1999 Echezeaux: Emmanuel Rouget versus Jayer-Gilles

27 September 2015: Mid-Autumn Festival dinner. To go with my homemade lime and chili flavoured guacamole, we started with a 2013 Chablis Mont de Milieu, Domaine Pinson Frères. Harvest started early for the Pinsons for this vintage...with the Mont de Milieu grapes from 30-year-old vines being brought in on 16th September. The domaine started using 100% indigenous yeasts as of 2013 vintage, which would lead to slower fermentation process and more complex flavour development, but also could explain the trace of residual sugar in the Mont de Milieu. It was rich and opulent,with an intense stone fruit, citrus lime, slightly honey, smokey and mineral expression. Acidity was noticeably softer than a classic Chablis vintage but the wine was nicely balanced overall, with a long saline finish. 16/20

Over Richard's roast lamb loin, scented with rosemary and garlic, with caramelised shallots, we compared 2 bottles of 1999 Echézeaux, one by Emmanuel Rouget and the other by Jayer-Gilles. 

The Rouget showed bright, rich and pure red fruit of raspberry and cherry, laced with savoury bacon, smokey, sweet vanilla nuances, in a rich and luscious expression of old vines (around 65 years then) from the climats of Les Cruots, Les Treux and Clos Saint-Denis. Beautiful concentration, presented by the seamless integration, firm structure, velvety texture and balance and energy. Drink now and over the next 10 -12+ years. 18.5/20 (According to Winesearcher.com, a bottle currently retails at  around GBP 420/USD 635.)

The Echézeaux du Dessus by Jayer-Gilles revealed a more subdued and yet refined character, and an impressive balance that led to a persistent finish. More evolved than the Rouget, showing more game, sous-bois, spicy, and mushroom notes. Elegantly balanced, with lovely lift of freshness. Drink now and over 8 - 10+ years. (The Echézeaux du Dessus is a much favoured climat of Echézeaux, about 3.55 ha in size, and lying just above Grands Echézeaux, and neighbouring Les Loachausses and Les Cruots.) 18/20 (According to Winesearcher.com, a bottle of this wine currently retails at around GBP 225/USD 345.)

To pair with the festive mooncake, we had a 2002 Pinot Gris Altenbourg, Clos des Capucins, Sélection des Grains Nobles, Domaine Weinbach. Golden hue, an intense nose and palate of white chocolate, ripe pear, macadamia, ginger, honey and caramel notes. Vibrant acidity giving this opulent wine perfect balance and the wonderfully persistent finish kept taking us back for more until the last drop. Loved the 10.5% abv! It worked beautifully with the salted egg yolk and the creamy lotus seed paste!  18/20