BAILLY-LAPIERRE

Bourgogne Aligoté, 2016, Domaine Manuel OLIVIER

Bourgogne Aligoté, 2015, Domaine Pierre-Louis et Jean-François BERSAN

Bouzeron, 2015, Maison Louis JADOT

Bouzeron Les Corcelles, 2016, Domaine Les Champs de Thémis

The characteristic floral, herbal and citrus scented notes were present in all six wines, with some showing more of the flinty mineral note than others. Cellar-ageing helped develop a slightly honeyed note. The two Bouzeron wines showed a rounded mouthfeel, balanced by vivacious freshness, but could both be described as youthful with much development potential. The Bouzeron Les Corcelles by Xavier Moissenet and the Domaine Bersan’s Bourgogne Aligoté received the most votes from the participants in Hong Kong, but not exclusively, with Domaine Marechal’s Bourgogne Aligoté finishing a close third.


To compensate for not being able to participate in the Q&A with Jean-Pierre (HK missed the original live session as it took place during the Chinese New Year holidays), I decided to prepare a little something extra and special to share with my guest participants. As if inspired by Rose-Marie’s comment, I brought to this tasting a bottle of 2001 Bourgogne Aligoté from the home collection to pair with a piece of Comté 18 months. The pairing was exceptional, as a beautiful Vin Jaune with some maturity would have delivered a similar effect with the nutty savoury cheese still with a fruity edge! The younger Bourgogne Aligoté was perfect with the demi-affiné Dôme de Vezelay. 

I wish to thank Berry Bros & Rudd Hong Kong for letting me host this session in their lovely tasting room.

Comte 18 months

Uniquely Bourgogne: 'Extraordinary' Appellations

15 Jan 2019:  Chardonnay and Pinot Noir represent over 90% of vine plantings in Bourgogne. This special Bourgogne wine masterclass turned the spotlight on the minor grape varieties and less common appellations that rarely make it to the export market. The class of 12 students joined me in my enthusiasm to taste the selection of wines, specially selected from the cellars of Bourgogne Wine Board ("BIVB"). #bivb

A very attentive class!

The minor varieties in Bourgogne include Aligoté, Gamay, Pinot Beurot (Pinot Gris), Pinot Blanc, Sacy, Sauvignon, César, Melon de Bourgogne and others. Aligoté alone represents about 6% of plantings, which means the others together make up about 3%.

Being an offspring of the same parents as ubiquitous Chardonnay, namely Pinot Noir x Gouais Blanc, Aligoté has not enjoyed the same international reputation as its ‘sibling’. Aligoté used to be more widely planted in Bourgogne but its low commercial appeal and difficulty to grow well slowly converted most growers of Aligoté to replant with Chardonnay. Aligoté is known for its lively acidity and notes of spring meadows, straw and lemon zest, and a crisp mineral finish. With development, you may even find honey notes. Its association with the cocktail Kir may not have done it proper justice because this grape variety has a vivacity and character that should not be masked by Crème de Cassis! But there is more to Aligoté than its name suggests – we know there are at least two distinct clones of the grape variety. Aligoté Vert, the modern clonal version, is the more widely planted and higher yielding and is typically vinified into Bourgogne Aligoté. Aligoté Doré, the thinner-skinned version that allows for a more balanced expression of alcohol and acidity when ripening, is the older version and exists amongst very old vines.

Nowhere in Bourgogne is this grape variety as celebrated as in the village of Bouzeron in the Côte Chalonnaise region. The tiny appellation of Bouzeron (1998) (only 55 ha) has made the golden version of Aligoté its raison d’être. This is an appellation dedicated to Aligoté and nothing else. The Aligoté grapes here are grown on well-exposed white marly limestone upper slopes to achieve perfect ripening. The gobelet training allows the yields to be carefully controlled. (The lower slopes are for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, sold as Bourgogne Côte Chalonnaise AOC.) Bouzeron wines have an ageing potential like no other Bourgogne Aligoté – they have been known to taste well beyond 5+ years. The perfect way to enjoy Bouzeron is with a plate of jambon persillé, but it can easily go well with a quiche and salad luncheon. Its cheese partners are Comté and CÎteaux. To celebrate the 20th anniversary of Bouzeron AOC, there is a public open day with tours around the vineyards and food/wine pairing on 14th April.

There is another high quality expression of Aligoté from the Côte de Nuits. Local, loyal practices have allowed Aligoté vines to continue to flourish from a hillside vineyard Clos des Monts Luisants, a Premier Cru Climat, in the village of Morey-Saint-Denis. Aligoté had been planted there since 1911, alongside Chardonnay and Pinot Gouges. It was not until 2005 that this monopole wine was made entirely with 100% Aligoté. This exception to the rule does not apply to other Monts Luisants white wine, which is typically based on Chardonnay. If you could get your hands on a bottle of 100% Aligoté-based Clos des Monts Luisants blanc, you would be in for a treat. The singular expression of Aligoté is so compelling here, with precision, vigour, boldness and concentration.

Gamay is synonymous with Beaujolais. Under the rule of Valois Duke Philippe the Bold, this grape variety was politically sacrificed and banned as ‘disloyal’ in 1395, making way for wider plantings of the prized Pineau-plant-fin (later known as Pinot Noir). Unbeknown to the Valois rulers at the time, Gamay does thrive better in granite soils in Beaujolais, rather than the prevalent argilo-calcaire in Bourgogne. The 1395 ban fortunately did not stretch to the Mâconnais region as the Bourgogne delimitation at the time did not stretch this far south. In certain areas of the Mâconnais we can find Gamay delivering an elegant expression when grown on granite and siliceous subsoils. Mâcon as a regional appellation can be made into white, red and rosé wines. The red and rosé wines can be made from Pinot Noir or Gamay, but Gamay typically features here. The example of Mâcon Rosé that we tried was so mineral, crisp and elegant, very unlike a Provencal rosé or one from the Loire Valley.   

