Vertical Tasting of Sena vs Bordeaux First Growths

Eduardo Chadwick presenting Seña

28 Oct 2011: I was one of the 50 or so fortunate few who were invited to this vertical tasting of Seña wines in HK.  This extremely well-marketed event also served to achieve a second purpose of comparing Seña wines with the same vintages of Bordeaux first growths.  The tasting took place at the Peninsula Hotel and everything worked like clockwork as timekeeping of this tasting was perfectly executed, bravo to the staff at Asian Palate and the Peninsula Hotel. 



A room full of anxious tasters

 We started with a presentation of Seña by Eduardo Chadwick and Jeannie Cho Lee MW.  Eduardo talked passionately and eloquently about how the joint venture with Bob Mondavi started, how both families followed the vision with fervour and conviction to create the first iconic wine for Chile, and how he remembered his late mentor and JV partner with much fondness.  The vineyards of Viña Seña are planted along the contours of a rain-sheltered hillside slope in the Aconcagua Valley. Much research worked into landscaping and ecology.  Soil is a mix of gravel and loam.  The blend is dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon, and supported by Carmenère (for its savoury and spicy complexity when full ripeness is achieved), Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot (the latter for floral and spicy nuances).  Since 2005, the vineyards has been farmed 100% biodynamically.  Eduardo believes this is the only way they could produce a great wine true to its terroir.
  All the bottles were opened at the same time, poured at the same time, ie all treated equally.  All the wines were tasted blind. So it was with much anticipation, that all of us eagerly waited for the verdict to be declared by Jeannie!  The top 5 places went to: 2008 Seña, 2001 Seña, 1995 Seña, 2007 Seña and 1997 Seña.  The laggers were all Bordeaux first growths.

The overall high ratings (a number of scores above 95) given by the HK group from this vertical tasting of Seña across the vintages of 1995, 1997, 2001, 2005, 2007 and 2008 were testament to the fruit of the years of hardwork, driven by passion and conviction, and enhanced by deep knowledge of the terroir and skilful winemaking of two families (now only one).  

To prove that Seña wines were not only impressive on their own, they could even stand shoulder to shoulder (or tower over, in some of these cases) the best of Bordeaux, the 1995 vintage was compared with the 1995 Mouton Rothschild (RP 95), the 2001 vintage with 2001 Margaux (RP 93), 2005 with 2005 Latour (RP 96) and 2007 with 2007 Lafite (RP 94).  While 2007 might not have been one of the best vintages for Bordeaux, the other vintages, especially 2005, have all been labelled with descriptors such as power, concentration, intensity, seductive, charming, elegant, etc.  The 2005 Latour should be a worthy match, with its high Parker rating of 96, but the wine had clearly gone ino its shell....aromatics still prominent, but the palate was a little disappointing.  The signs of power, intensity and concentration were absent.  Aromatically, the 2001 Margaux and the 2007 Lafite were very attractive, very Bordeaux, but on the palate, both did not quite measure up to the intensity, concentration and length of the Seña wines.  Experience would say that these wines, though currently in their subdued state, all probably would need another 10 - 15 years, or longer, to realise the best part of their potential (or to live up to their ratings).

Seña 2008

My top 2 scores went to the 1995 and 1997 vintages of Seña (and my third went to the 2008 vintage).  While the Chilean wines demonstrated a lot of power, concentration and intensity in youth,  all the time underlined with elegance, I was much more impressed by the complexity of cedar, savoury, tobacco and sweet mocha notes, for the two older vintages with around 15 years of bottle age.  I felt that they were drinking near peak, but nowhere near the end of their drinking window, with at least another 6 - 8+ years to go!  If there were one thing I took home with me, it was the knowledge that the best Chilean wines were capable of ageing (perhaps not quite like the best of Bordeaux, but a horizon of 20+ years would not be unreasonable).  Another thought might be that top Chilean wines would make very worthy components of a wine collection, as they can fill the drinking gaps, while waiting for the Bordeaux wines to emerge from the typical difficult and reticent stage.



Jeannie Cho Lee MW announcig the tasting results

 No question a very powerful marketing ploy to compare the wines with the best of Bordeaux!  The impact of the results was immediate!  We were all surprised by our ratings!  I can't help thinking that it might be more fair and interesting to compare the Seña wines with the best of Bordeaux-blends outside of the Bordeaux region (such as Argentina, Chile, California, Tuscan Bordeaux-Blend, etc), that would have similar development/ageing profiles......  

