2002 Vintage: A Year to Remember

29 January 2017: The vintage to celebrate was 2002. It was the year we established a number of friendships. It was the year a lovely young lady was born. It was a great vintage in Champagne and Bourgogne!

2002 ​Bollinger RD: It was probably the most closed prestige cuvée champagne from this vintage that we had tried (and it would be given its late disgorgement). There were notes of mushroom and brioche but the structure was very tight. Very promising for a few years down the road!

2002 Comtes Lafon Meursault-Charmes: compared to the next wine, this showed a precise structure, taut with minerality and finesse, lithe and elegant. Notes of citrus and apple. A beautiful wine.

2002 Leflaive Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet: this was quite advanced in terms of maturity, opulent and sumptuous, with well-integrated oak elements. The palate was rich, with pear and vanilla notes, ready to please but lacked the subtlety and finesse of the previous wine. 

2002 Armand Rousseau Chambertin: a wine with firm robust structure, nuances of sous-bois and violet but could do with more fruit notes. Acidity seemed slightly lower than the next wine. A great wine, but stylistically, a bit four-square.

2002 Armand Rousseau Chambertin Clos de Bèze: this was wine of the evening for me. A very complete wine, harmonious in every sense, with balanced acidity, rich textured fruit quality, and velvety tannins, starting to show some tertiary notes. A very fine wine, and a wine for the next 15 - 20 years! This would be a 19.5/20 wine for me!

2002 Leroy Corton-Renardes: A lush full-bodied Corton, with the signature Leroy aromatic profile and silky texture. Truffle and violet. Divine on the nose, gorgeous on the palate.

2002 Robert Arnoux Echezeaux: this was an elegant rendition of Echezeaux but the body seemed light against the Corton, and the finish was a little dry, lacking in fruit.  For drinking now!

Our generous hosts added a couple more bottles to satisfy the still thirsty guests:

1978 Remoissenet Chambertin: there was a bit too much volatile acidity for me

1964 Remoissenet Grands Echezeaux: interestingly this didn't quite taste like a typical Bourgogne wine.......but it had a sweet fruit quality to the palate, and an animal/savoury note.

1983 Cockburn's Vintage Port: alas, this was marred by a mild cork taint

And we washed all this down accompanied by a banquet of festive dishes generously prepared by our hosts and other guests: Patrick's spring-onion pancake, spicy carrot soup, Patrice's trio of dumplings, scallops in black bean sauce, minced smoked chicken on lettuce leaves, long beans with minced pork, roasted pork neck, spicy spare-ribs, Shanghainese Lion's Head meatballs (my modest contribution), Patrick's spring onion noodles and Eric's family heritage mousse au chocolat!  Enough protein to keep me going for days!!

2009 Les Climats du Coeur

17 January 2017:  We finally decided to crack open this beautiful case of 2009 Les Climats du Coeur. (I said 'we' but it was really Richard's birthday present!) A unique team of 8 top Burgundian producers got together for a charitable project in 2009.  Thanks to the bountiful and ripe vintage of 2009, a number of growers generously donated Premier Cru grapes from 4 communes, that were then vinified into wine, aged and bottled by this team of 8. Altogether 1,000 cases of 4 magnums were sold at EUR 1,200 per case, with the proceeds going to various charities in Burgundy.

The 4 magnums were:

Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru:
Vinification and élevage by Domaine Dujac and Maison Faiveley
Grapes donated by: Maison Faiveley, Domaine Dujac, Domaine Dupont-Tisserandot, Domaine Bruno Clair, Domaine Rebourseau, Domaine Geantet-Pansiot, Domaine Drouhin-Laroze and Domaine Rossignol-Trapet

Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru: 
Vinification and élevage by Domaine de la Romanée Conti and Maison Joseph Drouhin
Grapes provided by: Maison Joseph Drouhin, Domaine de la Romanée Conti, Domaine Méo-Camuzet, Domaine Michel Gros, Domaine Comte Liger-Belair, Domaine Robert Arnoux, Domaine Lamarche, Domaine Prieuré-Roch, Domaine Grivot, Domaine Confuron-Cotetidot and Domaine Bernard Gros

Meursault Premier Cru:
Vinification and élevage by Domaine Roulot and Maison Louis Latour
Grapes provided by: Maison Louis Latour, Domaine Roulot, Domaine des Comtes Lafon, Maison Deux Montille Sœur Frère, Maison Albert Bichot, Maison Bouchard Père et Fils, Maison Olivier Leflaive, Domaine Albert Grivault and Domaine Bitouzet Prieur


Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru: 
Vinification and élevage by Domaine Leflaive and Maison Louis Jadot
Grapes provided by: Maison Louis Jadot, Domaine Leflaive, Domaine Henri Boillot, Domaine Sauzet, Domaine Duc de Magenta, Château de Puligny, Domaine Chartron and Domaine Pernot

The first magnum we tried was the Meursault Premier Cru. The quality of the vintage allowed these grapes an early harvest during the first two weeks of September, according to the website's vintage report.   I would describe it at the prime of its drinking window: golden yellow robe, rich and ripe fruit from the vintage, but balanced with a good level of acidity, well-developed for enjoyment now. It's a wine made from quality grapes but given the richness of the vintage, it didn't feel wrong to open it! 