Pinot Blanc and Pinot Beurot (Gris), both mutations of Pinot Noir, are permitted, for historic reasons, in a few Côte de Nuits village appellations that permit white wine, including Marsannay, Vougeot, and Nuits-Saint-Georges for the white wines. Naturally, they can also feature in Crémant de Bourgogne blends.

Sauvignon Blanc and Sauvignon Gris are the grape varieties permitted in the Saint-Bris appellation (2003) in the Auxerrois region. The terroir in Auxerrois sets this variety apart from its expression in the Loire Valley. It does not have the flinty character of the Loire Sauvignon, nor the asparagus note. Instead there is a juicy fruitiness of grapefruit and starfruit that is subtle, not overt and quite different from the more flamboyant Marlborough kiwi and passion fruit character. There is a mineral core and a saline finish that is characteristic of wines from the Kimmeridgian and Portlandian limestone soils of this northern Bourgogne region. Perfect with the goat cheeses from this region: think Charolais and Satonnay, but also saffron-flavoured dishes. Saint-Bris is mainly produced from the commune of Saint-Bris-le-Vineux, but also from the neighbouring communes of Chitry, Irancy, Vincelottes and Quenne. Total area under vines for Saint-Bris AOC is 133 ha.

César is typically a robust and vigorous variety, giving wines with deep red colour, firm tannins and intense red fruit aromas. The appellation of Irancy (1999) from the Auxerrois region permits a maximum of 10% of César to complement the lighter coloured and softer texture Pinot Noir, to give a wine that has more structure and texture in this northern region of Bourgogne. Vignerons who desire a more modern, softer, readily approachable style for their Irancy are more likely to make it with 100% Pinot Noir. (It was a shame that our wine did not contain César - it would have been an interesting illustration.) BIVB recommends Irancy as a good partner for these cheeses: Camembert, Coulommiers, Brie de Meux, Langres, Epoisses and Soumaintrain.  The producing communes are Irancy, Cravant and Vincelottes. Total area under vines for Irancy AOC is 159 ha. 

Sacy is an early-ripening white grape variety, with rather low acidity and alcohol, producing light-coloured wines. It is mainly found in the Grand Auxerrois region. Interestingly, this shares the same parents as Aligoté, Melon and Chardonnay.

Finally, Melon de Bourgogne (another Pinot x Gouais Blanc offspring) is no stranger to wine lovers familiar with Muscadet wine from the Loire Valley. It is valued for its minerality and lively acidity, and a lightness and salinity that serve so well when paired with oysters. It would appear that this grape variety had its origins in Bourgogne before migrating north to find a more faithful expression.

Therefore, this masterclass presented a very unique interest level for Bourgogne wine lovers. We also slotted in a Bourgogne Vézelay in the selection because of Vézelay’s newly promoted status as a village appellation as of 2017. We tasted a 2016 vintage – so it remained a Bourgogne Vézelay, a regional appellation. Vézelay AOC is reserved for white wines made with Chardonnay only. The wine we tasted showed a beautiful tension, mineral core and salinity at the finish that recalled the soil component of the Auxerrois region. It was elegant and sublime.

 

The selection of wines by BIVB

The wines we tasted were:

Saint-Bris, Simonnet-Febvre, 2017 (Sauvignon)

Bouzeron, Domaine Gagey, Louis Jadot, 2015 (Aligoté)

Bourgogne Vézelay L’Elégante, Domaine La Croix Montjoie, 2016 (Chardonnay)

Marsannay Les Vignes Marie, Domaine du Vieux Collège, 2015 (Chardonnay)

Mâcon Rosé, Vignerons de Mancey, 2017 (Gamay)

Irancy, Domaine de Mauperthuis, 2015 (Pinot Noir)


Each of these wines showed a distinct personality and style, whichever grape variety they were based on.  All of these wines would retail at below HK$ 200 retail per bottle if they were available in the local market. This was indeed one of the more exciting tastings I could remember, with each wine making a distinct impression, even though they all came from the same region!  Blind taste these wines on your wine-snob friends, and you might find some very interesting results!

Becoming Gevrey-Chambertin: a village synonymous with the notion of terroir

The last edition in 2018 of BIVB Live Training by the Bourgogne Wine Board was broadcast to an eager audience in world markets on 5 December. We ended the year with one of the most famous villages of the Côte d'Or, Gevrey-Chambertin. Boasting 9 Grand Cru appellations covering 73 hectares and 26 Premier Cru climats covering 81 hectares, Gevrey is a large village in terms of surface area.  The total area under vines in Gevrey is 402 ha, compared to 112 ha in Morey-Saint-Denis or 150 ha in Chambolle-Musigny.  At Gevrey, the Premier Cru production is about 20% of the total production of the village.  Only one colour (red) is permitted here, and with a single variety, Pinot Noir.

Traces of vines planted on the plains dating to the 1st Century were uncovered in the village in 2008. Vines were not planted on slopes until the monastic communities became involved in viticulture and winemaking in the 6th and 7th Centuries. An abbey built in the village in 630 CE, at the location of Bèze, received donations of vineyards, one of which was to become Clos de Bèze. The abbey of Cluny which was created in 909 CE also received vineyards in Gevrey and built a château here. During the 16th and 17th Centuries, the vinous reputation of Bourgogne was defined by the wines of Dijon and Beaune. Then in the late 18th Century, the wines of Chambertin and Clos de Bèze began to sell for more prices than those of the Dijon wines. This prompted the village to devise an initiative to boost the reputation of the village wines. In 1847, the village name was changed from Gevrey to Gevrey-Chambertin. This ingenious and effective initiative was followed by Chambolle and other villages.

To understand the diversity of this prestigious village, Jean-Pierre Renard, the Official Educator of the L'Ecole des Vins of BIVB, guided us through an explanation of the geology of Gevrey-Chambertin. Essentially, the geology of Gevrey is defined by the presence of two combes (closed-end valleys) which cut through the escarpment of the Côte de Nuits. They are Combe Lavaux, which is the largest combe in the Côte de Nuits, forming an alluvial fan of 2 - 3 metres into the plain, and the smaller Combe Grisard.