Definitely, a very educational experience and I am really glad that I had the opportunity to be a part of this! 
 
  

1982 and 1985 La Conseillante

28 Oct 2011: Casual gathering with a few friends at home.  We thought it would be fun to try side by side 2 magnums of La Conseillante - 1982 and 1985, together with a 1996 Pol Roger Extra Cuvée de Réserve Chardonnay, 1999 Leflaive Puligny Montrachet Les Pucelles and a 2007 Climens to round off the evening.....perhaps not so casual after all!

1996 Pol Roger Extra Cuvée de Réserve Chardonnay:  Bright golden.  Mature bouquet of acacia, honey, pear tart (the one with lots of marzipan), toast, nougat and spices (cardamon and ginger).  The rich intensity of the flavours and the gorgeously creamy mousse skilfully bolstered by vibrant acidity.  Very persistent length.  Drink now and for the next 10 - 15 years.  17.5/20

1999 Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles: Lemony colour, bright but not deep. The wine does not seem to have fallen on the ill fate of premature oxidation - what a relief!  Hints of floral, beeswax, apricot, and tons of minerality on the nose, after the initial reductive beginning.  On the palate, the wine seemed more reserved and slightly taut, and the flavours less intense - perhaps it could do with a bit more time to flesh out and develop further complexity?  Firm acidity, lengthy finish.  No need to drink this in a hurry but definitely drinking well  now.  Drink now to 2020.   17/20

1982 La Conseillante (magnum): Decanted for 2 hours.  It was impossible not to be impressed by the rich concentration and intensity of this wine.  On the palate, the fully integrated tannin was completely melted into a body could only be described as voluptuous.  The mouthcoating texture took the sweet flavours of blackberry, tobacco, leather, liquorice, and sweet cocoa round the palate, and left you with a lingering memory of harmony and power.  Drink now to 2025+. 18.5/20

1985 La Conseillante (magnum): Decanted for 2 hours.  An altogether different style, silky rather than velvety, less concentrated, but rather appreciated for its fine detail and elegance.  A nose of raspberry and redcurrant, star anise, earthy and tobacco.  Much more acidity than the 1982 vintage, rendering it a cleaner and fresher palate.  A gorgeous wine, with a lot of character and potential to develop further.  Drink now to 2020+.  18/20

See if you can spot at least 6 differences between the two labels!

2007 Climens: Simply gorgeous, vibrant and mouthfilling and extremely well-balanced with perfectly pitched acidity.  Apricot, marmalade, floral, honey and some refreshing citrus character.   Finish went on and on.  This is drinking now and will continue to evolve over next 30+ years!  18.5+/20


  

The Misunderstood 1961 Lafite Rothschild

29 Oct 2011: End of (yet again) another punishing week, we decided to reward ourselves with a quiet supper at home over a bottle of 1961 Lafite Rothschild.  Deep ruby-garnet hue.  Tasting it about half an hour after opening, there was an unmistakable Pauillac nose but there was also a whiff of something not entirely pleasant.  On the palate, there was little fruit, with plenty of acidity and a drying finish.  A little disappointing, even for this often misunderstood wine (quite a few bottle variations).  So we waited......3 hours later (while we were enjoying a classic interpretation of 'War & Peace' with Audrey Hepburn, Henry Fonda and Mel Ferrer), it finally came alive in the glass!  In the background, there was a strong display of blackberry, blueberry and fragrant dried rose petals, but dominated by cedar, lead pencil and nuances of liquorice and cloves. Aromatically enchanting, within an elegantly structured framework of high-ish acidity and firm but not intrusive tannin.  Extremely long finish. Notwithstanding the bottle variations with this wine, given this fine example, I would predict it still drinking well  in 10+ years to come. 17.5/20 (Richard scored it 18.5/20)

2001 Volnay Clos des Ducs, Marquis d'Angerville

Richard's version of beef
braised in red wine

24 Oct 2011: Richard made a most delicious beef braised in red wine......based on a recipe by Guy Savoy, with a slight modification from cooking on the stove to cooking in a mild oven.......initially 150 deg C and then 120 deg C for about 2 hours.  We opened a half bottle of 2001 Volnay Clos des Ducs, Marquis d'Angerville.   Decanted for about an hour.  A rather rustic (or 'stinky'!!) bouquet of horse saddle and farmyard hay giving way to red fruit, dried rose petals and mineral notes.  Silky texture, with just a little bit of edgy tannin still to be worked out and nicely bolstered by fresh acidity.  Great with our beef in red wine! The wine, a little subdued at the beginning, came alive after a short while in the glass, re-energised to flaunt its proper pedigree.  Classy Volnay - understated elegance, silky texture and a feminine interpretation, rather like a ballerina dancing across your palate.    For this half bottle format, I would recommend drinking now and for next 2 - 3 years.  16.5/20