Amongst distinguished company in the evening
- the half bottle of 1990 Bonneau du Martray Corton-Charlemagne was a highlight!

It would seem logical to try the Puligny Premier Cru next!  

Les Climats du Coeur was such a wonderful idea!  Love to support it again!

1982 vs 1983 Margaux

26 January 2017: Despite the dropping out of our guest of honour who would have given special meaning to this dinner, a smaller group of us sat down for a cosy dinner and the comparison of two vintages of Château Margaux: 1982 vs 1983. 1982 was the great Bordeaux vintage and 1983 was the first vintage made by the late Paul Pontallier who had just arrived at the Château as the new régisseur in time for the vintage. In our small way, we paid homage to a great man who dedicated his life to a single estate. Not many of us could say that our professional work was our passion, but there was no question that Château Margaux was Paul Pontallier's passion.

We toasted with a glass of Krug Rosé. A very fine and elegant wine, with creamy mousse that delivered layers of brioche, toast and red fruit balanced by a savoury note, around the palate, ending with a beautiful crisp finish. This is a very classy rosé, without that sweet and overtly fruity character I sometimes find in some of the grande marque rosé champagne. Yes, pricey for a Non-Vintage champagne, but I guess the occasion justified it!

Our friend brought us a surprise wine to try - the surprise was how well it aged, how remarkably fresh it tasted, and the quality that seemed to surpass its appellation.  (We had all guessed it was a Grand Cru level wine!)

1989 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Vergers, Michel Niellon: There was not a hint of amber in the colour. The bouquet was smokey, nutty, vanilla, with notes of tinned corn, ginger, cardamom and hazelnut. The still fresh acidity beautifully balanced the slightly creamy rich texture. It finished long.  This went very well with our crushed avocado and pan-seared prawns. 18/20

1982 Château Margaux: A very attractive nose immediately welcomed us upon opening. There as an overt floral character underneath the mature notes of coffee, leather and cigar box. On the palate, there was a silky texture lifted by a freshness that gave the wine energy. A hint of volatile acidity was detected but it probably helped enhance that freshness. We all agreed that this was the more feminine style between the two vintages, and in some ways a more faithful representation of the qualities we typically expect to find in the wine Margaux. There is no hurry to drink this up, but then it's drinking so perfectly now that I would be inclined to recommend drinking within the next 5 - 6 years. 17.5/20 

I quote the vintage notes from the book on Château Margaux by Nicolas Faith, 2005 edition. "1982: It is extremely rare for such conditions to come together; a dry and hot April, a slightly stormy June, and a very hot summer, especially the first two weeks of September, which allowed the grapes to ripen remarkably.  Exceptional weather right up to the harvest.....A peerless vintage in terms of quantity and quality. The exceptional ripeness of the grapes occasioned very concentrated but nevertheless tender wines, with a very complex, rich and fruity aroma.  It begins to make delicious drinking."


1983 Château Margaux: This was on the contrary quite closed when first opened. It needed aeration in the glass to shake off the initial musky and earthy notes to reveal layers of ripe blue and black fruit, cigar box, sweet tobacco and leather.  The body was much more luscious, still showing some firmness of tannin, in the robust structure.  This was superior in terms of complexity, ripeness, richness and aftertaste, and it seemed to embrace a more hedonistic and powerful style.  Based on this bottle, I would give this wine a longer drinking window....but why wait???  It paired perfectly with our Bourguignon beef stew!  19/20

Nicolas Faith in his book wrote: "1983: Following a very rainy spring, June was hot and dry, thus creating excellent conditions for flowering.  The summer was hot and wet - almost tropical - and therefore problematic for plant health.  Once again, a splendidly hot, dry, and sunny late season encouraged remarkable ripeness for an abundant year.....A very great wine that certain tasters prefer to its predecessor, 1983 is certainly one of the most classic Margaux of the last twenty years.  The bouquet has developed well and become rich, complex and mature.  On the palate, it remains of impressive power, with tannins that are still firm but not hard."

There was high hope in the half bottle of 1953 Château Margaux that we opened to end the evening.  The half bottle would have seen better days probably 15 years ago.  Unfortunately, the volatile acidity caught up rather quickly in the glass.  1953 was one of the Châteaux's greatest vintages.  It would be interesting to see how a 750 ml bottle performs now.

