Celebrating the 1964 Vintage

24 Jun 2014: Turning the corner at 50....is the man worthy of the wine??!! We're here to find out with a couple of friends at this particular hallmark!

The original label for the 64 Figeac had disappeared with age....hence a handwritten one!

Here's proof that it was a Figeac!

1995 Krug: Golden colour. An intense bouquet of honeycomb, toast, pear tart, hazelnut and white flowers. Creamy texture, and the bubbles very fine indeed. Still cherishing lively acidity. This is definitely a rich style...opulent and succulent. Saline mineral finish.....and very long. 17.5/20

2002 Corton Charlemagne, Simon Bize

A lemon colour. Toast, spice, lemon and a precise minerally finish. Such finesse and such delineation! Very classy and very expressive of the terroir. Finishes extremely long. 18/20


1964 Cheval Blanc: A garnet hue. A powerful and intense bouquet of mocha, dark chocolate and blackberry, and with aeration, taking on layers of cedar, violet and leather. Full bodied with a robust structure, underneath a veneer of velvet, succulent with just some remnants of unresolved tannin. Perfectly balanced with refreshing acidity. This needed time to wake up, after 1.5 hour. Simply gorgeous and utterly opulent. Glad to know that there is promise of a long life! 19/20


1964 Figeac: A garnet hue. For a few of us, this remained the darling of the evening until the Cheval Blanc woke up and we had to concede that the Cheval Blanc had just that extra bit of power and mileage! Cedar, violet, blackcurrant, blueberry, tobacco. Medium bodied, with beautifully integrated tannin and lively freshness. Fragrant and very elegant, almost like a ballerina! 18.5/20


1991 Tokaji Aszu, 5 Puttonyos, The Royal Tokaji Wine Company
A deep amber colour. A very musty whiff initially. Raisin seed, balsamic, toffee, walnut, rye bread. Luscious, but firm acidity. Full bodied but not heavy at all. Finishes nicely, quite elegant. 17/20

Well, the man was certainly worthy of the wine!  And vice versa!

Bourgogne in 1993

2 May 2014: We were generously treated to a most memorable evening at DN Innovación, Taipei, which could be named a celebration of the 1993 vintage in Bourgogne! On arrival, our palate was refreshed by a glass of Krug Rosé, lovely creamy mousse of delicate fine bubbles bringing together elegance and vivacity. The chef had prepared for us a tin of Norwegian salmon mousse, topped with orange caviar, to whet our appetite.

Then we were served a platter of 3 tapas: deep-fried tofu skin with caviar, iberico ham wrapped around white asparagus and a pan seared red shrimp, bursting with sweetness from the flesh of the red shrimp. A pair of 73 Dom Perignons were served to go with these tapas.

The 1973 Dom Perignon showed a medium gold robe. The bouquet was a mature expression, with savoury notes, mushroom and rye toast overlaying the honey, caramel, roasted hazelnuts and acacia. Creamy mousse with still persistent fine bubbles within a richer and fuller body than the later disgorged version (Réserve de l’Abbaye). Long and satisfying finish. 17.5/20

The 1973 Dom Perignon Réserve de L’Abbaye had received over 20 years of ageing on lees, compared to the minimum 7 years for the normal vintage version. The bouquet was fresher, as was the palate. Notes of citrus marmalade, orange peel, almond and pear. Distinct minerality lined the energetic and relatively youthful palate. Crisp vibrant finish. A stunning wine that promises a strong mid to long term cellaring potential. There was hardly any sign of the supposed accelerated ageing post disgorgement here…….18/20 (This bottle was sourced in Japan – it seems that the Réserve de L’Abbaye label was first released in 1994 as a late disgorged 1962 vintage champagne in the Japanese market alone. The label is a cream-coloured label, compared to the Oenothèque label which is dark slate grey.)