Greek White from the vineyards of Kinsterna, Peloponnese

24 Oct 2011: Fiona presented me with this stylishly designed bottle of white wine that she had brought back from the Kinsterna Hotel where she stayed this summer.  Kinsterna, named after the ancient cistern on a site that was believed to be the former home of an Ottoman judge, is located in Monemvasia at the southeastern tip of the Peloponnese, Greece.  Apart from the cistern, an ancient olive press and grape press found on the hotel site were also of archaeological interest.  It was very sweet of Fiona to bring it back for me as she does not drink alcohol herself.  After a little bit of research (as the writing on the bottle was all in Greek), I worked out/guessed that the wine was made in the vineyards of the hotel, from the grape varieties of Kydonitsa and Monemvasia, both locally grown in the Peloponnese.

Kydonitsa was widely grown in ancient Byzantine times, but viticulture was forbidden by the Ottomans during their rule of Greece from the late 15th Century to early 19th Century.  This grape was recently rediscovered in ancient vineyards and revived.  Typical nose for Kydonitsa includes quince, pear and lemon.

Monemvasia (Malvasia) was once a highly popular wine in the early 13th Century, highly prized for its quality and character, often supplied to imperial dining at Constantinople.  Production spread further afield, as far as Crete where local winemakers would mix with indigenous varieties, causing much confusion to the style and quality of the wine.  Recent research has resulted in the re-cultivation of original Monemvasian clones.  A late-ish ripener,  typically harvested a couple of weeks after Kydonitsa. Extreme care must be taken during vinification to prevent premature oxidation of the must.  Extended fermentation at low temperatures.  Typical Malvasia would show low acidity and high alcoholic level, with character of apricot, pear, citrus, honey and floral.

We enjoyed this wine over some Kalamata olives and a platter of cheese.  Straw colour.  A very attractive nose of lemon, pear, quince, beeswax and frangipane. Medium body, showing some viscosity, just balanced by acidity.  Refreshing, with some floral and fruit complexity, and well-managed alcohol level (13% abv), the medium length accompanied by a bitter almond aftertaste. A wine best enjoyed in its youth, within the first 2 years. Very good effort, and excellent accompaniment to local savoury and seafood dishes.

Thank you very much, Fiona!  What a great discovery!
    

1988 Cote Rotie La Turque, Guigal

16 Oct 2011: Ruby-garnet. A very engaging perfume of blackberry, plum, mocha, leather, tobacco, camphor, hoi sin sauce, gamey and savoury, if marred by a whiff of volatility.  On the palate, the volatile acidity was a little more evident causing a slight off-balance to the taste and finish.  However, there was still more than a mere remnant of the majestic wine that merited the 100-point rating.  Behind the silky texture and mesmerizing perfume, it wasnn't too hard to find a vestige of the density, concentration and power that were once there.  Hugely disappointed, as I was so looking forward to trying this wine and it would have made the perfect accompaniment to Richard's slow-roasted shoulder of Welsh lamb and caramelised turnips!  Hopefully, this was just one slightly out-of-condition bottle.......while well-preserved bottles would still have some drinking window left! 17/20  

Côte Rôtie La Turque is made largely with Syrah grapes from the south-facing Côte Brune with some addition of Viognier (around 93% Syrah and 7% Viognier). The finesse and the strength of the wine is typically attributed to the mix of shale and iron oxide enriched clay soils on these sun-exposed slopes. The wine would spend 42 months in new oak before release. 

1995 Giuseppe Quintarelli Amarone Riserva

16 Oct 2011:  Earlier this month, we were treated to a very special dinner, where a double-magnum (3-litre) of 1995 Giuseppe Quintarelli Amarone della Valpolicella Riserva was served - such a treat!  (I think the wine was decanted a couple of hours before it was served.) This was a wine of heroic proportions in every aspect: concentration and quality of fruit, intensity and complexity of aromas and flavours, density and weight on the palate, the lingering finish that would last as long as the time it took for the next sip.  Aromatically, the complex bouquet showed dark chocolate, blackberry compote, dried fruit and raisins, leather, liquorice, toffee, pungent tobacco and slightly medicinal. The finish went on and on, with a lingering sweet-bitter taste.  A sensational wine, that although drinking now, I suspect would be even more impressive in 8 - 10 years' time.