We look forward to trying the 1947 Château Margaux in magnum that we promised a dear friend in celebration of his 70th birthday in a few days' time when only friends who contribute bottles from 1947 vintage are invited!  We expect there to be a room full of friends.  We should celebrate too the generous spirit of wine lovers!  

Festive Highlights 2016: 1959 La Mission Haut Brion and a 1969 Remoissenet Les Suchots plus others

December 2016: We saw off 2016 with the usual spread of highs and disappointments. Here were the bottles:

​1959 La Mission Haut Brion: A magnificent and utterly enticing bouquet of tobacco, leather and graphite. Velvety texture on the palate, with an admirable liveliness enhanced by a hint of volatile acidity. A rich and opulent classic Graves with layers of complexity, showing at its prime, with just a touch of dry sensation towards the finish. A wine to be enjoyed now and over next 5 years. 18.5/20

2013 Meursault Clos des Bouchères, Roulot: Very closed nose and very tight on the palate. Notes of citrus, lime, toast and a hint of vanilla. This is not ready yet. I would wait another 3- 5 years! 17+/20

1997 Clos de Vougeot, Leroy: Sadly corked and the whole bottle went into the Boeuf Bourguignon on 29th December. (Please refer to earlier blog "20 Vintages of Leroy Clos de Vougeot")

1969 Vosne-Romanée Les Suchots, Remoissenet: This came to the rescue after the corked bottle of 1997 Leroy Clos de Vougeot. A bouquet redolent of stewed black berries, leather, mushroom, damp forest floor. The wine still displayed plenty of energy, with the expected hint of volatile acidity for a wine of this age. Harmonious. Beautifully integrated. Silky mouthfeel. A wine that totally surpassed expectation! 17.5/20

A visitor at the table with the splendid Remoissenet Les Suchots

1966 Haut Brion: The cork looked unusually new.  Although it showed some degree complexity, it did not display the brilliance nor the depth or excitment which this wine has shown in past experience.  15/20

2002 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St Jacques, Fourrier:  Unfortunately, this was corked too!  But Richard soldiered on......and left some to join the Boeuf Bourguignon pot.

1997 Vosne-Romanée Les Genaivrières, Leroy: A village appellation, at almost 20 years old. This delivered very fine elegance behind the tertiary flavours that testified to the domaine's excellence, and a structure that held the wine together in a most admirable manner for a wine of this age, and of this quality level. Bravo. 16.5/20


1999 Pommard Clos des Epeneaux, Comte Armand (magnum): There was a beautiful ruby hue. On the nose, it was pure red fruit, raspberry, cherry stone, sous bois, leather with some earthy notes. Vigorous, balanced, elegantly opulent, seamlessly integrated, with lengthy finish. There was none of the harshness or tightness that we sometimes expect of vintage 1999. A great example of Pommard at its best!  18/20

(On the same evening, we also opened a 1999 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Caillerets, JN Gagnard and a 1999 Corton Clos des Cortons, Faiveley.  The Chassagne was nicely matured but it did not show any of the nasty aldehydic oxidative notes.  I fear we did not spend enough time appreciating the Corton - but from what I tasted, it had all the makings of a great wine, but it was still quite closed and required more aeration time or just time!)

20 vintages of Leroy Clos de Vougeot

Tasters at work around 20 bottles of Clos de Vougeot

November 2016: It was a tasting of 20 vintages of Leroy Clos de Vougeot that took place at our dear friends' farmhouse after the superlative weekend of Les Trois Glorieuses in typical Bourgogne style. I had taken a while to write this up, as I was afraid that some of my comments might reflect an inadequacy in describing the wines and might even suggest that some of the wines were less than exceptional.

Domaine Leroy's Clos de Vougeot is a blend that could come from 3 separate parcels totalling an area of just over 1.9 hectares. One of the parcels is situated at the top of the Clos, between 255 and 260 metres above sea level, at the northern end, east-facing, with thin topsoil over Bajocian limestone, adjacent to the parcels owned by Méo-Camuzet and Gros Frère et Soeur. Another parcel is between mid and lower slope of the Clos, between 250 and 240 metres above sea level, with more presence of clay. The most notable neighbour here is the parcel owned by Henri Rebourseau, but other neighbours include Philippe Charlopin-Parizot and de la Vougeraie. The third and smallest strip is more towards lower slope at the southern end, with deeper alluvial on marlstone, joining neighbours with Coquard-Loison-Fleurot and Gérard Raphet. 

