Talking Cheese with Ivy Ng: Who is Myriam Bilbault?

25 January 2019 (updated on 10 July 2019):

Riding on the success of its wine bars in Paris, Hong Kong and Singapore, French-owned and operated group, Le Quinze Vins (“LQV”), opened the much-anticipated artisanal French cheese specialist, La Crèmerie, on Swatow Street, Wanchai, Hong Kong, in July 2017. With a compact temperature and humidity-controlled "cave" (aging cellar) at the back of the shop, La Crèmerie is able to offer to cheese connoisseurs a selection of cheeses, especially the soft-ripened and goat cheeses, at various stages of "affinage" (maturity). LQV has since opened another one-stop French gourmet concept on Caine Road in the Mid-Levels district, bringing French meat, cheese, more than 1,000 references of wine and other gourmet products to this rejuvenated residential neighbourhood, popular amongst the young legal and financial professionals in Hong Kong's CBD. The space features a wine bar in LQV's signature contemporary minimalist design that opened in April this year.  The group has recently introduced an online shop featuring their most popular products, available for delivery or collection at the shop). (www.lqv-group.com)

La Cremerie, Swatow Street, Wanchai

Born in 1990, Myriam Bilbault lived the first years of her life on the island of Réunion before returning to France when she was 12. Her father had taken over a farm in Limousin in 2004 and the family then settled in this region in the centre of France. Myriam pursued hospitality studies in Chamalières, near Clermont-Ferrand. After having worked a few internships at different gastronomic restaurants, she decided to return to her first passion - cheese. Having seen how little recognition is received for the extraordinary amount of hard work required on the farm, she went in search of an internship at a cheesemonger. In 2011, she started her internship at the family-owned cheesemonger Fromager Alain Michel in Annecy, an affluent French town bordering Switzerland. With some encouragement and much support from Alain, Myriam took part in a number of competitions which allowed her to learn a lot about herself and also the career in cheese. At the National Cheesemonger Championships, being part of the International Hotel, Catering, and Food Trade Exhibition (SIRHA) in January 2013 in Lyon, Myriam took home the third place as well as the title of first place in the Under 26 category.

 

The top 3 winners of the National Cheesemonger Championships in January 2013

Myriam's cheese platter that won her third place and top position in the Under 26 group

With the Certificat de Qualification Professionnel en fromagerie (“CQP”) in her hand, Myriam was ready to explore the world. In 2015, she left Annecy to travel and learn English in Australia. She worked at Spring Street Grocer in Melbourne before leaving for New Zealand where she wanted to get work in a vineyard. Fortunately for us in Hong Kong, Myriam did not stay long and was approached by LQV to take charge of their new cheese shop in Hong Kong. No persuasion needed! At age 27, Myriam readily accepted this challenging and exciting offer and landed in Hong Kong in July 2017.


Cheese Master, Myriam Bilbault CQP, speaks to Ivy Ng about her experience with cheese, her aspirations and vision.


IN: When and how did you decide to become a cheesemonger?

MB: Even though I already had experience of working with cheese alongside my father since 2004, it was not until the summer of 2011 when I started my internship at Fromager Alain Michel (La Crèmerie du Lac) that I decided I would build my career on cheese.

At the time, I was looking for an inspiration, something that would get me excited. Cheese is a living product - we never know exactly how it is going to evolve. This is what makes it so exciting in our profession. The products are never the same.

La Cremerie du Lac where Myriam cut her teeth in cheesemongering

Alain Michel

IN: What are some of the lessons you can share with young people who wish to join this industry?

MB: Just follow your dreams and ambitions. Never be afraid to go further. Whether it is this industry or another, as long as you are passionate about the product you are working with and you do your job whole-heartedly, you will be rewarded with success.

 

Myriam cherishing her recognised success in 2013

IN: Is working as a cheesemonger in Hong Kong very different from working as a cheesemonger in France or Australia?

MB: In general, people here are less well educated about cheese but they are very nice once you get to know them. It takes more work to arouse their interest and to encourage them to taste more and different cheeses. Once they have a taste of something different, they will be better persuaded to buy cheeses other than the classic ones, such as Comté or Brie. After a year and a half in Hong Kong, I have definitely noticed a change in customer purchases – there is now more diversity. Also, here people are not afraid to say they do not know – they are more humble than the customers in France or in Australia.

As for my fellow compatriots, they are much nicer than the ones in France and they are open to discuss with you! 😊 This is very refreshing!

Space is an issue in Hong Kong – it is a bit limited here. Also, it is difficult for us to source exactly what we want, whether it is equipment, grocery products or cheeses. We do not always have access to the best quality possible. As far as managing lead time for product shipment, it can be a challenge sometimes with so many different festivals and public holidays in the year.



IN: How have you found the cheese ‘palate’ of Hong Kong local customers?

MB: They used to buy mainly Comté and Brie but have begun to be interested in other less conventional selections. They have become much more open to new suggestions since we opened in July 2017. This is a positive change!



IN: Who is your hero in life? Who has inspired you the most?

MB: There are many who have guided me along the way, but I would like to say my hero in life is my father. My father is not very polished but he has always pursued what he wanted to do. He has never allowed anything to stop him from following his dreams. He has encouraged me to do what I wanted to do, to always go further even if the road can be difficult at times, and to never give up until a solution is found. He has taught me to be demanding on myself (and others!)!



IN: What is your vision for La Crèmerie and cheese in Hong Kong?

MB: I am very optimistic. I expect that we will continue to grow. I would like to go further and not stop at just Hong Kong. We need to improve on the things we do less well and continue to develop. 

Myriam about to cut a slice of Comte!

Myriam serving clients at La Cremerie

IN: What is your best cheese experience? Your best cheese and wine pairing?

MB: I want to say that my most treasured experience with cheese is tasting the fresh cheese in “faisselle” that my father makes at the farm. Otherwise, for a cheese and wine pairing, it would be a Sancerre with a Crottin de Chavignol “demi-affiné” (semi-aged).



IN: What do you do to relax when you are not working with cheese?

MB: I love walking by the seaside or going on a hike. I also go to the gym which relaxes me.



IN: Do you have a favourite cheese dish or a favourite cheese creation and why?

MB: I do not really have a favourite dish based on cheese. I like them all equally. But I do like adding cheese to my dishes, salads, etc.

As for a specialist cheese creation, I love Stilton marinated in Port wine. I like the texture of Stilton, which is a bit dry and crumbly and yet it melts so beautifully in the mouth. Port wine has notes of dried fruit and its sweetness softens the strong taste of the cheese.



IN: If you were a cheese, which one would it be and why?

MB: If I were a cheese, I would say a Tomme au Génépi – natural, a little sharp in taste, firm, aromatic, genuine with character. You either like it or not – there is no halfway!