We also had on the same evening a 2001 Gaia & Rey Chardonnay, which impressed by its freshness balancing a very rich, rounded character.  White peach, herbal, slightly spicy, with minerality.  Quite rich and viscous, rather high in alcohol.....I personally found the alcohol level a little disturbing.  Drink now and for next 3 - 4 year (?). 

The 2001 Barolo Riserva Gran Bussia, Poderi Aldo Conterno delighted us with its bright red cherry fruit, earthy/minerally and rose petal pot pourri notes.  Not a blockbuster wine, but entirely refreshing and focused, very approachable and drinking beautifully now. Drink now and for next 4 - 5 years.

The 2001 Tua Rita Syrah in magnum reminded me of a Barossa Shiraz.  Blackberry jam, chocolate, spicy and quite a bit of sweet coconut and vanilla.  Big fruit, velvety texture, spicy finish.  Drink now and for next 4 -5 years.

It was a very special evening and a big thank you to our generous hosts for sharing with us the 1995 Quintarelli which was definitely a highlight and an eye-opener for me!

Corton Charlemagne and Romanee Saint Vivant

15 Oct 2011: Casual supper at home with a few friends.  Rummaging through the cellar at home, we thought we would do a horizontal of 2000 Corton Charlemagne and a vertical of Romanée Saint Vivant (by different winemakers).  Might I just begin by saying how disappointing it was to realise that the probability of finding a bottle that wasn't out of of condition, was less than 50%, more like 2 out of 5!  Two bottles by Faiveley were affected by cork taint and the bottle by Bruno Clair was madeirised.  Of the two that were ok, I liked the de la Vougeraie, just a touch more than the Simon Bize. 

2000 Corton-Charlemagne, de La Vougeraie: the wine needed a little time to open up to reveal its green apple, citrus, mineral nose, with a hint of dried blossoms and faint toasty character.  Pure and precise, lovely minerality, mid-weight, nicely rounded with mouth-coating texture, but not fatty.  Nice stylish finish. 16.5/20

2000 Corton-Charlemagne, Simon Bize:  Much tighter and racier than the Vougeraie's version, showing much more steely character, overlaid with citrus and green apple.  Tasting a little mean and austere still, but nicely structured with the light-handed use of oak and very minerally. Persistent finish.  This wine should benefit from further cellaring. 16/20

Then we had a vertical of Romanée-Saint-Vivants (by different winemakers):
1985 Romanée-Saint-Vivant, Alain Hudelot-Noëllat:  Beautiful mature bouquet of savoury, mushroom, violet.  Silky texture, with just enough acidity and softened tannin holding up the structure and freshness.  Tasting now, it's a beauty, classy and reminded us of what Romanée-Saint-Vivant was about: silky elegance, classy beauty, understated power (relative to Richebourg), with a mesmerizingly perfumed bouquet.  This 1985 beauty in its state now totally epitomised this description.  Lovely sweet and lingering finish, a little drying.  I would drink this wine now and for next 2 - 3 years to enjoy at peak.  17.5/20

1989 Romanée-Saint-Vivant, Michel Voarick (in magnum): a little funky and gamey, featuring Asian spice and some floral character, and a faint bretty note.  Well-made, still tasting fresh, but did not quite have the poise, elegance, class nor bouquet to endear us.  A touch simple.  Drink now. 15.5/20

2000 Romanée-Saint-Vivant, de l'Arlot: An attractive nose of black fruit and spice, some floral.  On the palate, lacks the body, intensity or complexity of the 2002 Confuron RSV.  Velvety-textured, demure and well-crafted, but perhaps a little simple and lacking in character.  Drink now and for next 5 - 6 years. 16/20

2002 Romanée-Saint Vivant, Jean-Jacques Confuron:  Aromatically very enticing and powerful: spicy, floral and just beginning to show animal character. Packed with ripe pinot fruit and fine and beautifully integrated tannin, giving the wine a velvety texture and a weighty palate. Full of balanced richness, purity, elegance and class.  Drink now and for next 10+ years.  Eric said it would be like the 1985 Hudelot-Noellat RSV then!  17.5/20

We actually preceded these RSV's with a bottle of 1989 Beaucastel Chateauneuf-du-Pape, which was simply fabulous: sweet spicy black cherry fruit, tobacco, leather, and liquorice.  Lovely concentrated fruit, showing intensity, complexity, harmony and a very long finish.   Drink now and for the next 10+ years!  18/20  (Easily the red of the evening, thank you Eric!)