 

Source: www.bourgogne-wines.com

It is possible to divide Gevrey into three zones. The first zone starts from the northern side of the Combe Lavaux, continuing along a semi-circular slope into the village of Brochon. (Note that despite being a winemaking village, Brochon is not entitled to its own village appellation. Therefore, the vineyards on the southern side of Brochon, abutting Gevrey, are classified as Gevrey village vineyards. Those at the northern end are classified as either Fixin village wines or Côte de Nuits-Villages wines.) For this first Gevrey zone, vines are planted from 280 metres to around 380 metres near the climat of Combe Aux Moines. The vines either face fully south near Combe Lavaux to fully east at Brochon. The soils are rich in limestone and clay. The vineyards near the top of the slope often have very thin topsoil of marl, around 30 cm. The mid-slope is largely formed from a stratum of crinoidal limestone from the Middle Jurassic period, whereas near the bottom of the slope, it can be around 60 cm of topsoil on marl. Renard noted the presence of fossiled marl from the Bajocian period, Marnes à Ostrea acuminata , at the Premier Cru climats of Clos Saint-Jacques, Lavaux and Poissenot. The soil's high mineral content or its accessibility to minerals for vine roots explains the finesse and structure of these wines.


The second zone largely consists of the alluvial fan that is formed by the Combe Lavaux. At places, the top soil lies above Comblanchien limestone several metres deep that offers good drainage properties.  This area accounts for over 50% of Gevrey's production.


The third zone begins from the southern side of the Combe Lavaux, following the hillside curve where the Grand Cru appellations are located, and finally stretching to the border with Morey-Saint-Denis.  Most of these vineyards face east, with some village appellation near the top of Combe facing north east.  The altitudes are from 260 metres to 300 metres for the Grand Cru climats stretching to 340 metres for the Bel Air climat.  A number of prestigious premier cru climats are located near the Grand Cru appellations, including Champonnet, Le Fonteny, Les Corbeaux, La Petite Chapelle and Aux Combottes. The presence of  Marnes à Ostrea acuminata is noted here, in particular in the climat of Chambertin.  

Jean-Pierre Renard, L'Ecole des Vins de Bourgogne, BIVB

Renard gave us an interesting illustration of the notion of terroir. Near the exit of Combe Lavaux, the vineyards on the southern side are less sheltered from the winds and face north east.  As a result, Combe de Lavaux and Les Marchais are only classified as village appellation lieux-dits, whereas the vineyards that are on the opposite side of the Combe face fully south and they are classified as Premier Cru climats, for example, Les Verroilles, Lavaux Saint-Jacques, Poissenot and Etournelles.

Grégory Patriat, winemaker of Maison Jean-Claude Boisset, added to the demonstration of the notion of terroirs by talking about his two favourite Premier Cru climats, Lavaux Saint-Jacques and Les Cazetiers. Both are located in the first zone described above, and separated by a few hundred metres. Lavaux is a south-facing climat and generally the vines are harvested earlier here than for Les Cazetiers. There is a higher limestone content and thus explains the greater finesse and elegance of the wines, perhaps a more feminine style with more fruit-forward aromas, such as dark berries and spices.  At Les Cazetiers, whose name refers to a little castle, there is more clay in the soil and the wine here is more restrained and structured,showing silky but firm tannins.  The style is much more masculine, with perhaps a greater ageing potential than Lavaux.  The wines of Gevrey can age very well. Patriat recalled opening a bottle of 1969 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Bel Air a week ago for a client and the almost 50-year-old wine still showed vibrancy and no sign of deterioration. 

Gregory Patriat, Maison JC Boisset (source: www.jcboisset.com)

Of the 26 premier cru climats, Renard highlighted some renowned ones including Aux Combottes, Les Cherbaudes, Les Corbeaux, Clos Saint-Jacques, Champonnet, Les Cazetiers and Champeaux.  He also remarked that a number of winemakers had started to indicate on the labels the lieu-dit for some village level production.  Some noteworthy lieu-dit names include Les Corvées, Les Etelois, Les Jeunes Rois and En Songe. 

A village with so much prestige to its name has only the reputation of its wines to defend and sustain. The current generation is working hard at ensuring the quality of the soils.  Nicolas Rossignol of Domaine Rossignol-Trapet mentioned the increased use of ploughing to work the soils and control the vegetative growth around the vines, to give the soils better aeration and improved organic content of the topsoil. The village now has about 8 domaines certified organic or biodynamic, evidence that the growers are keen to preserve nature for the sustainability of this prestigious heritage.

Source: www.bourgogne-wines.com

This unique delivery of masterclass finished with a tasting of six wines, from one village lieu-dit and six premier cru climats of Gevrey.  In fact the lieu-dit is Clos Prieur, which is partly a village lieu-dit and partly a premier cru, below Mazis-Chambertin.  

The six wines were:

Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Prieur, 2016, Domaine Marc Roy

Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru les Cherbaudes, 2015, Domaine des Beaumont

Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru Clos du Chapitre, 2015, Nuiton-Beaunoy

Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru Lavaux Saint-Jacques, 2016, Domaine Harmand-Geoffroy

Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru Les Champeaux, 2016, Domaine Henri Magnien

Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru Les Cazetiers, 2016, Domaine Henri Magnien

Being faithful expressions of their climats and vintages, the six wines all varied in styles. Some showed more violet and darker fruit, others more red fruit and roses. Oak was overall very well-managed and was nicely integrated, even for the three younger Premier Cru wines from 2016.  All three wines showed an invigorating freshness and a classic vibrancy, while flaunting some lovely ripe fruit, a generous mid-palate and long finish.  It was indeed difficult for us to choose a favourite. However, the most votes did go to the Lavaux Saint Jacques by Domaine Harmand-Geoffroy, followed by the Les Cazetiers by Domaine Henri Magnien.  Les Champeaux by Domaine Henri Magnien and Les Cherbaudes by Domaine des Beaumont shared an equal third. 

