The Majesty of Soldera: A Tasting of Five Vintages

10 Nov 2018: Widely acknowledged as a cult wine, Soldera (the wine) rarely features at wine tasting dinners. A conscious and defiant decision in 2012 to become an outcast of the Consorzio del Vino Brunello di Montalcino by bottling his 2006 vintage wines as Toscana IGT has no doubt elevated the cult status of the wine and the celebrity image of its owner, Gianfranco Soldera, whose genius and temperament divides opinion.

But Gianfranco was already an outsider before he even started. A native of Veneto and a former insurance broker working in Milan, he was determined to make the highest quality wine in this prestigious region. He purchased the 23-hectare estate of Case Basse located in Tavernelle, southwest of Montalcino, Tuscany, in July 1972. Located at an altitude of 320 metres, the Soldera property is adjacent to Gaja’s estate Pieve Santa Restituta which was purchased by Angelo Gaja in 1994. The area has long been recognised as an ideal region for Sangiovese. Kerin O’Keefe particularly noted the advantageous microclimate of this region in her book, "Brunello di Montalcino: Understanding and Appreciating One of Italy's Great Wines". She wrote “Averaging between 300 and 350m above sea level, fresh nocturnal breezes cool down hot daytime temperatures during the growing season, generating aromas and complexity. The vineyards are also elevated far enough above damaging spring and autumn frost and fog, but when compared to higher areas are just low enough to enjoy warmer temperatures that guarantee more consistent ripening. In fact, most producers in this area feel they have the best of everything: perfect altitude combined with complex and predominantly rocky, well-draining soils as well as warmer temperatures.”


Vines were planted between 1972 and 1973 at Case Basse and the slightly lower altitude Intistieti. The soils are low in fertility, well-draining, allowing the roots to access depths of around 10 metres. Only around 10 hectares are planted with vines to ensure that all the vines receive the best possible natural vinegrowing and winemaking from vineyard to cellar. After fermentation with native yeasts, the wine is aged in large (50-85hl) Slavonian oak casks for an extended period (typically between 48 and 70 months, much longer than the 2 years oak-ageing requirement by the Consorzio) in the underground cellar built of natural materials 14 metres below ground maintaining consistent temperature of 13°C and humidity of 85%. The wine receives minimum intervention with racking being the only intervention. No pressing, fining or filtration, and only minimal sulphites are added. Gianfranco and Graziella Soldera believe in respect for the soil and the biodiversity and sustainability of the environment to nurture healthy vines. At Case Basse the vineyards are planted in a complex ecosystem, made up of a wide variety of other plants, animals and insects. The botanical garden created by Graziella is widely acclaimed to be of extraordinary beauty.


The first vintage of the Soldera Brunello was 1977, commercialised in 1982. Soldera also produced a Brunello di Montalcino Riserva in the best vintages, until 2006. In 2008, a group of prominent producers were accused of blending other grape varieties to make Brunello, which by law should be a 100% Sangiovese wine. This became known as the Brunellogate. As a defiant gesture to protest against the Consorzio, Soldera decided to bottle his wines as Toscana IGT Soldera 100% Sangiovese dall’Azienda Agricola Case Basse® from the 2006 vintage (commercialised in 2012), as a message that the winery’s name was sufficient guarantee of quality.


Approximately 600 hectolitres or the equivalent of 85,000 bottles of wine from the vintages between 2007 and 2012 ended up on the floors of Soldera’s cantina in December 2012 as a result of an act of vandalism committed by a disgruntled employee who opened the valves of 10 casks of wine and drained these casks. The 2010 vintage suffered the most. Only 450 litres were left of the 2010 vintage. As a result, Gianfranco decided to only bottle the 2010 vintage in large formats (3,5, 6, 9, 12 and 15 litres) to be sold at specifically held auctions in aid of sick and poor children. Prices for Soldera wines (particularly for these vintages) skyrocketed as a result. (To illustrate, according to wine-searcher.com, a bottle of 2013 Soldera would cost around US$435, cf Gaja Pieve Santa Restituta 'Sugarille' at around US$ 135 a bottle or 2013 Castello Banfi Poggio alle Mura Brunello di Montalcino DOCG at around US$55 a bottle.  But price for wine is such a subjective measure!  These prices are for illustration only.)


Our very special wine dinner featured Soldera wines from the vintages 2006 to 2012, with the noticeable absence of the 2010 vintage, for the reason explained above. And to make it more special, we paired with Chinese dishes!

We started with a magnificent magnum of 1996 Pol Roger Extra Cuvée de Réserve. A beautifully aged champagne, with layers upon layers of umami and sweet spicy nuances, revealing notes of field mushroom, toast, honey, nougat, pear compote, marzipan and hint of candied ginger. The creamy mousse caresses the palate and leaves with a persistent finish. Glorious champagne, gracefully mature and deftly balanced. At a most harmonious place now! 19/20

 

The next wine was 2011 Meursault Clos des Bouchères, Roulot. I paired this wine with a curry-flavoured crab meat baked in its shell. This bottle showed much more ripe/bruised fruit than the bottle of village Meursault of the same vintage by Roulot that we opened earlier in the week. There is a moderated freshness despite the rounded texture of the wine, showing notes of hazelnut, cardamom, curry and honey. Overall, it lacks energy and seems much more evolved. But the coincidentally perfect pairing with the curry-flavoured crab meat was serendipity! Based on this bottle, drink now! 16.5/20

2006 Soldera: The earlier reductive note slowly dissipated with aeration in the glass. This is a wine of immense proportions that have now settled into a beautiful harmonious vinous state, showing velvety texture of well-honed freshness and supple tannins. Complementing the fruity notes of kirsch, dark plums and damask rose, are savoury and spicy notes of bacon, tar, cigar tobacco and liquorice. It is sensual and seductive, intense and persistent. Drink now and over next 10-15+years. 18.5/20


2007 Soldera: Here we find more herbal (tea leaves and mint) and dusty notes amidst the vibrant fruity notes of cherry, pomegranate and cranberry. The tannins were more delicate here but well-integrated into a silky texture. This made a strident contrast with the 2006. There was a ballerina elegance, aromatic purity and subtlety that transcended the appreciation of the wine. Drink now and over next 8-10+ years. 18/20


