Under-rated Ageing Potential of South African Iconic Reds

One of the more interesting wine tastings during the South African Wine Festival 2016 was a tasting of 5 back vintages from the library stock of 4 iconic wineries, hosted by Hong Kong’s wine merchant Northeast Wines. 

The first vintage (1995) of Hartenberg Wine Estate Gravel Hill Shiraz, under current winemaker Carl Schultz, had been produced exclusively for the 1997 Cape Winemakers Guild auction and this marked the first of 14 vintages sold at the CWG auction.  The quality of the low-yielding (about 3 tons/ha) single vineyard Shiraz is largely due to its unique soil composition. The thin topsoil (30-50 cm gravel) overlies the subsoil of metres deep of clay performing the function of water regulation.  The winter rain filtering through the gravel is trapped in the fissures in the subsoil, forming the water reserve to feed the growing season.  As the summer heat subsides and rain arrives, the clay swells to prune the roots, limiting vigour of the vines during the ripening period.  The wine spends about 7 – 8 years at the winery before release.  The vertical tasting showcased the 5 vintages from 2005 to 2009, its most recent release.  Retail price of the 2008 vintage is HK$ 575 (or US$ 74).  The family-owned Hartenberg Wine Estate was established in 1692.  Its vineyards on the slopes of Bottelary Hills bordering Stellenbosch are renowned for high quality Shiraz. (see: www.hartenbergestate.com)

Kanonkop Estate has long been known as the First Growth of South African wines. With vineyards on the lower slopes of the Simonsberg Mountain in Stellenbosch, Kanonkop is a fourth generation family estate.  The estate was originally purchased by JW Sauer, a cabinet member in the parliament of the Union of South Africa.  Here 5 vintages of the Cabernet Sauvignon-dominant Bordeaux blend Paul Sauer, including the award-winning 2009 vintage, was showcased at this special tasting. Retail price for the 2011 vintage is HK$ 321 (or US$ 41).  (See: www.kanonkop.co.za)

Hannes Myburg, 8^th generation owner of Meerlust Estate, presided over the pouring of Meerlust Rubicon wines, spanning the vintages 1998, 2001, 2005, 2009 ad 2012.  Meerlust was established in 1756.   The first vintage of Meerlust Rubicon was 1980. Hallmarks of Rubicon are intensity, harmony, vibrancy and complexity. The complexity is further enhanced with 1% addition of Petit Verdot from the 2009 vintage.  The wines are released after 4 years in the winery and the magnums are released after 10 years.  Not every vintage would produce a Rubicon.  The last 40 years saw gaps in 1985, 1990, 2002 and 2011, according to Myburg. The 2012 vintage retails at HK$ 294 (or US$ 38). (See: www.meerlust.co.za)

Traditional basket presses are used to craft this elegant Syrah, with grapes from 3 parcels in Stellenbosch.  Low yields, carefully selected fruit and gentle extraction give rise to this special cru from one of Stellenbosch’s oldest winery.  Originally known as ‘Bellinchamp’ (pretty fields), the Bellingham story began in 1693 when Hollander Gerrit Janz van Vuuren and his French Huguenot wife planted the first 1000 vines on the estate. When Bernard and Fredagh Podlashuk (“Pod”) purchased the derelict farm in 1943 and set about to restore it, thus began the modern renaissance of the Bellingham Estate in Franschhoek.  “Pod” was a pioneer and Bellingham was the first to release a single varietal Shiraz in 1956.   The 5 vintages of Bellingham Bernard Series Basket Press Syrah showcased were 2007, 2009, 2010, 2011 and 2012.  (See: www.bellinghamwines.com)

South African native and long-time HK resident, Greg De’eb, who also heads fine wine storage facility Crown Wine Cellars, believes that beautifully aged South African Bordeaux blends, Syrah and Pinotage are where Napa Cabernets were 20 years ago.  They were under-appreciated (and under-priced at the time) but possessed the ability to age gracefully and effortlessly, that only took decades to reveal.  De’eb was referring to the mature Napa reds from 60s, 70s and 80s that he was able to buy at sensible prices before the prices sky-rocketed.  De’eb particularly treasures his collection of South African reds, “The Cabs and Bordeaux blends are particular cause for celebration because of their distinctly old world/French character which means with age comes the very best of mature claret.” At a recent dinner at a private home in Hong Kong, De’eb’s host produced a magnum of 1986 Kanonkop Cabernet.  Not one of the connoisseurs present spotted its South African origin, most thought it could only be a first or second growth Bordeaux.

