Feasting on Italian Wines and Cheeses

2 January 2019:

Happy New Year!

Continuing with my recent love affair with Italian wines, I decided to dedicate a drinks party to Italian wines. So why not New Year’s Eve?! And to pair with the wines, I had ordered some fine Italian cheeses and cold cuts, including the very addictive truffle ham! More on the cheeses as you scroll down.

I tried to cover Italy from north to south as much as possible. The verdict is clear that Italy is a great producer of fine wines, with a tremendous diversity in styles that could suit different palates, thanks to the number of indigenous varieties, the range of soils and climates and local customs. I firmly believe the local food has a lot to do with the local wine styles.

Amongst the whites, the Timorasso Derthona by Massa probably won the all-round applause from the tasters, delivering a point of difference in terms of flavours and texture. A beautiful food wine showing honey and almond notes at this age and a smooth texture. Suavia's Monte Carbonare was an interesting showing of Garganega, with just a hint of residual off-dryness at the finish. All classic wine drinkers gravitated towards Frescobaldi's Pomino Benefizio in the familiar Chardonnay territory. The Argiolas Vermentino di Sardegna showed lovely herbal notes but the alcohol was a little on the high side.

 

As for the reds, all the 1997 bottles delivered great finesse, especially Robeto Voerzio's Barolo Brunate, the Tignanello (in magnum) showed class and harmony and the velvety texture of the Pelago (also in magnum) belies a surge of vivacity and strength that could see the wine through another decade or more. The San Leonardo was my quiet ‘Italian’ – it gathered expressiveness with time and could easily be my favourite wine of the evening. The Quintarelli Valpolicella was a quirky one to like but still found a number of admirers. The Poggio Antico Brunello Altera was a firm favourite amongst those seeking power, strength and vivacity. It was luscious and beautifully balanced at the same time. The Graci Etna Rosso was no shrinking violet and impressed all by its freshness and purity of 100% Nerello Mascalese and lack of oak treatment. The Taurasi by Terredora di Paolo was beautifully made and drinking perfectly at this age, still showing some violet character, but with some tertiary characters kicking in. (Full wine list at end of blog)

 

Now coming onto the cheeses, they were all amazing! Let’s start with the ones we might know a bit better.

 

From bottom left: Taleggio DOP, Beppino Occelli Cusie al Malto d'Orzo e Whisky, Castelmagno DOP Stagionato 3 mesi, Pecorino Riserva del Fondatore, Il Fiorino, Parmigiano Reggiano DOP 36 mesi, Gorgonzola Dolce DOP al Cucchiaio.

Taleggio DOP: This is a raw cow milk cheese produced on the mountains of Val Taleggio, Lombardia. The fresh cheese is washed to give the cheese its characteristic orange rind (with an ivory springy paste) and sweet pungent aromas. It is made with unpasteurised milk, giving the cheese a high level of flavour complexity. The pungency is more pronounced on the nose than on the palate. The creamy texture suggests a buttery sweetness in the flavours, with a tanginess and floral character. It is a gorgeous cheese to be eaten on its own, paired with Timorasso, a Nebbiolo d’Alba or a 1997 Barolo Brunate!, or melted in cooking.

The Gorgonzola Dolce DOP al Cucchiaio was absolutely heavenly. This cow milk blue cheese from Lombardia/Piemonte was rich and luxuriant. Once settled into room temperature, the creamy texture with just the delicate blue mould character simply blended into one buttery herbal dollop coating the palate with its deliciousness. I did not try this with any wine, but I could imagine a dessert wine or a Demi-Sec Champagne if you can get hold of one!

Known as the King of Piemonte cheeses, Castelmagno DOP is a cheese with a long history and a monastic origin owing the name to San Magno. Records from 1277 showed that rental of pastureland was settled with wheels of Castelmagno. In the 18th Century, it was regularly served in famous restaurants in Paris and London. Typically made with cow’s milk, but sometimes can have goat or sheep milk added. This farmstead version has been aged for 3 months (Stagionato 3 mesi) and it shows a grey rind, with an ivory coloured paste that is firm and crumbly, with herbal, floral and mineral notes. There is a long aftertaste that reminds one of a damp cellar. I paired this with the Barolo and it was marriage made in heaven.

