 |
| Our private room at Chateau de Citeaux, Meursault |
According to Vincent Chevrot (of Domaine Chevrot in Maranges), it was really from 2010 that they significantly reduced the amount of sulphur dioxide, with none added to the crushing of red wine grapes. The wine now shows more marked acidity, finer tannin and more finesse. He would add some sulphur dioxide at bottling, to just a total of 30 mg/litre, with free portion around 15 mg/litre (much lower than the requirements of Ecocert at 100 mg/litre for reds and 150 mg/litre for whites and rosés). The reason for the conversion to organic in 2008 (with certification in 2011) was really health for the soil and vines and for the vineyard workers.
 |
| Vincent Chevrot (middle), with Minoru-san and Cheewee on either side |
The Maranges La Fussière is bottled without filtration. Fermented without sulphur dioxide, with 20% whole bunch, and 15 – 16 days of maceration. 15 months in barrels, with 20% new oak. Bottling in January, with 3 rackings, once in the summer following harvest, second time to decant into large tanks, and the last time before bottling to clarify. According to Vincent, whole bunch gives a certain style and structure. (And if you are in Japan, check out the Suzuki Rosé by Domaine Chevrot - a top-seller in Japan especially in the months of cherry blossom appreciation, thanks to the effort by Vincent's sister-in-law!)
Frederick Buisson (of Domaine Henri et Gilles Buisson in Saint Romain) talked to us about the domaine's project of Absolu, a tiny production of around 2,000 bottles of red and 2,000 white each year since 2010. Absolu has a total of 20 mg/litre, added just before bottling and free sulphur is zero. This is significantly below Ecocert’s absolute minimum of 30 – 40 mg/litre of free sulphur dioxide. For the traditional range, he would keep total sulphur dioxide at about 60 – 80 mg/litre, with free of 30 – 35 mg/litre. It was interesting to taste the very lightly sulphited and more conventionally sulphited versions side by side, with the less sulphited version showing a fullness in the mouth and more clarity and precision for the wine with more sulphite.
 |
| Delicious whites: Maranges, Saint-Romain Sous La Velle and Pernand-Vergelesses Pemier Cru Sous Fretille (highly recommended) |
Luc Pavelot (of Domaine Pavelot in Pernand-Vergelesses) also spoke about his method to keep sulphur down. The first and most important was to harvest only healthy grapes and to pay attention to sorting. The next most important was the quality of the press and the addition of sulphur dioxide for protection. He also uses carbon dioxide to reduce the use of sulphur dioxide during vinification. His wines are bottled without filtration.
 |
| Olivier Lamy pouring cremant for everyone |
On the occasion of our closing dinner (a barbecue dinner à la Paulée hosted by Domaine Roche de Bellène), we spoke to Olivier Lamy (of Domaine Hubert Lamy in Saint-Aubin) about density of plantation. He believes in keeping the vines lower (a shorter distance between the fruiting area and roots), so that the flow of sap is more efficient and the energy is better channeled to the vines. This is more back-breaking work but Olivier believes that it is worth it. The higher density helps keep control vigour. His vines from the vineyard Saint-Aubin Derrière Chez Edouard are planted 0.3 m x 1 m to give 30,000 vines per hectare. He uses different planting densities depending on the climat and microclimates. Some could be 0.75 m x 1 m, resulting in 13,000 vines per hectare. Because of the tight planting, he does not require cover crop to create competition at the top of the slope. He only has cover crop at the bottom slope. In addition, he swears by an ancient technique of pruning: Guyot-Poussard, which is in between Gobelet (spur) and Guyot (cane). This pruning technique is believed to cause much less damage to vines, thus extending the life of vines, reducing the frequency to replant and ensuring healthier grapes.
[May I please also thank our fellow educator Kusuda-san for sharing with us a 1972 Chassagne-Montrachet Clos Saint Jean, Ramonet-Prudhon!]
Claire Naudin (of Domaine Henri Naudin-Ferrand in the Hautes Côtes de Nuits) has been experimenting with sulphur dioxide for the last 15 years. She now produces a separate range (under her name Claire Naudin) with very little sulphite, about 30 – 35 mg/litre total and 20 mg/litre free, compared with the conventional range of 50 – 60 mg/litre total and 20 mg/litre free. This means that for the wines vinified without sulphur dioxide (no crushing of grapes, no pumping/racking and use of carbon dioxide, with sulphur just added before bottling), a lesser total amount gives the same free level as the conventionally sulphited version. We tried her Bourgogne-Aligoté, with and without sulphur. The version with sulphur has more rounded texture and more leesy aromas. The version without shows bright and crisp fruit, with more pronounced freshness. As for the reds, the 2013 Hautes Côtes de Nuits vinified without sulphur shows pure fruit, with floral and sous-bois character, and lifted freshness. The version with sulphur seems more subdued. However, Claire said that based on her 15 years of experimenting, there is no rule about which version would have more longevity.
