Revisiting Curnonsky's Famous Five

8 October 2018: This was a very special dinner. At Arcane Restaurant in Hong Kong, our host had invited nine friends to revisit and assess Curnonsky's famous white wine classification from the 1930s. Born Maurice Edmond Sailland in 1872 in the town of Angers, France, Curnonsky became a most influential food and wine writer of his generation. He was voted "Prince of Gastronomes" by Le Bon Gîte in 1927. In the 1930s, Curnonsky declared the following to be the world's top five white wines: Montrachet, Clos de La Coulée de Serrant, Château Grillet, Château Chalon and Château d’Yquem. And of course they were all French!

The chef had curated a very thoughtful and daring menu to go with the white wines. We were fascinated by the thought of pairing Château d'Yquem with Wagyu rump steak and a blue cheese fondue.

As we were 10 people, we had two wines instead of just one for each of Curnonsky's famous five. 

Château Grillet:

For this monopole appellation of 3.8 hectares based on 100% Viognier, we were served two vintages: 2006 and 2013, ie one pre-Pinault acquisition and one post. Château Grillet has long been a wine of great repute, and has featured in the collection of famous personalities. Thomas Jefferson visited it in 1787 and the inventory of the cellar of Château de Malmaison, residence of Empress Joséphine de Beauharnais, first wife of Napoleon I, featured 296 bottles of this wine in 1814. This property remained in the family of Neyret-Gachet between 1827 and 2011, when it was sold to François Pinault, also owner of Château Latour in Pauillac, Bordeaux and Domaine d'Eugénie in Vosne-Romanée, Bourgogne.  The property was awarded the appellation d'origine contrôlée in 1936.

Planted on steep slopes of the Rhone Valley and over 76 terraces supported by stone walls, the vines average 45 years. Detailed vineyard analysis has allowed each lot to be separately vinified, whether in oak or in tank. Ageing in French oak barrels for 18 months, with around 20% new oak.

2006 Château Grillet: a perfumed bouquet of honeysuckle, ginger and dried apricot. A voluptuous wine of intensity and concentration, with the soft acidity highlighting the succulence of the wine. Long finish. 17/20

2013 Château Grillet: by comparison, this wine showed a taut mineral core despite the relatively moderate acidity for the grape variety. The signature pear and apricot note was subtle, underscoring the youthfulness of the wine.  I particularly liked saline finish which gave the wine much needed freshness and a point of difference leading to the dry finish. I find it a very much more linear and precise expression of the appellation. It went particularly well with the dish of lightly smoked mackerel with herb mayonnaise. 18/20


Clos de La Coulée de Serrant:
Next we had the Clos de La Coulée de Serrant, a 7-hectare appellation in the Loire Valley, based on 100% Chenin Blanc, exclusively owned by the Joly family.  Vines were first planted here in 1130 by the Cistercian monks.  Declared the 'golden drop' by King Louis XI, this wine has enjoyed a very long reputation. Planted on steep slopes on thin (20-40 cm) topsoil above a red schist bedrock, the vines are oriented S/SE, with an average age of 30-40 years. The yield is around 20-25 hl/ha, compared to the permitted 40 hl/ha for the appellation.  The harvest takes place over a long time allowing the pickers to pick the grapes with the most colour maturity and presence of botrytis. The objective is to allow the grapes to express the most minerality.  Aged in 500 litre barrels, with no more than 5% new barrels. The Joly family has been practising biodynamics since 1980 and all the vineyards of the family have been fully biodynamic since 1984.

1996 Nicolas Joly, Clos de La Coulée de Serrant: The wine revealed a deep amber-golden hue. The bouquet showed maturity and complexity of toasted hazelnut, bruised apple, with caramelised notes. There was a marked level of volatile acidity. Depending on the taster's sensitivity, this VA either enhanced complexity or reduced enjoyment but it certainly gave the wine a fresh lift to the palate and finish. 16.5/20

1997 Nicolas Joly, Clos de La Coulée de Serrant: The wine showed a bright golden colour.  An attractive bouquet of honey, stewed apple, dried fruit and herbal notes. It was an opulent full-bodied wine, boasting a richness that was deftly balanced by vibrant acidity.  There was a chiseled minerality that filled the core of the wine. A wine of understated finesse. Very long finish 18.5/20

The pairing was less obvious for me as the Alaskan King Crab had a lightness to it, whereas the wines were full-bodied, though with heightened acidity.  The spiciness of the gazpacho essence was carried off nicely by the very ripe Chenin Blanc fruit though.

Montrachet: 

Possibly the finest expression of Chardonnay and a Bourgogne Grand Cru appellation, Montrachet is located across the villages of Puligny and Chassagne.  Its greatness owes much to the early study and work carried out by the Cistercian monks and the Lords of Chagny.  This Grand Cru appellation covers 7.8 hectares, and is shared by 16 owners.

The dish to accompany below wines was a Sautéed potato gnocchi with charred cévenne onion, cep vinaigrette and shiitake duxelle.  It was a very tasty dish but I thought it was a bit too overwhelming for the delicate (non-oxidised) Bourgogne wines.