A quick word about the 1993 vintage here….an excellent year for reds if the awkward tannins did not get the better of the fruit....after a cold start to the vintage, warmer temperatures arrived late May....the earlier part of the growing season was marked by a number of weather hazards (hail storm, torrential rainfall in June/early July)....the vines were then a bit stressed out by the dry hot weather in second half of July continuing into August. Rain came to the rescue early September and allowing the grapes to ripen through to harvest date. For the reds, tiny berries with thick skin. Rain did arrive mid-harvest....and caused a few concerns! When to harvest was a critical decision for this harvest, casting the die for the level of maturity and acidity.

Following this pair, we were served 2 Montrachets from the 1993 vintage, one by Leflaive and the other by Domaine de La Romanée-Conti (DRC).

The 1993 Leflaive Montrachet showed a superlative opulent bouquet…..smokey, very ripe pear, brioche, nuts, quince with liquorice, with tremendous balance, harmony and concentration framed in a full body. The intensity of the flavours and the gargantuan proportions building into a crescendo, with the finish lasting over a minute. Very impressive! This provided very worthy company to the pan-fried goose liver with hazelnut and seasonal berries (and I think I found a piece of roasted pineapple too!). 18.5/20

The 1993 DRC Montrachet was the quiet one at the beginning…..and it took over 45 minutes to open in the glass! Honey, pear, ripe apple initially, and taking on smoke and spicy notes later on. While this did not have the expansiveness and fullness of the Leflaive, this was elegantly balanced, subtle and unassuming in the way it delivered depth and power. Very classy. I think this is nowhere near its apogee, with a long way to go. My neighbour who’s a connoisseur of DRC Montrachets (I think DRC in general) told me that right now we should be drinking the 1982, 1983 and 1985 DRC Montrachets. Not sure I will ever get that chance to imbibe again this heavenly nectar made with such delicate hands! 18+/20

The 1993 Romanée Saint Vivant, Leroy was the perfect Vosne….spicy nose, with beautiful fruit of raspberry and a hint of prune, with some coffee notes. Very supple on the palate, silky to the touch. There was no excess of acidity on the palate, which seemed to be a hallmark of the 1993 vintage. The quality of the firm tannin of the vintage was more vividly felt on the palate, leaving a slightly astringent finish, but the overall impression was still one of harmony. Drinking so beautifully now…….with a long life ahead. 19/20

The DRC equivalent was a bit disappointing. It did not have the same generosity on the palate as the Leroy, though the nose was still very Vosne, but less intense than the Leroy. The acidity and the firmness of the tannin were also more poignant here, more eagerly felt, despite the quality of ripe fruit underneath. I am not sure if there would be enough fruit to see this last another decade! 16.5/20

The long-tailed red snapper in an iberico ham consommé was very delicate!

We next had a pair of 1993 Bonnes Mares: d’Auvenay and Comte Georges de Vogüé. The d’Auvenay was a little restrained today……there was firm acidity and tannic structure. The nose was still very primary, consisting mostly of red fruit and spice. Well-balanced and very elegant. There was just a hint of bitterness detected at the finish. Very youthful today….I would recommend trying this again in 8 – 10 years’ time. 18/20

The de Vogüé version was a deeper ruby than the d’Auvenay version. On the nose, it showed more evolution with ripe fruit, sous-bois, coffee and earthy notes. Much more fleshy on the palate than the d’Auvenay, with greater density and concentration. This paired exceptionally well with the forest of mushrooms with aged raspberries! 18/20

The next flight was 3 Clos de La Roche: Leroy, Rousseau and Dujac. The Leroy was harmonious in every sense…..sweet on entry, great balance and freshness on the palate, with very expressive aromatics of prune, plum, and game. Like silk, it caressed the palate. Finishes long. 18.5/20 (this for me was the best pairing with the pigeon bun, Spanish style! )

The Rousseau seemed a little four-square and less refined, albeit with more than a hint of Burgundian classic characteristics. Sous-bois, earthy and spicy notes. Lacking in complexity and concentration on the palate. It did develop a little in the glass but not enough to warrant a higher rating. 17/20

