Continuing with the live-streamed masterclass series on Bourgogne wines simultaneously broadcast to multiple global markets by the Bourgogne Wine Board (BIVB), Hong Kong kicked off 2018 with a well-attended session on Meursault and its climats on 31 January. [#BIVBRDV]
Meursault wines are well loved by consumers and trade professionals around the world. This masterclass hosted by the Bourgogne Wine Board further explores the nuances in topography and geology of the Meursault vineyards to explain the diversity of the wines of Meursault, finishing with a tasting of 6 Meursault climats.
In 1098, the Duke of Bourgogne donated land in Meursault to the Abbey of Citeaux, signifying the importance of this vineyard. Using wine as a political tool, the Duchy of Bourgogne significantly raised the profile of Bourgogne wines across Europe and with it, the reputation of the white wines of Meursault. By the mid 18th Century, Meursault’s reputation was widely spread across France. In an official account in 1788, Les Charmes, Les Perrières, Les Genevrières and Les Gouttes d’Or were already named as best sites for Meursault wine. Meursault’s fame and importance had attracted many aristocratic families to establish stately homes, complete with barns and cellars, in the village of Meursault, located just 8 km south of Beaune, on the Côte de Beaune. In 1923, at the initiative of Jules Lafon, the first Paulée de Meursault took place, in an effort to promote local wines on a national scale. From a modest attendance of 35 guests at the inaugural Paulée, this significant and convivial finale event of Les Trois Glorieuses which marks the end of the auction of wines at the Hospices de Beaune in November, has received strong media attention. In 2017, this event was attended by 742 guests from Bourgogne and beyond.
The Meursault AOC was created in 1937. As the list of premier cru climats was drawn up in 1943, during the Second World War, in an effort to protect national assets, many of Meursault’s top vineyards joined this prestigious ranking. Meursault covers a vineyard area of 397 hectares, dominated by white wine production. The area under production for white wine is 385 ha (including 105 ha for Premier Cru), leaving just 12 ha for red wine production (including 2 ha of Premier Cru). The diversity and quality of Meursault wines is expressed not just by its 19 distinct premier cru climats but also by a long list of lieux-dits.
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| Source: www.bourgogne-wines.com |
One may wonder with so much historic interest and indisputable reputation and quality, why there are no Grand Cru climats in Meursault. According to Stéphane Follin-Arbelet, CEO of Château de Meursault, the answer is a simple one: tax reasons. In order to avoid higher taxes for its wines at the beginning of the 20th Century, along with its neighbours Volnay and Pommard, Meursault decided not to promote any wines to the Grand Cru status. Today, the top Premier Cru climats of Meursault command prices in the market as competitive as those for the Grand Cru wines in neighbouring villages.
To explain the diversity of styles, Jean-Pierre Renard, Official Educator of L’Ecole des Vins de Bourgogne, took us through the geology and topography of the vineyards. As a result of tectonic movements and geological events, the Meursault vineyard is not one gentle slope, but one built on irregular steps, separated by plantings of bushes and trees. At the bottom step/level, there is a thin layer of marl with compact limestone that has been carved from the quarries. The next distinct level shows a limestone layer called Pearly slab. Near the top, the marl soil is more recent, dating from the Upper Jurassic period, stopped by compact limestone at the summit.
In terms of vineyard area, Meursault can be divided in general into 3 different parts. The first part is at the north side of the village, to the left bank of the Ruisseau des Cloux which runs down from Auxey Duresses, extending to the villages of Monthélie and Volnay. Here the vineyards enjoy a gentle slope, with perfect SE exposure. Vineyards near the Ruisseau des Cloux enjoy the cool air that comes with the flowing water. You find the Premier Cru climats of Les Cras and Les Caillerets at the north end, together with the peculiarity of sharing vineyards with Volnay. Where Pinot Noir is grown, the wine is called Volnay-Santenots Premier Cru and where Chardonnay is grown, the wine is called Meursault-Santenots Premier Cru. The second part is located NW of the village, from 220 metres to nearly 380 metres. Here we have mostly village level wines. With the influence of the cool air from the valley of Auxey Duresses, vine maturation is slowed at higher vineyard sites such as Les Luchets, Les Meix Chavaux and Les Vireuils, and their wines have a signature freshness. The third part of the Meursault vineyard is located at the south of the village. Here, the landscape is marked by a number of geological faults, thus leading to much diversity in soil structure. At the lower slopes, the soil is deeper, covered with pebbles and scree. The soil structure becomes more marl-based higher up, followed by more compact limestone, such as in Les Perrières, or the upper parts of Les Genevrières and Les Bouchères, at higher altitudes. Another peculiarity, similar to that with Volnay, here Meursault shares vineyards with neighbouring Blagny. Where Pinot Noir is grown, the wine is Blagny or Blagny Premier Cru, and where Chardonnay is grown, it can be Meursault-Blagny Premier Cru or Meursault Premier Cru, with the name of the climat, such as La Pièce sous le Bois and Sous le Dos d’Ane.