Even more impressive was the Pecorino Riserva del Fondatore by Caseificio Il Fiorino. This award-winning Tuscan Pecorino was simply divine. It had strong and intense flavours of pineapple, grassy and herbal notes, with a persistent finish. This is a very balanced cheese, with a velvety richness that just made it so much more special. I thought the Brunello was superb with this!

The Parmigiano Reggiano DOP Stravecchio (36 months) was divinely paired with the vintage champagne. It tasted better with the 2007 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne than the drier, more mineral and chalky 2002 Jacquesson Dizy-Corne Bautray (in magnum). This cheese from Emilia-Romagna needs no introduction. This version from Agricola Giansanti di Muzio was exceptional, so packed with flavours, velvety smooth and yet nutty and spicy and the saltiness was so well integrated.

The pièce de résistance was the Beppino Occelli Cusie al Malto d’Orzo e Whisky. This nutty and piquant cheese had this most interesting appearance of a barley studded rind, and a firm but easily crumbled paste, the colour of milk coffee. Cusie is a Piemontese expression for “that which there is”. So the Cusie is usually made with whatever milk available at the time of production. However, typically it would start with milk from Alpine cows, mixed with either goat or sheep milk. This version was coated in whisky-soaked barley and aged for around 18-24 months, giving the cheese a smokey and sweet fermented taste infused with malt whisky flavours, such as fermented grains, caramel, dried fruit and marmalade. The aftertaste is distinctly spicy with a good lift of acidity. This is a gourmet cheese. I did not think it would do it justice to pair with wine. Rather a single malt with age?

This is a very exciting journey discovering Italian wines and cheeses. So glad to be on board! Salute!

Here are the wines that featured on this Italian evening:

The White Wines

Timorasso 'Derthona', Colli Tortonesi DOC, Vigneti Massa, 2014

(Timorasso, Piemonte)

Monte Carbonare, Soave Classico DOC, Suavia, 2015

(Garganega, Veneto)

Pomino Benefizio DOC, Castello di Pomino, Frescobaldi, 2014

(Chardonnay, Toscana)

IS Argiolas, Vermentino di Sardegna DOC, Argiolas, 2017

(Vermentino, Sardegna)



The Red Wines

Barolo DOCG Brunate, La Morra, Roberto Voerzio, 1997

(Nebbiolo, Piemonte)

San Leonardo, Vigneti delle Dolomiti IGT, Tenuta San Leonardo, 2004

(Approx Cabernet Sauvignon(60%)-Carmenère(30%)-Merlot(10%), Trentino)

Valpolicella Classico Superiore DOC, Quintarelli, 2003

(Corvina-Rondinella-Molinara-Others, Veneto)

Tignanello, Toscana IGT, 1997 (magnum)

(Sangiovese(85%)-Cabernet Sauvignon(10%)-Cabernet Franc(5%), Toscana)

Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, Altero, Poggio Antico, 2007

(Sangiovese, Toscana)

Pelago, Marche Rosso IGT, Umani Ronchi, 1997 (magnum)

(Montepulciano (50%)-Cabernet Sauvignon(40%)-Merlot(10%), Marche)

Taurasi DOCG, Terredora di Paolo, 2007

(Aglianico, Campania)

Etna Rosso DOC, Graci, 2016

(Nerello Mascalese, Sicilia)

1997 Barolos

19 October 2018: To prepare for our upcoming trip to Piemonte, we decided to serve a few Barolos to get into the spirit of Piemonte!

1997 Barolo Brunate, Roberto VoerzioThis La Morra-based Barolo delivered a true to form elegance and delicate structure. The bouquet was black plum, blackberries, dried rose petals with some mature balsamic notes. The silky tannins were well-integrated and the wine delivered a sense of harmony and serenity. It's in a beautiful place to be enjoyed now. Drink now and over 3-4 years. 17/20

1997 Barolo Cannubi Boschis, Luciano SandroneHere there was much more riper and sweeter fruit. The core of the bouquet was baked plum, redcurrant, with a noticeable note of tar and mocha. This was a more flamboyant expression than the Voerzio Brunate,with more flesh, more textural fabric and more concentration, but somewhat lacking in finesse. This wine appealed to palates seeking a hedonistic experience. Drink now and over 4-5 years. 17/20

