When Cheval Blanc impresses........

20 May 2013:

We have recently found some excuse to open a few nice bottles from the Saint Emilion commune. At a dinner just over a week ago, we cracked open 2 bottles from the 1982 vintage: Cheval Blanc and Ausone, followed by a war-time production of Ausone (1943). I had served a braised short rib in mustard and red wine sauce, with a celeriac and butternut bake à la dauphinoise, and buttered local organic carrots.

1982 Cheval Blanc: A medium to deep ruby core. An intense and opulent bouquet of plum, blueberry, cassis, complemented with sweet spices, graphite, leather and cedar notes, wafting up to the nose. The palate flaunted velvety tannin, vibrant acidity and harmony in every sense, leading to a fresh, spicy and long finale, defined by exotic opulence, layered complexity, remarkable freshness and youthful vigour. A very memorable symphony of perfectly pitched notes. Drink now and over next 12 – 15 years. 19/20

1982 Ausone: More of a hint of garnet at the rim. The nose was less opulent than the Cheval Blanc, exhibiting notes of blueberry, cedar, animal, coffee with some herbal and herbaceous notes. There was a certain degree of elegance and style on the palate here, but erring more on the lean and ungenerous side, compared to the lush Cheval Blanc. Drying on the finish, with a slightly disturbing green note. Finishes a little short. Perhaps this was just a below-par bottle….but probably drink now! 16.5/20

1943 Ausone: A very good level (into neck) for this age. Despite being marred by a touch of volatility, this bottle displayed an elegance and fine structure. This bottle might have seen better days and the wine seemed to be lacking in energy. Drying finish. More interesting as a remnant of a time of turmoil and disruption. 16/20

1959 Cheval Blanc: Very good level (into neck). Medium garnet core. A very distinct and mature bouquet of blueberry, fig, cedar, cigar box, graphite and leather notes, layered with an earthy ‘perfume’ of the soil. It was lush and velvety, with a lovely freshness caressing the palate. The smallest perception of slightly maderised note of caramel and fruitcake did not detract from the enjoyment of this wine, and probably added to the complexity on the earthy and farmyard finish which showed a hint of dryness. This exuded flamboyance, sheer opulence and class. Drink now for the 750 ml formats! 18/20

1949 Cheval Blanc (half bottle): Quite closed on the nose initially. Medium garnet core. There was a strong whiff of rusty nail that never quite went away. Notes of decayed leaves and black tea, with an elegant structure of underlying acidity and fine tannin. Nevertheless, this seemed a little austere/ungenerous after the opulent and flamboyant 1959. Drying finish. Probably saw better days. 17/20


We also enjoyed recently the 1996 Cristal. Very fine aged champagne, with plenty of poise and elegance. Mature bouquet of ripe pear, toffee apple, candied fruit, liquorice, coffee and acacia notes. Creamy mousse, with plenty of richness and intensity on the palate, but this bottle seemed a little evolved to us. Long spicy finish. 17.5/20

By contrast, the 1996 Corton-Charlemagne Bonneau du Martray was full of energy and tension. A great Corton Charlemagne, with signature bouquet of honey, citrus, pear, spice and smokey character. Plenty of vibrant minerality on the palate, leading to a long finish. A gorgeous wine with plenty of life ahead. Drink now and over next 8 – 10+ years. 18.5/20

2001 Climens was as expected a sensational wine. Bright golden core. Nose of orange marmalade, quince, apricot, honey and nutty notes. Richness, without the heaviness. Intense and superbly balanced. A beautiful wine that has a very long life ahead….drink now and over next 20+ years. 19.5/20