2008 Soldera: This demonstrates a return to the 2006 style. At this stage, it shows a hefty structure with a concentration of supple tannins, ripe and intense fruit flavours of dark cherries and plums, overlaid with savoury and wild herb notes. A distinct minerality fills the core of the wine, throughout the palate, that belies its bold and opulent first impression. This is a wine for the very long haul. Drink now and over next 15-20+ years. 19/20


2009 Soldera: Despite the warm vintage, there is a vibrancy and fruit purity that seems at odds with the vintage characteristics. The redcurrant and cherry fruit is ripe and succulent, but not overripe. Herbal and savoury notes adorn the layers, adding tea leaves, heather, violet and an exotic mocha nuance to the wine. This wine has an energy, purity, precision and finesse that makes it so enigmatic. Drink now and over next 10-15+ years. 18.5/20


2011 Soldera: A plethora of aromas and flavours leap out of this beauty. Red plums, kirsch, black cherries, blackberry, damask rose, tea leaves, wild herbs, sweet earth and liquorice are the immediate characters as the wine continues to evolve in the glass. Everything is in perfect proportion here giving a very harmonious picture of beauty and gratification. Underlying it all is a masterly crafted precision and balance that is so well managed in this warm vintage. This wine kisses the palate and leaves with a persistent aftertaste. Not quite in the same style as the 2006 and 2008 but I find a much more harmonious equilibrium here without losing the Soldera qualities. Drink now and over next 15-20+ years. 19/20


2012 Soldera: very sadly this met the fate of cork taint!


I thought it would be hard to ask everyone to come up with his/her top wine, but trying to come up with two top wines seemed equally challenging! In the end, 2006 and 2011 received the most votes, with 2008 closely following.  Were they Burgundian in style?  I would say they have their own unique elegance, finesse and harmony.  They are creations of passion and respect, crafted in this particular piece of Tuscany with its distinct terroir and ecosystem. 


Not having tasted these wines before, it was difficult to try and pair dishes exactly with each vintage.  So I put together a menu with a selection of dishes that could possibly work with most of the wines. The pan-fried Angus beef with garlic was a China Club signature dish that went particularly well with the 2006 and 2008 Soldera.  I thought there was a nice complement between the pork and lotus root patties and the 2007 Soldera. The chicken baked in rock salt was simply too succulent and delicious to complicate it with any wine!!!  The stir-fried string beans with minced pork and fermented beans did a nice job with the 2009 vintage, but equally it could have worked with the pork patties.  The stir-fried flat noodles with beef in satay sauce was an inspired choice to finish with - for me, it worked rather well with the 2011 vintage too!


Memory of this dinner and the superlative wines will stay with us for a long time!  And I have to thank The China Club for a fabulous job with the food and wine service! 

2002 Chambertins

1 Sep 2018:

The dinner described earlier also consisted of a pair of magnums of red Bourgogne wines:
2002 Chambertin, Trapet versus 2002 Chambertin Clos de Bèze, Bruno Clair


2002 Chambertin Clos de Bèze, Bruno Clair
Medium garnet. Mushroom, forest floor, violet, dried blossoms, dried raspberry. Balanced. Silky texture, suave, elegant, with forest floor note on finish. Drinking very well now and over next 5-6 years. 17.5/20


2002 Chambertin, Trapet
Less evolved on nose. Forest berries, sous bois, firmly structured with velvety texture and bold tannins that have mellowed. Lovely acidity, very youthful still. Ready to drink now, but will further develop over next 8-10 years. 18/20


2010 Puligny Montrachet Clos de La Mouchère, Henri Boillot

Pale lemon. Citrus, pear, nutty, smokey notes. Bright acidity, fresh and long finish. A very classy wine. (Note that not every bottle in this case was like this.) 17.5/20

I did not taste the other bottles in this photo - so no notes from me on them!!

A mini vertical of Rousseau Chambertin across 4 decades

19 Jul 2018:
On a torrential rainy evening in Hong Kong, we organised a mini vertical tasting of Rousseau Chambertin.

The line-up

 ​
1981 Krug
Amber/gold robe, with nuances of butterscotch, gingerbread, cinnamon, pear, apple compote and nougat. Delicate mousse and lively acidity greeted the palate, with the flavours unfolding and culminating in a long candied apple finish. 18/20 (Thank you, John!)

1995 Bonneau du Martray Corton Charlemagne
A pale gold colour. Almond, marzipan, with some bruised apple notes. Although showing oxidative notes, I did not find them unpleasant at all. The structure of the wine was still intact. I kept some back for the cheese course, it was actually not a bad complement at all. 16/20

2005 Rousseau Chambertin
Notes of plum, prune, nutmeg, sous bois and coffee. The vibrant acidity balanced the fleshy and succulent texture of the ripe tannins and the structure was impeccable. Great concentratation. It was an outstanding wine, powerful, structured, and a veritable benchmark for Chambertin. 20/20

1989 Rousseau Chambertin
The bouquet showed dried shiitake, wet leaves, forest floor, prune and leather. The silky texture was nicely balanced with fresh acidity. Finish was long if slightly drying. 19/20

1978 Rousseau Chambertin
Some VA had begun to creep into this delicate wine. An aromatic mature bouquet, if slightly marred by the acetaldehydes. The palate had a nice lift for the same reason, but for me, this bottle was past its peak. 16.5/20

1964 Rousseau Chambertin
Beautiful aromatics, with layers of leather, cardamom, cinnamon, truffle, earth and coffee. Harmonious, with a silky texture and bright acidity and a persistent finish that was almost mesmerising. A truly seductive wine. 20/20

The levels of the bottles

I took votes of everyone's best and second best wines of the evening. The 1964 had everyone's unanimous vote as best wine of the evening, followed by the 2005 as the second best for most, and a couple of us had the 1989 as their second best.

The staff at the Long Room of the Hong Kong Cricket Club did an amazing job with the wine and food service. Look forward to returning for another dinner.