Apart from the 1989 Beaucastel which was tasted blind and served by Eric, all the other bottles were plonked on the table and self-serviced.  Perhaps thinking that the 1985 should be the superior wine of the pair from the 80's and the 2002 the superior of the pair from the last decade, I tasted in this order: 1985, 1989, 2002, 2000.  As a result, my scoring could have been a little unfair to the 1989 and 2000.  I could only justify by saying that the superior wines rather set the benchmark for what great burgundies (indeed a Romanée-Saint-Vivant Grand Cru) could achieve, in terms of complexity, concentration, density and in the case of the 1985 the ageing potential (a very well-preserved 26-year-old!).  I thought all the wines demonstrated very well the vintage characteristics and the better wines this evening were classic examples of the vineyard characteristics.  I love these rather educational evenings!

1973 Robert Ampeau Meursault Perrrieres

1 Oct 2011: Paul and Julie hosted a most delicious dinner at their home.  We started with a 2000 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne. Ripe apple, citrus, white blossom, some toasty note, and with a taut minerality. Precise, pure and balanced.  Mid-weight, creamy mousse, and a very long finish.  Still very youthful but drinking very well now...Perfect aperitif!

Paul very meticulously arranged an interesting tasting of red and white for us.  First up, side by side two wines by Michel Niellon, 2004 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Chaumées 'Clos de La Truffière' and 2004 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Champs Gain.   Apparently the first bottle of Les Chaumées was madeirised.  While waiting for us to arrive (so sorry, Paul and Julie), the second bottle had already taken on some weight in the glass, showing a lovely rounded character, a complex bouqet of ripe peach, nutty, floral, lime and smokey, and firm acidity.  Whereas the Champs Gain (mid slope) was not so attractive by the time I got to it - it seemed a little out of condition.  I didn't get the typical broad and plump character with this wine.  Normally the Chaumées (higher up the slope and near to Saint Aubin) would be the more delicate and racy one....

Then two bottles of 2008 Vosne-Romanée Malconsorts, one by Dujac and the other Sylvain Cathiard.  We had them semi-blindtasted. From one decanter, the bouquet was bright fruit of raspberry and redcurrant, herbal and spicy, with some earthy character, and slowly emerging some lovely floral character.  Excellent backbone of vibrant acidity.  Very stylish and plenty of freshness, poise and purity.  The firm but fine tannin giving the wine an excellent texture.  Lovely mid palate and long finish.  From the other decanter, the wine seemed a little more evolved, revealing some warm scents of undergrowth and truffle, underneath the red cherry and Asian spicy notes.  Nicely perfumed. Very harmonious.  Perhaps slightly more rustic in style?  Medium weight and plenty of acidity and firm ripe tannin to help it age gracefully.  Both benefitted from decanting time.  Probably try again in 3 - 4 years time to let the various elements? I am still debating with Richard which was which.....one of us definitely switched our glasses the wrong way round!

The 1978 Leroy Vosne-Romanée was practically pronouned 'dead on arrival'.  A garnet-brown colour did not bode well and very soon, signs of madeirisation became very evident.  Lovely Sercial nose.

The 1990 Seghesio Vigneto La Villa was an interesting discovery.  Big and muscular, from the Monforte commune.  Spicy, mushroom, smokey and leather.  I decided to give it more time to develop and settle down.  Alas, I got rather captivated by the next wine.

The wine of the evening for me was the 1973 Robert Ampeau Meursault Perrières.  Deep golden colour.  Gorgeous nose of ripe pear, apricot, honeysuckle, white chocolate, butterscotch, macadamia, with smokey and spicy nuances.  The minerality was still very much evident.  Totally harmonious and integrated, flaunting extremely vibrant acidity, in an age-defying demonstration.  The finish went on for a very long time, with a spicy kick at the end.  Truly impressive!  I could have just drunk this all night, on its own or even better with some Epoisses and Maroilles!  Yummy!  This was our last bottle but for those who still have some, there is no hurry to drink it.....it will hold up quite well for a few years at this peak condition!  I would score this wine 19/20! 