(IN: Génépi is a herbal liqueur very popular in the Alpine regions, and it is also the plant "wormwood" of the family Artemisia that gives this liqueur the distinct aroma, flavour and colour.)
 

Tomme au Genepi

Uniquely Bourgogne: 'Extraordinary' Appellations

15 Jan 2019:  Chardonnay and Pinot Noir represent over 90% of vine plantings in Bourgogne. This special Bourgogne wine masterclass turned the spotlight on the minor grape varieties and less common appellations that rarely make it to the export market. The class of 12 students joined me in my enthusiasm to taste the selection of wines, specially selected from the cellars of Bourgogne Wine Board ("BIVB"). #bivb

A very attentive class!

The minor varieties in Bourgogne include Aligoté, Gamay, Pinot Beurot (Pinot Gris), Pinot Blanc, Sacy, Sauvignon, César, Melon de Bourgogne and others. Aligoté alone represents about 6% of plantings, which means the others together make up about 3%.

Being an offspring of the same parents as ubiquitous Chardonnay, namely Pinot Noir x Gouais Blanc, Aligoté has not enjoyed the same international reputation as its ‘sibling’. Aligoté used to be more widely planted in Bourgogne but its low commercial appeal and difficulty to grow well slowly converted most growers of Aligoté to replant with Chardonnay. Aligoté is known for its lively acidity and notes of spring meadows, straw and lemon zest, and a crisp mineral finish. With development, you may even find honey notes. Its association with the cocktail Kir may not have done it proper justice because this grape variety has a vivacity and character that should not be masked by Crème de Cassis! But there is more to Aligoté than its name suggests – we know there are at least two distinct clones of the grape variety. Aligoté Vert, the modern clonal version, is the more widely planted and higher yielding and is typically vinified into Bourgogne Aligoté. Aligoté Doré, the thinner-skinned version that allows for a more balanced expression of alcohol and acidity when ripening, is the older version and exists amongst very old vines.

Nowhere in Bourgogne is this grape variety as celebrated as in the village of Bouzeron in the Côte Chalonnaise region. The tiny appellation of Bouzeron (1998) (only 55 ha) has made the golden version of Aligoté its raison d’être. This is an appellation dedicated to Aligoté and nothing else. The Aligoté grapes here are grown on well-exposed white marly limestone upper slopes to achieve perfect ripening. The gobelet training allows the yields to be carefully controlled. (The lower slopes are for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, sold as Bourgogne Côte Chalonnaise AOC.) Bouzeron wines have an ageing potential like no other Bourgogne Aligoté – they have been known to taste well beyond 5+ years. The perfect way to enjoy Bouzeron is with a plate of jambon persillé, but it can easily go well with a quiche and salad luncheon. Its cheese partners are Comté and CÎteaux. To celebrate the 20th anniversary of Bouzeron AOC, there is a public open day with tours around the vineyards and food/wine pairing on 14th April.

There is another high quality expression of Aligoté from the Côte de Nuits. Local, loyal practices have allowed Aligoté vines to continue to flourish from a hillside vineyard Clos des Monts Luisants, a Premier Cru Climat, in the village of Morey-Saint-Denis. Aligoté had been planted there since 1911, alongside Chardonnay and Pinot Gouges. It was not until 2005 that this monopole wine was made entirely with 100% Aligoté. This exception to the rule does not apply to other Monts Luisants white wine, which is typically based on Chardonnay. If you could get your hands on a bottle of 100% Aligoté-based Clos des Monts Luisants blanc, you would be in for a treat. The singular expression of Aligoté is so compelling here, with precision, vigour, boldness and concentration.

Gamay is synonymous with Beaujolais. Under the rule of Valois Duke Philippe the Bold, this grape variety was politically sacrificed and banned as ‘disloyal’ in 1395, making way for wider plantings of the prized Pineau-plant-fin (later known as Pinot Noir). Unbeknown to the Valois rulers at the time, Gamay does thrive better in granite soils in Beaujolais, rather than the prevalent argilo-calcaire in Bourgogne. The 1395 ban fortunately did not stretch to the Mâconnais region as the Bourgogne delimitation at the time did not stretch this far south. In certain areas of the Mâconnais we can find Gamay delivering an elegant expression when grown on granite and siliceous subsoils. Mâcon as a regional appellation can be made into white, red and rosé wines. The red and rosé wines can be made from Pinot Noir or Gamay, but Gamay typically features here. The example of Mâcon Rosé that we tried was so mineral, crisp and elegant, very unlike a Provencal rosé or one from the Loire Valley.   

Pinot Blanc and Pinot Beurot (Gris), both mutations of Pinot Noir, are permitted, for historic reasons, in a few Côte de Nuits village appellations that permit white wine, including Marsannay, Vougeot, and Nuits-Saint-Georges for the white wines. Naturally, they can also feature in Crémant de Bourgogne blends.

Sauvignon Blanc and Sauvignon Gris are the grape varieties permitted in the Saint-Bris appellation (2003) in the Auxerrois region. The terroir in Auxerrois sets this variety apart from its expression in the Loire Valley. It does not have the flinty character of the Loire Sauvignon, nor the asparagus note. Instead there is a juicy fruitiness of grapefruit and starfruit that is subtle, not overt and quite different from the more flamboyant Marlborough kiwi and passion fruit character. There is a mineral core and a saline finish that is characteristic of wines from the Kimmeridgian and Portlandian limestone soils of this northern Bourgogne region. Perfect with the goat cheeses from this region: think Charolais and Satonnay, but also saffron-flavoured dishes. Saint-Bris is mainly produced from the commune of Saint-Bris-le-Vineux, but also from the neighbouring communes of Chitry, Irancy, Vincelottes and Quenne. Total area under vines for Saint-Bris AOC is 133 ha.

César is typically a robust and vigorous variety, giving wines with deep red colour, firm tannins and intense red fruit aromas. The appellation of Irancy (1999) from the Auxerrois region permits a maximum of 10% of César to complement the lighter coloured and softer texture Pinot Noir, to give a wine that has more structure and texture in this northern region of Bourgogne. Vignerons who desire a more modern, softer, readily approachable style for their Irancy are more likely to make it with 100% Pinot Noir. (It was a shame that our wine did not contain César - it would have been an interesting illustration.) BIVB recommends Irancy as a good partner for these cheeses: Camembert, Coulommiers, Brie de Meux, Langres, Epoisses and Soumaintrain.  The producing communes are Irancy, Cravant and Vincelottes. Total area under vines for Irancy AOC is 159 ha. 

Sacy is an early-ripening white grape variety, with rather low acidity and alcohol, producing light-coloured wines. It is mainly found in the Grand Auxerrois region. Interestingly, this shares the same parents as Aligoté, Melon and Chardonnay.