Kudos to this new generation of winemakers in Gevrey for having made these high quality and expressive wines. Their work has enabled us to appreciate the nuances of the climats and the rich diversity of Gevrey-Chambertin. Gevrey was a village made by the prestige of Chambertin but its future is a living tale of application, sensibility and persistence of its men and women.

Thank you BIVB for allowing me to host this masterclass and to share this experience with our trade and media friends in Hong Kong. #BIVBRDV

Building the case for Chablis Premier Cru

8 November 2018:
Chablis Premier Cru Seminar
Chablis Climats & Vintage Variations: Why They Matter?


Around 50 local and international trade representatives attended this edition of the Chablis Premier Cru seminar presented at the HK Wine & Spirits Fair 2018 by Chablis Wines (www.chablis-wines.com). The focus of this seminar was to highlight the diversity of Chablis Premier Cru wine styles across climats and vintages. Formally recognised on 4th July 2015, the climats of Bourgogne are specific terroirs, each possessing a unique identity based on the altitude, orientation, degree of shelter, soil type and structure, and expressed by a grape variety.

 

Chablis is not just Chardonnay. Chablis is a matrix of diverse styles. We start from the three appellation levels (from Petit Chablis to Chablis & Chablis Premier Cru and finally Chablis Grand Cru), understanding that the specifications for AOC Chablis Premier Cru are covered within the AOC specifications for Chablis. Then we qualify their identities with 47 individual expressions at the Premier Cru and Grand Cru level, including 40 Premier Cru climats and seven climats for Chablis Grand Cru. We then add to this complex matrix individual house styles and vinification preferences by over 300 estates in the region. Finally we take into consideration vintage variations and harvest dates for different producers. There is a Chablis wine for each occasion, and there is a style for individual preference, whether for the consumer or the trade professional. Each side of the Serein Valley is made up of a number of side valleys, each bringing to the picture their own orientations, altitudes and soil types.

 

The aim of the seminar was to emphasise this very point, as the audience was guided through a tasting from Beauroy to Vaillons to Montmains on the left bank, then from Fourchaume, to Montée de Tonnerre to Vaucoupin on the right bank. Vintage variations were explored through the tasting of wines from the vintages of 2014, 2015 and 2016. 2014 and 2016 both had difficult growing seasons, but 2014 vintage was saved by September, after a gloomy and damp summer, producing wines of precision and crispness. The beautiful summer of 2016 turned the vintage into a success in 2016. 2015 however was one of the earliest vintages, with wines of perfect maturity. Except for hail-affected areas in Les Clos, Blanchot and Montée de Tonnerre, 2015 produced accessible wines with good maturity and balance.

 

Although there are 40 climats at the Premier Cru level, 17 climats are considered the main ones, with a number of them being flag-bearer climats. For example, Fourchaume is the flag-bearer climat for the sub-climats of L’Homme Mort, Vaupulent, Côte de Fontenay and Vaulorent. Eight of the 40 climats are considered to be the most famous: Fourchaume, Montée de Tonnerre, Mont de Milieu and Vaucoupin from the right bank, and Beauroy, Côte de Lechet, Vaillons and Montmains from the left bank. At this seminar, we would be tasting a wine from six of these eight climats. In terms of production level, eleven climats produce about 80% of the total Premier Cru production.


The wines were divided into three flights. The audience was asked to choose their favourite wines for each flight and finally, they were asked to suggest a dish to pair with their favourite wine out of the seven wines.

 

Despite the terroir diversity, all the wines clearly showed the hallmark of Chablis: freshness, purity, elegance and the unique marine minerality. This marine minerality is closely associated with the region’s geological make-up that dated 150 million years in the Upper Jurassic period, where rock movements resulted in a ‘millefeuille’ of soil formations alternating between Kimmeridgian marl and limestone, embedded with a myriad of Exogyra virgula (oyster fossils).

 

The tasting:
Flight 1: This flight compared two wines from the same vintage, produced by different producers, hence different vinification techniques. They were also from different banks and different orientiations, one facing east on the left bank, the other south west on the right bank.

Wine 1: Chablis 1er Cru Les Lys, 2016, Domaine William Fèvre 
Les Lys is a climat under the flag-bearer Vaillons on the left bank. 40-50% of this wine was vinified in French oak barrels, with average age of 6 years, and the rest in stainless steel vats. The portion in French oak barrels was aged 5-6 months on fine lees. A total of 13-14 months of ageing, with the last few months of the ageing in stainless steel vats.

Food Pairing Suggestion: Seabass or yellow tail ceviche with lime and coriander dressing


Wine 2: Chablis 1er Cru Fourchaume, 2016, Maison Simonnet-Febvre 
Fourchaume is on the right bank, with a south west exposure, hence a sunny terroir. This climat produces wines that are floral and accessible when young. They have a rounded texture and tend to be very charming. This is one of the smoothest climats.

The vinification of this wine saw no oak but long ageing on fine lees was preferred, with the wine spending 10-12 months on fine lees in stainless steel vats. The location of this climat makes it easily accessible.

Food Pairing Suggestion: I would recommend a Cantonese styled steamed garoupa.


Flight 2: Two vintages from the same climat of Montée de Tonnerre and same producer were tasted. Montée de Tonnerre is a west-facing climat on the right bank, well-protected from the east winds. The strong presence of marine minerality is explained by the concentration of Exogyra virgula and blue clay. Refined and elegant, the wines also have a powerful element, vibrancy and aromatic persistence. A prestigious Premier Cru climat with probably the greatest ageing potential.

The vinification method again differed from the previous two wines. Here the alcoholic and malolactic fermentations both took place in new barrels, with the wine then aged in stainless steel vats.