Heaven made in Cheese

29 Jul 2018:

Champagne and Langres - heaven made in cheese!

It was the perfect occasion to share a beautifully aged Langres, with a few good friends and a bottle of 1996 Dom Pérignon. (Well, we actually needed two bottles so that we could have spare some for pouring into the cheese!)

Langres is a soft washed rind full-fat cow's milk cheese, with a wrinkly golden yellow to orange rind, sometimes covered with white down and an ivory paste. The 18th century cheese owes its name to the town of Langres, a historic fortified town in the Haute-Marne region of Champagne that boasts 3.5 km of remparts offering strategic views of the Marne Valley and beyond to the Vosges Mountains, as well as 12 towers and 7 gates. The Langres cheese is easily recognised by a concave hollow, known as the "fountain" (or "la fontaine"), reminiscent of the fortified remparts of its namesake town. This concave feature which becomes more pronounced with age, is due to the flattened cone-shaped terracotta moulds (called "fromottes") used in the making of the cheese and the fact that the cheese is not turned during its ageing process. Once turned out, the cheese is dried on platane leaves in wicker cages. The ageing process usually lasts a minimum of 3-4 weeks (usually longer, and total time depending on the size). Langres comes in 3 sizes: small (150-250 g), medium (280-350g) and large (800-1300g). The colour is due to the washing with brine and the natural annatto giving the cheese its distinctive colour. Marc de Champagne is sometimes added to the washing process to intensify the flavours.

The rind is sticky to the touch, with a brilliant sheen to its coat. It has an intense pungency on the nose, and on the palate, the dense texture passes from firm and chalky/grainy to a velvety soft creaminess that melts in your mouth, with extended ageing. The mildly salted umami-accented flavours remind one of fermented soya beans, dried citrus peel, and a farmyard note. The finish is long. It is no surprise that it is often referred to as the cousin of Epoisses.

The hearty gourmands would pour Marc de Champagne into the hollow. In my version last night, I made a cross in the top of the cheese, poured our champagne into the hollow until it overflows. I then left it to let the cheese soak up the champagne for almost an hour and a half before I served it. I dug a well into the cheese prior to serving, mixed around the cheese and champagne into a creamy, if slightly messy-looking mixture and served. The result was stunning - the champagne characters of mushroom, hazelnuts and caramelised apple notes complemented the complexity, and lent just a touch of acidity (see below wine note) to balance the creaminess of the cheese. It was a heavenly "mess"!

Heavenly "mess"!

On my cheese board last night (see below), I also served a Rove des Garrigues, one of my favourite goat cheeses from France. The local breed of Rove goats in the Provence/Midi-Pyrénées roam the garrigue-grown land and the aromas of the wild flora and herbs (wild thyme, juniper, wild rosemary, broom) find their way into the organoleptic profile of this wonderful fresh goat cheese. Serving it at its prime, this little round ball of cheese had a slightly wrinkly cream-coloured coat that was almost lifting from the soft white paste when cut. It had a refreshing citrus lactic tang, and a delicate herbal note, with a creamy texture that lingered most delicately. A tiny cheese that packs a lot in!

The cheese board with Tomme aux fleurs, Beaufort Chalet d'Alpage, Reblochon, Brie de Meaux, Langres, Lavort, Le Parthenay and Rove des Garrigues.

Langres and Champagne, a heavenly pairing!

As for the wines of the night, here are my short tasting notes:

1996 Dom Perignon: I would have liked this to be more zingy, more fresh.  It was a beautifully matured champagne, with a creamy mousse, nuances of mushroom, hazelnut, honey, caramelised apple shortbread notes, but to me, it lacked energy and tasted a bit flat and unexciting. However, I only tried one of the two bottles.  According to Richard who tasted from both, both bottles were very similar. 16.5/20

2010 Mount Mary Triolet: A blend of around 75% Sauvignon Blanc, with some 20% of Semillon and some Muscadelle from Yarra Valley.  It was a harmonious wine with measured acidity, notes of honey, toast and straw, with a medium length finish. 17.5/20

1982 Grand Puy Lacoste (in magnum): A very attractive bouquet of cedar, leather and tobacco, with just a hint of graphite and herbaceous note. It was elegantly structured, with pleasant acidity and a long finish. Drinking at its peak now, but would hold for another 8-10 years in large formats. 18/20

1982 Mouton Rothschild (in magnum): A more muscular version from the 1982 vintage, with smokey, dried blackberry, cassis, and black tea notes, with just a hint of leather.  It took a while to unfold in the glass and it revealed a robust structure, with ripe velvety tannins, and a soft acidity. The finish was long.  This was a classy claret still very much in its prime and would probably take at least 5-8 years to reveal its best, depending on the format.  19.5/20

2004 Climens: I did not taste this. I was told it was delightfully fresh and not a waste at all to taste it in its youthful stage.

An Epic Cheese, Food and Wine Pairing Evening

25 April 2018

This started off as a somewhat ambitious attempt to stage a multi-course cheese and wine pairing, alongside a wine and food pairing for each course. A few friends volunteered to join me on this educational “expedition”.  To ensure that we have a fresh palate to vote on the best cheese and wine pairing, I insisted on tasting the cheese first before the pairing dish for each course. 

The Wine Selection

The Cheese Selection

Course 1
The first course was paired by a champagne:
2002 Pierre Péters Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Cuvée Spéciale Les Chétillons: This bottle was much fresher than the last 2 bottles we tried from the same case. This was classy Blanc de Blancs, with the immediate attack of ripe fruit notes (apple compote and pear), overlaid with buttered toast and brioche notes, leading to distinct mineral tones on the mid-palate, with just a hint of field mushroom character. Creamy texture, full-bodied, this was an opulent and classy wine with crystal definition and a persistent finish. 95/100

Cheese pairing:
We paired this with Brie de Melun (Seine et Marne, cow). This soft bloomy rind cow-milk cheese was intensely flavoured, with earthy aromas from the rind. The soft and creamy texture pâte showed marked saltiness and a pronounced and persistent mushroom character.