Finally, Melon de Bourgogne (another Pinot x Gouais Blanc offspring) is no stranger to wine lovers familiar with Muscadet wine from the Loire Valley. It is valued for its minerality and lively acidity, and a lightness and salinity that serve so well when paired with oysters. It would appear that this grape variety had its origins in Bourgogne before migrating north to find a more faithful expression.

Therefore, this masterclass presented a very unique interest level for Bourgogne wine lovers. We also slotted in a Bourgogne Vézelay in the selection because of Vézelay’s newly promoted status as a village appellation as of 2017. We tasted a 2016 vintage – so it remained a Bourgogne Vézelay, a regional appellation. Vézelay AOC is reserved for white wines made with Chardonnay only. The wine we tasted showed a beautiful tension, mineral core and salinity at the finish that recalled the soil component of the Auxerrois region. It was elegant and sublime.

 

The selection of wines by BIVB

The wines we tasted were:

Saint-Bris, Simonnet-Febvre, 2017 (Sauvignon)

Bouzeron, Domaine Gagey, Louis Jadot, 2015 (Aligoté)

Bourgogne Vézelay L’Elégante, Domaine La Croix Montjoie, 2016 (Chardonnay)

Marsannay Les Vignes Marie, Domaine du Vieux Collège, 2015 (Chardonnay)

Mâcon Rosé, Vignerons de Mancey, 2017 (Gamay)

Irancy, Domaine de Mauperthuis, 2015 (Pinot Noir)


Each of these wines showed a distinct personality and style, whichever grape variety they were based on.  All of these wines would retail at below HK$ 200 retail per bottle if they were available in the local market. This was indeed one of the more exciting tastings I could remember, with each wine making a distinct impression, even though they all came from the same region!  Blind taste these wines on your wine-snob friends, and you might find some very interesting results!

Feasting on Italian Wines and Cheeses

2 January 2019:

Happy New Year!

Continuing with my recent love affair with Italian wines, I decided to dedicate a drinks party to Italian wines. So why not New Year’s Eve?! And to pair with the wines, I had ordered some fine Italian cheeses and cold cuts, including the very addictive truffle ham! More on the cheeses as you scroll down.

I tried to cover Italy from north to south as much as possible. The verdict is clear that Italy is a great producer of fine wines, with a tremendous diversity in styles that could suit different palates, thanks to the number of indigenous varieties, the range of soils and climates and local customs. I firmly believe the local food has a lot to do with the local wine styles.

Amongst the whites, the Timorasso Derthona by Massa probably won the all-round applause from the tasters, delivering a point of difference in terms of flavours and texture. A beautiful food wine showing honey and almond notes at this age and a smooth texture. Suavia's Monte Carbonare was an interesting showing of Garganega, with just a hint of residual off-dryness at the finish. All classic wine drinkers gravitated towards Frescobaldi's Pomino Benefizio in the familiar Chardonnay territory. The Argiolas Vermentino di Sardegna showed lovely herbal notes but the alcohol was a little on the high side.

 

As for the reds, all the 1997 bottles delivered great finesse, especially Robeto Voerzio's Barolo Brunate, the Tignanello (in magnum) showed class and harmony and the velvety texture of the Pelago (also in magnum) belies a surge of vivacity and strength that could see the wine through another decade or more. The San Leonardo was my quiet ‘Italian’ – it gathered expressiveness with time and could easily be my favourite wine of the evening. The Quintarelli Valpolicella was a quirky one to like but still found a number of admirers. The Poggio Antico Brunello Altera was a firm favourite amongst those seeking power, strength and vivacity. It was luscious and beautifully balanced at the same time. The Graci Etna Rosso was no shrinking violet and impressed all by its freshness and purity of 100% Nerello Mascalese and lack of oak treatment. The Taurasi by Terredora di Paolo was beautifully made and drinking perfectly at this age, still showing some violet character, but with some tertiary characters kicking in. (Full wine list at end of blog)

 

Now coming onto the cheeses, they were all amazing! Let’s start with the ones we might know a bit better.

 

From bottom left: Taleggio DOP, Beppino Occelli Cusie al Malto d'Orzo e Whisky, Castelmagno DOP Stagionato 3 mesi, Pecorino Riserva del Fondatore, Il Fiorino, Parmigiano Reggiano DOP 36 mesi, Gorgonzola Dolce DOP al Cucchiaio.

Taleggio DOP: This is a raw cow milk cheese produced on the mountains of Val Taleggio, Lombardia. The fresh cheese is washed to give the cheese its characteristic orange rind (with an ivory springy paste) and sweet pungent aromas. It is made with unpasteurised milk, giving the cheese a high level of flavour complexity. The pungency is more pronounced on the nose than on the palate. The creamy texture suggests a buttery sweetness in the flavours, with a tanginess and floral character. It is a gorgeous cheese to be eaten on its own, paired with Timorasso, a Nebbiolo d’Alba or a 1997 Barolo Brunate!, or melted in cooking.

The Gorgonzola Dolce DOP al Cucchiaio was absolutely heavenly. This cow milk blue cheese from Lombardia/Piemonte was rich and luxuriant. Once settled into room temperature, the creamy texture with just the delicate blue mould character simply blended into one buttery herbal dollop coating the palate with its deliciousness. I did not try this with any wine, but I could imagine a dessert wine or a Demi-Sec Champagne if you can get hold of one!

Known as the King of Piemonte cheeses, Castelmagno DOP is a cheese with a long history and a monastic origin owing the name to San Magno. Records from 1277 showed that rental of pastureland was settled with wheels of Castelmagno. In the 18th Century, it was regularly served in famous restaurants in Paris and London. Typically made with cow’s milk, but sometimes can have goat or sheep milk added. This farmstead version has been aged for 3 months (Stagionato 3 mesi) and it shows a grey rind, with an ivory coloured paste that is firm and crumbly, with herbal, floral and mineral notes. There is a long aftertaste that reminds one of a damp cellar. I paired this with the Barolo and it was marriage made in heaven.

Even more impressive was the Pecorino Riserva del Fondatore by Caseificio Il Fiorino. This award-winning Tuscan Pecorino was simply divine. It had strong and intense flavours of pineapple, grassy and herbal notes, with a persistent finish. This is a very balanced cheese, with a velvety richness that just made it so much more special. I thought the Brunello was superb with this!

The Parmigiano Reggiano DOP Stravecchio (36 months) was divinely paired with the vintage champagne. It tasted better with the 2007 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne than the drier, more mineral and chalky 2002 Jacquesson Dizy-Corne Bautray (in magnum). This cheese from Emilia-Romagna needs no introduction. This version from Agricola Giansanti di Muzio was exceptional, so packed with flavours, velvety smooth and yet nutty and spicy and the saltiness was so well integrated.