The wine styles of Meursault have evolved over the years. They used to be described as ample, rounded, fleshy and oaky. With better understanding of the soils and subsoils, microclimatic conditions, and vinification improvements, Meursault wines are now much better expressions of their diverse terroirs. Marion Javillier of Domaine Patrick Javillier said that winemaking used to involve a lot of bâtonnage, extended élevage and heavier use of oak, and winemakers used to make one cuvée by blending in different climats. Today, the wines of Meursault are much more refined and elegant - each wine is a distinct expression of the individual climat. Some are more rounded and rich while others are more mineral.
When asked how to differentiate Meursault from its illustrious neighbours of Chassagne-Montrachet and Puligny-Montrachet, Renard said that Chassagne would be recognised for having more structure and body while Puligny would be recognised for its elegance, finesse and delicate structure. Meursault would be in between these two, showing an elegant structure backed by distinct minerality.
A wine of such reputation can sometimes be accompanied by a deterring price. To this, Renard recommended the wines from the appellation of Saint Aubin as a “rapport prix-qualité” option for those on a more modest budget.
To experience this diversity of styles, we tasted 6 wines selected by BIVB:
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| Six different expressions of Meursault |
Meursault Les Pierres, 2015, Domaine Jean Chartron
“Les Pierres” is a cuvée created with vines from Les Tillets and Les Gorges de Narvaux. The higher altitude lends a certain steely tension and freshness to the wine. It displays a mineral character, overlaid with nutty and floral nuances. The use of oak (30% new oak) is well-integrated and subtly discernible. This wine could benefit from some aging to soften out the youthful edginess.
Meursault Les Tillets, 2015, Domaine Patrick Javillier
The word “Tillets” is derived from the tree “tilleul” or lime blossom. The stony vineyard of Les Tillets is higher up, between 320 and 380 metres in altitude. The nose of this wine is textbook Meursault, with floral and nutty notes, hinted with oak spice. The palate is rounded, balanced, with well-defined freshness. Refined, elegant, and a clean lingering finish. New oak use is 30%, with 11 months élevage in oak plus 4 months in stainless steel vats. Already a great expression of Les Tillets, it will benefit from another year of cellaring before tasting.
Meursault Les Charrons, 2015, Maison Vincent Girardin
The word “Charrons” is derived from the word “charrettes”, recalling the time when this area was grown with trees for making carts. This is more powerful and fleshy in style, with softer acidity. Almond, floral and hint of beeswax notes, with a distinct chalky minerality. 15% new oak is used. Ageing for 14 months, with the last month in stainless steel vats.
Meursault Premier Cru, Poruzots, 2015, Domaine Philippe Bouzereau, Château de Citeaux
The word “Poruzots” is derived from the word “porroux” referring to areas with rocky soils. This wine seems more austere at this stage, broad-shouldered, with a very tight structure, and not very expressive at this stage. This will benefit from 2-3 years of cellaring time.
The question of drinking windows prompted Renard to recall the experience of tasting a still vivid Meursault from the 1846 vintage (we guess it was a recent-ish experience!). However, for the wines made today in a more approachable and expressive style, his recommended drinking window for Meursault Village is about 4 – 5 years and for Premier Cru, 5 – 10 years, depending on the climat.
Meursault Premier Cru, Blagny, 2015, Domaine Faiveley
This is at once a more approachable style than the previous example. Creamy texture belies a still tight but elegant structure. Citrus, floral and spicy notes. Richness, elegance and finesse all wrapped into one here. Although the 50% new oak is discernible, it seems well-integrated into the structure of the wine, enriching the wine aromatically and giving the wine a mellow creamy texture. A very sophisticated Meursault-Blagny Premier Cru.
Meursault Premier Cru, Genevrières, 2014, Domaine Latour-Giraud
This domaine is the largest holder of the climat Les Genevrières in Meursault, with 2.5 ha out of a total of 16 ha for the entire climat). The vines are over 40 years old. The word “Genevrières” is derived from the reference to juniper bushes, with prickly needles and purple berries that grow well on limestone soil. There is a vibrant freshness, that is characteristic of the vintage, balanced by the richness and intensity from the climat, complete with a linear structure. An elegant wine with purity and intensity that will enhance its cellaring development over the next 2-3 years.
Consistent high quality and diversity make Meursault wines, at all levels, a compelling choice for your cellar. Follin-Arbelet concurred, “Meursault is [definitely] a wine to have in your cellar!” Out of his domaine’s portfolio, his two favourite climats were Charmes-Dessus and Les Perrières. The power and richness in Charmes-Dessus reminds him of a panda, strong yet comfortable [cuddly?] while the sinewy and mineral Les Perrières reminds him of a wild horse. As for Javillier, she would choose the rounder and richer Clos du Cromin as the perfect accompaniment for chicken and meat dishes, whereas the minerality and elegance of Les Tillets would be perfect for shellfish and Asian food.
Happy hunting for your favourite Meursault climats!
Acknowledgement:
As the host of this masterclass and a Bourgogne Wines Ambassador, I would like to thank Berry Bros & Rudd for the use of their tasting room venue for this masterclass and their staff for being so helpful.
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