A Room Full of Gold: Australian Boutique Winemakers Trade Mission in HK

23 October 2014: Without the deep pockets, production volumes and international marketing panache of the big brands, it remains a challenging task for boutique wineries from Australia to reach out to export markets.  This year, with the sponsorship from Austrade, Judith Kennedy, CEO of the Association of Australian Boutique Winemakers Inc. (AABW) was able to embark on a sales mission into Hong Kong, joined by 7 Trophy winners and 3 Gold Medal winners.  Through a series of trade tastings, master classes and a degustation trophy dinner, trophy and medal winners were able to present their range of wines, including the winners, to local media and potential importers.   The Boutique Wine Awards is the only show in Australia where the top size limit is 250 tonnes, and they uniquely support the small and independent winemakers.

We certainly benefitted from this opportunity to taste these wines, made with such passion and dedication, and completely expressive of the personality of the winemaker, and regional characteristics. As Nick Bulleid MW, one of the speakers at the master classes, pointed out, Australia started making wine in 1874 but they had come through a long journey to more precisely map out where best to grow different varietals.  For instance, Riverina makes great botrytised wines, in the style of Sauternes, but it would never be able to make great Cabernet Sauvignon or Shiraz, even if it tried!  Nick himself makes a Pinot Noir at 910 metres altitude in Laggan, in the chilly Southern Tablelands of New South Wales (winery name Hatherleigh).....where he in some years has seen inches of snow in his 1 hectare vineyard.

It was not possible to attend all 4 of the master classes.  So I attended 2 of them: 1) Classic Aussie Varietals, Boutique Style; and 2) Terroir makes all the difference: West v South Showcase.  I was very impressed by the elegance, delineation, detail, clear regional definition and varietal expression of the wines in both master classes.  

Robert Fiumara from Lillypilly Estate (standing) and Nick Bulleid MW (seated)

Then there were the personal stories....Robert Fiumara, Owner and Winemaker of Lillypilly Estate in Riverina, told us that his father planted vines in 1972 when he was in 3rd form (about 8 years old), and in effect chose Robert's career for him!  His father made their first wine in 1982.  Lillypilly's Noble Blend Sauvignon Blanc/Semillon 2011 (Trophy winner in the Sweet Wines class) was a beautifully crafted Sauternes-style botrytised wine, without any use of oak (74% Sauvignon Blanc/26% Semillon).  Intense aromas of apricot, marmalade, candied orange peel, barley sugar.  Luscious, balanced by refreshing acidity and a light tannin, which ensured a drying sensation on the palate.  The estate makes about 1000 cases in an average year.

From right to left: Rhythm Stick Red Robin Riesling 2013 (Clare Valley, SA), Grove Estate Nebbiolo 2013 (Hilltops, NSW), Smallwater Estate Shiraz 2013 (Geographe, WA), Lillypilly Estate Noble Blend 2011 (Riverina, NSW), Stanton & Killeen Rare Topaque (Rutherglen, Victoria) 

Established in 1875, Stanton and Killeen has probably the longest history amongst the boutique wineries present at this trade mission in Hong Kong.  Now run by the 7th generation, 2015 will mark their 140th anniversary.  Stanton and Killeen has built its reputation on full-bodied reds, luscious fortified wines including Portuguese style ports and a range of Muscats and Topaques (previously known as Tokays), and also a dry red blend based on Douro varietals.  CEO Wendy Killeen successfully wooed the audience with sips of the nectar of her winery, the Rare Topaque (Trophy winner of the fortified class). Made with Muscadelle, and aged for over 30 year, this epitomises craftsmanship and singular dedication.  Rare by name and nature, this Rare Topaque represents less than 1% of the winery's production. It was rich and opulent. Walnut, date, prune and toffee flavours coated the palate, and lingered for quite a few minutes!  A most memorable wine of the tasting!