The Dujac was in a style of its own. Lively acidity, ripeness of fruit, and finesse of structure characterised this gorgeous wine. Mineral notes on the palate, giving this wine an edge of its own. Lithe and elegant, very boutique-ish. A very fine Clos de La Roche! 18/20

The last red wine flight was the Musigny flight. The 1993 JF Mugnier was disappointing….rather light, ungenerous and did not have the weight and concentration of the class. 16.5/20

The de Vogüé was aromatically a bit dumb – it did not really open up in the glass.. Perhaps if we had given it a full hour, the result would have been different. Quite clumsy on the palate too, a bit chunky….did not deliver the finesse expected of a Musigny, while there was certainly weight, complexity and concentration. 17.5/20

We saved the best till last - the 1993 Musigny, Leroy. It was the epitome of Burgundian finesse, elegance and terroir typicity. It resonated a panoply of aromas from plum, prune, to truffle, sous-bois, rose petals and spice. The palate was silk-woven tapestry of complexity, depth, concentration, balance and seamless harmony. A very classy wine and one that left you wanting for nothing more! Perfection in a glass. Drinking very well now but there is enough to keep this going for another 10 – 15 years. 20/20 (this went so seamlessly with the suckling pig croquette with cherry kirsch butter and truffle! And the Wagyu beef short rib too!)

We finished with a sensational 1993 Tokaji Esszencia, Château Pajzos. Lusciously sweet, concentrated, unctuous, and well-balanced. Aromas of date, caramel, rich dark honey, pineapple and lychee. Excellent acidity.  This was serious indulgence.  18.5/20

Mostly the 1993’s we tasted this evening had been of a consistently high quality, with just a couple of less successful examples, justifying the acclaim for this vintage for reds. Even the whites came through with dazzling colours (as it’s only meant to be a ‘good to average’ year for whites by most counts!)

An Unusual Birthday Present

4 Mar 2013: Most of us run out of ideas when it comes to anniversary or birthday presents for our loved ones, even for the most creative individuals amongst us. This is the best one I have heard: a plot of vines every year and even more remarkable when the vineyards are in the region where your loved one comes from!  Presents of love from a wife to a husband!



The wines by Holdvölgy

 Year after year, the vineyard area grows in size, to a very respectable area of 25 hectares. With the purchase of a property with a 2-kilometer long cellar dating back to 14th Century, the Holdvölgy winery (literally translates to "Valley of the Moon") was born and entrusted to the brother and sister team, Pascal and Natália Demkó, with their respective skills complementing the technical knowledge and experience of winemaker Stéphanie Berecz.  The 25 hectares, consisting of 19 parcels in 7 vineyards, are located in the Mád Valley of the Tokaji region, where their father comes from.  Using indigenous grape varieties including Furmint, Hárslevelü, Sárgamuskotály, Zéta and a couple others, Holdvölgy's aim is to make handcrafted wines, that marry a deep respect for the terroirs and the traditional custom, with modern day winemaking skills, creative product design and clever branding.  Pascal was very excited about the newly completed winery: like a NASA project in the middle of the sleepy and traditional Mád Valley.  (www.holdvolgy.com)
Pascal jetsetted in for this very special wine tasting dinner at Pierre Restaurant, whose executive chef handled the challenging task of pairing Holdvölgy's wines with 6 different dishes with great dexterity and aplomb, each dish successfully bringing out the character of each wine. 



Seabass carpaccio, with seaweed mayonnaise and mustard ice-cream
 (Sorry, I took the photo when the ice cream had started melting!)

