30 Jan 2014: Another evening in London earlier this month, four of us had dinner at The Quality Chop House (92-94 Farringdon Rd, London EC1R 3EA, United Kingdom; Tel: +44 (0)20 7278 1452), co-run by Will Lander and Josie Stead. Josie was away the evening we visited, but Will made up for it – the best service any diner could have wished for! The decor tells you that food is important here, as is good sense and professional service! The restaurant has 2 parts: the main restaurant and a wine bar. Our table was in the wine bar bit so we could choose from the a la carte menu (the restaurant side serves set meals). Two of us (the men!) got there earlier and immediately tucked into a bottle of 2008 Corton Charlemagne, Domaine de Montille (from the restaurant wine list), which was absolutely delicious…..layers and layers of flavours, not at all overwhelmed by oak, with just the right amount of weight on the palate, and incredibly vibrant acidity. Very impressive and almost irresistible, especially when served with the grilled almonds.
My starter was a dish I had never had before: monkfish liver with chipotle. This was simply divine….monkfish liver was like foie gras from the sea (hopefully easier on the cholesterol level?), lightly pan-fried, caramelised at the edges, served with chipotle sauce and a slightly tangy salad. Quite sizeable as starter…perhaps I should have thought about sharing! It didn't stop me from tucking into the other starters: I especially recommend the pork pie – it came with a lovely crust, just crispy on the outside, but moist inside, and great flavours.
Main course for me was wood pigeon, complete with game chips, bread sauce and a very indulgent piece of fried bread, generously spread with well-spiced chicken liver parfait. The wood pigeon was perfectly cooked, still retaining plenty of moisture, and the wonderfully lightly gamey flavours. The fried bread was not to be missed…….even if it meant it took over the space that would have been reserved for any cheese or dessert afterwards! I think the game season will still go on for a little while…..so be sure to try the woodcock as well if you are thinking of heading to the restaurant!
The wines to go with our main courses were 1953 Pétrus and 1953 Cheval Blanc (Note: not from the restaurant wine list). The Cheval Blanc was remarkably fresher and much more vigorous than the Pétrus, intensely complex, finished very long. I rather liked the Pétrus though when it had settled down into the glass, as I thought its chocolate, plum, wet saddle and earthy flavours, and the harmonious state the wine was in, went very well with my wood pigeon dish, even if it didn't have the concentration nor lengthy finish of the Cheval Blanc!
A change of wine scene was deemed necessary for the cheese course and we enjoyed a bottle of 2007 Morey Saint Denis Cuvée des Alouettes, Domaine Ponsot (from the restaurant's wine list). This was drinking really deliciously…still showing purity of fruit, with a lovely freshness.
To finish: a plate of petits fours arrived with our coffee: chocolate-coated brownies! What decadence!
If you love great food in the no-nonsense, no-fuss way, and if you also enjoy a glass or two of good quality wine from a wide selection of regions, served in Zalto glasses!!! - this is the perfect place for you! I cannot wait to go back to try the pork chop that Richard had – it looked like a seriously good piece of pork chop, slightly caramelised at the outside and succulent inside……simple food cooked to perfection! And even better when the service is impeccable! Bravo!
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