The chiselled acidity of the champagne was able to cut through the creaminess, cleansing the palate with the fine bubbles. The savoury and mushroom character of the cheese paired quite well with the mature character of the champagne. Given the unexpected freshness of this bottle, next time I would have paired this cheese with a more mature example (a 1995 Krug?).

Food pairing: I paired the champagne with the classic smoked salmon on blinis, with a lemon-flavoured crème fraiche. The fresh acidity from the lemon balanced the richness of the smoked salmon. The toasted and citrus character of the champagne complemented the flavours very well.

Course 2

The next course was paired with a set of wines based on Sauvignon Blanc:
2008 Silex, Didier Dagueneau: 100% Sauvignon Blanc. A rich and powerful wine, layered with overt notes of tropical and green fruit, mango and gooseberry, lifted with refreshing acidity, delivering a remarkable balance and long persistent finish. A Sauvignon Blanc not like others, very distinct. 94/100

2011 Aile d’Argent: A blend of 60% Sauvignon Blanc, 38% Semillon and 2% Muscadelle. The Semillon seemed to have taken over the characters of this wine. The bouquet was floral, peach, pear, with honey and nutty nuances. On the palate, it tasted phenolic, leaving a slightly bitter note at the finish. A rich and opulent wine, balanced but somehow lacking in precision to rank it amongst the finest from Bordeaux. 90/100

Cheese pairing:
I served two goat cheeses: Mothais sur Feuille (Deux Sèvres, goat) and Selles sur Cher (Touraine, goat). Here, we agreed that the pairing was best when we paired the cheese and wine from the same region.

The Selles sur Cher with the firm texture which melted in the mouth, and the interplay of sweet, salty and citrus tangy notes, paired very well with the Silex.

The Mothais sur Feuille with its creamy, oozing texture, and the more pronounced salty and nutty character, found a better match with the Aile d’Argent.

Food pairing:
The vote was unianimous for the Silex when it came to pairing with the dish: Grilled asparagus with Iberico ham, and lemony crème fraiche.

Course 3

The third course was paired first with a pair of Syrah-based wines, followed by a Mediterranean style wine.
2000 Côte Rôtie La Turque, Guigal: This was a blend of Syrah with 7% Viognier, with fruit from the Côte Brune. The structure was initially tight and masculine, displaying ripe fine tannins and lifted with marked acidity. With aeration, it opened up to display a rich bouquet layered with notes of dark chocolate, clove spice, cassis, dates and figs. A flamboyant wine, made with precision. Long persistent finish. Drinking beautifully now, and over next 8–10+ years. 96/100

2000 Côte Rôtie La Mouline, Guigal: This was a blend of Syrah with 12% Viognier, with fruit from the Côte Blonde. This wine was at once more open and evolved than the La Turque. It was sensual aromatically and texturally, diplaying an elegant and fine-chiselled poise. The softer acidity was balanced by refined tannic structure. The bouquet was blackberry, plum, mocha and cardamom spice. An absolute beauty now, drinking so well, and will continue to do so over next 8-10 years. 95/100

1999 Château Musar: a blend of Cinsault, Carignan and Cabernet Sauvignon, each a third. Fermented in cement tanks with extended maceration, followed by a year ageing in French oak. There was the hallmark bretty gamey note, immediately followed by pronounced sauvage character of wild herbs, almost like the garrigue, and notes of prunes and plum. Good lifting acidity provided great balance to this opulent wine, with sinewy muscles. A very elegant wine. Drinking very well now and over the next 6-8+ years. 93/100

Cheese pairing:
24-month Laguiole (Aveyron, cow): the saltiness of the Laguiole and the spicy tangy and savoury notes from the extra aging worked reasonably well with the Syrahs, but I think these two Syrahs were too powerful for the Laguiole. I would pair this with a Saint Joseph or a Côtes du Rhône next time.

Mimolette Extra Vielle (Nord Pas de Calais, cow): Uncooked, pressed cow-milk cheese. Salty and savoury, with caramelised notes. The savoury character worked well with the Syrahs, and the fruitiness of the La Turque in particular went well to complement the salty character.

Ossau Iraty au Piment (Pays Basque, sheep): this pairing had the most votes. This uncooked pressed semi-hard sheep milk cheese from the Pays Basque had a slightly grainy texture, creamy and buttery in flavour, with herbaceous, nutty, floral and spicy notes. This paired very well with both Syrahs, but possibly even better with the La Mouline.

We experimented with Livarot (Normandy, cow) too. The washed rind was not too disastrous for the Syrahs – in that the wine did not taste bitter with the cheese. (I asked our friends to try both, with or without the rind.) The pungent note from the washed rind possibly worked much better with the characterful Musar.

Food pairing: I paired these wines with a 6-hour lamb shoulder with North African spices, chick peas and tomato, served with steamed ratte potatoes and Savoy cabbage. A very fine food and wine pairing, especially with the Musar.

Course 4

Final course was paired with a dessert wine.
1995 Riesling Sélection de Grains Nobles, Hugel: A golden hue. Pronounced acidity balancing the luscious sweetness. Complex notes of apricot, honey, beeswax, nuts and rye, with a slight smokey nuance. Delightfully refreshing and finishes long. 93/100

Cheese pairing:
I paired this with two different blue cheeses, just to demonstrate a bit of diversity amongst the blues.
Fourme d’Ambert (Auvergne, cow): Rich, creamy, with an open texture. Salty, with delicate notes from the blue mould, complementing the buttery and creamy notes. This paired brilliantly with the SGN.

Bleu de Gex (Jura, cow): A drier style of blue cheese, with semi-firm texture, dense and close, lightly salted, spicy and pepper nuances balancing the buttery taste, finishing with a slight bitter note. This actually paired rather well with the Syrahs.

Food pairing:
It had been an epic journey…so we just settled for a sliver of kueh lapis cake, the richness of which was washed down nicely with the acidity from the SGN.