Based on the online retail prices for the wines showcased, one might do well by following the wisdom in De’eb’s advice.

Sarah Wong, wine columnist for local newspaper, SCMP, believes that the ageing potential of the wines is under-rated.  Wong says, “All the wines shown seem so youthful still, that they seem to have years, if not decades, ahead.”

While the 1998 Rubicon has now reached the plateau of its drinking window, Myburg says, “The ageing profile of South African wines is like the country’s famous Table Mountain!” He expects the 1998 Rubicon will stay in this plateau phase for a very long time.

Vintage South African Wine Tasting

24 August 2015: Greg De’eb of Crown Wine Cellars is known for his knowledge and collection of mature South African wines and has often surprised dinner guests with bottles from his collection in blind tasting. Yet this HK Wine Society Vintage South African dinner was the first time he had organised a blind tasting of so many bottles from his personal collection, including a number that came from the famous Cape Winemakers Guild auction. We could call this a prelude to the two tastings at Crown Wine Cellars in September (8th and 15th) that would showcase samples from the upcoming auction on 3 October.


This year will be the 31st Nedbank Cape Winemakers Guild Auction which started in 1985, and will see 55 exceptionally crafted wines go under the hammer in Stellenbosch. Over the years, this Auction has enthralled private collectors, wine enthusiasts and on-trade representatives with limited volumes of wines of benchmarking excellence, individual character and enduring worth, made exclusively for the auction by members of the Guild. Excitement for the 2015 auction is particularly hyped for its lower quantity, with 258 fewer cases than last year’s auction. The 55 wines comprise 34 reds, 17 whites, 3 MCCs (Méthode Cap Classique) and a straw wine, making a total of 2,575 cases (each case being 6 x 750 ml). The pursuit of excellence amongst Guild members has led to the showcasing of the first ever Barbera making auction debut and a Cape Portuguese blend, being the first Calitzdorp-style red blend with 3 classic Port varieties with Shiraz.

The blind tasting at Crown Wine Cellars

On this evening, however, we tasted 12 reds, all from Stellenbosch, with ages varying between 14 and 18 years. In keeping with the HK Wine Society tradition, we all wrote brief notes and scored the wines, before ranking them in order of 1 to 12, with 1 being the top wine and 12 the least favourite. Everyone’s ratings were tallied and the wine with the highest number would be the least favourite wine and the wine with the lowest aggregated number would be the group’s top wine.

The flight of 12 , blind tasted

The group’s results were as follows (starting with 1st place):

1. 2001 Vergelegen Flagship

2. 1997 CWG L’Avenir Estate Pinotage Reserve

3. 1999 CWG Thelema Cabernet

4. 1999 Vergelegen Flagship (Cabernet/Merlot) – nicknamed Haut Brion bacon by the Society’s President Vernon Moore, as members alluded to its claret-like pencil shavings and cigar smoke nuances, as well as a distinct savoury, bacon note.

5. 1998 Vergelegen Cabernet Sauvignon

6. 2000 Vergelegen Flagship

7. 1997 CWG Zevenwacht Shiraz Reserve

7. 1999 CWG L’Avenir Estate Cabernet Sauvignon

9. 1999 CWG Grangehurst Cabernet Sauvignon

10. 1997 CWG Morgenhof Auction Reserve

11. 1998 Graham Beck Cabernet Sauvignon Barrel Select

12. 1998 L’Avenir Cabernet Sauvignon

As Greg summarised it in his opening remark before dinner started, this tasting certainly proved that South African wines with their Old World heritage could shine if only we consumers could have the patience to cellar them and enjoy them with maturity so that their full potential could be revealed and admired. He had prepared another set of exciting wines for us to experience at dinner. Guy Llewellyn, Club Manager and also Executive Chef of Crown Wine Cellars, had gone to great lengths to replicate some of South Africa’s signature dishes, including Cape Malay Bobotie, served with avocado, biltong and thyme vinaigrette, with its Indonesian heritage flavours, grilled traditional Boerewors (farmer’s sausage), served with tomato chutney and Fillet Meintjieskop (tender ostrich fillet infused with lychee sauce), following the recipe of the namesake dish served at the Restaurant Meintjieskop near the Union Building in Pretoria.

