1996 Roumier Corton Charlemagne and 2001 Gouges Les Saint Georges

13 May 2017:

1996 Roumier Corton-Charlemagne

This bottle of 1996 Roumier Corton-Charlemagne restored our faith in nicely matured white Bourgogne wine. Its rich texture and vigor delivered a wealth of mature oxidative notes of hazelnut, honey, beeswax and apricot that gave a well-honed balance to this 20-year-old bottle of Chardonnay. There were layers of complexity but the absence of aldehydic notes endeared us to this bottle. 17.5/20

2001 Henri Gouges Nuits-Saint-Georges Les St Georges
By stark contrast, the lush texture of firm tannins and concentrated richness belied a youthful vigor for a wine of over 15 years. Deep ruby core. Overwhelmingly smokey and slight barnyard notes masking the rather subtle black raspberry fruit. I would have preferred greater forest berry charm and intensity to enrich the fruity character.  It was nonetheless a vibrantly structured wine in its prime, unyielding during the first 3 hours and only started to show its more approachable self in the 4th hour. Long finish.  It would be interesting to see how this wine evolves with the softening of the tannic structure and if the fruity character would continue to remain elusive.....17/20