Here's a summary:

Wine	Cheese/Dish
Champagne: Pierre Péters Les Chétillons, Le Mesnil, 2002	Brie de Melun (cow) Smoked salmon blinis
Sauvignon Blanc-based: Silex, Didier Dagueneau, 2008 Aile d’Argent, 2011	Mothais sur Feuille (goat)/Selles sur Cher (goat) Grilled asparagus, Iberico ham, lemon crème fraiche
Syrah-based: Côte Rôtie La Turque, Guigal, 2000 Côte Rôtie La Mouline, Guigal, 2000 Château Musar, 1999	24-month Laguiole (cow)/ Mimolette Extra Vieille, 24 months (cow)/ Ossau Iraty au Piment (sheep) Slow-cooked lamb shoulder with North African spices, chick peas, potato and Savoy cabbage
Sweet Wine: Riesling Sélection de Grains Nobles, Hugel, 1995	Fourme d’Ambert (cow)/Bleu de Gex (cow) Kueh lapis cake

A Fine Pair of Poitou Cheese and Charentais Wine

3 Mar 2018

A friend brought a special bottle last night - Domaine Le Petit Marand Cuvée Elise 2016 (Elise is daughter of Fabrice Papin, whose family owns this domaine - read the lovely message on the back label). Limited production of Chardonnay from the Gironde region - IGP Vin de Pays Charentais.  Only 1,830 bottles were produced. 10 months of élevage in oak barrels. Winemaker is Joël Bonneau. It was an added bonus to find that this bottle won a gold medal at the drinks business Global Chardonnay Masters in 2017! 

A grape variety not usually associated with this area of the Gironde, but I was told that the soil at the vineyard is chalk-dominated, and suited to Chardonnay.  Here the climate is warmer and more maritime than Chardonnay's spiritual home, Bourgogne.  Beeswax and white flowers dominated the nose, on the palate, there was a core of chalky minerality, with nuances of liquorice spice, Macadamia nuts and ripe pear.  Fleshy and slightly unctuous, balanced with soft acidity. Creamy and long finish.

We initially served it with the prawns and Marie Rose sauce starter, with guacamole and cherry tomatoes.  While it did a nice job, not overwhelmed by the slightly spicy sauce, it did an even better job later on when I went back to it with cheese.  I paired it with La Bonde de Gâtine, a raw goat milk cheese from the Poitou region.  La Bonde de Gâtine weighs about 150 grams, has a wrinkly charcoal-ash coated rind. It has a close and crumbly texture, giving a smooth yet dense paste, delivering ample saltiness and acidity. The characteristic fruity tang belies the mineral richness.  The generous character and vivid minerality of the Domaine Le Petit Marand wine paired beautifully with this cheese, with just enough acidity to cut through the richness of the cheese. 

About the other wines we had:

We started the evening with 2009 Dom Perignon.  The richness of the vintage was so well-carried off by the vibrancy and energy of this young Dom Perignon. Fine bubbles and creamy texture caressed the palate, delivering a serious yet approachable champagne, that is already drinking well.

With the main course, we had a magnum of Trotanoy 1990, and then a bottle of Trotanoy 1982 to finish off the evening.  Had the size of the bottles been different, we would have swapped them round. (Main course was Coq au vin blanc.) The 1990 showed more stewed plum fruit, with a slightly burnt character., with tobacco notes  It had an immediate hedonistic appeal, fleshy with a ripe and firm tannic structure, but it lacked the balance of lively acidity. No sign of waning here. Can be cellared for another 8 - 10+ years in this magnum format.

The 1982 was much more elegantly structured, with more complex bouquet of tobacco, violet and leather.  There was an understated finesse about this wine, but I felt that the fruit and the overall palate was a little weak and I would probably drink this wine in the 750 ml format within the next 4 - 5 years for optimum enjoyment. 

Chinese New Year Wines with a special focus on 2002 and 1997 vintages

Over Chinese New Year, we did a bit of damage to the cellar and it turned out to be a very rewarding experience to revisit the 1997 and 2002 vintages of some top Bourgogne reds!

Before then, let's take a look at some 2002 champagne:

2002 Gimonnet Special Club
Nose of apple compote, brioche, toasted hazelnut, butter shortbread, with blond cocoa notes. Creamy mousse, enriched with layers of flavours and caressing texture on the palate. Deftly balanced with crisp acidity, altogether culminating in a wine of supreme elegance. Finish is clean, crisp and lingers with the purity of Chardonnay. A very refined champagne, drinking at its peak now, but in no way showing signs of decline. Expect to hold for another 6 to 8 years. 18/20
(This sadly was our last bottle, which Richard salvaged for me to try! So pleased I got to try it.  It was truly remarkable!)

2002 Salon
Sublime nose of pure Chardonnay, with green apple, buttered toast, minerality notes.  Creamy mousse but somehow the bubbles did not quite dance persistently on the palate.  It felt a little flat.  Saline and slightly austere finish, and long.  Need to try another bottle to see if it was a one-off. 17/20

Then onto the 2002 vintage of Bourgogne reds:

2002 Robert Chevillon, Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Saints Georges
The intense bouquet reveals notes of ripe blackberries, sweet spices, underlaid with notes of minerality and earthy character. Voluptuous with a velvety textured body, yet the ripe tannin structure belies a muscular and firm structure, lifted by vibrant acidity. Bold and virile, a wine best paired with a Cote de Boeuf or a roast lamb dish. (It went beautifully with our faux filet de Limousin.) Finishes very long, lingering with a ripe fruity quality that has a beguiling sweet note. Ready to enjoy now, but one could wait 3 - 4 years for more complex tertiary character to develop in the wine. 17.5/20

2002 de Montille, Pommard Les Rugiens
The nose redolent of truffle, strawberry, Asian spice, balsamic, wild herbs, dried violet, overlaid with a sauvage character. Silky texture, bright acidity. A very fine drop, slightly dry finish but long. 17/20


And the best surprise of all, some excellent 1997 Bourgogne reds:

1997 Claude Dugat, Griotte-Chambertin
Sous bois, mushroom, cardamom, cloves, with prune and leather notes complete the beguiling bouquet. A wine still exuding energy and depth of character. Lively acidity (lifted with some VA), wrapped in silky texture, belies this wine's maturity. A very fine example of this vintage. Drinking perfectly now, at peak. While there are no signs of deterioration from this bottle, it would be a shame not to enjoy this at its peak. 17.5/20

