11 Jun 2013: I was very excited to try this bottle of 2010 Derthona Costa del Vento, by Walter Massa. I didn't know anything about this grape variety nor winemaker. Timorasso is the grape variety, native to Colli Tortonesi, in the province of Alessandria, Piemonte, bordering with Lombardia. It grows well on calcareous-clay soils, to quite low yields. Situated next door to Gavi, Timorasso had long been overlooked in the frenzy about refreshing, candied fruit flavoured Cortese, until one man championed its revival with a very singular passion, on initially a 1.5-hectare vineyard - Walter Massa of Vigneti Massa, based in Monleale, a town atop the Colli Tortonesi. The answer to his conviction was in the bottle. What a discovery! A medium gold hue. With an hour of decanting, we were already in awe of the irresistible bouquet of honeysuckle, apricot, quince, candied fruit, layered with smoke, honey, toasted almonds and a light gingery spice. And it kept evolving.... Creamy texture, laced with intense minerality underlying those rich flavours, giving an unctuous and vinous feel to the palate. A good acidity level gave vibrant lift to the lingering complex finish. This is not your typical quaffing wine but a serious wine that has yet to reach its apogee, at around 4 - 5 years after bottling. At 14.5% abv, I would probably have it later in the year, in the autumn/winter months - white truffle season! This will drink well for another 6 - 8+ years. Surprisingly no wood had been used here....made with indigenous yeast, with maceration of around 48 - 60 hours before pressing, fermentation temperature at about 18 - 22 degrees, vinification and ageing in stainless steel tanks, with regular batonnage. It made a very nice pairing with the pasta with chicken gravy and truffle at Amuse Bouche! This is the entry level of Massa's Timorasso range (I will be very happy to give it a rating of 17.5+/20.)....the cru called Strepi is apparently even more ethereal. I would love to try it! (I thought it was DOC Colli Tortonesi, but I cannot find it anywhere on the label....)
The same evening, we also had 2 Barolos by Aldo Conterno, both decanted for about an hour and a half before we tried them. 2001 Gran Bussia Riserva and 2004 Romirasco. The 2004 Romirasco (from vineyard in Bussia, Monforte) was clearly the red wine of the night. A headturning intense and complex bouquet of tar, roses, mint, liquorice, plum and dark red cherry preserve notes, with some meaty and earthy nuances. There is no question of its opulence and power, even before tasting. On the palate, it was velvety and lush, full bodied, well balanced with vibrant acidity and firm tannin. There was a classy sophistication and elegance underneath the superficial big-ness and muscular structure. Drink now and over next 10 - 15 years. 18.5/20 The last time the Romirasco was bottled was in 1993. This vineyard would normally go straight into the Gran Bussia Riserva blend. There was no Riserva in 2004, as the Cicala vineyard was severely damaged by hail in 2004. Fermentation of the Romirasco would take place in stainless steel tanks and the vines are roughly around 50 - 55 years old. Skin contact would be around 30 days. Ageing in large Slavonian casks for about 30 months.
The 2001 Gran Bussia Riserva delivered lovely aromatics, notes of dried rose petals, red fruit, tar, liquorice and herbal. This seemed still quite youthful, with no sign of tertiary character. Quite subdued on the palate, the finesse was apparent in the medium-bodied frame, but the flavours seemed a little short-lived leading to the finish. Perhaps we're encountering this wine in the closed-up phase? Drink now and over next 10+ years. 17/20 I had higher expectations for this wine which is a blend of the 3 vineyards, Romarisco, Cicala and Colonnello, in the proportion of 70%, 15% and 15% respectively, made in limited quantities and only in the best years. Only the oldest vines would make it into the blend. Fermentation and skin contact during 60 days in large Slavonian casks before ageing for 32 months. Only released after 7 years in cellar.
The 1971 Giacomo Conterno Barolo turned out to be a dud (expectedly)......and the 1997 Sandrone Barolo Cannubi Boschis was a little too super-ripe for our liking. Notes of kirsch, black cherry, liquorice, tar, herbal, sun-dried fruit and even a hint of caramel on the bouquet. Nicely balanced, with ripe tannin and a good dose of acidity, but the concentration on the palate was almost brutish. Drink now and over next 5 - 6+ years. (Perhaps we should also revisit in a couple of years time to see if the dried fruit character will have evolved into something much more interesting.) 16.5/20
The real eye-opener tonight was the Timorasso.....simply brilliant! Patrick, thank you so much for introducing this wine to us!
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