On the rare occasions when I was able to appreciate the esoteric wines by the venerable Madame Bize-Leroy, I had always been impressed by a timeless sublime elegance and restrained power that crafted such distinguished wines, irrespective of appellations. A number of the bottles in this line-up were purchased upon release, while others were purchased at recent auctions (to fill in the gaps to make this tasting possible!).

Some people chose to start from young to old, while others would go about it in the reverse order. I had decided to go from old to young.  Here are my brief notes:

Vintages 1976 to 1999

​
1976: The bottle had succumbed to volatile acidity. There was hardly any trace of fruit character. Despite the fragile structure, it still retained a certain poise about it and made an interesting post-dinner sip.

1981: This was a beautifully aged example from the domaine. Seamlessly integrated, with a balanced and elegant structure. A very 'altogether' wine!

1989: It was a very enticing waft of tertiary aromas. On the palate, vibrant acidity and complex layers, still boasting a generous showing of fruit character, with silky texture. This was a winner!

1990: There was a less appealing note of burnt sugar/caramelised fruit. The acidity was less than adequate to make this a mouthwatering example.

1992: This was my pick for the best surprise of the tasting.  Well-knit, with bright acidity and lashings of ripe fruit. The finish was long and balanced, leaving the impression of a harmonious wine, totally unpretentious.  A superb example.

1995: Characters of mushroom and earthy notes. A muscular wine, still showing firm tannins that may have just started to yield.  Difficult to tell how this wine would develop but there seemed not sufficient complexity/generosity to support significant upside development.

1996: More developed bouquet, more redolent of truffle.  There was more acidity than the 1995.  I found it slightly better balanced than the 1995, but both bottles would fall short of excellence.

1997: There was an initial whiff of volatile acidity. After this subsided for me, it revealed a wine of graceful elegance, with some resemblance to a well-aged Musigny, if short of the persistence and power were it to be a product of the top houses.  It was generally regarded as a wine at its pinnacle by the tasters present and drinking very well now.  I was keen to try this at home again.  We expectantly opened it on Christmas Day, only to find that it was corked. So the entire bottle made it into the Boeuf Bourguignon on 29th December.  Richard said that was the best Boeuf Bourguignon I had attempted!   (Incidentally, we recently opened a 1997 Leroy Vosne-Romanée Les Genaivrières to keep up the festive spirits and it still retained its elegance, though much weakened in structure, despite it being a village appellation. A perfect accompaniment with Richard's thyme-infused slow-cooked duck breast!)

1998: I detected a whiff or two of brettanomyces. The palate seemed rather dull, lacking in fruit character. Perhaps this deserves a revisit at some point.  Richard's note was more favourable towards this bottle.

1999: A very tight example of the vintage.  One could sense the brilliant and perfect structure underneath, but it was simply relentless at this tasting, determined to endow little pleasure to its eager admirers. 

2000: Moderate acidity.  Perfect for drinking now. Ripe fruit but it lacked excitement.

2001: This was a gorgeous presentation of Clos de Vougeot. Very well-assembled, complete with bright acidity and velvety tannins and fleshy layers of ripe fruit and developing nuances.

2002:  There was a hint of brettamoyces in this bottle. However, this did not detract from the enjoyment of the fleshy, ripe fruit, vibrant acidity while the firm tannins could do with more time to soften. A very stylish Clos de Vougeot.

2005: Again, a hint of brettanomyces. As expected, a muscular Clos de Vougeot, but exceptional quality of tannins and a depth of complexities waiting to reveal themselves. A very distinguished wine.  

2006: There was more than a nuance of brettanomyces for me to enjoy this.  Need to revisit.

2008: The nose was reductive, with savoury and meaty nuances, as well as still eminent toasty and smokey notes. Beautiful balance. Long finish. A very classy wine.

2009: I did not find this so memorable. The marriage with ripe fruit did not seem a harmonious one, though the acidity was admirable for the vintage.

2010: The nose was quite reductive. Tannins were still to be integrated. Oak notes of smoke and toast were still dominant. This would take some years to become better integrated.

2011: This seemed much more overt than 2010, but did not have the structure of 2010.  A lovely wine but not a long runner.

2013: The nose was still very primary. Very admirable structure. A suave example of Clos de Vougeot. 

It would be a good idea to revisit some of the bottles again, in particular the 1998, 2006, 2008 and 2009. My top picks from this tasting would be 1981, 1989, 1992, followed by 1997 , 2001 and 2002, and from the younger vintages, 2005 and 2013.

My overall impression was that while I identified some very fine wines, I did not find any great wines. The hallmark of the winemaker was evident in all the bottles but some of the bottles lacked that inspired excitement associated with a substantial price tag and a prestigious label. Perhaps that could be attributed to the inevitable bottle variation!

20 vintages of Leroy Clos de Vougeot