Varietal Confusion!

28 April 2016:

I had been waiting to try them side by side....and finally found the opportunity to enjoy them with a friend and a big supporter of all things Swiss! They were both by Jean-René Germanier and from the 2009 vintage. Previously I had only tried Cayas Syrah from this estate, so I tried to research a bit as to what to expect. Both red, and both wines had been aged in barriques for 12 months. I looked up "Wine Grapes" and it says that Humagne Rouge is actually Cornalin. I was left a bit confused for a little while.  But to my rescue, I was really pleased to have this explained to me by one of the co-authors, Dr. José Vouillamoz.

I quote Dr. Vouillamoz's explanation here:

"Humagne by Jean-René Germanier is the Valais name for Cornalin from Aosta Valais, described in "Wine Grapes" under Cornalin.

Cornalin by Jean-René Germanier is different from Cornalin from Aosta Valais (hence from Humagne Rouge) and it is described under the name Rouge du Pays in "Wine Grapes". The unfortunate name change occurred in 1972 when it was decided in Valais to rename Rouge du Pays to Cornalin, by "borrowing" the name of an ancient variety from the neighbouring Aosta Valley. Hence the confusion."

Confusion indeed! But they were both really delicious, and very distinct in style!

2009 Humagne, Jean-René Germanier: Ruby core. Red berries, cherry, mineral, crushed stone with gamey and spicy nuances. Some hints of black pepper. Silky tannin. Soft acidity. Enjoy now and over next 4 - 5 years.


2009 Cornalin, Jean-René Germanier: Ruby core. Plum, dark cherry, blackberry, vanilla, smoke, gamey, herbs, sweet spice. Fine but robust structure, firm velvety tannin balanced with vibrant acidity. Enjoy now or over next 8-10 years.

Thank you Damien (Fleury) for introducing them to me: www.theswisswinestore.com

Under-rated Ageing Potential of South African Iconic Reds

One of the more interesting wine tastings during the South African Wine Festival 2016 was a tasting of 5 back vintages from the library stock of 4 iconic wineries, hosted by Hong Kong’s wine merchant Northeast Wines. 

The first vintage (1995) of Hartenberg Wine Estate Gravel Hill Shiraz, under current winemaker Carl Schultz, had been produced exclusively for the 1997 Cape Winemakers Guild auction and this marked the first of 14 vintages sold at the CWG auction.  The quality of the low-yielding (about 3 tons/ha) single vineyard Shiraz is largely due to its unique soil composition. The thin topsoil (30-50 cm gravel) overlies the subsoil of metres deep of clay performing the function of water regulation.  The winter rain filtering through the gravel is trapped in the fissures in the subsoil, forming the water reserve to feed the growing season.  As the summer heat subsides and rain arrives, the clay swells to prune the roots, limiting vigour of the vines during the ripening period.  The wine spends about 7 – 8 years at the winery before release.  The vertical tasting showcased the 5 vintages from 2005 to 2009, its most recent release.  Retail price of the 2008 vintage is HK$ 575 (or US$ 74).  The family-owned Hartenberg Wine Estate was established in 1692.  Its vineyards on the slopes of Bottelary Hills bordering Stellenbosch are renowned for high quality Shiraz. (see: www.hartenbergestate.com)

Kanonkop Estate has long been known as the First Growth of South African wines. With vineyards on the lower slopes of the Simonsberg Mountain in Stellenbosch, Kanonkop is a fourth generation family estate.  The estate was originally purchased by JW Sauer, a cabinet member in the parliament of the Union of South Africa.  Here 5 vintages of the Cabernet Sauvignon-dominant Bordeaux blend Paul Sauer, including the award-winning 2009 vintage, was showcased at this special tasting. Retail price for the 2011 vintage is HK$ 321 (or US$ 41).  (See: www.kanonkop.co.za)

