For our simple home cooking, we started off with 1996 Pol Roger, Chardonnay Brut, Extra Cuvée de Réserve, Chardonnay Brut. It showed beautiful balance and poise, with mature notes of ripe pear and rounded mouthfeel, delineated with minerality throughout the palate. Persistent mousse and long finish. Wine of the evening for Richard.
1996 Chevalier-Montrachet, Leflaive (magnum). Pale gold robe. Gorgeous bouquet of ginger spice and nuts. Initially, racy and tight mid-palate, with great poise. The mid-palate somewhat fell away for me just over an hour after opening, and the finish tended towards the shortish end. It didn't retain the same lift and excitement that it showed initially. Still a fabulous drop and it's our last magnum! (17/20)
We paired this with the peaty smoked salmon from the Hebridean Smokehouse (http://www.hebrideansmokehouse.com/) (and thank you Paul!). It's very addictive if you like the peaty nuance. One pack was enough to last 2 dinner parties! I served it with Laphroig 18 years last time - divine!
1949 Clos-Vougeot, Château de La Tour. Our guests brought this to share with us (and we duly raised a glass to Joe for its provenance!). Elegant, silky texture. Nuances of mushroom and earth. Slightly acetic on the nose and aftertaste for me (I think other fellow guests found the acetic acid enhanced their enjoyment). Still showing very well for its age. A fine well-aged Bourgogne. I would have preferred it a few years ago.(16/20)
1989 Haut Brion (magnum). A classic claret, with hallmark nuances of graphite, tobacco leaf, cedar, cigar box and a hint of herbal (mint-like)/spicy note, layering the mid-weight palate. Not an opulent wine by any measure, rather it impresses by its balance, harmony, vibrancy and particular freshness in the magnum format, with an invigorating lift with every taste. This showed more freshness than the 1990 and more acidity too. Really delicious and no sign of slowing down. Will continue to mature for the next 15 - 20 years in this format. For me, it was the wine of the evening, even though with its 100 RP points, at market rate of GBP 1,100 per bottle (750 ml) (Wine Searcher), it is almost 3 times the price of the 1990 Haut Brion. Ouch! (20/20)
1990 Haut Brion (magnum). A totally different style altogether. As the 1989 was classic, the 1990 was hedonistic and boasted notes of chocolate, baked blackberry, cigar and liquorice, filling the layers in a rich and mouthfilling palate. For me, I preferred the 1989 for its poise, freshness, backbone, lift and persistence. A gorgeous and irresistible wine for those who like this opulent style. With just 2 RP points below the 1989, its market rate is GBP 400 per bottle (750 ml) - bargain?? The colour of the wine didn't have the same limpidity as the 1989 when I first opened it. Should drink well for the next 8 - 12 years, in this format. (18/20)
1988 Doisy-Daëne. It was a well-made Sauternes, showed balance and crisp acidity but lacked depth and character. Quite one-dimensional in character. (15/20)
1949 Clos-Vougeot, Château de La Tour. Our guests brought this to share with us (and we duly raised a glass to Joe for its provenance!). Elegant, silky texture. Nuances of mushroom and earth. Slightly acetic on the nose and aftertaste for me (I think other fellow guests found the acetic acid enhanced their enjoyment). Still showing very well for its age. A fine well-aged Bourgogne. I would have preferred it a few years ago.(16/20)
1989 Haut Brion (magnum). A classic claret, with hallmark nuances of graphite, tobacco leaf, cedar, cigar box and a hint of herbal (mint-like)/spicy note, layering the mid-weight palate. Not an opulent wine by any measure, rather it impresses by its balance, harmony, vibrancy and particular freshness in the magnum format, with an invigorating lift with every taste. This showed more freshness than the 1990 and more acidity too. Really delicious and no sign of slowing down. Will continue to mature for the next 15 - 20 years in this format. For me, it was the wine of the evening, even though with its 100 RP points, at market rate of GBP 1,100 per bottle (750 ml) (Wine Searcher), it is almost 3 times the price of the 1990 Haut Brion. Ouch! (20/20)
1990 Haut Brion (magnum). A totally different style altogether. As the 1989 was classic, the 1990 was hedonistic and boasted notes of chocolate, baked blackberry, cigar and liquorice, filling the layers in a rich and mouthfilling palate. For me, I preferred the 1989 for its poise, freshness, backbone, lift and persistence. A gorgeous and irresistible wine for those who like this opulent style. With just 2 RP points below the 1989, its market rate is GBP 400 per bottle (750 ml) - bargain?? The colour of the wine didn't have the same limpidity as the 1989 when I first opened it. Should drink well for the next 8 - 12 years, in this format. (18/20)
1988 Doisy-Daëne. It was a well-made Sauternes, showed balance and crisp acidity but lacked depth and character. Quite one-dimensional in character. (15/20)
Large formats are simply perfect for dinner parties.......and we have a few more this weekend! Our third Saturday dinner in a row!
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