1982 vs 1983 Margaux

26 January 2017: Despite the dropping out of our guest of honour who would have given special meaning to this dinner, a smaller group of us sat down for a cosy dinner and the comparison of two vintages of Château Margaux: 1982 vs 1983. 1982 was the great Bordeaux vintage and 1983 was the first vintage made by the late Paul Pontallier who had just arrived at the Château as the new régisseur in time for the vintage. In our small way, we paid homage to a great man who dedicated his life to a single estate. Not many of us could say that our professional work was our passion, but there was no question that Château Margaux was Paul Pontallier's passion.

We toasted with a glass of Krug Rosé. A very fine and elegant wine, with creamy mousse that delivered layers of brioche, toast and red fruit balanced by a savoury note, around the palate, ending with a beautiful crisp finish. This is a very classy rosé, without that sweet and overtly fruity character I sometimes find in some of the grande marque rosé champagne. Yes, pricey for a Non-Vintage champagne, but I guess the occasion justified it!

Our friend brought us a surprise wine to try - the surprise was how well it aged, how remarkably fresh it tasted, and the quality that seemed to surpass its appellation.  (We had all guessed it was a Grand Cru level wine!)

1989 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Vergers, Michel Niellon: There was not a hint of amber in the colour. The bouquet was smokey, nutty, vanilla, with notes of tinned corn, ginger, cardamom and hazelnut. The still fresh acidity beautifully balanced the slightly creamy rich texture. It finished long.  This went very well with our crushed avocado and pan-seared prawns. 18/20

1982 Château Margaux: A very attractive nose immediately welcomed us upon opening. There as an overt floral character underneath the mature notes of coffee, leather and cigar box. On the palate, there was a silky texture lifted by a freshness that gave the wine energy. A hint of volatile acidity was detected but it probably helped enhance that freshness. We all agreed that this was the more feminine style between the two vintages, and in some ways a more faithful representation of the qualities we typically expect to find in the wine Margaux. There is no hurry to drink this up, but then it's drinking so perfectly now that I would be inclined to recommend drinking within the next 5 - 6 years. 17.5/20 

I quote the vintage notes from the book on Château Margaux by Nicolas Faith, 2005 edition. "1982: It is extremely rare for such conditions to come together; a dry and hot April, a slightly stormy June, and a very hot summer, especially the first two weeks of September, which allowed the grapes to ripen remarkably.  Exceptional weather right up to the harvest.....A peerless vintage in terms of quantity and quality. The exceptional ripeness of the grapes occasioned very concentrated but nevertheless tender wines, with a very complex, rich and fruity aroma.  It begins to make delicious drinking."


1983 Château Margaux: This was on the contrary quite closed when first opened. It needed aeration in the glass to shake off the initial musky and earthy notes to reveal layers of ripe blue and black fruit, cigar box, sweet tobacco and leather.  The body was much more luscious, still showing some firmness of tannin, in the robust structure.  This was superior in terms of complexity, ripeness, richness and aftertaste, and it seemed to embrace a more hedonistic and powerful style.  Based on this bottle, I would give this wine a longer drinking window....but why wait???  It paired perfectly with our Bourguignon beef stew!  19/20

Nicolas Faith in his book wrote: "1983: Following a very rainy spring, June was hot and dry, thus creating excellent conditions for flowering.  The summer was hot and wet - almost tropical - and therefore problematic for plant health.  Once again, a splendidly hot, dry, and sunny late season encouraged remarkable ripeness for an abundant year.....A very great wine that certain tasters prefer to its predecessor, 1983 is certainly one of the most classic Margaux of the last twenty years.  The bouquet has developed well and become rich, complex and mature.  On the palate, it remains of impressive power, with tannins that are still firm but not hard."

There was high hope in the half bottle of 1953 Château Margaux that we opened to end the evening.  The half bottle would have seen better days probably 15 years ago.  Unfortunately, the volatile acidity caught up rather quickly in the glass.  1953 was one of the Châteaux's greatest vintages.  It would be interesting to see how a 750 ml bottle performs now.

We look forward to trying the 1947 Château Margaux in magnum that we promised a dear friend in celebration of his 70th birthday in a few days' time when only friends who contribute bottles from 1947 vintage are invited!  We expect there to be a room full of friends.  We should celebrate too the generous spirit of wine lovers!