Hannes Myburg, 8^th generation owner of Meerlust Estate, presided over the pouring of Meerlust Rubicon wines, spanning the vintages 1998, 2001, 2005, 2009 ad 2012.  Meerlust was established in 1756.   The first vintage of Meerlust Rubicon was 1980. Hallmarks of Rubicon are intensity, harmony, vibrancy and complexity. The complexity is further enhanced with 1% addition of Petit Verdot from the 2009 vintage.  The wines are released after 4 years in the winery and the magnums are released after 10 years.  Not every vintage would produce a Rubicon.  The last 40 years saw gaps in 1985, 1990, 2002 and 2011, according to Myburg. The 2012 vintage retails at HK$ 294 (or US$ 38). (See: www.meerlust.co.za)

Traditional basket presses are used to craft this elegant Syrah, with grapes from 3 parcels in Stellenbosch.  Low yields, carefully selected fruit and gentle extraction give rise to this special cru from one of Stellenbosch’s oldest winery.  Originally known as ‘Bellinchamp’ (pretty fields), the Bellingham story began in 1693 when Hollander Gerrit Janz van Vuuren and his French Huguenot wife planted the first 1000 vines on the estate. When Bernard and Fredagh Podlashuk (“Pod”) purchased the derelict farm in 1943 and set about to restore it, thus began the modern renaissance of the Bellingham Estate in Franschhoek.  “Pod” was a pioneer and Bellingham was the first to release a single varietal Shiraz in 1956.   The 5 vintages of Bellingham Bernard Series Basket Press Syrah showcased were 2007, 2009, 2010, 2011 and 2012.  (See: www.bellinghamwines.com)

South African native and long-time HK resident, Greg De’eb, who also heads fine wine storage facility Crown Wine Cellars, believes that beautifully aged South African Bordeaux blends, Syrah and Pinotage are where Napa Cabernets were 20 years ago.  They were under-appreciated (and under-priced at the time) but possessed the ability to age gracefully and effortlessly, that only took decades to reveal.  De’eb was referring to the mature Napa reds from 60s, 70s and 80s that he was able to buy at sensible prices before the prices sky-rocketed.  De’eb particularly treasures his collection of South African reds, “The Cabs and Bordeaux blends are particular cause for celebration because of their distinctly old world/French character which means with age comes the very best of mature claret.” At a recent dinner at a private home in Hong Kong, De’eb’s host produced a magnum of 1986 Kanonkop Cabernet.  Not one of the connoisseurs present spotted its South African origin, most thought it could only be a first or second growth Bordeaux.

Based on the online retail prices for the wines showcased, one might do well by following the wisdom in De’eb’s advice.

Sarah Wong, wine columnist for local newspaper, SCMP, believes that the ageing potential of the wines is under-rated.  Wong says, “All the wines shown seem so youthful still, that they seem to have years, if not decades, ahead.”

While the 1998 Rubicon has now reached the plateau of its drinking window, Myburg says, “The ageing profile of South African wines is like the country’s famous Table Mountain!” He expects the 1998 Rubicon will stay in this plateau phase for a very long time.

A Rhone Evening: 1989 vs 1990 Cote Rotie La Turque and 2006 Henri Bonneau Cuvee Marie Beurrier!

15 April 2016: Once in a while, we need a wine theme that's not Bordeaux or Bourgogne (wish it were a joke!). This time the Rhone theme made it to the short list! (A friend did sneak in a couple of non-Rhone bottles.)

2010 Condrieu, Tardieu-Laurent. Golden in colour. Oily texture with a lightness. Honey, candied apricot, honeysuckle, frangipani. Soft acidity. This went rather well with the Thai pizza starter.

2008 Châteauneuf du Pape Blanc, Tardieu-Laurent. Also golden in colour. More lively acidity. Grapefruit, nutty, lanolin, fruit peel.

1989 Côte Rôtie La Turque, GuigalSpice, pepper, liquorice, black berry jam, with nuances of leather, smoke. Very long finish. Quite brûlee in character. Layers of complexity with richness and depth. This wine kept evolving throughout the evening. Extremely long finish. More flamboyant in style.

1990 Côte Rôtie La Turque, GuigalLuscious, bright fruit character, youthful, with lively acidity. Smooth velvety texture. More classic in style. Shorter finish than the 1989.  

