A Quiet Hero in the Hill of Corton: Pernand-Vergelesses

May 2014:   A few weeks ago, I helped BIVB (the Bourgogne Wine Board) organise a guided tasting of Pernand-Vergelesses wines, through a live broadcast feed directly from Bourgogne, France.  About 25 representatives of the trade attended this ‘live’ training.  I was very enthusiastic to take on this project with BIVB because I adore the expressive and characterful wines of Pernand-Vergelesses and I would very much like to see more of them on wine lists at restaurants (especially when they offer a very good value-quality proposition).  Pernand is a village snugly fitted at the confluence of two coombes at the top of the Hill of Corton.  The vineyard sites here face mainly east or south, with some facing north-east.  Altitudes are 250 -350 metres.  The lower slopes are clay-limestone soils mixed with ‘chaillots’ (limestone).  These soils are easy to work and rich in potassium and phosphoric acid.  Further up in the mid-slope, pebbly limestone soils are very good for Pinot Noir.  The upper slope is marl and here Chardonnay thrives. 

For me, the whites have a distinct minerality, floral and honeyed complexity, even spicy at times, and very easy to like.  The more complex ones would benefit from some time in oak and promise a long ageing potential, at 8 - 10+ years.  The reds are bright ruby in youth, flaunting red fruit and spicy notes….typically well-structured…. they can be quite meaty and robust in youth and need time to resolve the firm tannins.   However, you can also find them quite charming and fleshy in youth especially from warmer vintages.  They can definitely age!  In my mind, they share some of the minerality, complexity and robust structure with the Grands Crus from the Hill of Corton, and also the aromatics and approachability of Beaune Premiers Crus.

Jean-Pierre from Bourgogne!

Our trainer was Jean-Pierre Renard, our favourite instructor from the L'Ecole des Vins in Bourgogne who has such richness of experience with Bourgogne wines and such charisma - Jean-Pierre had a style that worked very well with us, even across the distance.  First we went on a mini guided tour of the vineyards of Pernand-Vergelesses, through the camera, and then our host interviewed Christine Dubreuil of Domaine Dubreuil-Fontaine about the characteristics of Pernand-Vergelesses wines.  Then Jean-Pierre guided us through a tasting of 5 wines.

The wines from Pernand-Vergelesses

2011 Pernand-Vergelesses, Domaine du Château de Pommard: Clear and bright. Expressive nose of pear, apple, toast, spice with a hint of nuts.  Good linear structure, well-balanced, with crisp acidity.  This will be perfect with a seafood platter!

2012 Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru Clos Berthet, Domaine Dubreuil-Fontaine: This premier cru site is on the upper slope facing west (in fact next to Sous Frétille).  Clear and bright. Elegant and subtle nose.  Some pear and almond showing at the moment.  The palate shows a wine still very tight in structure, but the underlying material is rich, ripe and dense.  A mid-weight wine, with a fuller mouthfeel than the village wine.  The balance is fine, with much precision….this wine is already harmonious, but it will need time to unleash its finest.  I would approach it again in 2 - 3 years’ time and it will continue to age over next 8 – 10+ years. (This would retail at about HK$ 400 a bottle.)

2012 Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru Sous Frétille, Domaine Rapet Père et Fils: This premier cru site is also on the upper slope facing south or south-west. Clear and bright lemon robe. Here the nose is more exuberant, with obvious influence of oak, with vanilla and toast showing through the citrus, honey, almond, peach, pear and apple notes.  Luxurious mouthfeel, full and rich, coating the palate with layers of intense flavours, leaving with a nice long crisp finish.  A very admirable wine!  Again, perhaps not so young to approach now, but it could do with some more bottle development to let the oak integrate better with the wine.  Drink from 2017 and over next 5-6+ years. (This would retail at about HK$ 400 a bottle.)

2011 Pernand-Vergelesses Les Belles Filles, Domaine Marey Pierre et Fils: Les Belles Filles is an east-facing site, in the upper slope, alongside the premier cru climats.  The soil here is white marly limestone. Ruby robe.  Red fruit dominates the nose….strawberry, raspberry and cranberry, with a hint of spice (cardamom).  The palate shows more than just a hint of stony minerality.  Firm tannin though fine-grained still needing time to resolve, lively acidity keeping very good freshness.  This needs some time to develop and round out the mouthfeel.   Quite classic in style. I would approach this again in 2 – 3 years’ time.

2011 Pernand-Vergelesses 1er Cru Les Fichots, Domaine Eric Marey: Les Fichots is south-east facing, just below Ile de Vergelesses.  Eric is son of Pierre.  Ruby robe. Rich ripe fruit is evident on the nose, with red cherry, blackberry and fruit of the forest.  Both the nose and palate show a good integration with the oak.  (The domaine uses about 30-40% new oak.) Some smokey and spicy notes pierce through the fruit character.  Mouthfeel is rich and smooth, with tannin still firm giving a firm structure but there is enough buffer of ripe fruit to make it approachable now.  Drink from 2017….and over next 8 - 10+ years.

I would agree that the whites were slightly better received than the reds during this tasting.  The reds typically need some time to come round and patience is often rewarded.  The wines of Marey are not available in HK yet……but do look out for other domaines who make a great Pernand red….Dubreuil-Fontaine, Rapet, Rollin, Chandon de Briailles……to name a few!  Explore!!!  (I would love to see more of these wines on restaurant wine lists in HK!  Such great value with quality to match!)