Line-caught seabass carpaccio, seaweed mayonnaise, mustard ice-cream, grilled sweet red peppers 2007 Meditation: Dry wine, made with 100% Furmint, 80% fermented and aged in stainless steel and 20% in barrels.  The pairing with the seabass carpaccio and seaweed mayonnaise was marriage made in heaven!  A very attractive nose of honeysuckle, pineapple, passionfruit and honey notes, layered with almond, toast and smoke.  Medium bodied, smooth texture gently coating the palate to wrap up with a minerally salty finish. Drink now and for next 4 - 5 years.  A very versatile wine for pairing with food, particularly seafood!  17/20

Abalone with tuna and sesame

Abalone/bacon, melba toast with tuna and sesame
2009 Expression: Dry wine, made with 100% Hárslevelü, from the single vineyard of Betsek.  Lime blossom, grapefruit, and herbal nose.  Nicely rounded mouthfeel, creamy texture, balanced by vivid acidity.  The palate is all minerality and purity, with beautiful fine detail and a very long finish.  A wine of pedigree and class. Great stuff. Drink now and for the next 8 - 10 years. 18/20 

Blue lobster, with green tea and almond paste

Blue lobster "aiguillettes", cauliflower cream flavoured with lobster coral.
Green tea and almond paste butter.
2007 Eloquence, Szamorodni (104 g/litre residual sugar): Sweet, made with Furmint and Hárslevelü.  A very interesting rendition of these two grape varieties.  Apricot, orange peel and honey, with toast and nutty nuances.  Interesting dry sensation on the finish, very long.  17.5/20 
The sweet nutty and toasty notes of the wine paired very well with the umami flavours of the lobster coral and the richness of the almond paste butter, and the bitter-sweet taste of the green tea striking a harmonious note with the Szamorodni character!
This dish could also go very well with Meditation.

Pigeon, with black pepper, foie gras, black truffle and blood orange sauce

Provençal Socca, lamb's lettuce salad and pan-seared celery with blood orange; thinly-sliced pigeon with black pepper, foie gras and black truffle.
2008 Intuition No.2, Late Harvest (99 g/litre residual sugar): Sweet, made with Sárgamuskotály (Muscat à Petits Grains) from the oldest vineyard Nyúlászó, aged in French and Hungarian casks.  I had tried this wine before and this had not been my favourite wine of the range.  However, tonight, the pairing with pigeon, foie gras and black truffle, with the very zingy blood orange sauce, spiced up with black pepper, brought to life this wine.  A perfumed bouquet of elderflower, honey and grape.  Full-bodied, perfectly balanced, with firm acidity, that stood up to the zinginess of the blood orange sauce. This pairing was so impeccable that it got voted the best pairing of the night!   18/20  (This wine has now been renamed Exaltation.)

French cheese selection (Ossau Iraty, Vacherin and Bleu d'Auvergne).
2007 Signature, Szamorodni and Aszú blend (125 g/litre residual sugar): Bravo to a concept that embraces tradition with the unique Holdvölgy style.  Made with the 3 grape varieties: Furmint, Hárslevelű, Zéta. The intensive bouquet of honey, apricot, honeysuckle and orange peel wafting up to your nose from the glass.  Medium-full body, bolstered by a perfect amount of acidity to give a lithe and elegant structure, like a ballerina dancing off your palate.  On the palate, it is an explosion of dry Furmint and botrytised Hárslevelü flavours, interlayered with tension and energy derived from minerality and acidity.  Finishes very long.  18/20 
Pascal recommended Fourme d'Ambert with this wine and I, Salers. 

Lemon custard dessert

Clementine syrup: segments, candied rind and Grand Marnier ice cream.
Grapefruit/Campari/rhum sherbet, omiza jelly. 
Large almond lace biscuit: Lemon custard, crisp dessert with lemon and angelica brushed over with olive oil.
2006 Culture, 6 Puttonyos Aszú (174 g/litre residual sugar): Made with fully botrytised Furmint and Hárslevelű grapes. Aged for 2 years in new Hungarian casks.  Medium golden robe.  An intense bouquet of grapefruit marmalade, candied peel, honey, fig,  apricot, quince, macadamia and butterscotch. Full-bodied, unctuous, the decadent richness niftily balanced by searing acidity, giving the very long finish a refreshing and satisfying lift.  An utterly serious wine, lush, seductive and powerful, that keeps luring you back for more, with its memory haunting you for a very long time.  19/20   This is the only traditional Aszú wine made by the winery.  (Pascal said that a dark chocolate dessert could be quite good - otherwise Culture is best enjoyed on its own - I totally agree with him!  Very hard to rival with near perfection!)