2004 Comtes Lafon, Montrachet: unfortunately this bottle was heavily oxidised

2004 Ramonet, Montrachet: This was a very classy wine, showing an attractive bouquet of pear, blossom, almond and nougat, with light toast notes. The acidity was bright and the wine showed great energy in a youthful state. There was an impeccable harmony and finesse presented in a most elegant and sophisticated manner, with a core of minerality that gave the wine a very desirable tightness. Very long finish. 20/20

Our host inserted an outlyer to the Montrachets, given the disappointment with the Lafon Montrachet:
2015 Benoît Ente, Puligny-Montrachet Clos de la Truffière
A wine still showing mostly primary and secondary notes. Green apple, lime zest, blossom, almond, with flinty notes. Linear, with racy acidity and a long finish. 17.5/20

Château d'Yquem:
Château d'Yquem needs no introduction as the most famous Sauternes estate, renowned for its extraordinary richness and complexity. Included in the 1885 Bordeaux classification as the only Premier Cru Classé Supérieur in its class of Sauternes/Barsac, it has been owned by the LVMH group since 1999.  Located on the highest hill in Sauternes, the estate covers 110 hectares, 80% planted with Sémillon and 20% with Sauvignon Blanc.  Now vinified in 100% new oak barrels and aged in barrels for 36 months before release.

The chef had ingeniously paired these two wines with a Wagyu rump cap with spinach and onion compote, blue cheese fondue and girolles.

1959 Château d'Yquem: A well-matured wine, showing complexities of orange marmalade, tea leaves, apple toffee shortbread, dried fruits and honey.  There was a very positive vibrancy on the palate, reflecting a good level of energy.  The hint of VA was a positive developmental addition. Finish was dry but not unpleasant. 18/20

1996 Château d'Yquem: It was a luscious wine with a creamy texture, bolstered by bright acidity. The bouquet had dried apricots, honey and toffee apple. It was not the richest or most complex of vintages but it was elegantly presented in a nice refreshing style.  17/20


Château-Chalon:
Château-Chalon is an appellation for wines made around the village of  Château-Chalon in the Jura region.  Only wines based on 100% Savagnin in the Vin Jaune style can be made using this appellation.  The grapes are late harvested, without botrytis.  After vinification, the wine is aged for 6 years and 3 months before bottling in the squat-shaped 62cl clavelins.  The wine must be stored in oak casks, partially filled, to allow the development of the voile of yeast, which gives the wine its peculiar characteristics, just like the function of flor in the production of sherry.  Only made in the best vintages.

Arbois-Pupillin is an appellation for wines made in the village of Pupillin, just south of Arbois in the Jura region.  This appellation covers white, red, rosé wines and Vin Jaune, as well as vin de paille.

1989 Emmanuel Houillon-Pierre Overnoy, Arbois-Pupillin AOC, Vin Jaune, Jura: My first experience of this wine by the legendary Pierre Overnoy.  It was in the year 1989 when he delegated the winemaking duties to Emmanuel Houillon.  This was a deep amber colour, showing notes of white chocolate, nuts and balsamic, with a prominent saline character. VA is marked here but it is an additional positive to the appreciation of the wine. Finishes extremely long. 19/20

2005 Domaine Jean Macle, Château-Chalon AOC, Vin Jaune, Jura: This was a golden colour. Marked notes of saline, sea salt, yeast with nuances like curry/cardamom. Excellent with the aged Comté cheese. Long finish. 18/20


Towards the end of the evening, our host asked all of us to think of our own choices of top five white wines, from anywhere in the world. It was interesting how we all gravitated towards France. While Montrachet, Château d'Yquem and Pierre Overnoy's Vin Jaune would still feature for some of us, there were suggestions of Haut Brion Blanc, Raveneau Chablis Les Clos or Chablis Montée de Tonnerre, Krug Clos du Mesnil, Trimbach Clos Sainte Hune, Egon Müller Scharzhofberger Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese, and an ageless Madeira Malvasia or Bual.  The question remains unanswered is when we get together to do the 'new' classification tasting?!

20 Years On...........checking on the 1997 vintage with Rousseau, Roumier, Lafon and Yquem

29 July 2017:
To commemorate this momentous event in 1997 that has shaped Hong Kong for the past 20 years, we pulled the corks of a few bottles from the said vintage to mark this historic date. We are pleased to report that while we would agree that there seemed no clear benefit in holding onto the 1997 bottles for extended cellaring, these bottles held up extremely well at our dinner!

The NV Krug Rosé and the delicious 1998 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne were not part of the 1997 line-up but helped get things started, and certainly with these gougères.

 

1997 Meursault-Perrières, Lafon: Shrouded in a golden robe, this gorgeously mature white Bourgogne delivered layers of ripe pear, marzipan and honeyed complexity with well-defined structure, and lingering finish. A remarkable wine with 20 years of age, with such elegance and class. 18/20

1997 Chambertin Clos de Bèze, Rousseau (magnum): This has also beautifully aged, with charming tertiary characters of sous-bois, truffle and prunes. The ripe fruitiness from the vintage was evident from the palate and finish. It was a charming wine with soft acidity, velvety texture and an almost sweet note on the finish, but compared to the next wine, it did not quite have the same precision or personality. 17/20

1997 Ruchottes-Chambertin, Christophe Roumier: There was a savoury and sauvage note in the character of this wine, together with better perceived acidity, giving this wine more personality than the previous wine. The structure was still well-defined, with an elegant litheness and a savoury long finish. 17.5/20

1997 Château d'Yquem: A gorgeous amber-gold colour. A perfect Sauternes, with measured balance of acidity, sweetness, with layers of complexity that kept inviting you to take the next sip. Apricot, tangerine, spicy caramel, honey, savoury rye characters with clear botrytis characters. A divine end to a delicious supper! 18.5/20


I am not sure some of these red Bourgogne wines would survive the next decade but I would be tempted to stage another 1997 tasting soon while memories of these are still fresh.