(La Turque is approximately 93% Syrah and 7% Viognier.  42 months in new oak.)

2006 Châteauneuf du Pape, Cuvée Marie Beurrier, Henri Bonneau

Plum, white pepper, spicy, fruit cake notes. Velvety texture. Soft acidity. Finished long and a very fine wine! Went very well with five spiced braised beef. 

This cuvee started in 1988. It took the name of Bonneau's aunt. The blend is made from 90% Grenache and 10% Mourvèdre, with small portions of Syrah, Counoise, Vaccarèse occasionally. No destemming normally. Vinification in traditional, concrete tanks. Ageing in a combination of old foudres and barriques.

2007 Châteauneuf du Pape Cuvée Reservée, Domaine du PegauPlum, red fruit, slightly jammy note. It was delicious and correctly made but did  not have the same depth or level of complexity as the previous wine.

2008 Mitis, Amigne de Vétroz, Reserve, Jean-René Germanier (18 months in new oak.) Mango, dried apricot, ripe pear and marmalade with notes of macadamia. Long finish. The wine could do with a bit more acidity. But it's voluptuous and a beautifully balanced drop.

Nuits Saint Georges: an overlooked commune

16 April 2016: It might not be the most fashionable theme but for an evening amongst Bourgogne aficionados with a home-cooked supper, it turned out to be a theme that elicited interesting discussions and interests.


From the heights of giving its name to the Côte de Nuits, and being the birthplace of the Confrérie des Chevaliers du Tastevin, Bourgogne’s most famous wine-brotherhood, in 1934, why don't the wines from Nuits-Saint-Georges share the same attention and glamour as those from their illustrious neighbouring commune Vosne-Romanée? True, there is no Grand Cru here.


Nuits-Saint-Georges can be divided into 2 parts: the northern end is adjacent to Vosne-Romanée, and the southern sector straddles Nuits-Saint-Georges the town itself and the commune of Premeaux-Prissey. The northern end boasts some excellent wines, with almost the same degree of finesse as those from Vosne. Examples of which are Aux Boudots and Les Damodes. South of Nuits-Saint-Georges, the Premier Cru climats tend to be fleshy, rich and powerful. Examples are Les Saint-Georges, Les Cailles and Les Vaucrains. Into the Premeaux commune, the wines are more delicate and over-extraction could result in excess and the less refined tannins that will take years to soften. Examples are Clos de la Maréchale, Les Argillières and Les Forêts.

There are in total 41 Premier Cru climats in Nuits-Saint-Georges. In terms of red and white production, reds account for 297.06 ha (including 136.32 ha Premier Cru) and whites occupy 9.78 ha (including 6.79 ha Premier Cru). The whites are rare indeed!


For our evening, we started with a Nuits-Saint-Georges Blanc, followed by 3 premier cru wines from different winemakers.

2010 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru Clos de L'Arlot Blanc

The terroir of the Clos de l'Arlot blanc is rugged and rocky (brown soil on limestone, about 90 cm of top soil). The hillsides are so steep that all work on the vines, often performed with the help of machinery, is done by hand here. Such painstaking work is necessary and worthwile for this vineyard of unique quality and character.

The grapes which come from young vines are vinified separately and make up a cuvée labelled La Gerbotte, Nuits Saint Georges Blanc.

My tasting note: Pale gold in colour. Intense notes of honey, white flowers, pastry and liquorice. The medium weight belies a vinosity and oily texture that makes it almost Condrieu-like, if it hadn't been for the bright acidity. It is definitely a food wine and it paired very well with the oily texture of the salmon tartare prepared by our host. It was a lovely surprise to our friends who had not tasted Nuits blanc before.


1996 Nuits-Saint-Georges Clos des Forêts Saint Georges, Domaine de L’Arlot

The Clos des Forêts Saint Georges (monopole) covers a surface of 7.20 hectares, all in one piece. It is a unique terroir in a privileged location which right from its origin has made one of the greatest Nuits Saint Georges wines. The top soil which reaches 50 - 60 cm, consists of clay-limestone gravel, over another 50 cm of small stones, before reaching the cracked limestone mother-rock.

