A Room Full of Gold: Australian Boutique Winemakers Trade Mission in HK

23 October 2014: Without the deep pockets, production volumes and international marketing panache of the big brands, it remains a challenging task for boutique wineries from Australia to reach out to export markets.  This year, with the sponsorship from Austrade, Judith Kennedy, CEO of the Association of Australian Boutique Winemakers Inc. (AABW) was able to embark on a sales mission into Hong Kong, joined by 7 Trophy winners and 3 Gold Medal winners.  Through a series of trade tastings, master classes and a degustation trophy dinner, trophy and medal winners were able to present their range of wines, including the winners, to local media and potential importers.   The Boutique Wine Awards is the only show in Australia where the top size limit is 250 tonnes, and they uniquely support the small and independent winemakers.

We certainly benefitted from this opportunity to taste these wines, made with such passion and dedication, and completely expressive of the personality of the winemaker, and regional characteristics. As Nick Bulleid MW, one of the speakers at the master classes, pointed out, Australia started making wine in 1874 but they had come through a long journey to more precisely map out where best to grow different varietals.  For instance, Riverina makes great botrytised wines, in the style of Sauternes, but it would never be able to make great Cabernet Sauvignon or Shiraz, even if it tried!  Nick himself makes a Pinot Noir at 910 metres altitude in Laggan, in the chilly Southern Tablelands of New South Wales (winery name Hatherleigh).....where he in some years has seen inches of snow in his 1 hectare vineyard.

It was not possible to attend all 4 of the master classes.  So I attended 2 of them: 1) Classic Aussie Varietals, Boutique Style; and 2) Terroir makes all the difference: West v South Showcase.  I was very impressed by the elegance, delineation, detail, clear regional definition and varietal expression of the wines in both master classes.  

Robert Fiumara from Lillypilly Estate (standing) and Nick Bulleid MW (seated)

Then there were the personal stories....Robert Fiumara, Owner and Winemaker of Lillypilly Estate in Riverina, told us that his father planted vines in 1972 when he was in 3rd form (about 8 years old), and in effect chose Robert's career for him!  His father made their first wine in 1982.  Lillypilly's Noble Blend Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon 2011 (Trophy winner in the Sweet Wines class) was a beautifully crafted Sauternes-style botrytised wine, without any use of oak (74% Sauvignon Blanc/26% Semillon).  Intense aromas of apricot, marmalade, candied orange peel, barley sugar.  Luscious, balanced by refreshing acidity and a light tannin, which ensured a drying sensation on the palate.  The estate makes about 1000 cases in an average year.

From right to left: Rhythm Stick Red Robin Riesling 2013 (Clare Valley, SA), Grove Estate Nebbiolo 2013 (Hilltops, NSW), Smallwater Estate Shiraz 2013 (Geographe, WA), Lillypilly Estate Noble Blend 2011 (Riverina, NSW), Stanton & Killeen Rare Topaque (Rutherglen, Victoria) 

Established in 1875, Stanton and Killeen has probably the longest history amongst the boutique wineries present at this trade mission in Hong Kong.  Now run by the 7th generation, 2015 will mark their 140th anniversary.  Stanton and Killeen has built its reputation on full-bodied reds, luscious fortified wines including Portuguese style ports and a range of Muscats and Topaques (previously known as Tokays), and also a dry red blend based on Douro varietals.  CEO Wendy Killeen successfully wooed the audience with sips of the nectar of her winery, the Rare Topaque (Trophy winner of the fortified class). Made with Muscadelle, and aged for over 30 year, this epitomises craftsmanship and singular dedication.  Rare by name and nature, this Rare Topaque represents less than 1% of the winery's production. It was rich and opulent. Walnut, date, prune and toffee flavours coated the palate, and lingered for quite a few minutes!  A most memorable wine of the tasting!

Wendy Killeen of Stanton and Killeen

The West versus South Australia tastings just reminded us that there was no one terroir for Australia, nor even within a state: Clare Valley, Langhorne Creek and Adelaide Hills from South Australia all have their unique climate, soil and stylistic characteristics, demonstrated by some very well-defined wines as Tagai Scar Tree Shiraz 2012 and Rhythm Stick's Red Robin Riesling 2013.  And Geographe is not quite the same as Margaret River.......and what a fine example of Margaret River's terroir was Woody Nook's Single Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot 2012, with the vines planted in 1982.

From right to left: Talisman Riesling 2013 (Geographe, WA), Rhythm Stick Red Robin Riesling 2013 (Clare Valley, SA), Smallwater Estate Shiraz 2013 (Geographe, WA), Tagai Scar Tree Shiraz 2012 (Langhorne Creek, SA), Woody Nook Single Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot 2013 (Margaret River, WA), Anvers Brabo Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 (Adelaide Hills, SA)

Australia has recently seen its range of wines augmented by a number of European and South American varietals....when asked which ones had shown the most promise, Nick Bulleid thought that the best examples he had tasted were Tempranillo, Arneis, Sangiovese and Vermentino, when grown in ideal soil and climate conditions.  He also had high hopes for Mencia!

Extremely professionally organised, Austrade did a brilliant job in helping these small 'guys' reach out to markets normally beyond their reach!  So may this effort continue!

For full details of the trophy and medal winners, please refer to: boutiquewines.com.au