Liquid gold served in a porcelain spoon

The final treat was 2009 Esszencia (750 g/litre residual sugar) served in a porcelain spoon, so that we could admire the beautiful colour of this nectar.  One sip, and the mind raced round for adjectives, wild flowers, frangipane, honeycomb, nectarine, quince jelly, candied orange peel, and perfume.  Still in its youth, but this already showed promise as the finest embodiment of all good things about Tokaji: harmony, perfection, precision, heritage and patience.  The finish of this full-bodied liquid gold lasted a minute or longer.  20/20 (Sadly, this product is not available commercially: it is strictly for the family consumption!  And Pascal said very good for his children for curing all sorts of ailments!)

The bottle of liquid gold

It was a truly memorable evening, with very high quality food, exquisite wines and impeccable food and wine pairings, and a very convivial atmosphere.......what a remarkable journey it was and this is just the beginning for Holdvölgy.  I really hope we will start seeing more Holdvölgy wines on restaurant wine lists - they have a very unique identity about them!

A Vertical of Richebourg

5 October 2012: Richard and I were so excited be part of this very special wine dinner at DN-Innovacion in Taipei (www.dn-asia.com). A highly recommended restaurant serving creative and molecular Spanish dishes with interpretations of classic Taiwanese dishes!!



Golden foie gras ball



Scrambled egg with chanterelle and beef noodles!



24-hour duck breast

Chef Daniel Negreira prepared a special menu of 17 courses of bite-sized creations for us. I was particularly impressed by the shimmering golden ball of chocolate and foie gras, the simply irresistible interpretation of Taiwan's famous beef noodles, infused with truffle aromas (I simply had to soak up the aromatic and intensely flavoured broth with bread!), the very tender 24-hour duck breast, the ingenial interpreation of another Taiwanese classic "ba wan" (or meatball) - succulent meat, intensly flavoured, the al dente and beautifully flavoured Japanese octopus and the finale of Kobe beef cheek with porcini mushrooms - simply divine, utterly indulgent and rich.


As for the wines.........


NV Initial, Selosse: A blend of Grand Cru villages from Avize, Cramant and Oger.  Very refined nose, showing signs of vibrancy and complexity. Toast, grilled almonds, citrus zest, enriched with ripe pear, apple and white peach notes on the nose. Lively acidity and a creamy texture, with fine persistent bubbles filling the palate. Bursting with energy and minerality. Bitter almond aftertaste on the long finish. Gorgeously well-made and a very fine 'house' champagne. 17/20

NV Krug Private Cuvée Silver: A blend of older vintages, probably from 1968 to 1979? This version made in the Brut style, although it had also been made in the Extra Brut style. Amber robe. Rich developed bouquet of caramel, apricot, frangipane, macadamia, sweet corn and sugar cane notes. Cashmere-like texture of delicate mousse and a medium body. Showing great balance for its age, with lively acidity, keeping the palate fresh and exhilarating. Love the spicy cinnamon finish. Opulent and seductive. 17.5/20

1947 Krug: Unfortunately, I find this past its best, and rather lifeless. Deep amber robe. Very madeirised nose of dried orange peel, quince paste, mango chutney, grilled hazelnuts, coffee and caramel, lots of torrefacton. Rather flat on the palate. Perhaps better enjoyed at the end of the meal, with dried fruit and some cheese? 13.5/20

1979 Krug Clos du Mesnil: Uniquely classy and stylish. First ever vintage for Krug Clos du Mesnil. Apparently only 6 bottles left in Krug's own cellars. So this is really a special treat to be able to admire this rare beauty, that seems to have escaped the ravaging of the passage of time, and has stayed rather youthful and timeless. Pale straw lemon robe. The freshness is simply amazing. Very classy bouquet of acacia, spice, citrus, ripe apple and pear. Creamy mousse of very fine and persistent bubbles, with vibrant acidity, keeping the wine extraordinarily fresh and energetic. Finish goes on and on. There is no hurry to drink this wine at all, at this rate of development. Stylish, ageless, sheer class. 19.5/20