Wine 3: Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre, 2016, Charlène et Laurent Pinson Food Pairing Suggestion: Grilled lobster with butter sauce (the participant particularly referred to superior harmony, elegant structure and understated power of this wine that could only be paired with the delicate but fleshy texture of lobster with the richness of the butter sauce)



Wine 4 : Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre, 2015, Charlène et Laurent Pinson
Food Pairing Suggestion: Roasted chicken with black truffle (again the participant who suggested this dish visualised a perfect pairing, invoking the earthy notes of the truffle, married with the richness of the roasted chicken, that would pair so well with this deftly balanced while beguilingly accessible 2015 wine, with the freshness so well disguised by the opulent texture and well-portioned structure)

 

Flight 3: The last flight compared three wines from the same vintage but from different producers and different climats. All three wines were vinified in stainless steel vats, with no oak influence at all. 2014 was a tough vintage and one that could be called a vigneron vintage. It was a vintage that allowed terroirs to express themselves.


Wine 5: Chablis 1er Cru Beauroy, 2014, Domaine Sylvain Mosnier 
Beauroy is the northern most climat on the left bank, very exposed to the dry winds from the east. The slopes are very steep. Generous wines are produced here, but the smooth texture gives the impression of lower acidity and earlier approachability. The wines show more fruity character than floral.

Food Pairing Suggestion: Chiu Chow style cold crabs with be perfect with this wine. The crabmeat has a natural sweetness and the wine’s rounded texture and moderate acidity would pair extremely well. I would also add steamed har gau (Cantonese prawn dumplings)!


Wine 6 : Chablis 1er Cru Butteaux, 2014, Domaine Servin 
Butteaux is a climat under the flag bearer climat of left-bank Montmains. Butteaux is at the highest point of this side valley and has good exposure to the sun, but is also a cooler microclimate. The wines show strong minerality and generosity, but restrained by a tension that is uniquely Butteaux.

Food Pairing Suggestion: A participant said this wine took him back to an earlier Chablis and oysters experience. Nothing would pair better with this wine than the best oysters from Marennes-Oléron!


Wine 7: Chablis 1er Cru Vaucoupin, 2014, Château de Chemilly
This is naturally a warm terroir on the right bank, with exposures due south and west. However, this is also extremely exposed to wind. Here the wines are powerful and persistent, with a good volume, vibrant acidity and minerality. Citrus, white flowers and dried herbs are characters of the younger wines. A powerful wine that will evolve over time.

Food Pairing Suggestion: I loved this one. A participant suggested grilled mackerel (with horseradish). The fattiness of the fish would work very well with the acidity of the wine and yet the minerality of the fish would go so well with this broad-shouldered wine.

 

One hour was not enough time to realistically explain properly the diversity of Chablis premier cru climats and vintage variations. As the Bourgogne Wine Official Ambassador, I could only remind the participants that there was not just Chablis Premier Cru, that there were 40 climats across both left and right banks, and that vintages mattered, sometimes much more than others!

Please keep exploring to find your favourite style!

Revisiting Curnonsky's Famous Five

8 October 2018: This was a very special dinner. At Arcane Restaurant in Hong Kong, our host had invited nine friends to revisit and assess Curnonsky's famous white wine classification from the 1930s. Born Maurice Edmond Sailland in 1872 in the town of Angers, France, Curnonsky became a most influential food and wine writer of his generation. He was voted "Prince of Gastronomes" by Le Bon Gîte in 1927. In the 1930s, Curnonsky declared the following to be the world's top five white wines: Montrachet, Clos de La Coulée de Serrant, Château Grillet, Château Chalon and Château d’Yquem. And of course they were all French!

The chef had curated a very thoughtful and daring menu to go with the white wines. We were fascinated by the thought of pairing Château d'Yquem with Wagyu rump steak and a blue cheese fondue.

As we were 10 people, we had two wines instead of just one for each of Curnonsky's famous five. 

Château Grillet:

For this monopole appellation of 3.8 hectares based on 100% Viognier, we were served two vintages: 2006 and 2013, ie one pre-Pinault acquisition and one post. Château Grillet has long been a wine of great repute, and has featured in the collection of famous personalities. Thomas Jefferson visited it in 1787 and the inventory of the cellar of Château de Malmaison, residence of Empress Joséphine de Beauharnais, first wife of Napoleon I, featured 296 bottles of this wine in 1814. This property remained in the family of Neyret-Gachet between 1827 and 2011, when it was sold to François Pinault, also owner of Château Latour in Pauillac, Bordeaux and Domaine d'Eugénie in Vosne-Romanée, Bourgogne.  The property was awarded the appellation d'origine contrôlée in 1936.

Planted on steep slopes of the Rhone Valley and over 76 terraces supported by stone walls, the vines average 45 years. Detailed vineyard analysis has allowed each lot to be separately vinified, whether in oak or in tank. Ageing in French oak barrels for 18 months, with around 20% new oak.

2006 Château Grillet: a perfumed bouquet of honeysuckle, ginger and dried apricot. A voluptuous wine of intensity and concentration, with the soft acidity highlighting the succulence of the wine. Long finish. 17/20

2013 Château Grillet: by comparison, this wine showed a taut mineral core despite the relatively moderate acidity for the grape variety. The signature pear and apricot note was subtle, underscoring the youthfulness of the wine.  I particularly liked saline finish which gave the wine much needed freshness and a point of difference leading to the dry finish. I find it a very much more linear and precise expression of the appellation. It went particularly well with the dish of lightly smoked mackerel with herb mayonnaise. 18/20


Clos de La Coulée de Serrant:
Next we had the Clos de La Coulée de Serrant, a 7-hectare appellation in the Loire Valley, based on 100% Chenin Blanc, exclusively owned by the Joly family.  Vines were first planted here in 1130 by the Cistercian monks.  Declared the 'golden drop' by King Louis XI, this wine has enjoyed a very long reputation. Planted on steep slopes on thin (20-40 cm) topsoil above a red schist bedrock, the vines are oriented S/SE, with an average age of 30-40 years. The yield is around 20-25 hl/ha, compared to the permitted 40 hl/ha for the appellation.  The harvest takes place over a long time allowing the pickers to pick the grapes with the most colour maturity and presence of botrytis. The objective is to allow the grapes to express the most minerality.  Aged in 500 litre barrels, with no more than 5% new barrels. The Joly family has been practising biodynamics since 1980 and all the vineyards of the family have been fully biodynamic since 1984.

