Greek White from the vineyards of Kinsterna, Peloponnese

24 Oct 2011: Fiona presented me with this stylishly designed bottle of white wine that she had brought back from the Kinsterna Hotel where she stayed this summer.  Kinsterna, named after the ancient cistern on a site that was believed to be the former home of an Ottoman judge, is located in Monemvasia at the southeastern tip of the Peloponnese, Greece.  Apart from the cistern, an ancient olive press and grape press found on the hotel site were also of archaeological interest.  It was very sweet of Fiona to bring it back for me as she does not drink alcohol herself.  After a little bit of research (as the writing on the bottle was all in Greek), I worked out/guessed that the wine was made in the vineyards of the hotel, from the grape varieties of Kydonitsa and Monemvasia, both locally grown in the Peloponnese.

Kydonitsa was widely grown in ancient Byzantine times, but viticulture was forbidden by the Ottomans during their rule of Greece from the late 15th Century to early 19th Century.  This grape was recently rediscovered in ancient vineyards and revived.  Typical nose for Kydonitsa includes quince, pear and lemon.

Monemvasia (Malvasia) was once a highly popular wine in the early 13th Century, highly prized for its quality and character, often supplied to imperial dining at Constantinople.  Production spread further afield, as far as Crete where local winemakers would mix with indigenous varieties, causing much confusion to the style and quality of the wine.  Recent research has resulted in the re-cultivation of original Monemvasian clones.  A late-ish ripener,  typically harvested a couple of weeks after Kydonitsa. Extreme care must be taken during vinification to prevent premature oxidation of the must.  Extended fermentation at low temperatures.  Typical Malvasia would show low acidity and high alcoholic level, with character of apricot, pear, citrus, honey and floral.

We enjoyed this wine over some Kalamata olives and a platter of cheese.  Straw colour.  A very attractive nose of lemon, pear, quince, beeswax and frangipane. Medium body, showing some viscosity, just balanced by acidity.  Refreshing, with some floral and fruit complexity, and well-managed alcohol level (13% abv), the medium length accompanied by a bitter almond aftertaste. A wine best enjoyed in its youth, within the first 2 years. Very good effort, and excellent accompaniment to local savoury and seafood dishes.

Thank you very much, Fiona!  What a great discovery!