Wendy Killeen of Stanton and Killeen

The West versus South Australia tastings just reminded us that there was no one terroir for Australia, nor even within a state: Clare Valley, Langhorne Creek and Adelaide Hills from South Australia all have their unique climate, soil and stylistic characteristics, demonstrated by some very well-defined wines as Tagai Scar Tree Shiraz 2012 and Rhythm Stick's Red Robin Riesling 2013.  And Geographe is not quite the same as Margaret River.......and what a fine example of Margaret River's terroir was Woody Nook's Single Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot 2012, with the vines planted in 1982.

From right to left: Talisman Riesling 2013 (Geographe, WA), Rhythm Stick Red Robin Riesling 2013 (Clare Valley, SA), Smallwater Estate Shiraz 2013 (Geographe, WA), Tagai Scar Tree Shiraz 2012 (Langhorne Creek, SA), Woody Nook Single Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot 2013 (Margaret River, WA), Anvers Brabo Cabernet Sauvignon 2013 (Adelaide Hills, SA)

Australia has recently seen its range of wines augmented by a number of European and South American varietals....when asked which ones had shown the most promise, Nick Bulleid thought that the best examples he had tasted were Tempranillo, Arneis, Sangiovese and Vermentino, when grown in ideal soil and climate conditions.  He also had high hopes for Mencia!

Extremely professionally organised, Austrade did a brilliant job in helping these small 'guys' reach out to markets normally beyond their reach!  So may this effort continue!

For full details of the trophy and medal winners, please refer to: boutiquewines.com.au

Musigny Dinner

24 October 2014: Special bottles are to be shared and what better way to share than to arrange a BYO dinner around the theme of Musigny.  It was a real privilege to be included in this dinner.

We started with 2 champagnes:

Selosse Version Originale.: (From the vineyards of Avize and Cramant, on the hillsides.) A medium golden robe. Mature oxidative nose of toast, shortbread, pear preserve, honey and acacia. Some spicy richness on the texture.  Finishes a little abrupt, not so exciting. 16/20

1980 Dom Perignon: Also golden in colour.  Ginger shortbread, liquorice, toast, honey and mineral, with a lovely saline quality on the palate. Mature, but still retaining a good energy level and very engaging this evening.  Medium body, finishes very long. A fine mature champagne without being outstanding. 17/20

2000 Bourgogne Blanc, de Vogüé: Minerality dominates the still firm palate, complemented by nuances of almond, toast, ripe pear, apple and citrus. Medium body, well-delineated, a nicely rounded mouthfeel, with weight to match and crisp acidity to balance.  Finishes long. Very fine effort for the vintage. Definitely drinking well now!  17.5/20

1971 Remoissenet Musigny: Pale garnet.  Notes of dry leaves, rose petals and nutmeg. Silky palate, with a lovely texture and some weight. Structure and balance impeccable for the age. Medium finish. An excellent example. 18.5/20

1978 De Vogüé, Musigny: unfortunately suffered from cork taint!

1979 De Vogüé, Musigny: Some noticeable volatile acidity on finish.  Still showing lovely complexity of sous-bois, earth, truffle and tea leaves.  Elegantly presented. Finishes a bit dry. To be drunk now. 15.5/20

1987 De Vogüé Musigny: A light weight version of the wine, but still featuring the hallmarks of Musigny.  Silky palate and beautiful balance and aromatics, if you do not mind the slight bretty character. Overall impression, a little rustic in style, lacking in charm, but well made for the vintage and nicely aged. 16/20

1985 Roumier Musigny: Sensational in one word. Savoury, freshness, plum, spice, mushroom. Silky palate, bright acidity, very long finish. Utterly harmonious. A very stylish and expressive wine crafted to perfection with a long life ahead. Drink now and over next 15+ years. 20/20

2003 Prieur Musigny: It is so unfair to try this immediately after the 1985 Roumier.  Very plum like, black cherry, some cloves and nutmeg spice. An opulent style, still quite muscular......though this might seem a bit brutish immediately after the super-elegant and captivating 85 Roumier. 16/20

1996 De Vogüé Musigny: Still showing lovely cherry fruit, good concentration, still youthful, try again in 4-5 years time, when the elements are more in harmony with each other. 17.5/20  (Interestingly, on the red capsule of this bottle, it actually said Bonnes Mares.....but we had checked with the domaine....which confirmed that if the cork said Musigny, this was definitely Musigny....just a labelling error!)

