The chef had curated a very thoughtful and daring menu to go with the white wines. We were fascinated by the thought of pairing Château d'Yquem with Wagyu rump steak and a blue cheese fondue.
As we were 10 people, we had two wines instead of just one for each of Curnonsky's famous five.
Château Grillet:
For this monopole appellation of 3.8 hectares based on 100% Viognier, we were served two vintages: 2006 and 2013, ie one pre-Pinault acquisition and one post. Château Grillet has long been a wine of great repute, and has featured in the collection of famous personalities. Thomas Jefferson visited it in 1787 and the inventory of the cellar of Château de Malmaison, residence of Empress Joséphine de Beauharnais, first wife of Napoleon I, featured 296 bottles of this wine in 1814. This property remained in the family of Neyret-Gachet between 1827 and 2011, when it was sold to François Pinault, also owner of Château Latour in Pauillac, Bordeaux and Domaine d'Eugénie in Vosne-Romanée, Bourgogne. The property was awarded the appellation d'origine contrôlée in 1936.
Planted on steep slopes of the Rhone Valley and over 76 terraces supported by stone walls, the vines average 45 years. Detailed vineyard analysis has allowed each lot to be separately vinified, whether in oak or in tank. Ageing in French oak barrels for 18 months, with around 20% new oak.
2013 Château Grillet: by comparison, this wine showed a taut mineral core despite the relatively moderate acidity for the grape variety. The signature pear and apricot note was subtle, underscoring the youthfulness of the wine. I particularly liked saline finish which gave the wine much needed freshness and a point of difference leading to the dry finish. I find it a very much more linear and precise expression of the appellation. It went particularly well with the dish of lightly smoked mackerel with herb mayonnaise. 18/20
Clos de La Coulée de Serrant:
Next we had the Clos de La Coulée de Serrant, a 7-hectare appellation in the Loire Valley, based on 100% Chenin Blanc, exclusively owned by the Joly family. Vines were first planted here in 1130 by the Cistercian monks. Declared the 'golden drop' by King Louis XI, this wine has enjoyed a very long reputation. Planted on steep slopes on thin (20-40 cm) topsoil above a red schist bedrock, the vines are oriented S/SE, with an average age of 30-40 years. The yield is around 20-25 hl/ha, compared to the permitted 40 hl/ha for the appellation. The harvest takes place over a long time allowing the pickers to pick the grapes with the most colour maturity and presence of botrytis. The objective is to allow the grapes to express the most minerality. Aged in 500 litre barrels, with no more than 5% new barrels. The Joly family has been practising biodynamics since 1980 and all the vineyards of the family have been fully biodynamic since 1984.
1996 Nicolas Joly, Clos de La Coulée de Serrant: The wine revealed a deep amber-golden hue. The bouquet showed maturity and complexity of toasted hazelnut, bruised apple, with caramelised notes. There was a marked level of volatile acidity. Depending on the taster's sensitivity, this VA either enhanced complexity or reduced enjoyment but it certainly gave the wine a fresh lift to the palate and finish. 16.5/20
1997 Nicolas Joly, Clos de La Coulée de Serrant: The wine showed a bright golden colour. An attractive bouquet of honey, stewed apple, dried fruit and herbal notes. It was an opulent full-bodied wine, boasting a richness that was deftly balanced by vibrant acidity. There was a chiseled minerality that filled the core of the wine. A wine of understated finesse. Very long finish 18.5/20
The pairing was less obvious for me as the Alaskan King Crab had a lightness to it, whereas the wines were full-bodied, though with heightened acidity. The spiciness of the gazpacho essence was carried off nicely by the very ripe Chenin Blanc fruit though.
Montrachet:
Possibly the finest expression of Chardonnay and a Bourgogne Grand Cru appellation, Montrachet is located across the villages of Puligny and Chassagne. Its greatness owes much to the early study and work carried out by the Cistercian monks and the Lords of Chagny. This Grand Cru appellation covers 7.8 hectares, and is shared by 16 owners.
The dish to accompany below wines was a Sautéed potato gnocchi with charred cévenne onion, cep vinaigrette and shiitake duxelle. It was a very tasty dish but I thought it was a bit too overwhelming for the delicate (non-oxidised) Bourgogne wines.