I must mention Paul's "70-garlic cloves" gigot d'agneau.....served with Julie's mashed cauliflower and a zesty quinoa salad.....fabulous dish and it did its job remarkably accompanying the wines of the evening!  Thank you Paul and Julie! 



      

Some English Wines

1 Oct 2011: Tried some English wines recently......tasting better than just 'interesting'!

2006 Gusbourne Brut Reserve: Newcomer in this competitve space from Appledore, Kent. 46% Chardonnay, 41% Pinot Noir and 13% Pinot Meunier from gentle south-facing slopes on soils of clay and sandy loam, only 6 miles from the Kentish coast. Deep straw colour.  Ripe apple, brioche, honey, nutty, and some spicy note.  Fine bubbles, creamy and lively mousse.  Very well-made and well-developed. Good finish. 16.5/20

2010 Chapel Down Bacchus: Also from Kent. Bacchus is the British Sauvignon Blanc.  German crossing, adapted well to the British climate and soils, ripens well and does not suffer from its inherent lack of acidity when grown in the UK (where most grapes have too much acidity!).  Refreshing, lively and rather quaffable.  A great aperitif on a hot English summer day!  Citrus, herbal and chalky.  14.5/20

2010: Pheasants Ridge Bacchus Dry: From Hambleden, Henley-on-Thames.  Thought this had a slight edge over the Chapel Down....slightly more complex, with something reminiscent of elderflower, on top of the citrus, herbal and chalky character.  A bit more body as well.  Lovely acidity.  Excellent with a plate of salted almonds or a few English oysters! 15/20

I've still got a few more to try! Will report again!

1999 Leflaive Puligny Montrachet Les Pucelles

29 Sep 2011: Bright golden hue. A ripe and mature bouquet of dried apricots, honeysuckle, roasted macadamia, butterscotch, peanut brittle and intensely smokey, with just a hint of that ginger-like spicy note. Rather weighty, with a creamy texture, that is finely balanced by firm acidity. Lengthy finish. Offers much more than a premier cru....superb quality and elegantly presented.  Rather evolved now, recommend drinking within next 8 - 10 years to enjoy this wine at its peak (if kept well).  17/20

Palmer Dinner

30 Sep 2011: Last night, we attended the Château Palmer dinner at the Conrad Hotel organised by the Commanderie de Bordeaux HK Chapter.  It was very encouraging to see a bulgingly full house attendance at this dinner, to the point that the air conditioning in the room could not quite cope with the amount of carbon dioxide and body heat generated by the enthusiastic Palmer lovers and the doors had to be left wide open to let in fresh air. 

First wine was the Alter Ego 2006, which showed plenty of scrummy black cherry fruit, and spicy notes of liquorice. After a short while in the glass, a lovely floral perfume started to emerge.  Very well-balanced and tasting rather fresh. Good finish.  We were told later that in this vintage, rather unusually some Petit Verdot had been included in the blend for the Alter Ego.  The name says it all - it is not exactly a second wine, but a wine with its own character and sense of being.  Very approachable.  An excellent effort. Drink now and will develop further over next 3 - 4 years.  (Drinking window recommended by the château around 10+ years.) 15.5/20

Then we had 4 vintages of the grand vin: 2004, 1998, 1996 and 1986.  (Unfortunately, our 1986 was mildly corked.)  2004 showed a very complex and opulent wine, despite the challenges of the vintage.  47% Merlot, 46% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Petit Verdot.  It showed concentration and elegance.  Sweet ripe blackberries, violet, truffle, and spices.  Great texture.  Already delicious now.  Enjoy over next 15+ years.  17.5+/20

I found the 1998 rather unBordeaux like, a bit more tar and liquorice, chocolatey, with plenty of rich black fruit. The Merlot did very well in 1998 and there was a significant portion in this blend. I found it sumptuous but lacked the elegance that I expected from a Margaux (appellation).  Drink now and for next 15+ years. 16+/20

The 1996 took us back to a more classic and reserved cool climate style (more Cabernet Sauvignon with some Cabernet Franc: 40% Merlot, 55% Cabernet Franc, 4% Cabernet Franc, 1% Petit Verdot). Now with 15 years of age behind it, it's now taken on complexities of tobacco, truffle and cedar, behind the sweet fruit entry. Elegantly textured, well-integrated tannin. Medium body. A wine to be enjoyed in a quiet place. Drink now and for the 10+ years.  17/20

The lamb was a very fitting match with the 1998 and 1996 Palmer,  but I wasn't sure how the red pepper soup with clams fitted into the food and wine matching......