The pièce de résistance was the Beppino Occelli Cusie al Malto d’Orzo e Whisky. This nutty and piquant cheese had this most interesting appearance of a barley studded rind, and a firm but easily crumbled paste, the colour of milk coffee. Cusie is a Piemontese expression for “that which there is”. So the Cusie is usually made with whatever milk available at the time of production. However, typically it would start with milk from Alpine cows, mixed with either goat or sheep milk. This version was coated in whisky-soaked barley and aged for around 18-24 months, giving the cheese a smokey and sweet fermented taste infused with malt whisky flavours, such as fermented grains, caramel, dried fruit and marmalade. The aftertaste is distinctly spicy with a good lift of acidity. This is a gourmet cheese. I did not think it would do it justice to pair with wine. Rather a single malt with age?

This is a very exciting journey discovering Italian wines and cheeses. So glad to be on board! Salute!

Here are the wines that featured on this Italian evening:

The White Wines

Timorasso 'Derthona', Colli Tortonesi DOC, Vigneti Massa, 2014

(Timorasso, Piemonte)

Monte Carbonare, Soave Classico DOC, Suavia, 2015

(Garganega, Veneto)

Pomino Benefizio DOC, Castello di Pomino, Frescobaldi, 2014

(Chardonnay, Toscana)

IS Argiolas, Vermentino di Sardegna DOC, Argiolas, 2017

(Vermentino, Sardegna)



The Red Wines

Barolo DOCG Brunate, La Morra, Roberto Voerzio, 1997

(Nebbiolo, Piemonte)

San Leonardo, Vigneti delle Dolomiti IGT, Tenuta San Leonardo, 2004

(Approx Cabernet Sauvignon(60%)-Carmenère(30%)-Merlot(10%), Trentino)

Valpolicella Classico Superiore DOC, Quintarelli, 2003

(Corvina-Rondinella-Molinara-Others, Veneto)

Tignanello, Toscana IGT, 1997 (magnum)

(Sangiovese(85%)-Cabernet Sauvignon(10%)-Cabernet Franc(5%), Toscana)

Brunello di Montalcino DOCG, Altero, Poggio Antico, 2007

(Sangiovese, Toscana)

Pelago, Marche Rosso IGT, Umani Ronchi, 1997 (magnum)

(Montepulciano (50%)-Cabernet Sauvignon(40%)-Merlot(10%), Marche)

Taurasi DOCG, Terredora di Paolo, 2007

(Aglianico, Campania)

Etna Rosso DOC, Graci, 2016

(Nerello Mascalese, Sicilia)

Becoming Gevrey-Chambertin: a village synonymous with the notion of terroir

The last edition in 2018 of BIVB Live Training by the Bourgogne Wine Board was broadcast to an eager audience in world markets on 5 December. We ended the year with one of the most famous villages of the Côte d'Or, Gevrey-Chambertin. Boasting 9 Grand Cru appellations covering 73 hectares and 26 Premier Cru climats covering 81 hectares, Gevrey is a large village in terms of surface area.  The total area under vines in Gevrey is 402 ha, compared to 112 ha in Morey-Saint-Denis or 150 ha in Chambolle-Musigny.  At Gevrey, the Premier Cru production is about 20% of the total production of the village.  Only one colour (red) is permitted here, and with a single variety, Pinot Noir.

Traces of vines planted on the plains dating to the 1st Century were uncovered in the village in 2008. Vines were not planted on slopes until the monastic communities became involved in viticulture and winemaking in the 6th and 7th Centuries. An abbey built in the village in 630 CE, at the location of Bèze, received donations of vineyards, one of which was to become Clos de Bèze. The abbey of Cluny which was created in 909 CE also received vineyards in Gevrey and built a château here. During the 16th and 17th Centuries, the vinous reputation of Bourgogne was defined by the wines of Dijon and Beaune. Then in the late 18th Century, the wines of Chambertin and Clos de Bèze began to sell for more prices than those of the Dijon wines. This prompted the village to devise an initiative to boost the reputation of the village wines. In 1847, the village name was changed from Gevrey to Gevrey-Chambertin. This ingenious and effective initiative was followed by Chambolle and other villages.

To understand the diversity of this prestigious village, Jean-Pierre Renard, the Official Educator of the L'Ecole des Vins of BIVB, guided us through an explanation of the geology of Gevrey-Chambertin. Essentially, the geology of Gevrey is defined by the presence of two combes (closed-end valleys) which cut through the escarpment of the Côte de Nuits. They are Combe Lavaux, which is the largest combe in the Côte de Nuits, forming an alluvial fan of 2 - 3 metres into the plain, and the smaller Combe Grisard.

 

Source: www.bourgogne-wines.com

It is possible to divide Gevrey into three zones. The first zone starts from the northern side of the Combe Lavaux, continuing along a semi-circular slope into the village of Brochon. (Note that despite being a winemaking village, Brochon is not entitled to its own village appellation. Therefore, the vineyards on the southern side of Brochon, abutting Gevrey, are classified as Gevrey village vineyards. Those at the northern end are classified as either Fixin village wines or Côte de Nuits-Villages wines.) For this first Gevrey zone, vines are planted from 280 metres to around 380 metres near the climat of Combe Aux Moines. The vines either face fully south near Combe Lavaux to fully east at Brochon. The soils are rich in limestone and clay. The vineyards near the top of the slope often have very thin topsoil of marl, around 30 cm. The mid-slope is largely formed from a stratum of crinoidal limestone from the Middle Jurassic period, whereas near the bottom of the slope, it can be around 60 cm of topsoil on marl. Renard noted the presence of fossiled marl from the Bajocian period, Marnes à Ostrea acuminata , at the Premier Cru climats of Clos Saint-Jacques, Lavaux and Poissenot. The soil's high mineral content or its accessibility to minerals for vine roots explains the finesse and structure of these wines.


The second zone largely consists of the alluvial fan that is formed by the Combe Lavaux. At places, the top soil lies above Comblanchien limestone several metres deep that offers good drainage properties.  This area accounts for over 50% of Gevrey's production.


The third zone begins from the southern side of the Combe Lavaux, following the hillside curve where the Grand Cru appellations are located, and finally stretching to the border with Morey-Saint-Denis.  Most of these vineyards face east, with some village appellation near the top of Combe facing north east.  The altitudes are from 260 metres to 300 metres for the Grand Cru climats stretching to 340 metres for the Bel Air climat.  A number of prestigious premier cru climats are located near the Grand Cru appellations, including Champonnet, Le Fonteny, Les Corbeaux, La Petite Chapelle and Aux Combottes. The presence of  Marnes à Ostrea acuminata is noted here, in particular in the climat of Chambertin.  

Jean-Pierre Renard, L'Ecole des Vins de Bourgogne, BIVB

Renard gave us an interesting illustration of the notion of terroir. Near the exit of Combe Lavaux, the vineyards on the southern side are less sheltered from the winds and face north east.  As a result, Combe de Lavaux and Les Marchais are only classified as village appellation lieux-dits, whereas the vineyards that are on the opposite side of the Combe face fully south and they are classified as Premier Cru climats, for example, Les Verroilles, Lavaux Saint-Jacques, Poissenot and Etournelles.

