Cote de Beaune Evening

17 Sep 2013: Richard set a very broad theme to this dinner........Côte de Beaune! And so we did have a very diverse range of wines!

We began with a Roulot Bourgogne Aligoté: citrus fruit, herbal note and refreshing, a perfect start!

The 2007 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Vergers Clos Saint Marc, Jean-Marc Pillot was a highlight amongst the whites. Such purity of fruit, raciness of acidity, linearity of structure, complete with intense minerality on the palate. Lemon, pear and nutty notes frame the broad-shouldered character, with the oak-infused notes still evident, but not detracting from the purity and intensity of the fruit flavours. Rich but superbly balanced and refined. Very long finish. Definitely can be enjoyed now....and over next 8 - 10 years! 17.5/20

The 2009 Puligny-Montrachet Les Combettes, Louis Carillon needed a bit more time to open up.....we noticed some reduction initially. The nose was rich and complex, with floral (honeysuckle), fig, honey, almonds, pear and citrus. Rich and generous mouthfeel, with balancing acidity. Nice long complex finish. Probably better enjoyed in a year or so. A long life ahead. 17.5/20

The 2005 Batard Montrachet, Leflaive, was rather monolithic at the moment.......and would need another 3 -4 years to fully unwind. The nose reminds me of acacia, lanolin and lemon confit.....the palate was a phenomenal concentration of flavours....so dense and complex that it was almost too much to cram into one mouthful! A very powerful expression. I would wait a couple more years at least before trying again. 18.5/20

As for the reds, we began with 2 old burgs......which formed great contrasts when tasted side by side. The 1959 Hospices de Beaune Cuvée Nicolas Rolin (which Charles brought back to HK from Beaune a few months ago) was sensational! A gloriously rich and intense mature Burgundian bouquet, underscoring wet leaves, sous-bois, truffle and coffee notes, with some savoury nuances. A most sensuous and silky texture caresses the palate, elegantly carrying the intensely rich and complex flavours, with such vibrancy, leading to a finish that goes on and on. A very suave and aromatic expression of Beaune Premier Cru, with such finesse and poise, at this fine mature age! Mesmerizingly enchanting! Definitely for drinking now! 19/20 (And such a beautiful label too, with an etching of the Hospices on the side!)

Etching of the Hospices on label

The 1969 Santenay, Remoissenet was a very different expression. Here there's more muscle and less flesh. Still a very fine savoury and leather note to the bouquet. Four-squared but remarkably holding so well together for a village level Bourgogne at this age! 17/20

The 2000 Volnay Clos du Château des Ducs, Michel Lafarge was another highlight of the evening. A very charming nose of red cherry, sweet spices of cinnamon and nutmeg. Silky texture with such fine-grained ripe tannin, with a very long finish. 17.5/20 (I liked the Lafarge Volnay Caillerets less....found it rather uncharming.)

We rather hurriedly opened the 1985 Corton Clos des Cortons, Faiveley towards the end. This bottle combined a very fine expression of terroir, complexity, intensity and a long finish. Earthy, gamey, sous-bois still showing remnants of plum and raspberry preserve. A remarkable wine, that delivered the Faiveley signature extremely well. 18.5/20

Despite the lack of coordination, this was a great tasting, educational and interesting in many ways!