1997 Barolo Rocche dell'Annunziata Riserva, Paolo ScavinoThis wine showed an immense depth and a stylish mineral core which was very different from the other two Barolo expressions. There was a core of vibrancy complementing the elegant red fruit and spice notes. A very stylish wine that is drinking very beautifully now. Drink now and over 3-4 years. 17.5/20


Our fourth bottle to join the ranks was:

1998 Barolo Bric del Fiasc, Paolo ScavinoThis revealed a wine with intense ripe black fruit and velvety tannin structure. Notes of tar and liquorice abound. There was a firm structure from this Castiglione Falletto cru. While it was fleshy and opulent, and very enjoyable, it did not deliver the same class as the 1997 Rocche dell'Annunziata Riserva. Drink now and over 4-5 years. 16.5/20

And staying true to the region, we began with a delicious bottle of 2014 Timorasso, Derthona, Vigneti Massa.  

Falling in love with Barolos again....the ripe and warm 1997 vintage

20 Oct 2012: Bocca di Lupo (www.boccadilupo.com) - I had been meaning to try this much-acclaimed restaurant in London for its array of simple honest Italian regional cuisine with a few innovative touches (and manageable portions) but it was only when the chef Jacob Kennedy came to HK that I had the opportunity to try some of his dishes.   At Domani, he prepared a 4-course meal of:

Battuto  veal tartare with white truffle from Alba
Orecchiette with 'nduja, tomato, red onion and cream
Roast suckling pig with white wine, chestnuts and grapes, boiled vegetables with olive oil
Dessert platter with bonet (a Piemontese pudding of amaretti, chocolate, rum, caramel and coffee), cannolo Siciliano and profiterole with chestnut gelato

Being a lover of all things spicy, the pasta dish was inevitably my favourite dish of the evening.  'nduja according to the Restaurant Manager is something like liquid sausage with chili.....it was hot, spicy and very aromatic, added to the sweetness of the red onion, the tartness of tomato, the creamy texture and buttery taste of the cream and the al dente pasta made one sensational dish.  The suckling pig was so tender that it fell apart at the slightest touch of the fork, and completely melted in the mouth.  It didn't need anything at all - perhaps the acidity in the grape cut through the fatty taste, but so did our wines!

For wines, we had 3 Barolos from the 1997 vintage, plus a 2001 Gaja Costa Russi. 

1997 Barolo La Serra, Gianni Voerzio: A very fresh nose, reminiscent of cherry, roses, tobacco, chalk and graphite minerality.  Liquorice, earthy and leather notes followed after some aeration in the glass.  Medium-bodied, with perfectly balanced acidity and mellow tannin. A touch of sweetness on the medium-length finish.  Not a blockbuster wine, but makes a harmonious accompaniment to the veal tartare dish. Drinking at peak now and for next 3 - 4 years.  17/20

1997 Barolo Bric del Fiasc, Paolo Scavino: Quite a change in style......much more flamboyant than the Gianni Voerzio Barolo.  Fruit for this wine is from vineyard in Castiliogne Falletto, so big and structured.  Medium ruby.  A bouquet depicting warmth, intensity and richness of ripe plum, dark cherry, roses, dark chocolate, smoke, tar, leather and liquorice.  Medium body with a velvety texture, bolstered by firm acidity and fine-grained tannin.  Very scrumptious, still showing plenty of character and complexity, and a persistent finish.  A profound wine that offers appeal and depth, ideal drinking now, and over next 5 - 6 years.  17.5/20

1997 Barolo Rocche dell'Annunziata Riserva, Paolo Scavino: Fruit from La Morra. Deep ruby.  A pronounced and intense perfume of plum, raisin, stewed prunes and figs, dried roses, violet, kirsch, liquorice, leather and earthy notes.  There seems much more concentration here than the Bric del Fiasc and the mouthfeel is more generous, flaunting much more of the ripe fruit and mouth-coating tannin, giving it a chewy texture and a very long finish. This is very fine indeed - a lush, heady and opulent wine that is at once seductive and elegant.  Drink now and over next 8 - 10 years.  18/20
      