To finish, 

2005 L'Extravagant, Doisy Daëne (half bottle): (65% Semillon and 35% Sauvignon Blanc)  This was very rich and intense, but beautifully balanced and did not leave you with a heaviness on the palate. Extraordinary effort. 19/20

2002 Leroy Savigny Les Narbantons hitting the perfect note!

19 October 2014:

2002 Leroy Savigny-les-Beaune Les Narbantons
Garnet hue. Pure intense bright pinot fruit of raspberry and violet, sous-bois, truffle, cinnamon, nutmeg, five spice and tea leaves. Silky and supple palate, vibrant acidity, but already very harmonious and attractive. An exceptional Savigny Premier Cru that has aromatic complexity, depth and character, and a lovely mid-length finish, showing just a hint of dryness. Drinking at peak now and over next 5 - 6+ years. 17.5/20

2003 Corton Charlemagne, de la Vougeraie
Golden colour. Honey, braised pear, roasted hazelnut, with ripe tropical pineapple and mango notes and acacia flowers. A rich luscious style, lowish acidity, finishes long with honeyed liquorice nuances. Great with foie gras or a rich creamy lobster dish.  Drink now. 16/20

Jacquesson and Guy de Chassey

15 Oct 2014: This week I attended two champagne tastings, both held at China Tang restaurant. The first was a lunch with Jean-Hervé Chiquet from Jacquesson. Jacquesson is based in Dizy, Vallée de La Marne. Now run by brothers Jean-Hervé and Laurent, who own 28 hectares (located in Dizy, Aÿ, Hautvillers and Avize) and have access to 8 further hectares under long-term contract. They produce around 270,00 bottles every year and they practise organic viticulture on some vineyards.

Jean-Hervé Chiquet

Jean-Hervé joked at lunch that they made champagne for their two best customers: him and his brother! Joking aside, this underscored the passion they both demonstrate in crafting only the best products, not compromised by any regulations. In 2000, they decided to replace the non-vintage champagne concept which would require a consistent style year after year, with a champagne that showed best the vintage's individual character, complemented by some reserve wine (now usually from the previous year). This gave rise to the first of the series of numbered cuvée. Cuvée 728 was thus named, as it was the 728th wine that was made by the house in the centenary, and was based on the opulence of the 2000 vintage. Cuvée 729 was much more challenging, being based on the 2001 vintage, but cuvée 730, based on the exceptional 2002 vintage, was definitely one of their finest signatures.

We started lunch with the Cuvée 736, based on the 2008 vintage, with 55% Chardonnay, 19% Pinot Noir and 18% Meunier. Dosage was very low at 1.5g/litre. Disgorged in March 2013. This was linear and elegant, with notes of apple, pear, toast, hint of almond, and a mineral-laden palate. The palate had an understated roundness, to balance the vibrancy of the vintage. Finish was clean and crisp. I think the best is still to come with this cuvée...so hold onto a few bottles to see how they continue to evolve over the next 10+ years!

The Cuvée 737 was based on the more sumptuous 2009 vintage. Ripe pear, marzipan and honey filled the bouquet and palate. Mouthfilling and gourmand in texture. The blend here was 43% Chardonnay, 17% Pinot Noir and 30% Meunier. Dosage was 3.5 g/litre. This bottle was disgorged in July 2013.

When asked about the higher dosage for 737, Jean-Hervé said that their philosophy was that the dosage was not used to mask any shortcomings or enhance the vintage. It was to complement the style and character of the style. Before the addition of the liqueur de dosage, they would taste with different levels of dosage to determine the best one for that vintage.

He had brought us two very special cuvées from his cellar. A late disgorged 1989 Avize Grand Cru (disgorged in 1998), based on 100% Chardonnay from a blend of 3 lieux-dits, La Fosse, Nemery and Champ Gain. This tasted extremely youthful and lively. There was still a beautiful and most elegant poise and finesse, an admirable precision, yet rich in intensity and flavours, vibrant with freshness, with hardly any sign of maturity. A long finish, almost saline. A very fine expression of the terroir and the vintage, which many of us agreed at lunch that it had begun to show better than the much-admired 1990 vintage which had started to show its age in some bottles. I would score this 19/20.


