We started with a 2001 Montrachet, Bouchard. This wine is still amazingly primary - it has hardly evolved, quite a nice change from the premature oxidation that we have been so used to. The nose was citrus, green apple, with some floral, toasty and nutty notes. Very precise winemaking here. Finishes long, saline and almost chalky. 18/20
The first wine was unfortunately corked - a 2000 Cathiard Reignots. So we began with the 1999 Bichot Malconsorts. A lovely Vosne nose of raspberry, cherry, nutmeg, earthy and underbrush. The wine slowly took on a little more weight in the glass, and showed great freshness still but it remained lacking in concentration, quite lean. Dryness on the finish. A lightweight effort for a vintage known for heftier structures. Drink now and over next 4 - 5+ years. 16/20
The next wine was 1999 Cathiard Suchots - this was the star of the line-up this evening. Dark fruit, black cherry and blackberry compote, coffee bean, spicy, with some herbal notes. Some sappy character initially on the palate. Firm backbone of lively acidity, combined with well-integrated tannin and ripe fruit and intense flavours, culminating into a voluptuous mouthfeel, and a lingering finish. Very fine and very seductive. Loved it! Drink now and over next 6 - 8 years. 18/20
The 2003 Cathiard Malconsorts that followed was expressive of the hot vintage - over-ripe plum and black cherry, dried fruit, fruitcake, and chocolate notes. Fleshy and flamboyant, well balanced, very ripe tannin and the rich fruit material filling out the voluptuous texture, with some minerality showing through the lowish acidity. Probably better with food. Drink now and over next 6 - 8+ years? It will be interesting to see how this wine evolves......17/20
The 2004 Cathiard Malconsorts was also expressive of the vintage: redcurrant, resin-like, herbal tea, with a sappy feel on the palate. Tasting this immediately after the 2003, this wine seemed lacking in generosity in the mouthfeel and finish. A little astringent on the finish. Acidity seemed a little on the low side. Drink now. 16.5/20
2004 Perrot-Minot Les Beaux Monts was very interesting. Quite muscular and angular initially. Time in the glass opened up the wine. The oak was still evident but it married well with the intense character of the flavours. Good concentration for the vintage. This may not be the most elegant Beaux Monts but it was a worthy effort for the vintage, avoiding the green and resiny character. Drink now, with aeration, and over next 6 - 8 years. 17.5/20
We finished with 2002 Potel Gaudichots. Still quite closed on the palate, even after 2 hours of decanting. A little lean at the moment but pure cherry fruit with lovely Vosne spice, followed by a mineral-driven palate. Not a big and muscular wine, but there was depth and a very pure Vosne core about it. A fine effort. I would probably go back to try this again in 2 - 3 years time to see if it eventually opens up. 17/20
The next wine was 1999 Cathiard Suchots - this was the star of the line-up this evening. Dark fruit, black cherry and blackberry compote, coffee bean, spicy, with some herbal notes. Some sappy character initially on the palate. Firm backbone of lively acidity, combined with well-integrated tannin and ripe fruit and intense flavours, culminating into a voluptuous mouthfeel, and a lingering finish. Very fine and very seductive. Loved it! Drink now and over next 6 - 8 years. 18/20
The 2003 Cathiard Malconsorts that followed was expressive of the hot vintage - over-ripe plum and black cherry, dried fruit, fruitcake, and chocolate notes. Fleshy and flamboyant, well balanced, very ripe tannin and the rich fruit material filling out the voluptuous texture, with some minerality showing through the lowish acidity. Probably better with food. Drink now and over next 6 - 8+ years? It will be interesting to see how this wine evolves......17/20
The 2004 Cathiard Malconsorts was also expressive of the vintage: redcurrant, resin-like, herbal tea, with a sappy feel on the palate. Tasting this immediately after the 2003, this wine seemed lacking in generosity in the mouthfeel and finish. A little astringent on the finish. Acidity seemed a little on the low side. Drink now. 16.5/20
2004 Perrot-Minot Les Beaux Monts was very interesting. Quite muscular and angular initially. Time in the glass opened up the wine. The oak was still evident but it married well with the intense character of the flavours. Good concentration for the vintage. This may not be the most elegant Beaux Monts but it was a worthy effort for the vintage, avoiding the green and resiny character. Drink now, with aeration, and over next 6 - 8 years. 17.5/20
We finished with 2002 Potel Gaudichots. Still quite closed on the palate, even after 2 hours of decanting. A little lean at the moment but pure cherry fruit with lovely Vosne spice, followed by a mineral-driven palate. Not a big and muscular wine, but there was depth and a very pure Vosne core about it. A fine effort. I would probably go back to try this again in 2 - 3 years time to see if it eventually opens up. 17/20
That these wines all showed class and breed was unquestionable.....I just wish we were able to stay longer to see how these wines developed over a few hours, or better still years!
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