A Tribute to 1973

15 June 2013:  A thoughtfully created 7-course menu was designed by Chef Daniel Negreira to accompany 14 bottles of fine examples from the 1973 vintage (plus a 1937 bottle). As we marvelled at the culinary creations, we were even more overwhelmed by how well the wines from this lesser vintage performed on this evening.




The 73 line-up of champagnes.  I need to get better at photography!

 Our host greeted us with a glass of 1973 Philipponnat Royale Reserve. A champagne made mainly with Pinot Noir and Meunier grapes. A pale salmon-orange colour. A very enticing bouquet of broom and forest berry preserve with subtle notes of nutmeg and toasted brioche. Delicate mousse, gently delivering the layered detail, with a fleshy mouthfeel. Good acidity. A touch of savoury on the lingering finish. Very fine. 18/20



73 DP Oenotheque on left.

 It was quite hard to decide which of the 1973 Dom Perignon and 1973 DP Oenothèque I preferred. Each delivered a very individual performance. The 73 Dom Perignon was a bright amber hue with golden highlights. An opulent bouquet reminiscent of toasted hazelnuts, ripe pear, honey, marmalade layered with caramel, toasty and smokey notes. Well kept structure with creamy mousse and fine bubbles. Nice freshness giving a nice lift to the rich mouthfeel. Long finish. 18/20 (Chef Daniel paired this with a zesty tangerine jellied foie gras ball, on a bed of whole grain toast! Great job with the pairing!)

1973 Dom Perignon Oenothèque. We didn't have the exact disgorgement date. Colour was a medium lemon. Apple, pear, citrus with tropical notes of pineapple and some candied fruit and almond aromas. Plenty of youthful vigour here. Long long finish. Still much to come in its evolution. 18.5+/20


73 Krug Collection on left.



1973 Krug. Deep amber gold robe. Quite evolved but not at all past its best. I quite liked the mature bouquet of coffee, hazelnuts, dried fruit and burnt sugar aromas. Delicate mousse. Medium finish. A fine marriage with sliced abalone in porcini consomme. 17/20

1973 Krug Collection. This came directly from the Krug Cellars. Disgorged at the same time as the Krug vintage but kept in the cool damp cellars until recently. Medium golden robe. Citrus, dried fruit, ripe pear and apple. Creamy mousse. Elegant and stylish if a little short on finish. 17.5/20

1993 Le Montrachet, Leflaive (This bottle had come from a recent auction in HK.) A medium golden hue. Intense and rich nose. Much more evolved than expected. Torrefaction notes on the nose and palate: ripe pear tart, grilled almonds, coffee and honey. Full bodied and unctuous, still showing a firm acidity bolstering the rich concentrated flavours. Perhaps a little too rich for me. Drink now. 17/20

By contrast the 1985 Le Montrachet, Ramonet showed much more minerality, youthful vigour, energy and a lilthe frame that belied that power and depth. A pale medium lemon colour. Citrus and mineral notes dominate the palate. Vibrant acidity. Finishes long with a chalky and saline note, not too dissimilar to a Chablis Grand Cru. A glorious example yet to reach its prime. Drink now and over next 10-15 years. 19/20

The Spanish selection made a very fine pair and the chef prepared a classic dish to go with them - confit of suckling pork rib, with a Marsala sauce and candied tomato, complete with crispy piggy tail, pig's ear and goose liver. I can only say that the pork rib was really delicious!) The 1973 Vega Sicilia Unico showed a deep ruby colour with just a little bricking at the rim. Red cherry with leather, tobacco and earthy notes. A little meaty on the palate. Good concentration. Medium finish. A robust well structured 1973 that does not quite have the finesse of the La Rioja Alta. Drinking very well now and over next 8-10 years. 17.5/20

The 1973 Centenario Gran Reserva, La Rioja Alta was sublime. A medium garnet hue. Notes of floral, red fruit and leather. The palate is refined, showing silky texture , elegant freshness, subtlety and depth at the same time. Finishes very long. What a beauty! Drink now and over next 8-10 years. 19/20


The 1973 Hospices de Beaune Corton Cuvée Docteur Peste (bought by Augustus Barnett of London and raised by (élevé par) Robert Sarrau) initially showed a bit of volatility and later revealed a bouquet of red fruit, spice and nutty/coffee notes with some caramel. Still holding out but didnt quite have the elegance, complexity and length of the next wine! 16.5/20



Duck tiramisu

 1973 Chambertin Clos de Bèze, Rousseau stunned us with its timeless elegance, complexity of dried rose petals, dried fruit, tea leaves, nutmeg, earthy and coffee notes, together with freshness and an unmistakable Burgundian character and silky allure within a mid weight frame. Not the most powerful and structured Clos de Bèze but certainly very elegant. Finishes long. While there is no hurry to drink this up at all, I probably would not recommend holding on for too long either. Drink over next 6-8 years... 18.5/20 (Gorgeous with the duck tiramisu!)



