We started with a 2002 Dom Perignon: Persistent fine bubbles. Toast, apple, almond notes. Light-bodied. Fine tension and mineral backbone but very restrained palate at this stage. Not as exciting as expected, when compared to recent tastings of more opulent 2002 Cristal and 2002 Krug. Perhaps it's in a shutdown phase?? 16(+?)/20
[I just located my tasting note on 2002 Krug which was tasted on 8 February. A complex bouquet of toast, caramelised hazelnut, ripe apple, at the front, followed by chalky, savoury and yeasty notes mid-palate and towards the finish. Vibrant acidity, mouthfilling texture and layers of complexity coating the mouth. Persistent fine bubbles. Nicely evolved, voluptuous and mouthcoating. 17.5/20]
[I just located my tasting note on 2002 Krug which was tasted on 8 February. A complex bouquet of toast, caramelised hazelnut, ripe apple, at the front, followed by chalky, savoury and yeasty notes mid-palate and towards the finish. Vibrant acidity, mouthfilling texture and layers of complexity coating the mouth. Persistent fine bubbles. Nicely evolved, voluptuous and mouthcoating. 17.5/20]
2004 Fontaine-Gagnard, Criots-Batard-Montrachet (magnum): Pale golden robe. Nuances of cardamom, roasted hazelnut, vanilla, shortbread, ginger, with ripe baked apple and tinned pineapple. Lively but not crisp acidity. Mouthfilling texture. Long finish. This paired very well with the slight spiciness of the starter of 口水鸡! 16/20
1989 Armand Rousseau Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St Jacques (magnum): Garnet robe. Notes of sous-bois, mushroom, slightly acetic. Silky texture, freshness from acetic was uplifting and did not detract from the enjoyment. An elegant 'old boot'. For me, I would have preferred this a few years ago. 16.5/20
1990 Armand Rousseau Gevrey-Chambertin Clos St Jacques (magnum): Ruby-garnet. A complete change from the 1989. Rich, velvety texture, supported by bright acidity. Gorgeously matured, still with plum, mushroom, and spicy notes, very long finish. Drink now and over next 4 - 5 years if well cellared. We opened a 750 ml format after this and I found that had a drying finish and the fruit was lacking. 18/20
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