Grégory Patriat, winemaker of Maison Jean-Claude Boisset, added to the demonstration of the notion of terroirs by talking about his two favourite Premier Cru climats, Lavaux Saint-Jacques and Les Cazetiers. Both are located in the first zone described above, and separated by a few hundred metres. Lavaux is a south-facing climat and generally the vines are harvested earlier here than for Les Cazetiers. There is a higher limestone content and thus explains the greater finesse and elegance of the wines, perhaps a more feminine style with more fruit-forward aromas, such as dark berries and spices.  At Les Cazetiers, whose name refers to a little castle, there is more clay in the soil and the wine here is more restrained and structured,showing silky but firm tannins.  The style is much more masculine, with perhaps a greater ageing potential than Lavaux.  The wines of Gevrey can age very well. Patriat recalled opening a bottle of 1969 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Bel Air a week ago for a client and the almost 50-year-old wine still showed vibrancy and no sign of deterioration. 

Gregory Patriat, Maison JC Boisset (source: www.jcboisset.com)

Of the 26 premier cru climats, Renard highlighted some renowned ones including Aux Combottes, Les Cherbaudes, Les Corbeaux, Clos Saint-Jacques, Champonnet, Les Cazetiers and Champeaux.  He also remarked that a number of winemakers had started to indicate on the labels the lieu-dit for some village level production.  Some noteworthy lieu-dit names include Les Corvées, Les Etelois, Les Jeunes Rois and En Songe. 

A village with so much prestige to its name has only the reputation of its wines to defend and sustain. The current generation is working hard at ensuring the quality of the soils.  Nicolas Rossignol of Domaine Rossignol-Trapet mentioned the increased use of ploughing to work the soils and control the vegetative growth around the vines, to give the soils better aeration and improved organic content of the topsoil. The village now has about 8 domaines certified organic or biodynamic, evidence that the growers are keen to preserve nature for the sustainability of this prestigious heritage.

Source: www.bourgogne-wines.com

This unique delivery of masterclass finished with a tasting of six wines, from one village lieu-dit and six premier cru climats of Gevrey.  In fact the lieu-dit is Clos Prieur, which is partly a village lieu-dit and partly a premier cru, below Mazis-Chambertin.  

The six wines were:

Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Prieur, 2016, Domaine Marc Roy

Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru les Cherbaudes, 2015, Domaine des Beaumont

Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru Clos du Chapitre, 2015, Nuiton-Beaunoy

Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru Lavaux Saint-Jacques, 2016, Domaine Harmand-Geoffroy

Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru Les Champeaux, 2016, Domaine Henri Magnien

Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru Les Cazetiers, 2016, Domaine Henri Magnien

Being faithful expressions of their climats and vintages, the six wines all varied in styles. Some showed more violet and darker fruit, others more red fruit and roses. Oak was overall very well-managed and was nicely integrated, even for the three younger Premier Cru wines from 2016.  All three wines showed an invigorating freshness and a classic vibrancy, while flaunting some lovely ripe fruit, a generous mid-palate and long finish.  It was indeed difficult for us to choose a favourite. However, the most votes did go to the Lavaux Saint Jacques by Domaine Harmand-Geoffroy, followed by the Les Cazetiers by Domaine Henri Magnien.  Les Champeaux by Domaine Henri Magnien and Les Cherbaudes by Domaine des Beaumont shared an equal third. 

Kudos to this new generation of winemakers in Gevrey for having made these high quality and expressive wines. Their work has enabled us to appreciate the nuances of the climats and the rich diversity of Gevrey-Chambertin. Gevrey was a village made by the prestige of Chambertin but its future is a living tale of application, sensibility and persistence of its men and women.

Thank you BIVB for allowing me to host this masterclass and to share this experience with our trade and media friends in Hong Kong. #BIVBRDV

Italian Diversity by Vinitaly International Academy

9 Nov 2018: To assign one hour for a seminar on the diversity of Italian grape varieties and wine styles was indeed a challenge for the speakers, Sarah Heller MW and Henry Davar, of the Vinitaly International Academy Faculty. With such tight schedule, the pair managed so gracefully to present to the curious audience six indigenous and lesser-known varieties amongst Italy's overwhelming number of indigenous varieties. Depending on who counted them, the number could be different. In the book "Wine Grapes" by J Robinson, J Harding and J Vouillamoz, the authors attributed 377 indigenous varieties to Italy out of a total of 1,368 from around the world (I guess if the authors were to include any more, this book would need to be presented in two volumes!) Anna Schneider, Italy's eminent ampelologist as quoted in "Native Wine Grapes of Italy" by I D'Agata, counted over 2,000 grape cultivars.  Whatever the number, it's impressively vast! Most of us would be lucky to have tasted 50 of Italy's indigenous varieties!


The seminar highlighted the biodiversity of Italian viticulture, citing the unique organoleptic qualities of Italy's grape varieties and how they have adapted over thousands of years to the local terroir. Although they express regional identity extremely, they do not travel so well, hence there are very few successful examples of Nebbiolo, Sangiovese and Aglianico (amongst others) grown in regions outside of the grapes' comfort zones in Italy, even less so in other wine regions around the world.


Apparently, the top 75% of Italian vineyards are grown with 80 varieties, whereas the top 90% of Italian wine production comes from just 30 varieties. In France, the top 90% of French wine is made from 15 varieties and in the US, only 9 varieties. Just think about that for one moment.


We tasted 3 white wines and 3 red wines at this seminar.

Verdicchio: La Staffa, Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi DOC Classico Superiore 2017According to our speakers, the indigenous grape variety from Le Marche, Verdicchio, is usually a cheerful wine to accompany seafood. However, this superior version by La Staffa is vinified in casks of acacia and cement, aged on fine lees for a few months. Bright freshness and complexity of flint, herbal (fennel), green apple, citrus, with some notes of yeast. Crisp finish that lingers, a beautiful expression of Verdicchio from this coastal region. Our readers reminded the participants that there is also another version of Verdicchio from inland where it enjoys bigger diurnal ranges, resulting in fleshier and riper fruit wines: Verdicchio di Matelica DOC.


Fiano: Ciro Picariello, Fiano di Avellino DOCGFiano is a thick-skinned variety from Campania. Its natural high acidity allows it to ripen well, given its late ripening tendency. This wine is made from grapes from two parcels, one parcel at Summonte (650 metres above sea level) and the other Montefredane (around 500 metres). Vinified in stainless steel, and aged on fine lees for about 10 months. Bottled with minimal sulphur, with no fining or filtration. This wine shows its typical character of almond, citrus and a delicate fruit character, almost star fruit-like. There is also an underlying mineral/flint character. Fiano has a great ageing ability - this wine can be cellared for a further 8 - 10 years, with very interesting evolution.