The fine examples from Bourgogne in 1973 and 1937!

 The 1973 La Tâche, DRC is a credible effort but falls short on complexity, concentration and length. A light weight La Tâche. Deep garnet. Floral, spicy and earthy notes adorn the bouquet but the palate lacks depth. Not very exciting. 16.5/20

The 1937 Chambertin, Bouchard shows a deep garnet colour. It is monstrous in its concentration still. Blackberry and black cherry with liquorice and earthy nuances. Quite intense and muscular if a little marred by volatile acidity. The power and intensity here belie its age. Missing some elegance. 16.5/20 (72 hour slow-cooked lamb with cumin flavoured chick peas was the dish to go with this.......nice!)

1973 Romanée Saint Vivant, Savin Fils, was a goner. Pale tawny colour. Heavy nail varnish.

Finally the 1973 Château d'Yquem. A deep golden robe. Aromas of marmalade, honey and dried apricot. Nicely balanced. Doesnt have the exhilarating complexity or deep concentration of a great Yquem. 16.5/20


Thank you so much to our generous hosts for sharing these 1973 bottles with us! And what a privilege to have so many fine surprises!

When Cheval Blanc impresses........

20 May 2013:

We have recently found some excuse to open a few nice bottles from the Saint Emilion commune. At a dinner just over a week ago, we cracked open 2 bottles from the 1982 vintage: Cheval Blanc and Ausone, followed by a war-time production of Ausone (1943). I had served a braised short rib in mustard and red wine sauce, with a celeriac and butternut bake à la dauphinoise, and buttered local organic carrots.

1982 Cheval Blanc: A medium to deep ruby core. An intense and opulent bouquet of plum, blueberry, cassis, complemented with sweet spices, graphite, leather and cedar notes, wafting up to the nose. The palate flaunted velvety tannin, vibrant acidity and harmony in every sense, leading to a fresh, spicy and long finale, defined by exotic opulence, layered complexity, remarkable freshness and youthful vigour. A very memorable symphony of perfectly pitched notes. Drink now and over next 12 – 15 years. 19/20

1982 Ausone: More of a hint of garnet at the rim. The nose was less opulent than the Cheval Blanc, exhibiting notes of blueberry, cedar, animal, coffee with some herbal and herbaceous notes. There was a certain degree of elegance and style on the palate here, but erring more on the lean and ungenerous side, compared to the lush Cheval Blanc. Drying on the finish, with a slightly disturbing green note. Finishes a little short. Perhaps this was just a below-par bottle….but probably drink now! 16.5/20

1943 Ausone: A very good level (into neck) for this age. Despite being marred by a touch of volatility, this bottle displayed an elegance and fine structure. This bottle might have seen better days and the wine seemed to be lacking in energy. Drying finish. More interesting as a remnant of a time of turmoil and disruption. 16/20

1959 Cheval Blanc: Very good level (into neck). Medium garnet core. A very distinct and mature bouquet of blueberry, fig, cedar, cigar box, graphite and leather notes, layered with an earthy ‘perfume’ of the soil. It was lush and velvety, with a lovely freshness caressing the palate. The smallest perception of slightly maderised note of caramel and fruitcake did not detract from the enjoyment of this wine, and probably added to the complexity on the earthy and farmyard finish which showed a hint of dryness. This exuded flamboyance, sheer opulence and class. Drink now for the 750 ml formats! 18/20

1949 Cheval Blanc (half bottle): Quite closed on the nose initially. Medium garnet core. There was a strong whiff of rusty nail that never quite went away. Notes of decayed leaves and black tea, with an elegant structure of underlying acidity and fine tannin. Nevertheless, this seemed a little austere/ungenerous after the opulent and flamboyant 1959. Drying finish. Probably saw better days. 17/20


We also enjoyed recently the 1996 Cristal. Very fine aged champagne, with plenty of poise and elegance. Mature bouquet of ripe pear, toffee apple, candied fruit, liquorice, coffee and acacia notes. Creamy mousse, with plenty of richness and intensity on the palate, but this bottle seemed a little evolved to us. Long spicy finish. 17.5/20

By contrast, the 1996 Corton-Charlemagne Bonneau du Martray was full of energy and tension. A great Corton Charlemagne, with signature bouquet of honey, citrus, pear, spice and smokey character. Plenty of vibrant minerality on the palate, leading to a long finish. A gorgeous wine with plenty of life ahead. Drink now and over next 8 – 10+ years. 18.5/20

2001 Climens was as expected a sensational wine. Bright golden core. Nose of orange marmalade, quince, apricot, honey and nutty notes. Richness, without the heaviness. Intense and superbly balanced. A beautiful wine that has a very long life ahead….drink now and over next 20+ years. 19.5/20

A pre-40th Birthday Celebration

5 May 2013: What do you do when a good friend's shipment of wine got delayed for his 40th birthday celebration?  So we decided to take on the hosting of a small pre-celebration.  A good excuse for a wine dinner with some more than decent 1973 champagnes (generously provided by birthday boy!) and a surprisingly delicious bottle of 1973 'Hunter River Burgundy' (that has nothing to do with Pinot Noir!)!