1997 Dujac, Clos St Denis
The tertiary character now dominated by vegetal and sappy notes. The silky texture and elegant structure still lifted by lively acidity.  It was a brilliant display of sophistication and finesse so well defined by a wine of 20 years.  17/20

1997 Denis Mortet, Gevrey-Chambertin Lavaux St Jacques

Intense bouquet of prune, leather and mushroom. The texture was velvety, wrapping with it such balanced and lively acidity, underscoring the subtle power and firm structure of this wine.  A wine showing so well that we all felt that it was a fine example of wine punching above its weight. Finished very long, with just a sense of dryness on the finish.  18/20

And finally, a white Bourgogne from the 2004 vintage:

2004 Raveneau, Chablis Montée de Tonnerre
Minerality, green fruit, spicy, smoky notes define the nose. Lively but measured acidity threads through the medium-bodied palate, underscoring the freshness and vibrancy of this super Premier Cru climat, with the characteristic flinty, saline and lingering finish. A wine at its prime. We tested it in two different glasses. The liveliness seemed better preserved when served in the smaller tasting glass, than in the bigger Zalto universal glass. Perfect now. 16.5/20

I cannot wait to try more 1997 Bourgogne reds!  They seem to be at such a great place now......so far from the bottles we tried!

A mid-summer feast featuring stunning 1996 champagnes and elegant Romanée-Saint-Vivants

4 August 2017:

We were greeted with a glass of 1996 Selosse upon arriving at at Ephernité in Taipei. Chef Vanessa had created an exceptional menu, using excellent ingredients and her unique creative sense, to pair with the superb list of wines selected by our friend for this very special dinner, to celebrate the beginning of a new chapter for their family.

Vintage 1996 was chosen for the champagnes of the evening. As we tried them in pairs, there was one clear conclusion, that 1996 was indeed a great champagne vintage, and some of the wines were still so youthful and fresh that they would endure decades of cellaring.

1996 Selosse: very delicate mousse, so gently petillant, elegantly layered with intense ripe pear, marzipan and praline notes, lingering finish. Much better appreciated as a mature white Bourgogne. 16.5/20

Flight 1:

1996 Philipponnat Clos des Goisses: About 65% Pinot Noir and 35% Chardonnay. Compared to the Dom Perignon Oenothèque which followed, this showed a bright golden hue. Intensely aromatic with apple crumble and spicy pear notes, nuanced with almond and hazelnuts. The creamy texture and rich concentration showed off a vinosity balanced by vibrant freshness that made this wine a wonderful accompaniment to Chef Vanessa’s foie gras griotte mousse, a creamy ball of foie gras mousse delicately balanced by the acidity from the cherry fruit coating. 18/20

Watermelon ginger gazpacho and foie gras griotte mousse

1996 Dom Perignon Oenothèque: This seemed to have been trapped in a time warp. With its pale lemon colour and crystalline flavours and uncompromising minerality, this wine was full of tension and energy. Citrus peel and green apple notes, leading to a faint brioche character, and finally a saline finish. Amazingly youthful and finishing long. I would love to try this wine again in 10 years time to check its evolution. 18+/20

Salmon and caviar

Flight 2:

1996 Cristal Rosé: a beautiful light salmon colour. Fresh pinot fruit, raspberry and cherry, with a purity of expression, brilliantly balanced texture and acidity, with a crisp and long finish. A most refined rosé champagne, with such style and elegance. A very memorable experience when paired with Chef Vanessa’s visually and gustatorially extremely delectable local cherry tomato salad, flavoured with champagne vinaigrette and topped with flounder tataki, a dish bursting with summer freshness. I would score this wine 19/20

Tomato salad/champagne vinaigrette/flounder tataki

1996 Dom Perignon Rosé: a very different colour here, more orange-pink, more evolved. Savoury notes accompanied the ripe plum flavours. This seemed more loose-knit, less structured when compared with the Cristal in this rosé champagne pair. 16/20

Flight 3:

1996 Krug: I really liked the vinosity and richness of this wine. The savoury and nutty nuances, together with hazelnut shortbread and praline characters, were beautifully layered with ripe apple and pear notes. There was an elegant harmony that put this wine in a class of its wine. It could have earned a higher score, if only for the fact that it fell short of the lengthy finish and depth of flavours delivered by the Clos du Mesnil. 18.5/20

1996 Krug Clos du Mesnil: The freshness, pervasiveness of flavours, concentration were first-rate. This was a wine that delivered class and style with the opulence but balance from the 1996 vintage. A wine that appealed to the hedonistic senses. Spicy toffee apple, shortbread, toasted brioche characters with a thread of uncompromising minerality and purity that delivered an unequalled expression of Chardonnay from Champagne. 19.5/20

It’s so difficult to say which of the two wines was the better accompaniment to Chef Vanessa’s sublime creation of homard bleu served with passion-fruit flavoured beurre blanc. I might have to go for the Clos du Mesnil for the greater persistence of fruit.

Homard bleu/beurre blanc des fruits de passion

Flight 4:

1996 Montrachet, Bouchard: The first impression was a rich full-bodied wine that delivered great persistence. Creamy textured, with intense buttery, hazelnut and ripe pear notes, the acidity was well-woven into the rich complex flavours. There was a well-defined sense of place and expression of terroir. A big wine, perhaps not the most elegant example of its class, but it would certainly benefit from more years of cellaring before re-tasting. 17.5/20

1996 Montrachet, Lafon: Smokey, toasty and spicy nuances, with ripe pear notes. This wine attested to superior craftsmanship, with an elegance that belied the richness of this wine. This bottle however seemed more evolved than the Bouchard. I detected a faint oxidative note but the trace of volatile acidity might have appealed to others and it gave the wine a welcome lift in freshness. 17/20

Perhaps it was the citrus kumquat sauce in the dish for this flight, the Lafon Montrachet seemed the better accompaniment: garoupa in bamboo thick stock, served with organic wheat, okra and kumquat sauce.

