Festive Highlights 2016: 1959 La Mission Haut Brion and a 1969 Remoissenet Les Suchots plus others

December 2016: We saw off 2016 with the usual spread of highs and disappointments. Here were the bottles:

​1959 La Mission Haut Brion: A magnificent and utterly enticing bouquet of tobacco, leather and graphite. Velvety texture on the palate, with an admirable liveliness enhanced by a hint of volatile acidity. A rich and opulent classic Graves with layers of complexity, showing at its prime, with just a touch of dry sensation towards the finish. A wine to be enjoyed now and over next 5 years. 18.5/20

2013 Meursault Clos des Bouchères, Roulot: Very closed nose and very tight on the palate. Notes of citrus, lime, toast and a hint of vanilla. This is not ready yet. I would wait another 3- 5 years! 17+/20

1997 Clos de Vougeot, Leroy: Sadly corked and the whole bottle went into the Boeuf Bourguignon on 29th December. (Please refer to earlier blog "20 Vintages of Leroy Clos de Vougeot")

1969 Vosne-Romanée Les Suchots, Remoissenet: This came to the rescue after the corked bottle of 1997 Leroy Clos de Vougeot. A bouquet redolent of stewed black berries, leather, mushroom, damp forest floor. The wine still displayed plenty of energy, with the expected hint of volatile acidity for a wine of this age. Harmonious. Beautifully integrated. Silky mouthfeel. A wine that totally surpassed expectation! 17.5/20

A visitor at the table with the splendid Remoissenet Les Suchots

1966 Haut Brion: The cork looked unusually new.  Although it showed some degree complexity, it did not display the brilliance nor the depth or excitment which this wine has shown in past experience.  15/20

2002 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St Jacques, Fourrier:  Unfortunately, this was corked too!  But Richard soldiered on......and left some to join the Boeuf Bourguignon pot.

1997 Vosne-Romanée Les Genaivrières, Leroy: A village appellation, at almost 20 years old. This delivered very fine elegance behind the tertiary flavours that testified to the domaine's excellence, and a structure that held the wine together in a most admirable manner for a wine of this age, and of this quality level. Bravo. 16.5/20


1999 Pommard Clos des Epeneaux, Comte Armand (magnum): There was a beautiful ruby hue. On the nose, it was pure red fruit, raspberry, cherry stone, sous bois, leather with some earthy notes. Vigorous, balanced, elegantly opulent, seamlessly integrated, with lengthy finish. There was none of the harshness or tightness that we sometimes expect of vintage 1999. A great example of Pommard at its best!  18/20

(On the same evening, we also opened a 1999 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Caillerets, JN Gagnard and a 1999 Corton Clos des Cortons, Faiveley.  The Chassagne was nicely matured but it did not show any of the nasty aldehydic oxidative notes.  I fear we did not spend enough time appreciating the Corton - but from what I tasted, it had all the makings of a great wine, but it was still quite closed and required more aeration time or just time!)