1973 Mumm Cuvée René Lalou: Medium gold colour, with some amber highlights. A mature bouquet of ripe pear, hazelnuts, acacia and coffee notes, with a hint of caramel and liquorice.  Rather delicate mousse.  Intensely flavoured on the palate. The finish featured a hint of acidic kick.  16.5/20

1973 Ruinart Blanc de Blancs: A medium lemon colour.  Expressive bouquet, with pear, almonds, frangipane.  Some mineral notes on the palate, still brimming with energy and tension.  Creamy mousse, persistently fine bubbles.  A very fine aged champagne indeed!  18.5/20

1973 Krug: Again a fine golden colour.  Mature bouquet of brioche, pear, hazelnuts, acacia. More creamy texture on the palate, good intensity and complexity on the palate, and the finish. I found this just a little bit more harmonious than the Mumm.  17/20

1973 Chevalier-Montrachet Les Demoiselles, Louis Jadot: Afraid this one did not quite make the cut!

1973 Lindemans Hunter River Burgundy Bin 4810: A deep ruby colour, with no sign of bricking at the rim.  An intense bouquet of black pepper, blackberry, plum, tobacco and violet notes, with animal, savoury and leather character permeating through the bouquet.  Very supple on the palate, velvety texture, perfectly well balanced, still holding its structure at this age, with fully-integrated ripe tannin and just enough acidity, giving a nice lift to the opulent juicy fruit!  Finishes almost sweet. We are still trying to find out if this was a 100% Shiraz or a field blend with other grape varieties. An admirable effort and what a great discovery that Hunter wines can age so remarkably well! 18/20



1978 Clos de La Roche, Rousseau: Garnet core. Beguiling aromatics, with notes of dried raspberry, rose petals, pot pourri, autumn leaves, pomegranate, layered with savoury and mushroom nuances. On the silky palate, the intensity and complexity was of a superior class and displayed much finesse. Long finish.  Drink now. 17/20 (I would have scored this higher had it not collapsed after about an hour.) 

1976 Clos Saint Denis, Dujac: (thank you birthday boy!) This was a bottle that came directly from the domaine via a recent auction in HK. Medium ruby core, with some garnet at the rim.  The nose was initially a little closed and needed some aeration.  Redcurrant, forest berries, spices make up the rather youthful bouquet (considering the age), with no hint of tertiary notes. The palate was initially very tight and showed a firm, sinewy structure, delivering energy, verve and concentration.  Not the most charming wine of the evening but the energy and youthfulness was rather amazing.  17.5/20 

1966 Clos de Tart: The perfume was headturning here, floral and candied fruit notes overlaying the leather and sous-bois characteristics, almost sweet to the nose. The palate was as seductive as the nose, as the wine disappeared rather effortlessly between sips. There was a distinct hint of sweetness on the finish. Silky and delicious, delivering a most harmonious act. Very impressive!  Drink now!  18.5/20 



All the bottles had very good levels, given their age

 1991 Clos Saint Denis, Dujac: A lovely bouquet. Totally sumptuous on the palate, with a mid weight frame of well-integrated elements. An understated wine that speaks of elegance, finesse and pedigree.  Finishes long.  Drinking beautifully now and over the next 10 - 12+ years. 18/20 


1976 Rieussec: Deep tawny colour.  A nose redolent of orange marmalade, apricot and rye.  Utterly unctuous, bolstered by firm acidity.  Perfect now (and perfect to be paired with my orange marmalade cake and the Portuguese egg tarts personally delivered from Macau!).  I did detect a slight dryness on the finish, so I would probably prefer to drink this over the next 5 - 6 years.  18/20




What a treat to have all the bottles behaving themselves!  During the evening, our conversations turned to the topic of what sort of wine really made the earth move for us......and it was no surprise that Bourgogne invariably featured at the top of the list......closely followed by Rhone! 

That Gorgeous Rousseau Nose!

3 May 2013: A casual evening with friends.....and a couple of Rousseau magnums!

2002 Millésime de Collection, Gimonnet (in magnum)
Lovely pale golden hue. An enticing bouquet of white blossom, fig, apple, pear, toast, ginger and grilled almonds. On the palate, the layered flavours taken around the mouth by very fine and persistent bubbles, delivering a lingering finish with crisp precision and wonderful complexity. Drink now or keep for 10 - 15 years! A fabulous champagne! 18/20


1999 Chablis Montée de Tonnerre, Raveneau
Pale lemon colour. An expressive bouquet of lemon, nutty and toast, with smokey, flinty nuances. Plenty of freshness, with zesty acidity. Rather delicious, but just short of persistence on the palate. Classic saline finish. It did a wonderful job marrying with my Hokkaido King Crab timbale with a yuzu and wasabi dressing. 17/20


1985 Chambertin, Rousseau (in magnum)
Garnet hue. Gorgeous tertiary aromas still greet the nose: spicy, sous-bois, leather with hints of red fruit. Mid weight palate. The aromatics on the nose unfortunately led to a rather disappointing palate, that is light on persistence, concentration and intensity of flavours, with a shorter than expected finish that is beginning to show some dryness. A wine that is probably just past its peak. Given recent experience of other 1985 bottles, 1985 seems like a vintage that can do with drinking up! 17.5/20


