A Taste of Swiss Wine

9 Jun 2013: Last month, I attended a Swiss wine and cheese pairing evening organised by The Swiss Wine Store in Hong Kong (www.theswisswinestore.com) - a wine merchant dedicated to the promotion of high quality Swiss wines.  My earlier scepticism about Swiss wine (based on limited earlier experience) was completely dispelled at the end of this tasting and an interest to explore further was definitely inspired, thanks to HK-based Swiss wine champion, Damien Fleury.  Damien is the founder of The Swiss Wine Store which currently imports the wines of 2 wineries: Jean-René Germanier and Provins Valais (together the Collection Chandra Kurt, making it 3 lines of products altogether).  

Although bordered by the French, Italians and Germans, Switzerland also boasts quite a few indigenous grape varieties, such as the following, all found in the Valais, Humagne Blanche (white), Petite Arvine (white), Amigne (white), Heida (white), Cornalin (red) and Humagne Rouge (red). Majority (80%) of the Swiss wine production takes place in the French-speaking part, 15% in the German-speaking part and the remaining 5% in the Italian part. Total area under vinews is around 15,000 hectares (1/8 size of Bordeaux), producing 1.1 million hl (0.4% total world production), but there is no shortage of ambitious winemakers trying to make a difference and showing the world their talent through the 2% of production that gets exported every year. 

Based in Balavaud within the Vétroz commune where the vines ripen nicely in the warm and dry microclimate along the valley hillsides that flank the Rhone river, Jean-René Germanier is widely regarded as one of Swiss top producers (www.jrgermanier.ch).  Now into its 3rd generation, since establishment in 1896, this boutique winery produces award-winning wines such as Cayas (Syrah), Mitis (botrytised Amigne) and Champmarais (Cornalin) - all very much worth exploring.   The Collection Chandra Kurt by cooperative Provins Valais (www.provins.ch) (roughly producing a quarter of Valais's production) is also worth exploring as it is the creation of wine writer Chandra Kurt and winemaker Madeleine Gay to focus on rare and ancient lesser known varietals.  

At this tasting, I was rather impressed by the following indigenous grape varieties:

2011 Petite Arvine du Valais, Collection Chandra Kurt, Provins (AOC Valais).  I liked the aromatic notes of floral, honey, citrus, with some ginger spice, and there was a very nice balance between remarkable freshness and richness.  Nice complex savoury finish. Alcohol a little on the high side for me at 14%.  How about tapas and dim sum (the modern version of barbecued pork bun - the kind topped with a sugary crust!), or the Japanese miso-marinated cod? (As for cheese pairing, I liked this with Emmental which turned out to be quite a hard one to pair!)

2010 Amigne du Valais, Collection Chandra Kurt, Provins (AOC Valais). Here, there was a richer texture and more powerful structure.  Notes of peach, apricot, floral and some marmalade.  A little high in alcohol for me. 14% abv. I could imagine a pairing with unagi sushi (the grilled, almost sweet version with the caramelised soya sauce), a delicate or floral-flavoured Chinese dish, such as the Shanghainese ham sandwich, with osmanthus honey sauce, or Vietnamese dishes. (For the cheese pairing part, I liked it with Tilsiter.)

2011 Fendant Balavaud Grand Cru from Jean-René Germanier was savoury, with notes of citrus, grapefruit, herbal, flint and smokey, very expressive, but probably would show better slightly more chilled. A nice alcohol level at 12.5%.  Fendant is the name for Chasselas in Valais.  I could have this with sushi or steamed fish?  This made a good pairing with Tête-de-Moine.

2011 Humagne Rouge, Jean-René Germanier (AOC Valais).  I liked the sour cherry, berries, spicy and slightly leather note here.  A little rustic, but well-balanced and nicely harmonious.  Some resemblance with a nice Beaujolais Cru - a Brouilly?  (For the cheese pairing, I liked it with Appenzeller and Gruyère.)

What this tasting proved to me was that you could find other occasions to enjoy these high quality wines from Switzerland......and it doesn't have to be at the winter fondue party!