2001 Costa Russi, Gaja: Mostly Nebbiolo with around 5% of Barbera....from single vineyard Costa Russi in Barbaresco.  A wine with much elegance and class.  Liquorice, black cherry, smoke and violet. Fine-grained tannin balanced by firm acidity effortlessly carrying the flavours across the palate.  A very stylish and persistent finish.  This wine can do with more bottle age, to soften the tannin and to become even more harmonious.....but it's already irresistibly attractive today.  Drink now and over next 10 - 15+ years. 18/20     

These Barolos are so fine, elegant and full of character, that we wonder why we don't drink them more often!! 

Accademia del Barolo in HK

28 May 2012:  It was really a privilege to be invited to a Masterclass tasting of the 2007 vintage with the distinguished members of the Accademia del Barolo, which counts 14 producers amongst its members:  Azelia, Michele Chiarlo, Conterno-Fantino, Damilano, Poderi Luigi Einaudi, Gianni Gagliardo, Franco M. Martinetti, Monfalletto-Cordero di Montezemolo, Pio Cesare, Prunotto, Luciano Sandrone, Paolo Scavino,  Vietti and Roberto Voerzio.  This is the first time the Accademia's members visited Hong Kong. All except 2 (Luciano Sandrone and Roberto Voerzio) of the members sent in a representative (family member or the winemaker himself) or wine samples and in most cases, both!  The mission statement of the Accademia is to spread the word about Barolo and improve the overall public's knowledge of this King of wines (and wine of Kings).  Great kudos to Debra (and Sarah) who convinced the producer members to come visit HK during Vinexpo, to spread the word about Barolo to HK wine-lovers, and even better to bring their best bottles! 

All the wines showed amazingly well, each extremely expressive of the style of the producer, the character of the Nebbiolo grape and that of the terroir. Some were made in a more 'rustic', slightly more austere style,  while others showed more extraction (albeit retaining much elegance) wrapped in a more modern, readily approachable style.  It would be very hard to rank the wines because they were all so delicious.  Debra encouraged us to taste and re-taste the wines in the glasses, once they had had time to flourish and develop with aeration. All showed gorgeous ripe fruit and depending on the style, either floral or spicy, with chocolate/liquorice notes. All were extremely well balanced and beautifully structured.  My favourites were: Vietti Barolo Brunate which was feminine and voluptuous, Monfalletto-Cordero di Montezemolo Barolo Enrico VI which was aristocratic, lush and concentrated, and the Michele Chiarlo Barolo Cerequio which was very stylish, with great character and seductive aromas.....but I also admired very much the Paolo Scavino Barolo Bric del Fiasc (great aromatics, powerful and concentrated), the Pio Cesare Barolo (harmonious and elegantly balanced) and the Gianni Gagliardo Barolo Cannubi which was ever so ethereal, with silky tannin and very fresh fruit! 

The 2007 vintage line-up - absolutely gorgeous wines!!!

Debra and Patrick also very generously organised a private dinner for a few wine-loving friends with this distringuished group of wine producers on the previous evening, so that we would have the opportunity to speak to them in more casual setting.  Not only were we treated to some great bottles with some age, we were also regaled with a sumptuous buffet of fine cuisine prepared by Patrick (I loved the stuffed peppers - an unusual stuffing with pig's livers)!  The immaculately orchestrated procedure was rather annoyingly interrupted by an onslaught of flying termites which went on for almost an hour and a half before they retired to bed at 9 pm. I slightly lost track of what I tasted or not.....however, from memory, we tasted a very fine 2001 Vietti Barolo Brunate and a gorgeous 2006 Michele Chiarlo Barolo Cerequio with great intensity and depth.  The 1998 Paolo Scavino Barolo Riserva Rocche dell'Annunziata was definitely a favourite of mine, still flaunting so much vigour, concentration and firm structure.  Debra and Patrick were incredibly generous, as were our friends from Barolo, who were all incredibly friendly and so willing to share their passion and love of Barolo with us! 

We were all warmly invited to visit Piemonte which, like Burgundy of France, offers great food and great wine!!!  Let's drink more Barolo because it truly deserves to be celebrated!!