2007 Meursault, Coche-Dury: Decanted for 2 hours. Very elegant nose of white flowers, nutty, citrus, ripe apple, ginger and cinnamon. Light/medium body, but gradually takes on weight as the wine develops in the glass. Vibrant acidity. Very youthful. Nice crisp finish. Brilliant crafted village level Meursault. A long life ahead......drink over next 8 - 10+ years. 16.5+/20
2007 Meursault-Genevrières, Coche-Dury: A serious step-up from the Meursault villages, in terms of intensty, concentration, weight and complexity. A wine with a huge amount of character, but will need some time to become more integrated and harmonious. Try from 2016+. Drink over next 12 - 15+ years. 18/20

1997 Meursault, Coche-Dury: Golden hue. Nutty, caramel, soya sauce, toasted hazelnuts, marzipan, ripe pears and confectionery. Firm acidity. Harmonious and well developed. Drinking at peak now and will continue to drink well over 5 - 6 years. Excellent with food. 17/20

1996 Richebourg, Anne & François Gros: Very elegant nose. Supple on palate. Complexities of herbs, compost, earth, lifted by ripe fruit and spices. A little lacking in concentration. Seems a little ungenerous on palate. Not a very long finish. A feminine style wine, but nevertheless well-made and totally integrated and harmonious. Drink now and over 8 - 10 years. 17/20
1996 Richebourg, Leroy: A huge contrast to the previous 1996. Muscular, lush, rich, dense and concentrated. Black fruit, floral, cloves and spices. Nuances of warm pebbles on palate. Despite the dimensions of the elements, a wine of great balance and immense character. Will need some time to mellow. Just a little intimidating at the moment. 18/20

1993 Richebourg, Meo-Camuzet: A very classy embodiment of finesse, elegance, concentration, Burgundian complexity and balance. Coffee, earthy, sous-bois, cloves, spices, ripe black fruit, plum, with velvety tannin and firm acidity, all fitted into a broad-shouldered frame. Simply gorgeous to enjoy now with food, and with a long life ahead! Almost combining the best of the last 2 wines. 19/20

1969 Richebourg, Jean Gros: Unfortunately, slightly corked.
1967 Richebourg, The Wine Society: Probably a Remoissenet wine. Garnet hue. Amazingly fresh for its age. Animal, savoury, red cherry, raspberry and earthy. Very fine indeed, with much concentration and intensity. Finishes long. Rather impressed by this given the inferior vintage! 17/20
1967 Richebourg, Henri Jayer: a recent release directly from the cellars of Henri Jayer. Unfortunately, rather madeirised.

1962 Richebourg, Leroy: This is perfection in the glass - this symbolises Burgundy's finest: perfect harmony, impeccable balance and that understated elegance underlined with persistence that is so Burgundian. Mesmerizingly seductive in its aromas and irresistibly silky on palate. There is only admiration and awe for this wine. A very demure bouquet of dried rose petals, cinnamon, coriander seeds, cranberry, raspberry, sous-bois and tea leaves. Tasting incredibly fresh on the palate, that it could easily taste like "the youngest wine of the flight". Silky mouthfeel, wonderfully fresh, lifted by decent acidity, with a finish that goes on and on. This is a wine that leaves you wanting nothing more. A timeless beauty - Richard calls it "Audrey Hepburn". Drinking at peak now.  20/20

1961 Richebourg, DRC: In stark contrast to the 1962 Leroy, this is a demonstration of opulence, power and richness. Showing very ripe fruit, phenomenal concentration and density, with sizeable dimensions of well-integrated tannin structure and fine acidity. Perfectly balanced, with a very long finish. This is the "Marilyn Monroe" of the evening. Voluptuous and fleshy. Likewise, drinking ate peak.  19/20

1949 Richebourg, Liger-Belair: Lush, rich but sadly madeirised. Full-bodied. Torrefaction nose of chocolate, coffee, caramel and molasses.