1996 Nicolas Joly, Clos de La Coulée de Serrant: The wine revealed a deep amber-golden hue. The bouquet showed maturity and complexity of toasted hazelnut, bruised apple, with caramelised notes. There was a marked level of volatile acidity. Depending on the taster's sensitivity, this VA either enhanced complexity or reduced enjoyment but it certainly gave the wine a fresh lift to the palate and finish. 16.5/20

1997 Nicolas Joly, Clos de La Coulée de Serrant: The wine showed a bright golden colour.  An attractive bouquet of honey, stewed apple, dried fruit and herbal notes. It was an opulent full-bodied wine, boasting a richness that was deftly balanced by vibrant acidity.  There was a chiseled minerality that filled the core of the wine. A wine of understated finesse. Very long finish 18.5/20

The pairing was less obvious for me as the Alaskan King Crab had a lightness to it, whereas the wines were full-bodied, though with heightened acidity.  The spiciness of the gazpacho essence was carried off nicely by the very ripe Chenin Blanc fruit though.

Montrachet: 

Possibly the finest expression of Chardonnay and a Bourgogne Grand Cru appellation, Montrachet is located across the villages of Puligny and Chassagne.  Its greatness owes much to the early study and work carried out by the Cistercian monks and the Lords of Chagny.  This Grand Cru appellation covers 7.8 hectares, and is shared by 16 owners.

The dish to accompany below wines was a Sautéed potato gnocchi with charred cévenne onion, cep vinaigrette and shiitake duxelle.  It was a very tasty dish but I thought it was a bit too overwhelming for the delicate (non-oxidised) Bourgogne wines.

2004 Comtes Lafon, Montrachet: unfortunately this bottle was heavily oxidised

2004 Ramonet, Montrachet: This was a very classy wine, showing an attractive bouquet of pear, blossom, almond and nougat, with light toast notes. The acidity was bright and the wine showed great energy in a youthful state. There was an impeccable harmony and finesse presented in a most elegant and sophisticated manner, with a core of minerality that gave the wine a very desirable tightness. Very long finish. 20/20

Our host inserted an outlyer to the Montrachets, given the disappointment with the Lafon Montrachet:
2015 Benoît Ente, Puligny-Montrachet Clos de la Truffière
A wine still showing mostly primary and secondary notes. Green apple, lime zest, blossom, almond, with flinty notes. Linear, with racy acidity and a long finish. 17.5/20

Château d'Yquem:
Château d'Yquem needs no introduction as the most famous Sauternes estate, renowned for its extraordinary richness and complexity. Included in the 1885 Bordeaux classification as the only Premier Cru Classé Supérieur in its class of Sauternes/Barsac, it has been owned by the LVMH group since 1999.  Located on the highest hill in Sauternes, the estate covers 110 hectares, 80% planted with Sémillon and 20% with Sauvignon Blanc.  Now vinified in 100% new oak barrels and aged in barrels for 36 months before release.

The chef had ingeniously paired these two wines with a Wagyu rump cap with spinach and onion compote, blue cheese fondue and girolles.

1959 Château d'Yquem: A well-matured wine, showing complexities of orange marmalade, tea leaves, apple toffee shortbread, dried fruits and honey.  There was a very positive vibrancy on the palate, reflecting a good level of energy.  The hint of VA was a positive developmental addition. Finish was dry but not unpleasant. 18/20

1996 Château d'Yquem: It was a luscious wine with a creamy texture, bolstered by bright acidity. The bouquet had dried apricots, honey and toffee apple. It was not the richest or most complex of vintages but it was elegantly presented in a nice refreshing style.  17/20


Château-Chalon:
Château-Chalon is an appellation for wines made around the village of  Château-Chalon in the Jura region.  Only wines based on 100% Savagnin in the Vin Jaune style can be made using this appellation.  The grapes are late harvested, without botrytis.  After vinification, the wine is aged for 6 years and 3 months before bottling in the squat-shaped 62cl clavelins.  The wine must be stored in oak casks, partially filled, to allow the development of the voile of yeast, which gives the wine its peculiar characteristics, just like the function of flor in the production of sherry.  Only made in the best vintages.

Arbois-Pupillin is an appellation for wines made in the village of Pupillin, just south of Arbois in the Jura region.  This appellation covers white, red, rosé wines and Vin Jaune, as well as vin de paille.

1989 Emmanuel Houillon-Pierre Overnoy, Arbois-Pupillin AOC, Vin Jaune, Jura: My first experience of this wine by the legendary Pierre Overnoy.  It was in the year 1989 when he delegated the winemaking duties to Emmanuel Houillon.  This was a deep amber colour, showing notes of white chocolate, nuts and balsamic, with a prominent saline character. VA is marked here but it is an additional positive to the appreciation of the wine. Finishes extremely long. 19/20

2005 Domaine Jean Macle, Château-Chalon AOC, Vin Jaune, Jura: This was a golden colour. Marked notes of saline, sea salt, yeast with nuances like curry/cardamom. Excellent with the aged Comté cheese. Long finish. 18/20


Towards the end of the evening, our host asked all of us to think of our own choices of top five white wines, from anywhere in the world. It was interesting how we all gravitated towards France. While Montrachet, Château d'Yquem and Pierre Overnoy's Vin Jaune would still feature for some of us, there were suggestions of Haut Brion Blanc, Raveneau Chablis Les Clos or Chablis Montée de Tonnerre, Krug Clos du Mesnil, Trimbach Clos Sainte Hune, Egon Müller Scharzhofberger Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese, and an ageless Madeira Malvasia or Bual.  The question remains unanswered is when we get together to do the 'new' classification tasting?!

A spot of white in Chianti - a horizontal tasting of two vintages of white Burgundy (2008 and 2011)

13 Sep 2018: James and Ellen, our friends and hosts at Panzano, very generously opened their cellars and organised a special tasting of white Burgundy wines for the producers of Panzano and us! It was a tasting of two vintages: 2008 and 2011. To accompany the fine wines, they had organised some nibbles catered by Enoteca Baldi (a very good address in town for the best spaghetti with tomato and basil!)