Market fish/bamboo thick stock/organic wheat okra/kumquat sauce

1996 Meursault Les Gouttes d’Or, Leroy: One could detect the lovely materials that made this wine under the cork taint. A wine that deserves a re-trial!


To put the following two flights into context, a little history on the domaine and the vines, thanks to notes from Allen Meadows and Clive Coates. Sylvain Cathiard had been making wine independently since 1986, by renting the family vines. He eventually took over the control of the family’s vines when his father André retired in 1995. The Cathiard’s family wines had previously been labelled under Domaine Cathiard-Molinier. The farming of the particular Romanée-Saint-Vivant parcel, previously owned by André Galtié (a member of the Thomas-Moillard family) had been shared between Domaine Cathiard-Molinier and Domaine Arnoux since 1941. In 1984 Galtié decided to sell his inheritance of the Romanée-Saint-Vivant parcel, in total 68 ares (0.68 hectare), equally to Domaine Arnoux and Domaine Cathiard-Molinier, both having been sharecroppers. André Cathiard subsequently resold 17 ares back to the Thomas family. (This parcel of 17 ares was later sold to Wilf Jaeger in 2005, amongst other holdings of the Thomas-Moillard family and this Romanée-Saint-Vivant has since been leased to Domaine Dujac.) So the Cathiard holding remained as 17 ares (0.17 ha). Sylvain’s son Sébastien joined the domaine around 2005, after his various internships in Chablis, Bordeaux (Château Smith Haut Lafitte - the Cathiards in Bordeaux are distant relations) and New Zealand. The first vintage under Sébastien’s full control was 2011.

Flight 5:

1996 Romanée-Saint-Vivant, Sylvain Cathiard: This bottle showed a rather significant level of brettanomyces character and volatile acidity that made it far from enjoyable. It is worth trying another bottle at some stage. 15/20 for this bottle

1998 Romanée-Saint-Vivant, Sylvain Cathiard: There was again the brettanomyces character that made it less attractive, but not enough to detract our enjoyment of the well-delineated structure of the wine and the complexity from the savoury, mushroom notes underlying the charming cherry fruit. Still a lovely wine that showed elegance and class. 16.5/20

This flight was paired with Canard de Challans, fresh cherries and berries with porto sauce.

Flight 6:

1999 Romanée-Saint-Vivant, Sylvain Cathiard: It was hard to decide which of 1999 and 2002 we preferred, but I might slightly rate the 1999 a little above the 2002. There was just a little more delineation in the structure with the 1999 bottle, but the pure expression of fruit was very classy and testified to the hallmark of the winemaker.18.5/20

2001 Romanée-Saint-Vivant, Sylvain Cathiard: There was a hint of band-aid brettanomyces character in the beginning but it somehow managed to submerge into the pinot fruit, sauvage and sous-bois characters that dominated the nose after some aeration. A lithe and stylish wine. 17.5/20

2002 Romanée-Saint-Vivant, Sylvain Cathiard: Purity of pinot expression, smoothly textured, with well-defined ripe tannins, and a persistent finish. Very stylish and very moreish. 18/20

This flight was paired with Wagyu beef cheek stew, mashed potato and farm veggies, as well as a portion of home-made tagliatelle with girolles, which was a highlight worth saving room for!

Home-made tagliatelle/girolles

Wagyu beef cheek/mash potato/farm veggies

The final wine was paired with the cheese selection.

I had never tasted a Massandra before and this 1906 Al-Danil Tokay from the Massandra Collection (the oldest winery in the Crimea) was a very fine example of a perfectly matured lively dessert wine, with notes of dried figs, spicy fruit cake, caramel and balsamic, full-bodied, rich and concentrated, still brimming with vibrancy and energy. Such a rare treat!

Thank you very much to our generous hosts and friends, Iris and Joe, for all the memorable dinners we’ve had over the years. This dinner marked the beginning of your new journey and we look forward to sharing other memorable experiences with you soon, wherever they may be around the world!

And a note to Chef Vanessa and Restaurant Manager Claude - congratulations on your upcoming wedding!

Dessert of mango-peach crepe/lemon verbena jelly/passion fruit meringue

20 Years On...........checking on the 1997 vintage with Rousseau, Roumier, Lafon and Yquem

29 July 2017:
To commemorate this momentous event in 1997 that has shaped Hong Kong for the past 20 years, we pulled the corks of a few bottles from the said vintage to mark this historic date. We are pleased to report that while we would agree that there seemed no clear benefit in holding onto the 1997 bottles for extended cellaring, these bottles held up extremely well at our dinner!

The NV Krug Rosé and the delicious 1998 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne were not part of the 1997 line-up but helped get things started, and certainly with these gougères.

 

1997 Meursault-Perrières, Lafon: Shrouded in a golden robe, this gorgeously mature white Bourgogne delivered layers of ripe pear, marzipan and honeyed complexity with well-defined structure, and lingering finish. A remarkable wine with 20 years of age, with such elegance and class. 18/20

1997 Chambertin Clos de Bèze, Rousseau (magnum): This has also beautifully aged, with charming tertiary characters of sous-bois, truffle and prunes. The ripe fruitiness from the vintage was evident from the palate and finish. It was a charming wine with soft acidity, velvety texture and an almost sweet note on the finish, but compared to the next wine, it did not quite have the same precision or personality. 17/20

1997 Ruchottes-Chambertin, Christophe Roumier: There was a savoury and sauvage note in the character of this wine, together with better perceived acidity, giving this wine more personality than the previous wine. The structure was still well-defined, with an elegant litheness and a savoury long finish. 17.5/20

1997 Château d'Yquem: A gorgeous amber-gold colour. A perfect Sauternes, with measured balance of acidity, sweetness, with layers of complexity that kept inviting you to take the next sip. Apricot, tangerine, spicy caramel, honey, savoury rye characters with clear botrytis characters. A divine end to a delicious supper! 18.5/20


I am not sure some of these red Bourgogne wines would survive the next decade but I would be tempted to stage another 1997 tasting soon while memories of these are still fresh.

