Palmer Dinner

30 Sep 2011: Last night, we attended the Château Palmer dinner at the Conrad Hotel organised by the Commanderie de Bordeaux HK Chapter.  It was very encouraging to see a bulgingly full house attendance at this dinner, to the point that the air conditioning in the room could not quite cope with the amount of carbon dioxide and body heat generated by the enthusiastic Palmer lovers and the doors had to be left wide open to let in fresh air. 

First wine was the Alter Ego 2006, which showed plenty of scrummy black cherry fruit, and spicy notes of liquorice. After a short while in the glass, a lovely floral perfume started to emerge.  Very well-balanced and tasting rather fresh. Good finish.  We were told later that in this vintage, rather unusually some Petit Verdot had been included in the blend for the Alter Ego.  The name says it all - it is not exactly a second wine, but a wine with its own character and sense of being.  Very approachable.  An excellent effort. Drink now and will develop further over next 3 - 4 years.  (Drinking window recommended by the château around 10+ years.) 15.5/20

Then we had 4 vintages of the grand vin: 2004, 1998, 1996 and 1986.  (Unfortunately, our 1986 was mildly corked.)  2004 showed a very complex and opulent wine, despite the challenges of the vintage.  47% Merlot, 46% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Petit Verdot.  It showed concentration and elegance.  Sweet ripe blackberries, violet, truffle, and spices.  Great texture.  Already delicious now.  Enjoy over next 15+ years.  17.5+/20

I found the 1998 rather unBordeaux like, a bit more tar and liquorice, chocolatey, with plenty of rich black fruit. The Merlot did very well in 1998 and there was a significant portion in this blend. I found it sumptuous but lacked the elegance that I expected from a Margaux (appellation).  Drink now and for next 15+ years. 16+/20

The 1996 took us back to a more classic and reserved cool climate style (more Cabernet Sauvignon with some Cabernet Franc: 40% Merlot, 55% Cabernet Franc, 4% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot). Now with 15 years of age behind it, it's now taken on complexities of tobacco, truffle and cedar, behind the sweet fruit entry. Elegantly textured, well-integrated tannin. Medium body. A wine to be enjoyed in a quiet place. Drink now and for the 10+ years.  17/20

The lamb was a very fitting match with the 1998 and 1996 Palmer,  but I wasn't sure how the red pepper soup with clams fitted into the food and wine matching......