1949 La Romanée, Liger-Belair: Remarkably fresh for its age. Aromatically hugely complex. Showing great balance, and sophisticated elegance and class. Silky tannin, totally integrated and harmonious. Showing no signs of deterioration at all. A perfect showcase of the timeless elegance and understated beauty and generosity of Burgundian's best. Long long finish. 19.5/20

1963 Tokay Aszu Esszencia: Brown with amber highlights. Fig, dried fruit, chocolate, wolfberry, ginseng and spices. Lusciously rich but brilliantly balanced by lively acidity. Like being regaled by an aria by Maria Callas. A long and fine finish. 18/20

These are all amazing wines and all worthy of our admiration for the labour and talent of the winemaker and the wonderful expression of the terroirs. I could not say that there was one conclusive style for Richebourg. With vintage differences, winemaker preferences and individual styles, nuances in soil and aspect differences, generalisation would not seem fair nor appropriate. For me, I have just been reminded again of the modesty one needs to maintain in appreciating Burgundy wines, because the surprise more often than not would overpower the expectation.

Thank you very much to our most generous host!

Hungarian Furmint and Italian Morellino di Scansano

19 July 2010: Totally unplanned, joined some girl friends for dinner at The French Window. The food was better than I remembered (last went in January for Richard's birthday), less gimmicky, more thoughtful and more flavoursome! We started with a bottle of Jacquart Mosaïque NV (assemblage of Chardonnay 35 - 40%, Pinot Noir 40 - 45%, Pinot Meunier 15 - 20%). Tiny persistant bubbles, a light golden colour. Aromas of pear, green apples, toast and grilled nuts leapt out of the glass. Refreshing acidity, subtantial enough to make it a good accompaniment to dishes such as my lovely scallops with truffle and mashed potato! Nice finish. I chose a Hungarian dry white for the evening: 2004 Oremus Tokaji Furmint Mandolás. A golden coat, noticeable age on the nose, with aromas of honey, hazelnuts, peach and tropical fruit. Still a good dose of acidity. Medium body with some richness. Perhaps lightly short on the length. A fruity style wine of some complexity but tasted a little tired last night- I would have preferred it when the wine still retained its fiery character and freshness. It went well with my friends' main courses, including the Bouillabaisse and ravioli with lobster in creamy truffle sauce.

I thought I did much better with the red: 2005 Fattoria Le Pupille Poggio Valente. The appellation is Morellino di Scansano. Scansano is one of the coastal regions in Tuscany and Morellino is the local clone for Sangiovese. The estate is owned by Elisabetta Geppeti (http://www.elisabettageppeti.com/). Poggio Valente is a wine made with 4 different Sangiovese clones (with some Alicante) grown on a single vineyard of 12 hectares. The first vintage was 1997 after Elisabetta bought the vineyard in 1996. I was really impressed by it - great value-quality wine, I think around HK$ 750 a botle on the wine list. After fermentation and MLF in stainless steel vats, the wine would spend around 15 months in 40% new oak and the remainder second-wine barrels. The wine is typically released 3 years after vintage. Medium body, firm tannins, vivacious acidity making up this well-textured wine with great balance. Aromas of red cherries, plums, undergrowth, herbal, sweet spices and a faint hint of smokiness and leather. A nice long finish. A wine style that combines concentration of ripe fruit, complexity, perfect balance, grippy texture and length. Drinking well now, and will continue to evolve over the next 5 - 6 years. 17/20

The red went really well with my duck dish - I finished every scrap! The perfectly cooked to medium duck breast was topped with a lovely layer of crispy pork crackling, and served with rather dainty spinach "croque-monsieur" triangles. Such delightful assembly and great flavours...a very brave combination of crackling and duck breast, but neither one ingredient was overpowering the other. The spinach was a little strange - perhaps Swiss Chard or kale would have been a more appropriate accompaniment.

A pity the restaurant wasn't busier last night (though admitted, it was Monday night) - it deserves better recognition!