A Pair of 1947 magnums: La Mission Haut Brion and Clos Fourtet

18 Feb 2015:

A couple of special magnums to welcome the new Lunar year. The 2004 Perrier-Jouët Belle-Epoque Rosé was a perfect quencher. A pale onion skin colour, it delivered a nice fruity and refreshing start to the evening. Some spicy salami did a good pairing. (The 2002 Perrier-Jouët Belle-Epoque Blanc de Blancs we had last week showed a lot more verve, complexity and persistence on the finish. Toast, russet apple, pear, almond, with hints of orange blossom on the nose. The bubbles pirouetted on the palate, flaunting savoury and spicy notes amongst a creamy mousse. Beautifully balanced, fabulous energy, this was a beauty. 17/20)

Next we had the 2000 Bienvenues-Bâtard Montrachet, Leflaive while waiting for the 1996 Salon to chill. The 2000 Leflaive Bienvenues was singing! Medium lemon, with golden highlights. It was a fine example of the minerality, depth, finesse and complexity of a classy Grand Cru from Puligny. I found ginger, liquorice, hazelnut, acacia and pear notes. The creamy palate took the experience to a new height. It needed time though. I went back to it almost 3 hours after it was poured into the glass. What richness, strength and persistence it showed. Marvellous. (I actually went back to it with the cheese.) 18/20

The 1996 Salon was a star. Such a magnificent bouquet. Almond, shortbread, buttered toast, and lemon peel appearing in layers, coating the palate, and lingering on the finish. Vibrant acidity keeping the richness and tension in perfect balance.  Such precision. It was a very fine Salon and still so youthful. 19/20

Next came the 2 magnums. 1947 Clos Fourtet, level was upper mid shoulder (we had lost the original label!). The colour was deep garnet but it was limpid. Plenty of complexity and it kept evolving: caramel, coffee, chocolate, dried fruit, plum, cigar box, leather. There was a welcoming freshness on the rather lush palate. Seamlessly integrated in a still firm and fleshy structure. A very fine example of a well aged Saint Emilion. I probably enjoyed the nose more than the palate. In this format, still plenty going for this wine. Drink now or over next 8 -10 years. 18.5/20

The level of the 1947 La Mission Haut Brion in magnum was into neck. It was a medium garnet colour, but less limpid. The nose was unmistakable Graves: smokey, gravelly, ash, tobacco. Very tertiary. More delicate frame, fresh and elegant. A very refined example of gracefully aged Graves. I particularly loved the delicate way it crossed the palate and how flavours lingered. Slight dryness on the finish that would suggest earlier drinking than later. A close call between the two, but I was rather drawn by the more classy and suave style of the La Mission Haut Brion. In this format, drink now and over next 3 - 5 years, would be my guess based on this sample. 18.5/20

We finished with 1963 Fonseca. Deep garnet. Bright dark cherry fruit, plum, walnut, date, raisin. Luscious, mouthcoating but well balanced by firm acidity. Well-integrated tannin. An excellent Fonseca port and it slipped down rather well. Spirity finish. 17.5/20 (I had paired this with egg tarts from Tai Cheong, vanilla ice cream and a light caramel sauce, not quite the Portuguese pasteis de nata but it did the job well!)

Those magnums were sadly our last but there is no doubt the memory of their magnificence will last a very long time!