1983 Margaux and 1985 Margaux

4 July 2015: The 4th July had given us non-US citizens a chance to get together to share 2 glorious magnums: 1983 and 1985 Margaux (amidst others).  We started with 2005 Cristal in magnum: subtle tension married with richness, with layers of aromatic complexity of citrus, apple, with toast and brioche notes, and a vibrant freshness.  Balanced, with plenty of signature finesse, very approachable and seductive to the palate. Finishes very long. Very difficult to stop sipping this wine.  The magnum disappeared rather rapidly!  This is drinking beautifully now (even from a magnum)!  55% Pinot Noir and 45% Chardonnay, all selected from Grand Cru plots, with 20% of the wine aged in oak barrels, with regular batonnage and no malolactic fermentation. 17.5/20

We then moved onto a 2002 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Chenevottes, Jean-Noël Gagnard.  Vivid acidity presenting aromatics of almond, citrus, pear and lime blossom.  Bright and clear on first approach.  Well-delineated, nicely detailed, but lacking in mid-palate intensity or persistence. A wine perfect now, with no benefit from further cellaring. 16/20

1985 Château Margaux (magnum): Clear, limpid. Alluring bouquet of cedar, cigar box, warm pebbles, blueberry and cardamon spice.  Silky texture, showing off the beautiful fruit, seamlessly integrated with the lively acidity, giving a great lift to the palate.  Suave and sensual, a wine in a very attractive harmonious state, simply perfect! I loved the way it finished. Clean, fresh and long.  18/20

1983 Château Margaux (magnum): Not limpid - rather murky. On the nose, there is an almost stewed blue/black fruit character alongside some Bovril, mushroom and gamey character.  The palate reveals an opulence and density from the very ripe fruit.  Velvety and full-bodied, does not quite have the same lift as the 1985.  I sensed just a hint of volatile acidity in this bottle, but it did not detract from the richness, concentration or intensity of this vintage for Château Margaux - a monumental wine that could take more cellaring time to unravel for a clean bottle.  18+/20

1975 Château Pétrus: One of our friends had very generously brought this.  A more rustic and subdued style.  Beautiful nose of mocha, with just some sappy and balsamic notes.  A wine at full maturity now and showing some dryness at the finish.  This bottle did not seem to have the promise of a very long life ahead but it certainly delivered the elegance of Pétrus, even in its more subdued state.  A fine drop, though rather hastily consumed by our group!  17/20

1988 Château d'Yquem: A magnificent Sauternes, showing its signature richness of palate and bouquet of marmalade, citrus, apricot and spice, lifted by an exhilarating acidity that was so seamlessly integrated, giving such incredible freshness and energy to the wine.  A glorious drop with a very persistent finish.  I made my glass last a very long time!  Drink now, with a very long life ahead!  19.5/20 (This was no shy company for the key lime pie/tart that Debra had made for us!)

1970 Graham's: Distinct with the maraschino cherries and spices character.  Full-bodied, fleshy, not very engaging initially, and rather spirity at the finish.  We didn't give this bottle the time for proper appreciation during the dinner.  17.5/20

Debra's key lime 'tart', as it had not been made in a pie dish!