A spot of white in Chianti - a horizontal tasting of two vintages of white Burgundy (2008 and 2011)

13 Sep 2018: James and Ellen, our friends and hosts at Panzano, very generously opened their cellars and organised a special tasting of white Burgundy wines for the producers of Panzano and us! It was a tasting of two vintages: 2008 and 2011. To accompany the fine wines, they had organised some nibbles catered by Enoteca Baldi (a very good address in town for the best spaghetti with tomato and basil!)

Yinghsien Tan MW ensuring all in order! Giampaolo Motta tempted by the snacks.

Ellen talking to Josephin and Jarkko of Candialle at the back of the room

Under the supervision of "resident" MW, Yinghsien Tan, the wines were organised into four pairs. Despite a difficult growing season, the 2008 whites were to a large extent saved by the drying northerly winds from mid September that produced ripe fruit with minerality and freshness to accompany for the early pickers and opulently rich fruit for the later harvesters.   2011 is generally regarded as an early-drinking vintage with the whites delivering balance and aromatic charm.  As usual, the date of picking was critical for both vintages.

From my conversations around the room, the producers seemed happy to be part of this unusual tasting in Chianti. I spoke to many about the potential for white grape planting in Panzano. Many told me that they did not have the right terroir for white grapes. Some of the producers make a rosé wine to compensate for the lack of white wine. However, there are notable exceptions. For example, we tasted the complex white blend from Castello dei Rampolla, which is an unusual mix of Trebbiano, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Traminer. Imagine pairing with a lovely goat cheese! There is also the Sauvignon Blanc wine from Fontodi, Meriggio, an IGT Colli Toscana Centrale. Giampaolo Motta of La Massa also revealed that he had plans for Chenin Blanc on some of his schist soils. With different exposures, soils and canopy management, it is not inconceivable that the potential for whites can be further explored.

On the terrace, James, Ellen and their guests enjoying our favourite glass (instead of spitting!)

Richard and Johnny Goedhuis 

Laura Goedhuis in deep converation with Giovanni Manetti of Fontodi

Here are my brief tasting notes from the white Burgundy tasting:

First Pair:



2011 Jean-Paul & Benoît Droin, Chablis Montée de Tonnerre

Fleshy but vibrant with a tight mineral core and expressive salinity. The wine still needs some time for the discreet wood to integrate and for the wine to develop further its complexity.  However, the harmony, subtle power and persistence today are already very promising.  To enjoy now and over next 6-8 years.  17.5/20


2011 Billaud-Simon, Chablis Montée de Tonnerre
A very different expression from the Droin version. The focus here is on freshness, purity, and bright green fruit accompanied by floral notes. The delicate balance is achieved with a mineral core throughout the palate. A very classy Chablis Premier Cru.  Already very approachable. To be enjoyed over next 4-5 years. 17.5/20







Second Pair:




2011 J.M. Boillot, Puligny-Montrachet La Garenne
Clean and harmonious. A linear structure. Focus on vibrancy and minerality and less on an overt fruit character.  There was still a hint of reductive character from the bottle I tried. Loved the persistent saline finish, but it could be a little austere for some!16.5/20


2011 Etienne Sauzet, Puligny-Montrachet Champ Gain
A much more aromatically opulent bouquet with ripe yellow fruit, pear, toast and nutty notes. The expression is rich, with a creamy palate and rounded mouthfeel, while retaining sufficient freshness to balance the ripe fruit. A well-measured saline finish. Finishes long. 17/20








Third Pair:



2008 Billaud-Simon, Chablis Montée de Tonnerre
A well-matured Chablis, with a firm structure. Developed bouquet of honey, nougat and stewed pear. Some of us found it very attractive. I thought it would be great with an aged Parmesan. (I suspect there would be some bottle variation amongst the case for this wine.) 16/20


2008 Lucien Le Moine, Chassagne-Montrachet Caillerets
Ambitious winemaking is very evident here.  Opulent bouquet of vanilla, toast, honey and peach. There was still a hint of reductive character. Muscular and rich with a fleshy texture. The presence of crisp acidity kept the wine well balanced, leaving with a persistent finish. 17/20






Fourth Pair:



2008 J.M. Boillot, Puligny-Montrachet Champ Canet
Linear and mineral. A wine of tension and depth showing precise winemaking and well-crafted balance and elegance. A glorious expression of this climat from Puligny. Still very youthful depending on the bottle. Sadly there was much bottle variation amongst the three bottles.  18/20


2008 Lucien Le Moine, Corton Blanc
Very fine and mineral. Linear. Vibrant. Gained complexity and weight in glass to open. Saline finish. Long. Further cellaring time would probably reward a greater appreciation of its full potential. At this moment, I felt that the winemaker's presence rather overwhelmed the appellation's expression. To be approached in the next 3-4 years. 17.5/20





As if we were not enough spoilt by such wonderful spread of fine wines, our hosts dazzled us at dinner with two red Burgundies that went down like a treat: 2002 Clos des Lambrays and 2001 Clos de La Roche, Dujac, the latter in magnum. This was followed by a 1834 Malvasia Madeira by Barbeito, which was extremely vibrant without the weighty richness of Malvasia.  Could there be a more special way to end a very fine day?!