2012 Bourgogne Chardonnay, Chanterêves: behind this new micro-négoce is Tomoko Kuriyama and Guillaume Bott. Tomoko is originally from Japan, and she was the winemaker at Weingut Altenkirch between 2007 and 2011. Guillaume has been the winemaker at Domaine Simon Bize since 2002, prior to that he was winemaker at Etienne Sauzet (1995 - 2002). Intrigued by this new micro-négoce, I bought a couple of bottles of Bourgogne Chardonnay to try. I was very impressed by the quality - a genuine authentic expression of regional Bourgogne (the 100% organically and biodynamicallly grown grapes for this vintage had come from Maranges), use of wild yeast, no bâtonnage, and only seasoned oak was used in the vinification process (3 to 10-year barrels), no fining and only light filtration before bottling. It showed elegance, purity, clear sense of place and expression of the vintage and the grape, balance and a well-defined structure. I would be very happy to have this as house wine! Drink now and over next 4 -5 years. Retailing at HK$ 220 in Hong Kong, It probably cost a bit more than a New World Chardonnay, but that sense of place and the inimitable Bourguignon finesse was worth the extra dollar (in my view)!
Another commendable white is a village white from Marsannay, Côte de Nuits. It is 2011 Marsanny Les Champs Perdrix, Domaine Marc Roy. At just 12.5% abv, this wine surprises with a mid-weight frame, with a creamy vinous texture, balanced richness, lively freshness and a crisp finish. It ticks all the boxes for a more serious house white, perfect with the Sunday dim sum lunch with your family. Exotic fruit on the nose, overlaid with citrus, toasty and slightly smokey notes. Not too heavy on the palate, but there is a nice smooth texture, with some weight, balanced by a good level of acidity (apparently only 50% malolactic fermentation). Crisp finish. It does not have the depth nor concentration worthy of a higher rating, but the balance and elegance definitely make this a very pleasurable wine at a reasonable price. Retails at HK$ 290 a bottle. Drink now and over next 4 - 5 years. 15.5/20
2004 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Prieur, Marc Roy: this was my first bottle from this domaine, now run by 4th generation Alexandrine. Minimal intervention and sustainable viticulture are practiced here. The grapes from this bottle came from the village part of Clos Prieur (which also had an upper portion declared as Premier Cru), a vineyard below Mazis-Chambertin. The lower part of Clos Prieur has heavier clay soil. Garnet robe. Already a mature bouquet of farmyard, earth, savoury, leather notes, with some spicy (nutmeg, cardamon, cloves) nuances, prune, autumn leaves, slight sappy note. Made in a classic rustic style, but the wine has now reached its plateau of maturity, showing a smooth medium-bodied texture, with a richness and elegance perhaps not quite expected of 2004, but without the concentration and depth of character worthy of a Premier Cru. Medium length finish. Drink now and over next 2 - 3 years. Retails at HK$ 490 a bottle. I would score this 16/20.
2006 Chambolle-Musigny, Roumier: This village wine contains some premier cru Fuées juice. Fresh acidity, silky texture and refined elegance are distinct features of this wine. Some tertiary notes have started to appear: mushroom and earth accompanying the classic pure and ripe red fruit notes of raspberry and plum. Medium bodied, some concentration on palate and good length. Drink now and over next 6 - 8 years. Medium length finish. Retails at HK$ 1170 a bottle! 16.5/20
And for those special occasions this week, we tried 2 vintages of Chambolle-Musigny Premier Cru, Comte Georges de Vogüé. The Chambolle Premier Cru from this domaine is typically made with young Musigny vines, usually up to 25 years of age. The 2002 definitely showed the hallmark features of Musigny, with sublime elegance, precise detail and classy firm structure delivered in lightish frame, lacking the concentration and weight for the real stuff. The tannins can still do with more time to resolve, leaving the wine with a chewy texture still. Full of vigour and energy, and packed with pure red and black fruit appeal. I would leave this for 12 - 18 months before trying again. Drink over next 8 - 10 years! The 2001 is definitely ready for drinking now but it does not quite have the same fruit appeal and suppleness as the 2002. It is more classic in style, but the detail and harmony are very evident. I would score the 2002 higher than the 2001. I would score 17.5/20 for the 2002 and 17/20 for the 2001.
Another commendable white is a village white from Marsannay, Côte de Nuits. It is 2011 Marsanny Les Champs Perdrix, Domaine Marc Roy. At just 12.5% abv, this wine surprises with a mid-weight frame, with a creamy vinous texture, balanced richness, lively freshness and a crisp finish. It ticks all the boxes for a more serious house white, perfect with the Sunday dim sum lunch with your family. Exotic fruit on the nose, overlaid with citrus, toasty and slightly smokey notes. Not too heavy on the palate, but there is a nice smooth texture, with some weight, balanced by a good level of acidity (apparently only 50% malolactic fermentation). Crisp finish. It does not have the depth nor concentration worthy of a higher rating, but the balance and elegance definitely make this a very pleasurable wine at a reasonable price. Retails at HK$ 290 a bottle. Drink now and over next 4 - 5 years. 15.5/20
2004 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Prieur, Marc Roy: this was my first bottle from this domaine, now run by 4th generation Alexandrine. Minimal intervention and sustainable viticulture are practiced here. The grapes from this bottle came from the village part of Clos Prieur (which also had an upper portion declared as Premier Cru), a vineyard below Mazis-Chambertin. The lower part of Clos Prieur has heavier clay soil. Garnet robe. Already a mature bouquet of farmyard, earth, savoury, leather notes, with some spicy (nutmeg, cardamon, cloves) nuances, prune, autumn leaves, slight sappy note. Made in a classic rustic style, but the wine has now reached its plateau of maturity, showing a smooth medium-bodied texture, with a richness and elegance perhaps not quite expected of 2004, but without the concentration and depth of character worthy of a Premier Cru. Medium length finish. Drink now and over next 2 - 3 years. Retails at HK$ 490 a bottle. I would score this 16/20.
2006 Chambolle-Musigny, Roumier: This village wine contains some premier cru Fuées juice. Fresh acidity, silky texture and refined elegance are distinct features of this wine. Some tertiary notes have started to appear: mushroom and earth accompanying the classic pure and ripe red fruit notes of raspberry and plum. Medium bodied, some concentration on palate and good length. Drink now and over next 6 - 8 years. Medium length finish. Retails at HK$ 1170 a bottle! 16.5/20
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