Timorasso: Vigneti Massa, Timorasso Derthona, 2016
Contrary to the last grape variety, Timorasso, a native of Piemonte, which was almost abandoned for 'dead', and was revived by Walter Massa, has much thinner skin. Therefore, skin contact is essential to help the skin release its aromatic compounds and a phenolic quality to the wine. To make this wine, the grapes typically undergo skin contact of 48-60 hours before fermentation. There is an unmistakable apricot, orange blossom and honey tone to the aromatic complexity.  With age, petrol-like character can develop, according to the speakers. The acidity is vibrant, that balances well the fleshy body.  It is a textural wine, but beautifully balanced. This wine is almost too young to enjoy properly at the moment.  Another 1 - 2 years will see it unfurling its potential to charm the palate.  Definitely a food wine!


Nerello Mascalesse + Nerello Cappuccio: Girolamo Russo, Etna Rosso 

Nerello Mascalese, the high-toned indigenous variety of Sicily has always been compared to Pinot Noir or Nebbiolo for its delicate red fruit and linear structure. It makes a perfect couple with its cousin Nerello Cappuccio in this almost "Burgundian-like" Sicilian red wine. This is typically a blend of 94% Nerello Mascalese and 6% Nerello Cappuccio, vineyards grown on ancient lava flows with varying age, mineral content and topsoil composition, giving the wine much complexity.  The wine is made with indigenous yeast, with no temperature control during fermentation.  No fining or filtration before bottling.  This wine exudes red fruit and rose-like aromatics (strawberry and raspberry) and a minerality underlines its core, soft tannins still showing some youthful astringency. This is an attractive wine and it is only the entry level for this former pianist turned winemaker!


Dolcetto: Cigliuti Dolcetto d'Alba 2016
The Cigliuti family has been living in this Piemontese region since the 18th Century.  Renato Cigliuti was the first member of the family to begin bottling his own wine in 1964.  Their vineyards are planted on the Serraboella hill, looking over Neive from the east. Their signature wine is Barbaresco but they also have the Dolcetto grapes planted in this Barbaresco region.  There is a nice taut astringency to this youthful expression of Dolcetto, but the tannins are beautifully managed.  Violet, plum, mulberry with cherry fruit completes the aromatics for this generous and charming wine, designed to be drunk early, within the next 12-18 months. A great lunch wine with good friends. 


Sagrantino: Arnaldo Caprai, Sagrantino di Montefalco Collepiano DOCG 2010
Sagrantino from Puglia is probably the most tannic red grape variety of Italy.  Arnaldo Caprai has invested a lot of time, energy and resources into the research of this indigenous variety to tame its tannins and to showcase its inner charm. This wine was aged in French oak barriques for around 22 months, with six more months in bottle before release.  This 2010 version has started to show some tertiary character, dusty and savoury notes, with ground coffee, mocha, dried flowers, some notes of vanilla "creme brulee" rounding off the finish.  This is a broad-shouldered wine, that has had its tannin structure tamed by age, now showing a firm but elegant presentation, with soft acidity just gliding off the palate.

This seminar was like taking a peep inside Italy's vinous treasure trove, but it was a very well-structured and educational introduction to Italy's diversity.  I believe it has left us all wanting to learn more about Italy's rich wine heritage. Our speakers on behalf of VIA extended a warm welcome to the audience to join its growing family of Italian wine ambassadors and experts!

The Majesty of Soldera: A Tasting of Five Vintages

10 Nov 2018: Widely acknowledged as a cult wine, Soldera (the wine) rarely features at wine tasting dinners. A conscious and defiant decision in 2012 to become an outcast of the Consorzio del Vino Brunello di Montalcino by bottling his 2006 vintage wines as Toscana IGT has no doubt elevated the cult status of the wine and the celebrity image of its owner, Gianfranco Soldera, whose genius and temperament divides opinion.

But Gianfranco was already an outsider before he even started. A native of Veneto and a former insurance broker working in Milan, he was determined to make the highest quality wine in this prestigious region. He purchased the 23-hectare estate of Case Basse located in Tavernelle, southwest of Montalcino, Tuscany, in July 1972. Located at an altitude of 320 metres, the Soldera property is adjacent to Gaja’s estate Pieve Santa Restituta which was purchased by Angelo Gaja in 1994. The area has long been recognised as an ideal region for Sangiovese. Kerin O’Keefe particularly noted the advantageous microclimate of this region in her book, "Brunello di Montalcino: Understanding and Appreciating One of Italy's Great Wines". She wrote “Averaging between 300 and 350m above sea level, fresh nocturnal breezes cool down hot daytime temperatures during the growing season, generating aromas and complexity. The vineyards are also elevated far enough above damaging spring and autumn frost and fog, but when compared to higher areas are just low enough to enjoy warmer temperatures that guarantee more consistent ripening. In fact, most producers in this area feel they have the best of everything: perfect altitude combined with complex and predominantly rocky, well-draining soils as well as warmer temperatures.”


Vines were planted between 1972 and 1973 at Case Basse and the slightly lower altitude Intistieti. The soils are low in fertility, well-draining, allowing the roots to access depths of around 10 metres. Only around 10 hectares are planted with vines to ensure that all the vines receive the best possible natural vinegrowing and winemaking from vineyard to cellar. After fermentation with native yeasts, the wine is aged in large (50-85hl) Slavonian oak casks for an extended period (typically between 48 and 70 months, much longer than the 2 years oak-ageing requirement by the Consorzio) in the underground cellar built of natural materials 14 metres below ground maintaining consistent temperature of 13°C and humidity of 85%. The wine receives minimum intervention with racking being the only intervention. No pressing, fining or filtration, and only minimal sulphites are added. Gianfranco and Graziella Soldera believe in respect for the soil and the biodiversity and sustainability of the environment to nurture healthy vines. At Case Basse the vineyards are planted in a complex ecosystem, made up of a wide variety of other plants, animals and insects. The botanical garden created by Graziella is widely acclaimed to be of extraordinary beauty.


The first vintage of the Soldera Brunello was 1977, commercialised in 1982. Soldera also produced a Brunello di Montalcino Riserva in the best vintages, until 2006. In 2008, a group of prominent producers were accused of blending other grape varieties to make Brunello, which by law should be a 100% Sangiovese wine. This became known as the Brunellogate. As a defiant gesture to protest against the Consorzio, Soldera decided to bottle his wines as Toscana IGT Soldera 100% Sangiovese dall’Azienda Agricola Case Basse® from the 2006 vintage (commercialised in 2012), as a message that the winery’s name was sufficient guarantee of quality.


