18 August 2013: We've had such mixed luck with these supposedly top white Burgundies...but at least we found one that dazzled us...and it's from the 2002 vintage!
2002 Le Montrachet, Fontaine-Gagnard: If there was any doubt whether this fell victim to white Burgundy's nemesis of premature oxidation, tasting it side by side the 2002 Blain Gagnard, immediately confirmed this. The colour was medium gold. Notes of roasted hazelnuts, fig, toast, smoke and spice, with wihiffs of caramel adorning the bouquet. Though rich and unctuous with a relatively full body, the flavour intensity was weak, lacking in fruit, and did not support the complexity on the nose. Finishes short. This simply didn't have the class of the Montrachet! Better with cheese. 16/20
2002 Le Montrachet, Blain Gagnard: Medium lemon colour. Still very reserved on the nose: lime zest, green apple, green pear and some white flowers. This is classy juice, dazzling with tons of minerality, precision and mouth staining flavours on the palate. First rate. As youthful as this bottle shows now, I wouldn't wait too long to enjoy this, given the inconsistency we have found with this wine (an earlier premoxed bottle from the same case). Better enjoy now with some aeration! Such a contrast with the 2002 Le Montrachet, Fontaine-Gagnard. (Note that we opened a bottle of the same wine, from the same case, a year ago and it was totally oxidised!) 19.5/20
Plus we had this recently.....
2007 Meursault Les Poruzots, Henri Boillot: Medium lemon colour. A relatively reticent nose of lime zest, green apple with some toasted almond note coming through. Very tightly wound on the palate, all muscles and not much flesh at the moment, with mineral and spice dominating the palate. This needs time to develop the middle palate and add some weight. Persistent finish. 17.5/20
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