1990 Chambertin, Rousseau (in magnum)
Garnet core. Beautiful aromas of dried rose petals, raspberry, sous-bois and leather......lifted by a hint of sweet spice and a savoury note. Mid weight frame belies an intensity and persistence of rich ripe flavours, bolstered by perfect acidity. A wine that speaks of harmony and elegance that promises a subtle core of power and depth in the lingering finish, with that lovely sweetness that comes from mature Burgundies! A very perfect accompaniment to the slow-roasted lemongrass infused chicken...18.5/20


NV Oloroso Bota No. 14, Equipo Navazos
Tawny hue. A pungent and aromatically savoury bouquet of grilled hazelnuts, coffee, balsamic, dried figs, milk candy and caramel. Medium body, searing acidity, with such intensity of flavours that explode on your palate. 19/20 A perfect marriage with Epoisses! One of the most oustanding food and wine pairings!


2003 Yquem
Bright and limpid, golden robe. Intense flavours of apricot, dried pineapple with honey, hazelnut and smokey notes. Unctuous on the palate, but perhaps a little lacking in the botrytis notes and balance of firm acidity for a great Sauternes. Nevertheless, a sublime drink. Probably better young given the lower level of acidity. 17.5/20

(And sadly the 1955 Fonseca went by so quickly that I missed it completely!)

A Leroy Evening

The Leroy Wines Line-Up

8 Dec 2012: We all arrived at this dinner with a lot of expectations, understandably.  We were going to appreciate the wines by Leroy from the vintages of 1961 and 1962, as well as a few recent vintage whites from Domaine d'Auvenay.  All the older vintage bottles were recent releases from the cellars at the domaine and they were the original negoce wines that predated the purchase of vineyards which would give rise to Domaine Leroy.  We had 16 wines altogether, sneaking in a 1962 Château d'Yquem to end the evening.  With pen and paper at hand, we were ready to go!
2007 Bourgogne Aligoté, Domaine d'Auvenay: Pale lemon colour. The nose reveals evident oak, with nuances of spice, vanilla and smoke, but it does not detract from the pure citrus fruit, floral and almond notes. A nicely rounded mouthfeel, quite chewy, balanced by lively acidity. Finishes long.  A very fine example of Aligoté and one made to last a while.  Drink now and over next 8 - 10+ years?  17/20
2004 Auxey-Duresses Les Clous, Domaine d'Auvenay: A more elegant nose here, quite subtle, with notes of floral and almond. Some minerality present in the linear structure, still showing good energy and tension.  A less substantial mouthfeel.  Spicy finish.  15.5/20

2001 Meursault Narvaux, Domaine d'Auvenay: Medium gold hue. Oxidation seems to have started its course in this bottle.  Ripe pear, honey, toffee, toasted almond and nutmeg.  Medium-full body, marked by lowish acidity.  Drink now.  15/20

1961 Beaune 1er Cru Les Teurons, Maison Leroy: A rather mature bouquet of plum, black cherry,  leather , smoke and soya sauce.  Light body, good acidity and silky texture.  Finishes short.  Probably better 10 years ago. 15.5/20

1961 Nuits-Saint-Georges Clos des Argillières, Maison Leroy: Medium-pale garnet.  A mature Burgundian nose that evokes game, leather, spices, underscored by sweet raspberry fruit.  Silky tannin and still fresh acidity.  Long finish.  A very attractive wine in a rustic style, with those hallmark sauvage notes. At peak. Drink now. 17.5/20

1962 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Cazetières, Maison Leroy: A well-structured wine given its age, showing lively acidity and fine silky tannin. Alluring aromas of leather, sous-bois, with ripe sweet red fruit still abundant.  Long finish. Drink now and over next 4 - 5 years.  17.5/20

1961 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Cazetières, Maison Leroy: Here the nose has more farmyard, mushroom and earthy notes, with coffee and leather.  Astringent finish.  Less acidity than the 1962.  More austere. Drink now and over next 3- 4 years. 16.5/20

1961 Clos de Vougeot, Maison Leroy: A very fine bouquet of the soils of Burgundy!  Leather, sous-bois, mushroom, game, earthy, with nuances of strawberry and cloves.  Perhaps not showing the most powerful structure, but there was a nicely rounded mouthfeel, with a good level of acidity, but probably drinking at peak now.  17.5/20

1961 Corton, Maison Leroy: A harmonious assembly of silky tannin, firm acidity and fresh fruit aromas nuanced with spices and leather. A very elegantly matured Corton.  Just a little astringent at the finish. Drink now and over next 6 - 8+ years.  18/20

1961 Grands Echézeaux, Maison Leroy: Drop-dead gorgeous aromatics.  Pure ripe fruit of plum and raspberry, layered with coffee, leather and tobacco.  A beautifully balanced wine, with plenty of finesse and complexity, the finish that lingers.  19/20

1962 Romanée Saint Vivant, Maison Leroy: Perhaps a touch on the over-ripe side, with notes of stewed fruit, spice and herb. Velvety ripe tannin, with firm acidity, sufficiently complex but not in a very elegant style.  Finish a little short.  Disappointing. 17/20