Fillet Meintjieskop

The delicious 2002 CWG Hartenberg Gravel Hill Shiraz (right)

Some highlights served at dinner included a 1989 Pinot Noir Champagne by JC Le Roux (the Champagne name was still widely used in South Africa then!), showing ginger, nutty and toasted brioche notes, and harmonious balance, 2009 CWG Gary Jordan Chardonnay (judiciously oaked with an elegant poise, bright acidity, that can rival a fine Bourgogne), 2002 CWG Hartenberg Gravel Hill Shiraz (such elegance, bright acidity and spicy character), 2001 Meerlust Rubicon (rich, mouthcoating ripe chewy tannins) and a 1995 Kanonkop Pinotage served from magnum (showing such balance and character that received the majority vote over Kanonkop’s 1993 Paul Sauer Bordeaux Blend!). The 1998 CWG Overgaauw Reserve was also well received in the fortified category!

The fortifieds

With such gracefully matured wines as testimony to the ageing potential and quality of CWG wines, we could expect a very exciting line-up for the 2015 auction. The pre-auction tastings at Crown Wine Cellars should not be missed, and more importantly the CWG Auction on 3 October! Greg has been running the pre-auction tasting since 1997, evidence of how popular the auction has become amongst HK collectors and wine aficionados. Take a peek at the 2015 auction wines at: 

www.capewinemakersguild.com

BYO dinner at Le Mieux Bistro (or Le Meilleur Bistro?) with a 1979 magnum of Angerville Volnay Clos des Ducs

Spa egg on toast with
chanterelle mushrooms and foie gras cubes

5 August 2011: We had a BYO dinner at Le Mieux Bistro.  As usual, Chef Ricky did a wonderful job with the food.  I was particularly impresssed by the 'spa' egg cooked at 65 degrees, over 45 minutes.....I was told that the hen has been raised in a classical musical environment!  I am sure it added to the delicacy of the dish - the runny yolk soaking into the pan-fried toast, with cubes of foie gras and chaterelle mushrooms adding to the texture and richness of flavours of the dish.  A definite stand-out!  The turbot was also delicately cooked, extremely soft and moist, topped with crispy skin (only criticism: the fish was slightly watery - wasn't sure whether it was because it was previously frozen or the water came from the cooking method).  The porcini risotto was impeccable, made with intensely flavoured stock.  The main course was slightly disappointing, rather ordinary, after all these wonderful small dishes.  Perhaps the chef could consider a menu composed of small dishes!  The dessert platter was interesting but not exciting!  I prefer a dessert platter with flavours and textures that complement each other based on a common theme to give it a sophisticated presentation and an interesting crescendo in flavour intensity/texture (instead of being presented as a helping from the dessert buffet -albeit a tasty one)......I could not quite find the connection amongst the pineapple jelly, baked cheese cake and truffle-flavoured ice cream that appeared on our platter.  Only a minor comment that could be reasonably ignored, as I took little time to hoover up the sweet delights on my plate!



Porcini risotto

 As usual, we had a very interesting selection of wines.  We started with a 2004 Gimonnet Oenophile, an extra brut blanc de blancs which was linear and mineral, and rich and complex with acacia, ripe pear and toasty character at the same time, bolstered by very racy acidity.  Very refreshing! I would recommend this wine with oysters or sea urchin sushi. 17/20

This was followed by a 2006 Serruria Chardonnay from Rupert Wines, Franschhoek Valley.  This bottle seemed to have gone through accelerated maturation, showing slightly carmelised and butterscotch nuances, enriching the honey, nutty, fig, brioche and smokey bouquet. A rich style wine, but well-balanced and an excellent complement to the egg dish! 