Yinghsien Tan MW ensuring all in order! Giampaolo Motta tempted by the snacks.

Ellen talking to Josephin and Jarkko of Candialle at the back of the room

Under the supervision of "resident" MW, Yinghsien Tan, the wines were organised into four pairs. Despite a difficult growing season, the 2008 whites were to a large extent saved by the drying northerly winds from mid September that produced ripe fruit with minerality and freshness to accompany for the early pickers and opulently rich fruit for the later harvesters.   2011 is generally regarded as an early-drinking vintage with the whites delivering balance and aromatic charm.  As usual, the date of picking was critical for both vintages.

From my conversations around the room, the producers seemed happy to be part of this unusual tasting in Chianti. I spoke to many about the potential for white grape planting in Panzano. Many told me that they did not have the right terroir for white grapes. Some of the producers make a rosé wine to compensate for the lack of white wine. However, there are notable exceptions. For example, we tasted the complex white blend from Castello dei Rampolla, which is an unusual mix of Trebbiano, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Traminer. Imagine pairing with a lovely goat cheese! There is also the Sauvignon Blanc wine from Fontodi, Meriggio, an IGT Colli Toscana Centrale. Giampaolo Motta of La Massa also revealed that he had plans for Chenin Blanc on some of his schist soils. With different exposures, soils and canopy management, it is not inconceivable that the potential for whites can be further explored.

On the terrace, James, Ellen and their guests enjoying our favourite glass (instead of spitting!)

Richard and Johnny Goedhuis 

Laura Goedhuis in deep converation with Giovanni Manetti of Fontodi

Here are my brief tasting notes from the white Burgundy tasting:

First Pair:



2011 Jean-Paul & Benoît Droin, Chablis Montée de Tonnerre

Fleshy but vibrant with a tight mineral core and expressive salinity. The wine still needs some time for the discreet wood to integrate and for the wine to develop further its complexity.  However, the harmony, subtle power and persistence today are already very promising.  To enjoy now and over next 6-8 years.  17.5/20


2011 Billaud-Simon, Chablis Montée de Tonnerre
A very different expression from the Droin version. The focus here is on freshness, purity, and bright green fruit accompanied by floral notes. The delicate balance is achieved with a mineral core throughout the palate. A very classy Chablis Premier Cru.  Already very approachable. To be enjoyed over next 4-5 years. 17.5/20







Second Pair:




2011 J.M. Boillot, Puligny-Montrachet La Garenne
Clean and harmonious. A linear structure. Focus on vibrancy and minerality and less on an overt fruit character.  There was still a hint of reductive character from the bottle I tried. Loved the persistent saline finish, but it could be a little austere for some!16.5/20


2011 Etienne Sauzet, Puligny-Montrachet Champ Gain
A much more aromatically opulent bouquet with ripe yellow fruit, pear, toast and nutty notes. The expression is rich, with a creamy palate and rounded mouthfeel, while retaining sufficient freshness to balance the ripe fruit. A well-measured saline finish. Finishes long. 17/20








Third Pair:



2008 Billaud-Simon, Chablis Montée de Tonnerre
A well-matured Chablis, with a firm structure. Developed bouquet of honey, nougat and stewed pear. Some of us found it very attractive. I thought it would be great with an aged Parmesan. (I suspect there would be some bottle variation amongst the case for this wine.) 16/20


2008 Lucien Le Moine, Chassagne-Montrachet Caillerets
Ambitious winemaking is very evident here.  Opulent bouquet of vanilla, toast, honey and peach. There was still a hint of reductive character. Muscular and rich with a fleshy texture. The presence of crisp acidity kept the wine well balanced, leaving with a persistent finish. 17/20






Fourth Pair:



2008 J.M. Boillot, Puligny-Montrachet Champ Canet
Linear and mineral. A wine of tension and depth showing precise winemaking and well-crafted balance and elegance. A glorious expression of this climat from Puligny. Still very youthful depending on the bottle. Sadly there was much bottle variation amongst the three bottles.  18/20


2008 Lucien Le Moine, Corton Blanc
Very fine and mineral. Linear. Vibrant. Gained complexity and weight in glass to open. Saline finish. Long. Further cellaring time would probably reward a greater appreciation of its full potential. At this moment, I felt that the winemaker's presence rather overwhelmed the appellation's expression. To be approached in the next 3-4 years. 17.5/20





As if we were not enough spoilt by such wonderful spread of fine wines, our hosts dazzled us at dinner with two red Burgundies that went down like a treat: 2002 Clos des Lambrays and 2001 Clos de La Roche, Dujac, the latter in magnum. This was followed by a 1834 Malvasia Madeira by Barbeito, which was extremely vibrant without the weighty richness of Malvasia.  Could there be a more special way to end a very fine day?!

2002 Chambertins

1 Sep 2018:

The dinner described earlier also consisted of a pair of magnums of red Bourgogne wines:
2002 Chambertin, Trapet versus 2002 Chambertin Clos de Bèze, Bruno Clair


2002 Chambertin Clos de Bèze, Bruno Clair
Medium garnet. Mushroom, forest floor, violet, dried blossoms, dried raspberry. Balanced. Silky texture, suave, elegant, with forest floor note on finish. Drinking very well now and over next 5-6 years. 17.5/20


2002 Chambertin, Trapet
Less evolved on nose. Forest berries, sous bois, firmly structured with velvety texture and bold tannins that have mellowed. Lovely acidity, very youthful still. Ready to drink now, but will further develop over next 8-10 years. 18/20


2010 Puligny Montrachet Clos de La Mouchère, Henri Boillot

Pale lemon. Citrus, pear, nutty, smokey notes. Bright acidity, fresh and long finish. A very classy wine. (Note that not every bottle in this case was like this.) 17.5/20

I did not taste the other bottles in this photo - so no notes from me on them!!