The Mémoire du 20ème Siècle was a project that they made for the millennium. It was based on the 1996 Non-Vintage champagne, with reserve wines from 1994 and 1995, and a concoction of liqueurs de dosage from 20 vintages, ranging from 1915 to 1990. This bottle was disgorged in January 1999. The nose was ripe and rich, with candied pear, yoghurt, praline and a note of caramel crunch. The richness was deftly balanced by just the right amount of acidity. Jean-Hervé agreed that the liqueurs de dosage definitely played a larger role (than normal) in defining the style of this wine. This was bold and characterful, and not a shy wine against the Southeast Asian style beef brisket curry with roti canai!

Guy de Chassey dinner at China Tang

The second tasting at China Tang was a dinner with Marie-Odile de Chassey and her daughter Ingrid. Ingrid represents the 7th generation producing Guy de Chassey champagnes. They own 9.5 hectares of all Grand Cru vineyards, planted with 75% Pinot Noir and 25% Chardonnay and produce around 60,000 bottles every year. One-third of their vineyard holdings are in Bouzy....a highly-prized Pinot Noir terroir. They are based in Louvois, in the Montagne de Reims. They practise la lutte raisonné in their viticulture, and their wines do not receive any malolactic fermentation. Ingrid started working alongside her mother in 2003 and her first vintage was 2004.

We started with the Non-Vintage Brut Cuvée de Buretel, with a production of 50,000 bottles. 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay, with 30% reserve wine. The bottles we tried were based on the 2011 vintage. There was a lovely elegance in the fine structure.


Next was the Non-Vintage Brut Rosé, which received blending from Coteaux Champenois Bouzy Rouge. Blend was 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay. Loved the purity and intensity of the ripe fruit, cherry and raspberry, with just a touch of salinity on the finish. Well-defined and structured, with just enough substance on the palate, to give a roundness to the texture. A very admirable effort for a brut rosé! Highly recommended! And the pairing with roasted pigeon leg stuffed with preserved liver sausage was excellent!

Then we started with the vintage wines (Brut Millésime Grand Cru).....2004, 2002 and 1997. 2002 and 1997 were both made by Marie-Odile and 2004 was made by Ingrid. Both the 2004 and 2002 were blends of 50% Chardonnay and 50% Pinot Noir and both received 9g/litre of dosage. The 2004 showed intensity, harmony, well-balanced opulence but not missing the mineral crispness and clean long finish. I loved it! 17.5/20   On the palate, 2004 was a more gourmand wine than 2002, which despite the toasty and candied fruit character, belied much tension and freshness in the structure - it had the touch of a ballerina, gracefully lithe and firmly poised......2002 was a lower acidity year than 2004. 2002 would be the year with greater longevity, Marie-Odile and Ingrid both concurred. If I had the 2002 in my cellar, I would wait another 3 - 4 years before trying another bottle. It would drink well for a very long time! 18/20

Then we finished with 1997 vintage Grand Cru. Marie-Odile recalled this being a difficult year, with a lot of mildew and much sorting, hence extremely low yield. The wine had started to reveal some mature character of mushroom and savoury note, with brioche and quince nuances. Well balanced, rewarding the palate with an opulence and richness and complexity of character. A fine expression of the vintage! Definitely drinking very well now, but there is no hurry at all - it should drink well for another 8 - 10 years, with further evolution in the bottle! 17/20


So what of 2014? The early September saved the vintage, and they were able to harvest around mid September....which was not the case with 2013, which was not harvested till early October! Fingers crossed!

Claudio of the HK Chapitre of Ordre des Coteaux de Champagne, with Marie-Odile de Chassey and daughter Ingrid

A superb dinner organised by the Ordre des Coteaux de Champagne Chapitre in Hong Kong. Claudio, the Chapitre's Ambassadeur, did a great job with the menu....The first time I attended an OCC event....and I'm looking forward to the next, whenever I can make it!