Approximately 600 hectolitres or the equivalent of 85,000 bottles of wine from the vintages between 2007 and 2012 ended up on the floors of Soldera’s cantina in December 2012 as a result of an act of vandalism committed by a disgruntled employee who opened the valves of 10 casks of wine and drained these casks. The 2010 vintage suffered the most. Only 450 litres were left of the 2010 vintage. As a result, Gianfranco decided to only bottle the 2010 vintage in large formats (3,5, 6, 9, 12 and 15 litres) to be sold at specifically held auctions in aid of sick and poor children. Prices for Soldera wines (particularly for these vintages) skyrocketed as a result. (To illustrate, according to wine-searcher.com, a bottle of 2013 Soldera would cost around US$435, cf Gaja Pieve Santa Restituta 'Sugarille' at around US$ 135 a bottle or 2013 Castello Banfi Poggio alle Mura Brunello di Montalcino DOCG at around US$55 a bottle.  But price for wine is such a subjective measure!  These prices are for illustration only.)


Our very special wine dinner featured Soldera wines from the vintages 2006 to 2012, with the noticeable absence of the 2010 vintage, for the reason explained above. And to make it more special, we paired with Chinese dishes!

We started with a magnificent magnum of 1996 Pol Roger Extra Cuvée de Réserve. A beautifully aged champagne, with layers upon layers of umami and sweet spicy nuances, revealing notes of field mushroom, toast, honey, nougat, pear compote, marzipan and hint of candied ginger. The creamy mousse caresses the palate and leaves with a persistent finish. Glorious champagne, gracefully mature and deftly balanced. At a most harmonious place now! 19/20

 

The next wine was 2011 Meursault Clos des Bouchères, Roulot. I paired this wine with a curry-flavoured crab meat baked in its shell. This bottle showed much more ripe/bruised fruit than the bottle of village Meursault of the same vintage by Roulot that we opened earlier in the week. There is a moderated freshness despite the rounded texture of the wine, showing notes of hazelnut, cardamom, curry and honey. Overall, it lacks energy and seems much more evolved. But the coincidentally perfect pairing with the curry-flavoured crab meat was serendipity! Based on this bottle, drink now! 16.5/20

2006 Soldera: The earlier reductive note slowly dissipated with aeration in the glass. This is a wine of immense proportions that have now settled into a beautiful harmonious vinous state, showing velvety texture of well-honed freshness and supple tannins. Complementing the fruity notes of kirsch, dark plums and damask rose, are savoury and spicy notes of bacon, tar, cigar tobacco and liquorice. It is sensual and seductive, intense and persistent. Drink now and over next 10-15+years. 18.5/20


2007 Soldera: Here we find more herbal (tea leaves and mint) and dusty notes amidst the vibrant fruity notes of cherry, pomegranate and cranberry. The tannins were more delicate here but well-integrated into a silky texture. This made a strident contrast with the 2006. There was a ballerina elegance, aromatic purity and subtlety that transcended the appreciation of the wine. Drink now and over next 8-10+ years. 18/20


2008 Soldera: This demonstrates a return to the 2006 style. At this stage, it shows a hefty structure with a concentration of supple tannins, ripe and intense fruit flavours of dark cherries and plums, overlaid with savoury and wild herb notes. A distinct minerality fills the core of the wine, throughout the palate, that belies its bold and opulent first impression. This is a wine for the very long haul. Drink now and over next 15-20+ years. 19/20


2009 Soldera: Despite the warm vintage, there is a vibrancy and fruit purity that seems at odds with the vintage characteristics. The redcurrant and cherry fruit is ripe and succulent, but not overripe. Herbal and savoury notes adorn the layers, adding tea leaves, heather, violet and an exotic mocha nuance to the wine. This wine has an energy, purity, precision and finesse that makes it so enigmatic. Drink now and over next 10-15+ years. 18.5/20


2011 Soldera: A plethora of aromas and flavours leap out of this beauty. Red plums, kirsch, black cherries, blackberry, damask rose, tea leaves, wild herbs, sweet earth and liquorice are the immediate characters as the wine continues to evolve in the glass. Everything is in perfect proportion here giving a very harmonious picture of beauty and gratification. Underlying it all is a masterly crafted precision and balance that is so well managed in this warm vintage. This wine kisses the palate and leaves with a persistent aftertaste. Not quite in the same style as the 2006 and 2008 but I find a much more harmonious equilibrium here without losing the Soldera qualities. Drink now and over next 15-20+ years. 19/20


2012 Soldera: very sadly this met the fate of cork taint!


I thought it would be hard to ask everyone to come up with his/her top wine, but trying to come up with two top wines seemed equally challenging! In the end, 2006 and 2011 received the most votes, with 2008 closely following.  Were they Burgundian in style?  I would say they have their own unique elegance, finesse and harmony.  They are creations of passion and respect, crafted in this particular piece of Tuscany with its distinct terroir and ecosystem. 


Not having tasted these wines before, it was difficult to try and pair dishes exactly with each vintage.  So I put together a menu with a selection of dishes that could possibly work with most of the wines. The pan-fried Angus beef with garlic was a China Club signature dish that went particularly well with the 2006 and 2008 Soldera.  I thought there was a nice complement between the pork and lotus root patties and the 2007 Soldera. The chicken baked in rock salt was simply too succulent and delicious to complicate it with any wine!!!  The stir-fried string beans with minced pork and fermented beans did a nice job with the 2009 vintage, but equally it could have worked with the pork patties.  The stir-fried flat noodles with beef in satay sauce was an inspired choice to finish with - for me, it worked rather well with the 2011 vintage too!


Memory of this dinner and the superlative wines will stay with us for a long time!  And I have to thank The China Club for a fabulous job with the food and wine service! 

Building the case for Chablis Premier Cru

8 November 2018:
Chablis Premier Cru Seminar
Chablis Climats & Vintage Variations: Why They Matter?


Around 50 local and international trade representatives attended this edition of the Chablis Premier Cru seminar presented at the HK Wine & Spirits Fair 2018 by Chablis Wines (www.chablis-wines.com). The focus of this seminar was to highlight the diversity of Chablis Premier Cru wine styles across climats and vintages. Formally recognised on 4th July 2015, the climats of Bourgogne are specific terroirs, each possessing a unique identity based on the altitude, orientation, degree of shelter, soil type and structure, and expressed by a grape variety.

 

Chablis is not just Chardonnay. Chablis is a matrix of diverse styles. We start from the three appellation levels (from Petit Chablis to Chablis & Chablis Premier Cru and finally Chablis Grand Cru), understanding that the specifications for AOC Chablis Premier Cru are covered within the AOC specifications for Chablis. Then we qualify their identities with 47 individual expressions at the Premier Cru and Grand Cru level, including 40 Premier Cru climats and seven climats for Chablis Grand Cru. We then add to this complex matrix individual house styles and vinification preferences by over 300 estates in the region. Finally we take into consideration vintage variations and harvest dates for different producers. There is a Chablis wine for each occasion, and there is a style for individual preference, whether for the consumer or the trade professional. Each side of the Serein Valley is made up of a number of side valleys, each bringing to the picture their own orientations, altitudes and soil types.