1962 Richebourg, Maison Leroy: Beautiful perfume of dried rose petals, leather, plum, sous-bois and tea leaves. Very fine structure of lively acidity and silky tannin that has so well integrated. There is incredible harmony and balance here, a wine that showcases the best signature of Burgundy wines, finesse, elegance, complexity and harmony.  Simply sensational, leaving you with an ethereal sense of perfection. Drinking at peak now and over next 8 - 10+ years. 19.5/20

1962 La Romanée, Maison Leroy: Less effusive on the nose, but slowly the intense bouquet shows notes of coffee, chocolate, nuts, autumn leaves and nutmeg. A more solid and intellectual wine, a little taciturn at the moment, will need more time to coax the best out. Drink over next 10 - 15+ years. 19.5/20

1961 Chambertin, Maison Leroy: A more muscular style of wine, more austere.  Sauvage, animal, leather notes, with underbrush and stones, with just a hint of raspberry.  Not so generous on the mouthfeel, lowish acidity. A heftily structured and well-balanced wine that will drink well for 8 - 10+ years. 18/20

1961 Musigny, Maison Leroy: Almost unctuous on the palate, quite opulent and rich in style. Just a hint of madeirisation.  Notes of stewed fruit, chocolate, fruitcake, nutty and coffee. Lacking in that stylish elegance that one would expect from a Musigny. 18/20

1962 Château d'Yquem: Deep amber hue. Botritised notes of marmalade, orange peel, with honey, hazelnuts and apricot. Not a rich Yquem, quite elegant, medium bodied, stll balanced with plenty of acidity, but already showing a drying finish.  Needs drinking!  18/20

The Really Serious Wines!

As for the food, we were totally spoilt once again by our most generous host and the duo of great chefs (Chef Xavier Gutierrez from Arzak and Chef Daniel Negreira from DN-Innovación).  The chefs very cleverly created a number of mushroom-based creations to go with the mature burgundies......the creative highlights for me were the Portobello Pizza and the 'Chicken' which almost tasted like a vegetarian version of 'sausage' meat made with mushroom, then formed into the shape of chicken, before roasting!  The best part was the table service - the 'chicken' was carved in front of us!

'Portobello Pizza'



 All the meat and poultry dishes were fabulously flavourful and very well-proportioned.  The plum chicken was absolutely juicy, tender and perfectly seasoned with just the right amount of plum sauce, not to interfere with the wine.  Coating the lamb with toasted chopped cashew nuts was simply brilliant.

'Duck Cous-Cous'

The duck breast with mint cous-cous went beautifully with the Richebourg.  The rich Musigny paired beautifully with the Kobe cheekbone.  The pigeon was so tender and juicy and was accompanied by burnt fig.  Well, I think I did run out of steam when dessert came....

What a sensational evening!  50 and 51 year old wines, whether at Premier Cru or Grand Cru level, most of which still performing so well, and showing such consistent quality, amazing balance and beautiful harmony.  Here we have experienced the timeless quality of Burgundy wines!  In a word, incredible!   

Legendary Jayer: 1972, 1983, 1987 and 1991

12 Oct 2012:


The line-up of wines

It's a very rare event that we get to taste a Jayer bottle, and to be tasting 6 Jayer bottles at one dinner would be an experience of a lifetime! And it was, thanks to the generosity of Burgundy lover friends who contributed some of these precious bottles, and made even more special by the impeccable food and service at Amuse Bouche. We added a couple of Méo-Camuzet bottles to offer some (albeit in a very minor way) comparison in style. In preparation for this special evening, I spent quite a bit of time selecting the champagne and white wines, and working on the food/wine pairing. This is the menu and wine selection I came up with:

Amuse Bouche

1982 Salon

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Pan fried langoustine, calamari, New Zealand clam accompanied by ink ravioli

stuffed with onion confit, shallot lime sauce

1973 Corton-Charlemagne, Bonneau du Martray
1978 Corton-Charlemagne, Bonneau du Martray 

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Tuscan artisanal pasta with black truffle, chicken gravy

1972 Vosne-Romanée, Henri Jayer

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Sautéed Frog’s legs with garlic and black olive tomato confit and shredded parsley

1983 Vosne-Romanée Cros Parantoux, Henri Jayer

1987 Vosne-Romanée Cros Parantoux, Henri Jayer

1991 Vosne-Romanée Cros Parantoux, Henri Jayer

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Roasted Challand duck breast flavoured with coriander seed, fig marmalade,

red cabbage, baby pear, orange duck jus

1983 Richebourg, Henri Jayer

1987 Richebourg, Henri Jayer

1991 Richebourg, Méo-Camuzet

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Cheese Selection from Philippe Alléosse served with apricot, cherry jam and raisin

2004 Vosne-Romanée Cros Parantoux, Méo-Camuzet

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Crispy Granny Smith apple tart, vanilla ice cream

1947 Climens

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My notes on the wines:

1982 Salon: Amber golden. Intense and mature nose with notes of grilled hazelnuts, dried apricot, toffee, caramel, coffee and quince paste. There is an intense concentration of flavours on the palate. Lively acidity and a creamy mousse, with persistent and fine bubbles. This bottle seems in a much more advanced state of development, but there is still a brilliant balance of flavours, acidity and mousse, keeping the palate fresh and exciting. 17/20

1973 Corton-Charlemagne, Bonneau du Martray: (good level but loose cork) Deep amber. Plenty of torrefaction on nose: coffee, toffee and nutty. The fruit has largely gone. Not very exciting. Acidic kick at finish. Past its best.