Claire also patiently took us through the steps that Bourgogne vignerons have identified as key steps to the overall technical improvement of the region.
1) Maintaining the sustainability of the vineyards. This point concerns the fight against pests such as Drosophila suzukii (or Suzuki flies) and diseases (Flavescence dorée, esca, etc). Flavescence dorée is a disease infection by phytoplasm, causing leaves to yellow, branches to change shape and roots to remain green not brown. Spraying is a solution but Claire said that the spray even though organic could cause burns to humans – she had one arm burnt by the spray. After spraying, you would need to leave the vineyard for 2 days before returning. Another solution would be to immerse young plantings in warm water to eradicate the pathogen. Spreading of Flavescence dorée could be by leafhoppers or humans/tractors. The first time that sizeable damage was noted in the Saône et Loire region – 11 hectares of vines had to be pulled out. Now the damage seems much more subdued and area much more focused.
As for climate related hazards such as hail, 30 vignerons have signed up to trial the use of net. Each row of vines is covered by one net. They are evaluating the pros and cons (the latter could include reduced sunlight and air circulation).
2) Keeping diversity of varietals. More diversity of clones in the vineyard, more chances of the vineyard surviving any disease attack, with strengthened vines with greater resistance. Pinot Noir mutates very easily….it has a high plasticité génétique.
3) Ensuring sustainable viticulture and vinification. To help the vignerons, BIVB has developed a self-diagnostic programme for vignerons to use at their domaines. They could go through the list and see what they’re doing correctly, how they could improve, with some positive and realistic suggestions. For example, Claire said she would like to be able to treat the water used for cleaning tractors after spraying to minimise the pollution to environment. Even though she does not have a spray-recoverer, she uses low pressure to concentrate the spray on a smaller surface, so that there is less wastage and reduced use overall.
4) Bottling, dissolved oxygen and use of sulphur dioxide. The objective should be to achieve the best style of wine, through the overall decreased use of sulphur dioxide, while preventing premature oxidation. Sulphur dioxide is important in the control against brettanomyces. Vignerons now know besides other causes of infection, there is a direct link between brettanomyces and the use of barrel (how the barrels are cleaned, whether the wine is fermented or aged in oak).
As of now, BIVB has not set goals for reduction of carbon emissions and reduction of inputs into the vineyards, and the treatment and recycling of outputs to reduce environmental damage.
Claire also patiently took us through the steps that Bourgogne vignerons have identified as key steps to the overall technical improvement of the region.
1) Maintaining the sustainability of the vineyards. This point concerns the fight against pests such as Drosophila suzukii (or Suzuki flies) and diseases (Flavescence dorée, esca, etc). Flavescence dorée is a disease infection by phytoplasm, causing leaves to yellow, branches to change shape and roots to remain green not brown. Spraying is a solution but Claire said that the spray even though organic could cause burns to humans – she had one arm burnt by the spray. After spraying, you would need to leave the vineyard for 2 days before returning. Another solution would be to immerse young plantings in warm water to eradicate the pathogen. Spreading of Flavescence dorée could be by leafhoppers or humans/tractors. The first time that sizeable damage was noted in the Saône et Loire region – 11 hectares of vines had to be pulled out. Now the damage seems much more subdued and area much more focused.
As for climate related hazards such as hail, 30 vignerons have signed up to trial the use of net. Each row of vines is covered by one net. They are evaluating the pros and cons (the latter could include reduced sunlight and air circulation).
2) Keeping diversity of varietals. More diversity of clones in the vineyard, more chances of the vineyard surviving any disease attack, with strengthened vines with greater resistance. Pinot Noir mutates very easily….it has a high plasticité génétique.
3) Ensuring sustainable viticulture and vinification. To help the vignerons, BIVB has developed a self-diagnostic programme for vignerons to use at their domaines. They could go through the list and see what they’re doing correctly, how they could improve, with some positive and realistic suggestions. For example, Claire said she would like to be able to treat the water used for cleaning tractors after spraying to minimise the pollution to environment. Even though she does not have a spray-recoverer, she uses low pressure to concentrate the spray on a smaller surface, so that there is less wastage and reduced use overall.
4) Bottling, dissolved oxygen and use of sulphur dioxide. The objective should be to achieve the best style of wine, through the overall decreased use of sulphur dioxide, while preventing premature oxidation. Sulphur dioxide is important in the control against brettanomyces. Vignerons now know besides other causes of infection, there is a direct link between brettanomyces and the use of barrel (how the barrels are cleaned, whether the wine is fermented or aged in oak).
As of now, BIVB has not set goals for reduction of carbon emissions and reduction of inputs into the vineyards, and the treatment and recycling of outputs to reduce environmental damage.
But one thing is certain: the future of Bourgogne is in good hands (at least some very good hands!)!
No comments:
Post a Comment