A mini vertical of Rousseau Chambertin across 4 decades

19 Jul 2018:
On a torrential rainy evening in Hong Kong, we organised a mini vertical tasting of Rousseau Chambertin.

The line-up

 ​
1981 Krug
Amber/gold robe, with nuances of butterscotch, gingerbread, cinnamon, pear, apple compote and nougat. Delicate mousse and lively acidity greeted the palate, with the flavours unfolding and culminating in a long candied apple finish. 18/20 (Thank you, John!)

1995 Bonneau du Martray Corton Charlemagne
A pale gold colour. Almond, marzipan, with some bruised apple notes. Although showing oxidative notes, I did not find them unpleasant at all. The structure of the wine was still intact. I kept some back for the cheese course, it was actually not a bad complement at all. 16/20

2005 Rousseau Chambertin
Notes of plum, prune, nutmeg, sous bois and coffee. The vibrant acidity balanced the fleshy and succulent texture of the ripe tannins and the structure was impeccable. Great concentratation. It was an outstanding wine, powerful, structured, and a veritable benchmark for Chambertin. 20/20

1989 Rousseau Chambertin
The bouquet showed dried shiitake, wet leaves, forest floor, prune and leather. The silky texture was nicely balanced with fresh acidity. Finish was long if slightly drying. 19/20

1978 Rousseau Chambertin
Some VA had begun to creep into this delicate wine. An aromatic mature bouquet, if slightly marred by the acetaldehydes. The palate had a nice lift for the same reason, but for me, this bottle was past its peak. 16.5/20

1964 Rousseau Chambertin
Beautiful aromatics, with layers of leather, cardamom, cinnamon, truffle, earth and coffee. Harmonious, with a silky texture and bright acidity and a persistent finish that was almost mesmerising. A truly seductive wine. 20/20

The levels of the bottles

I took votes of everyone's best and second best wines of the evening. The 1964 had everyone's unanimous vote as best wine of the evening, followed by the 2005 as the second best for most, and a couple of us had the 1989 as their second best.

The staff at the Long Room of the Hong Kong Cricket Club did an amazing job with the wine and food service. Look forward to returning for another dinner.

Chinese New Year Wines with a special focus on 2002 and 1997 vintages

Over Chinese New Year, we did a bit of damage to the cellar and it turned out to be a very rewarding experience to revisit the 1997 and 2002 vintages of some top Bourgogne reds!

Before then, let's take a look at some 2002 champagne:

2002 Gimonnet Special Club
Nose of apple compote, brioche, toasted hazelnut, butter shortbread, with blond cocoa notes. Creamy mousse, enriched with layers of flavours and caressing texture on the palate. Deftly balanced with crisp acidity, altogether culminating in a wine of supreme elegance. Finish is clean, crisp and lingers with the purity of Chardonnay. A very refined champagne, drinking at its peak now, but in no way showing signs of decline. Expect to hold for another 6 to 8 years. 18/20
(This sadly was our last bottle, which Richard salvaged for me to try! So pleased I got to try it.  It was truly remarkable!)

2002 Salon
Sublime nose of pure Chardonnay, with green apple, buttered toast, minerality notes.  Creamy mousse but somehow the bubbles did not quite dance persistently on the palate.  It felt a little flat.  Saline and slightly austere finish, and long.  Need to try another bottle to see if it was a one-off. 17/20

Then onto the 2002 vintage of Bourgogne reds:

2002 Robert Chevillon, Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Saints Georges
The intense bouquet reveals notes of ripe blackberries, sweet spices, underlaid with notes of minerality and earthy character. Voluptuous with a velvety textured body, yet the ripe tannin structure belies a muscular and firm structure, lifted by vibrant acidity. Bold and virile, a wine best paired with a Cote de Boeuf or a roast lamb dish. (It went beautifully with our faux filet de Limousin.) Finishes very long, lingering with a ripe fruity quality that has a beguiling sweet note. Ready to enjoy now, but one could wait 3 - 4 years for more complex tertiary character to develop in the wine. 17.5/20

2002 de Montille, Pommard Les Rugiens
The nose redolent of truffle, strawberry, Asian spice, balsamic, wild herbs, dried violet, overlaid with a sauvage character. Silky texture, bright acidity. A very fine drop, slightly dry finish but long. 17/20


And the best surprise of all, some excellent 1997 Bourgogne reds:

1997 Claude Dugat, Griotte-Chambertin
Sous bois, mushroom, cardamom, cloves, with prune and leather notes complete the beguiling bouquet. A wine still exuding energy and depth of character. Lively acidity (lifted with some VA), wrapped in silky texture, belies this wine's maturity. A very fine example of this vintage. Drinking perfectly now, at peak. While there are no signs of deterioration from this bottle, it would be a shame not to enjoy this at its peak. 17.5/20

1997 Dujac, Clos St Denis
The tertiary character now dominated by vegetal and sappy notes. The silky texture and elegant structure still lifted by lively acidity.  It was a brilliant display of sophistication and finesse so well defined by a wine of 20 years.  17/20

1997 Denis Mortet, Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux St Jacques

Intense bouquet of prune, leather and mushroom. The texture was velvety, wrapping with it such balanced and lively acidity, underscoring the subtle power and firm structure of this wine.  A wine showing so well that we all felt that it was a fine example of wine punching above its weight. Finished very long, with just a sense of dryness on the finish.  18/20

And finally, a white Bourgogne from the 2004 vintage:

2004 Raveneau, Chablis Montée de Tonnerre
Minerality, green fruit, spicy, smoky notes define the nose. Lively but measured acidity threads through the medium-bodied palate, underscoring the freshness and vibrancy of this super Premier Cru climat, with the characteristic flinty, saline and lingering finish. A wine at its prime. We tested it in two different glasses. The liveliness seemed better preserved when served in the smaller tasting glass, than in the bigger Zalto universal glass. Perfect now. 16.5/20

I cannot wait to try more 1997 Bourgogne reds!  They seem to be at such a great place now......so far from the bottles we tried!