 

The aim of the seminar was to emphasise this very point, as the audience was guided through a tasting from Beauroy to Vaillons to Montmains on the left bank, then from Fourchaume, to Montée de Tonnerre to Vaucoupin on the right bank. Vintage variations were explored through the tasting of wines from the vintages of 2014, 2015 and 2016. 2014 and 2016 both had difficult growing seasons, but 2014 vintage was saved by September, after a gloomy and damp summer, producing wines of precision and crispness. The beautiful summer of 2016 turned the vintage into a success in 2016. 2015 however was one of the earliest vintages, with wines of perfect maturity. Except for hail-affected areas in Les Clos, Blanchot and Montée de Tonnerre, 2015 produced accessible wines with good maturity and balance.

 

Although there are 40 climats at the Premier Cru level, 17 climats are considered the main ones, with a number of them being flag-bearer climats. For example, Fourchaume is the flag-bearer climat for the sub-climats of L’Homme Mort, Vaupulent, Côte de Fontenay and Vaulorent. Eight of the 40 climats are considered to be the most famous: Fourchaume, Montée de Tonnerre, Mont de Milieu and Vaucoupin from the right bank, and Beauroy, Côte de Lechet, Vaillons and Montmains from the left bank. At this seminar, we would be tasting a wine from six of these eight climats. In terms of production level, eleven climats produce about 80% of the total Premier Cru production.


The wines were divided into three flights. The audience was asked to choose their favourite wines for each flight and finally, they were asked to suggest a dish to pair with their favourite wine out of the seven wines.

 

Despite the terroir diversity, all the wines clearly showed the hallmark of Chablis: freshness, purity, elegance and the unique marine minerality. This marine minerality is closely associated with the region’s geological make-up that dated 150 million years in the Upper Jurassic period, where rock movements resulted in a ‘millefeuille’ of soil formations alternating between Kimmeridgian marl and limestone, embedded with a myriad of Exogyra virgula (oyster fossils).

 

The tasting:
Flight 1: This flight compared two wines from the same vintage, produced by different producers, hence different vinification techniques. They were also from different banks and different orientiations, one facing east on the left bank, the other south west on the right bank.

Wine 1: Chablis 1er Cru Les Lys, 2016, Domaine William Fèvre 
Les Lys is a climat under the flag-bearer Vaillons on the left bank. 40-50% of this wine was vinified in French oak barrels, with average age of 6 years, and the rest in stainless steel vats. The portion in French oak barrels was aged 5-6 months on fine lees. A total of 13-14 months of ageing, with the last few months of the ageing in stainless steel vats.

Food Pairing Suggestion: Seabass or yellow tail ceviche with lime and coriander dressing


Wine 2: Chablis 1er Cru Fourchaume, 2016, Maison Simonnet-Febvre 
Fourchaume is on the right bank, with a south west exposure, hence a sunny terroir. This climat produces wines that are floral and accessible when young. They have a rounded texture and tend to be very charming. This is one of the smoothest climats.

The vinification of this wine saw no oak but long ageing on fine lees was preferred, with the wine spending 10-12 months on fine lees in stainless steel vats. The location of this climat makes it easily accessible.

Food Pairing Suggestion: I would recommend a Cantonese styled steamed garoupa.


Flight 2: Two vintages from the same climat of Montée de Tonnerre and same producer were tasted. Montée de Tonnerre is a west-facing climat on the right bank, well-protected from the east winds. The strong presence of marine minerality is explained by the concentration of Exogyra virgula and blue clay. Refined and elegant, the wines also have a powerful element, vibrancy and aromatic persistence. A prestigious Premier Cru climat with probably the greatest ageing potential.

The vinification method again differed from the previous two wines. Here the alcoholic and malolactic fermentations both took place in new barrels, with the wine then aged in stainless steel vats.


Wine 3: Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre, 2016, Charlène et Laurent Pinson Food Pairing Suggestion: Grilled lobster with butter sauce (the participant particularly referred to superior harmony, elegant structure and understated power of this wine that could only be paired with the delicate but fleshy texture of lobster with the richness of the butter sauce)



Wine 4 : Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre, 2015, Charlène et Laurent Pinson
Food Pairing Suggestion: Roasted chicken with black truffle (again the participant who suggested this dish visualised a perfect pairing, invoking the earthy notes of the truffle, married with the richness of the roasted chicken, that would pair so well with this deftly balanced while beguilingly accessible 2015 wine, with the freshness so well disguised by the opulent texture and well-portioned structure)

 

Flight 3: The last flight compared three wines from the same vintage but from different producers and different climats. All three wines were vinified in stainless steel vats, with no oak influence at all. 2014 was a tough vintage and one that could be called a vigneron vintage. It was a vintage that allowed terroirs to express themselves.


Wine 5: Chablis 1er Cru Beauroy, 2014, Domaine Sylvain Mosnier 
Beauroy is the northern most climat on the left bank, very exposed to the dry winds from the east. The slopes are very steep. Generous wines are produced here, but the smooth texture gives the impression of lower acidity and earlier approachability. The wines show more fruity character than floral.

Food Pairing Suggestion: Chiu Chow style cold crabs with be perfect with this wine. The crabmeat has a natural sweetness and the wine’s rounded texture and moderate acidity would pair extremely well. I would also add steamed har gau (Cantonese prawn dumplings)!


Wine 6 : Chablis 1er Cru Butteaux, 2014, Domaine Servin 
Butteaux is a climat under the flag bearer climat of left-bank Montmains. Butteaux is at the highest point of this side valley and has good exposure to the sun, but is also a cooler microclimate. The wines show strong minerality and generosity, but restrained by a tension that is uniquely Butteaux.

Food Pairing Suggestion: A participant said this wine took him back to an earlier Chablis and oysters experience. Nothing would pair better with this wine than the best oysters from Marennes-Oléron!


Wine 7: Chablis 1er Cru Vaucoupin, 2014, Château de Chemilly
This is naturally a warm terroir on the right bank, with exposures due south and west. However, this is also extremely exposed to wind. Here the wines are powerful and persistent, with a good volume, vibrant acidity and minerality. Citrus, white flowers and dried herbs are characters of the younger wines. A powerful wine that will evolve over time.

Food Pairing Suggestion: I loved this one. A participant suggested grilled mackerel (with horseradish). The fattiness of the fish would work very well with the acidity of the wine and yet the minerality of the fish would go so well with this broad-shouldered wine.

 

One hour was not enough time to realistically explain properly the diversity of Chablis premier cru climats and vintage variations. As the Bourgogne Wine Official Ambassador, I could only remind the participants that there was not just Chablis Premier Cru, that there were 40 climats across both left and right banks, and that vintages mattered, sometimes much more than others!

Please keep exploring to find your favourite style!