Richard and I had brought a magnum of 1979 Marquis d'Angerville Volnay Clos des Ducs and we were very eager to see how it showed, especially as Allen Meadows had recommended a drinking window to 2004 when he last tasted this wine in 2001 (although he probably had a 750ml bottle).  The wine took little time to adjust to the wine glass environment and immediately captivated my imagination.  A seductive perfume rose out of the glass - strawberrries, raspberries and rose petal, nicely interlayered with smoke, coffee and caramel.  On the palate, the wine showed a very elegant structure and a silky texture, no signs of fatigue or any elements out of place.  A very regal expression of the finesse, purity and elegance of Volnay.  Drinking perfectly now and should drink well for the next 2- 3 years, but I would not recommend further cellaring for this wine.  17/20   

Unfortunately, the 2002 Dujac Gevrey Chambertin Aux Combottes was corked....this provoked a few of us to start twirling with vigour bits of polystyrene in the wine glass - apparently a trick to take away some of the cork taint....perhaps this trick did something to the nose, but did it also take away or add something else to the palate??

We also compared 2003 and 2004 Quinault l'Enclos, a rather well-priced (value for quality) Saint Emilion Grand Cru Classe.  I rather preferred the 2003, which showed rather well with the ripe tannin, a well-knit structure and concentration of flavours of blackberry preserve, tobacco and chocolate, with a hint of violet and cedar.  The 2004 appeared less generous, showing less ripe fruit and less structure. 

The 1991 Lindemans St George sadly suffered from quite a bit of volatility.

The 2005 Torbreck Runrig, Barossa Valley, South Australia, was a very appropriate match for the lamb dish, which came with a richly flavoured sauce. 96.5% Shiraz and 3.5% Viognier.  Individually fermented parcels, each matured for 30 months in new and seasoned oak, with minimal racking, before assemblage and addition of the Viognier component.  Extremely concentrated and intense in aromas of black cherry, crushed blackberries, cassis, liquorice, black pepper, mineral and smoke, lifted by a heady floral note.  Full-bodied, intensely flavoured, showing plenty of complexity and flavour concentration on the palate. Well-balanced, richly aromatic, powerful and concentrated, velvety texture, enhanced with lively acidity.  Nice long finish with a kick of fruit sweetness at the end. 

We then made a last minute decision to open the 2005 The Stork Shiraz by Hartenberg, Stellenbosch, South Africa (a wine that has been lauded with numerous accolades).  As it was a last minute decision, we had it double-decanted.  100% Shiraz.  26 months in new French oak.  A very rich wine in body, structure and flavours, showing very ripe fruit of black cherries and lots of warm spices. A limited production wine, from the ripest grapes, grown in clay-rich terra rosa soil, and helped by low temperatures and steep slopes.  Very promising! 

Both Shirazes were easily enjoyed now but would definitely benefit from further development in bottle.

Thank you everyone for sharing all these interesting wines!  I am now looking forward to our mooncake and wine matching gathering in September! 

2007 Oreno and 2005 L'Ormarins Optima

13 Dec 2010:  Our "not so regular anymore" wine tasting group finally got together again for dinner before the year end.  We went to Gong Guan, a modern Shanghainese private kitchen. The restaurant has 3 private rooms (cleverly partitioned by satin curtains) and minimum booking for each room is 8 people (we just about made this minimum number after a few last minute dropping out!).  The restaurant offers consistent quality food at very reasonable prices, albeit based on a fixed menu.  The only disadvantage is the lack of wine-serving ware - decanters are actually water jugs and glasses are a little limited.   So best to come as couples, so you can optimise the use of available glasses to try a few wines at the same time!  On this evening, the spare ribs and the chicken were the best dishes....and we even sent Pui Hong and Anita to go and get ice cream as the Chinese dessert soup was a little too herbal and medicinal to go with the Tokaji Aszu 6 Puttonyos!  (Next time I know better to check with the restaurant what desset they're serving so we can be better prepared!)

I was a little disappointed by some of the wines of the evening but the two wines that I found interesting and delicious were: 2007 Tenuta Sette Ponti Oreno and 2005 L'Ormarins Optima.