Seeking brilliance in the class of 1973

30 April 2017:
Richard and I were invited to a birthday feast in Taipei. It was a veritable feast in every sense, food and wine, at Ephernité, one of the latest culinary sensations in Taipei, run by a Taiwanese couple with French background.  The name of the restaurant "Ephernité" is coined from two words: "éphémère" and "éternité", combining two contrasting temporal concepts in this cosy yet minimalist-decor space where we get to appreciate high quality cuisine in a relaxed atmosphere. Chef Vanessa spent her formative years at L'Astrance in Paris where she honed her skills, in particular her pastry skills, before she and Claude returned to Taiwan to incorporate local ingredients (as much as possible) into her fusion style of cooking. With his Taiwanese roots, Claude, born and raised in France, looked after the wine service with extreme professionalism and dexterity. Thanks to our generous host, aka birthday boy, the wine selection was curated exclusively to celebrate the class of 1973 (with a couple of outsiders!)

The class of 1973

The Dom Ruinart Blanc de Blancs was the most expressive of the 3 champagnes from the vintage. It showed biscuity and smokey mature character but retained a great balance, precision and persistence. I would score this 19/20.  The Taittinger Comtes de Champagne showed clarity and elegance but seemed a little subdued. The Krug flaunted nuances of hazelnuts, toast, coffee and caramel, perhaps a touch overly oxidative.

Of the 3 white Bourgogne wines, the DRC Montrachet was the most complete (white) wine of the evening, with layers of complexity, harmony, richness and weight but balanced by a gracefully mature level of energy. The finished lasted incredibly long.  I gave this wine 20/20.  The Meursault Perrières, Leroy was structurally very sound, and showed exceptional crystalline purity.  It still showed incredible citrus character overlaying an age-defying minerality and linearity. There was much less expression of the Meursault character which we were somehow expecting. I scored this 17.5/20. The Musigny Blanc unfortunately suffered from cork taint character.

The Petrus, though served from a magnum, failed to show greatness, class or structure. It was marred by a little too much volatile acidity and caramelised note for my preference. The Vega Sicilia Unico also showed mild level of volatile acidity, but that rather lent to its vibrancy.  It was a well-balanced wine with elegance but it lacked expression and character.

The La Romanée was unfortunately served in a pair together with the beautifully matured Chambertin Clos de Bèze which showed remarkable energy and character, with silky texture. We loved the sous-bois, soya sauce, cardamom and mushroom notes that layered the flavours.  This was one of my top two red wines of the evening.  Very happy to score this 18/20.

Of the three red bottles from DRC, the Romanée-Conti was the hands-down winner.  It had an elegant richness, complexity profile and persistence that the other representatives of the vintage failed to deliver.  On the palate, it was harmonious, wonderfully complex and lingered on the palate. I scored this 19/20.  La Tâche suffered from the same fate as the Musigny Blanc, ie cork taint.  The Romanée St Vivant smelt and tasted quite maderised, with copious level of volatile acidity and a dry finish which suggested it should have been drunk a long while ago. 

The olive brown-hued 1875 Sercial was a great pair with the cheese selection.  The oxidative character of liquorice, roasted nuts, coffee and balsamic worked very well with the aged Comté.

Finally, we finished with a 1949 Suduiraut, which showed an amber hue, with honey, apricot, rye toast notes, a lively acidity that balanced the richness but without the heavy cloying character.  Long finish. I scored this 19/20.

1973 is often a forgotten vintage in vinous speak.  Luckily for us, we have a generous friend who enjoys celebrating his birth year with his friends, giving us the opportunity to taste and re-taste this forgotten but not forsaken vintage.  The top performers from this vintage have remained some of our most memorable wine experiences.  

To our generous host, a big thank you for sharing such memories with us!!

We look forward to returning to this high quality neighbourhood restaurant, with relaxed atmosphere, on our next visit.  In the meantime, we wish Claude and Vanessa an enchanting wedding in France this summer!

Here is our menu and wine selection (with photos of some of the dishes):

1973 Dom Ruinart Blanc de Blancs

1973 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne

1973 Krug

Amuse- bouche

- crystal caviar 魚子醬

- tête de cochon 豬頭皮肉凍

- gazpacho de pastèque 西瓜冷湯

- mousse de foie de volaille 雞肝醬慕絲



Entrée 1:

Hokkaido scallops salad 北海道干貝沙拉

Hokkaido scallop salad

1973 Meursault Perrières 1er Cru, Leroy

1973 Musigny Blanc Grand Cru, de Vogué

1973 Montrachet Grand Cru, DRC


Seafood:

Grilled uni risotto with white asparagus 白蘆筍海膽燉飯

Grilled uni risotto with white asparagus

Fish:

market fish/ lobster/ pineapple mousse 市場鮮魚及薔薇龍蝦



1973 Petrus (en Magnum)

1973 Vega Sicilia Unico



Meat 1: Os à moelle Bordelaise 巴西里烤牛骨髓



Summer truffle and porcini Tagliatelle 松露野菇寛扁麵



1973 La Romanée, Albert Bichot

1973 Chambertin Clos de Bèze, Rousseau


Meat 2: Tealeaves smoked Pigeon/ foie gras/ farm vegetables 茶燻乳鴿/ 茶樹蜜鴨肝/ 時蔬

1973 Romanée St. Vivant, DRC

1973 La Tâche, DRC

1973 Romanée-Conti, DRC



Meat 3: Japanese wagyu ribeye/ sauce bourguignon

鹿兒島黑毛和牛肋眼/ 勃根第牛肉醬汁


Assortiment de fromage: 起司盤

truffled Camembert /crottin de chavignol/ Comté 18months/ Blue cheese/ Brie


1875 Sercial Madeira Reserva, d’Olivera

Desserts: 甜點

grilled fresh peaches/ thym/ dacquoise

So pretty ....and tasty too!

1949 Suduiraut 

Birthday cake: 生日蛋糕

chocolate raspberry birthday cake



Mignardises: 小茶點三式

Seasalt caramel macaron/ madeleine/ pâte de fruits