2004 Comtes Lafon, Montrachet: unfortunately this bottle was heavily oxidised
2004 Ramonet, Montrachet: This was a very classy wine, showing an attractive bouquet of pear, blossom, almond and nougat, with light toast notes. The acidity was bright and the wine showed great energy in a youthful state. There was an impeccable harmony and finesse presented in a most elegant and sophisticated manner, with a core of minerality that gave the wine a very desirable tightness. Very long finish. 20/20
Our host inserted an outlyer to the Montrachets, given the disappointment with the Lafon Montrachet:
2015 Benoît Ente, Puligny-Montrachet Clos de la Truffière
A wine still showing mostly primary and secondary notes. Green apple, lime zest, blossom, almond, with flinty notes. Linear, with racy acidity and a long finish. 17.5/20
Château d'Yquem:
Château d'Yquem needs no introduction as the most famous Sauternes estate, renowned for its extraordinary richness and complexity. Included in the 1885 Bordeaux classification as the only Premier Cru Classé Supérieur in its class of Sauternes/Barsac, it has been owned by the LVMH group since 1999. Located on the highest hill in Sauternes, the estate covers 110 hectares, 80% planted with Sémillon and 20% with Sauvignon Blanc. Now vinified in 100% new oak barrels and aged in barrels for 36 months before release.
Château d'Yquem needs no introduction as the most famous Sauternes estate, renowned for its extraordinary richness and complexity. Included in the 1885 Bordeaux classification as the only Premier Cru Classé Supérieur in its class of Sauternes/Barsac, it has been owned by the LVMH group since 1999. Located on the highest hill in Sauternes, the estate covers 110 hectares, 80% planted with Sémillon and 20% with Sauvignon Blanc. Now vinified in 100% new oak barrels and aged in barrels for 36 months before release.
The chef had ingeniously paired these two wines with a Wagyu rump cap with spinach and onion compote, blue cheese fondue and girolles.
1959 Château d'Yquem: A well-matured wine, showing complexities of orange marmalade, tea leaves, apple toffee shortbread, dried fruits and honey. There was a very positive vibrancy on the palate, reflecting a good level of energy. The hint of VA was a positive developmental addition. Finish was dry but not unpleasant. 18/20
1996 Château d'Yquem: It was a luscious wine with a creamy texture, bolstered by bright acidity. The bouquet had dried apricots, honey and toffee apple. It was not the richest or most complex of vintages but it was elegantly presented in a nice refreshing style. 17/20
Château-Chalon:
Château-Chalon is an appellation for wines made around the village of Château-Chalon in the Jura region. Only wines based on 100% Savagnin in the Vin Jaune style can be made using this appellation. The grapes are late harvested, without botrytis. After vinification, the wine is aged for 6 years and 3 months before bottling in the squat-shaped 62cl clavelins. The wine must be stored in oak casks, partially filled, to allow the development of the voile of yeast, which gives the wine its peculiar characteristics, just like the function of flor in the production of sherry. Only made in the best vintages.
Arbois-Pupillin is an appellation for wines made in the village of Pupillin, just south of Arbois in the Jura region. This appellation covers white, red, rosé wines and Vin Jaune, as well as vin de paille.
1989 Emmanuel Houillon-Pierre Overnoy, Arbois-Pupillin AOC, Vin Jaune, Jura: My first experience of this wine by the legendary Pierre Overnoy. It was in the year 1989 when he delegated the winemaking duties to Emmanuel Houillon. This was a deep amber colour, showing notes of white chocolate, nuts and balsamic, with a prominent saline character. VA is marked here but it is an additional positive to the appreciation of the wine. Finishes extremely long. 19/20
2005 Domaine Jean Macle, Château-Chalon AOC, Vin Jaune, Jura: This was a golden colour. Marked notes of saline, sea salt, yeast with nuances like curry/cardamom. Excellent with the aged Comté cheese. Long finish. 18/20
Towards the end of the evening, our host asked all of us to think of our own choices of top five white wines, from anywhere in the world. It was interesting how we all gravitated towards France. While Montrachet, Château d'Yquem and Pierre Overnoy's Vin Jaune would still feature for some of us, there were suggestions of Haut Brion Blanc, Raveneau Chablis Les Clos or Chablis Montée de Tonnerre, Krug Clos du Mesnil, Trimbach Clos Sainte Hune, Egon Müller Scharzhofberger Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese, and an ageless Madeira Malvasia or Bual. The question remains unanswered is when we get together to do the 'new' classification tasting?!
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