Clos des Forêts Saint Georges is only made with grapes from its oldest vines. This means that grapes from the younger vines are not used for the Clos des Forêts but vinified separately to make Les Petits Plets Nuits Saint Georges 1er Cru.

My tasting note: Garnet-ruby hue. Notes of raspberry, dried rose petals, and spice, with just a hint of sappy nuance (possibly from the use of stems at the domaine then). Bright minerality threads through the palate, with silky tannin. Aeration in the glass brought a very elegant integration to the delicate style of the wine. Hint of volatility detected, but it was not enough to detract from the elegance and quality of the beautifully evolved wine. This wine will drink well for another 3 - 4 years.


2002 Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Saint-Georges, Domaine Robert Chevillon
One of the oldest climats, this place was already planted in the year 1000. In 1023 it was given by Humbert, archdeacon of Autun, to the Saint-Denis chapter in Vergy; a barony to which Nuits was attached. It is said to have belonged to a Saint-Georges brotherhood founded by the Barbier de Peulle family in 1470. At the end of last century, Nuits was authorised to join its name to the name of the famous "Saint-Georges" vintage.

Exposure east. Altitude is about 245-260 metres. Surface area is 7 ha 52. All berries destemmed at this domaine.

My tasting note: A deep crimson colour. Very intense notes of black fruit preserve, prunes, with some subtle hints of red fruit, musk and some animal notes. Loads of rich concentration, with ripe velvety tannin and bright acidity giving this a very powerful structure. A wine still very primary and will take another 5 - 6 years to unfold its fullest potential, with a long life ahead. A great wine in the making.


2006 Nuits-Saint-Georges Clos de la Maréchale, Domaine J-F Mugnier
The Clos de la Maréchale (monopole) has a surface of 9 hectares, 76 ares. It is the largest monopole in the Côte d'Or. The average age of the vines in 2009 is about 45 years old.

The geological stratum on which the Clos de la Maréchale is situated plunges well below the surface of the soil further south, marking the end of the Côte de Nuits, only to reappear in Le Montrachet between Puligny and Chassagne. This would explain the qualities of power and longevity in the wine.

On the first of November 2003, Domaine J-F Mugnier increased from 4 to 14 hectares. The Clos de la Maréchale, under the sole ownership of the Mugnier family since 1902, reverted to the Domaine when the farming contract with Faiveley ended after 53 years.

My tasting note: Beautiful bright ruby. A stylish wine, with elegance and harmony. Notes of red fruit, white musk, with nuances of spice and just beginning to take on some animal notes. A class act with a very long finish. Probably not a wine for the very long haul, but very delicious now and for the next 6 - 8 years.

Could we conclude much?  I would say not much apart from that the wines are Nuits are often overlooked in favour of other wines from Côte de Nuits.  So much can influence the quality and our enjoyment: the ambiance, the vintage, the climat, and above all the winemaker.  And I didn't even find out whether it was a fruit or root day in the biodynamic calendar!

And finally we finished with a preview of our friends' new wine from their New Zealand winery: a bottling of just 37 rows of their oldest vines planted in the best site.  It is not ready for commercial release yet but for sure, it will turn heads when it does reach the shelves (and the palate)!  Hopefully, not too soon as it will benefit from some cellaring.

1999 Lafon Volnay Santenots vs Meursault Charmes

14 April 2016: The Volnay Santenots-du-Milieu boasts a firm structure, with abundance of ripe fruit (with hardly any tertiary signs), velvety textured tannin and beautifully integrated acidity, that gave the wine a very youthful impression, full of energy. Unfortunately, we could not say the same of the Meursault-Charmes.  Once warmed up, the oxidative characters gave the wine a rather sluggish and heavy feel, lacking lift in the aftertaste.  It could have been been a good accompaniment to cheese.  The Meursault-Charmes definitely saw better days and the Volnay Santenots was simply spellbinding and should have a life of 8 - 10+ years ahead if well cellared!