1978 Corton-Charlemagne, Bonneau du Martray: Golden colour. An opulent bouquet of beeswax, lanolin, very ripe pear, marzipan and magnolia. Full-bodied with a rich and unctuous texture, deftly balanced by firm lively acidity. Very long finish. A wine with lots of muscles. Drink now and over next 6 - 8 years. 18/20

1972 Vosne-Romanée, Henri Jayer: (Served blind for everyone to guess!) Ruby-garnet robe. A very classic mature Burgundian nose of raspberry, rose petals, layered with tertiary notes of animal, leather, savoury and truffle. Supple attack on palate. Medium bodied, with silky texture, beautifully balanced, fair amount of intensity on the palate, finish a little short, with just a slight drying sensation. Drink now! A really nice surprise given the quality of the vintage and the level of the appellation. 17/20

1983 Vosne-Romanée Cros Parantoux, Henri Jayer: Garnet colour, a little cloudy. A very seductive nose with aromas of pot pourri, coriander seeds, soya sauce, sous-bois and leather, with a very distinct sauvage notes. Velvety texture. Totally harmonious, seamlessly integrated and balanced, with an understated richness and concentration that carries the sweet flavours a long way on the finish. Drinking at peak now and for next 5 - 6+ years. 19/20

1987 Vosne-Romanée Cros Parantoux, Henri Jayer: Bright medium ruby, garnet rim. A herbal nose of tea leaves and sous-bois and slightly herbaceous notes. Quite a delicate frame. Very admirable freshness on the palate. Slightly astringency on the long finish. Well-balanced and a strong effort for the weak vintage. Drink now and over next 4 - 5 years. 17.5/20

1991 Vosne-Romanée Cros Parantoux, Henri Jayer: Bright medium ruby. Slightly bretty initially, the expressive nose gradually taken over by primary red and black berries, tea leaves, spicy, savoury, leather, with the rather attractive sauvage character. Full-bodied, with a remarkable display of concentration, integration, balance and richness, all characteristic of the vintage. Very long finish. Still evolving in the glass during dinner. Drink now and over next 10 - 12+ years. 19/20

1983 Richebourg, Henri Jayer: Unfortunately slightly corked, but this does not entirely detract from the potential quality of this strong performance for the vintage. Velvety structure, no sign of any astringency on the palate. Rose petals, earthy, sous-bois, leather notes still evident to the nose, but the palate has been rendered less interesting by the corkedness.

1987 Richebourg, Henri Jayer: Bright medium ruby. Quite high-toned notes, raspberry, plum, dried rose petals, with earthy, tea leaves and sous-bois. Elegantly presented in a medium structure, with remarkable freshness, flavour intensity and balance, keeping the wine in a relatively youthful state. Tannin still not fully integrated, slight astringency on the very long finish. Excellent effort for this challenging vintage. There was a suggestion that this would go well with Chinese roast goose and plum sauce! (We paired this with duck and fig marmalade and red cabbage, not too far off!) Drink now and over next 8 - 10+ years. 18/20

1991 Richebourg, Méo-Camuzet: Bright medium ruby. Initially reductive on the nose. Quite a change in style from the Jayers. Still plenty of red fruit, with meaty, savoury and earthy notes. Lots of complexity on the palate, Quite austere and reserved on the palate, needs plenty of aeration to get the wine to speak to us. There is no question of its density, concentration and intensity. A powerful wine, that will benefit from a bit more bottle age to harmonise further before reaching its apogée. Finishes very long. 18+/20

2004 Vosne-Romanée Cros Parantoux, Méo-Camuzet: Deep ruby. The characteristic herbaceous nose of the cool vintage of 2004 is evident, but it is well integrated with the purity of red fruit, leather, savoury and autumn leaves. There is a remarkable freshness on the palate, balanced with sufficient concentration, complexity and depth. A strong effort for a challenging vintage. Lovely long finish. This can be enjoyed now with aeration, but probably better in 2 - 3 years time. 17.5/20

1947 Climens: Deep amber robe. A penetrating nose of grilled hazelnuts, caramel, marmalade, dried apricot and figs, plenty of botrytis. Rich and opulent on the palate, but incredibly well-balanced still, not cloying at all, and only a hint of astringency on the very long finish. Simply brilliant for a Sauternes/Barsac at this age! 18.5/20

Pan-fried langoustine, calamari, NZ clam with ink ravioli
(above the 2 glasses of Corton-Charlemagne, showing very different colours, despite only a 5 year difference)

As for the food, I highly recommend the pan-fried langoustine, calamari, NZ clam with ink ravioli stuffed with onion confit and shallot lime sauce. The seafood was so fresh, beautifully cooked to retain the freshness and natural flavours. The NZ clam is the plumpest clam I've had for a long time! The ink ravioli was a revelation, al dente skin, with an explosion of flavours once in your mouth.

The pasta with black truffle is a firm favourite of mine and simply had to be included!! It worked so well with the truffle note of the 1972 Vosne-Romanée.

Frog's legs with garlic, tomator and olive confit with parsley

I thought the frog's legs were brilliant - so tender and juicy, with flavours lifted by the garlic and parsley. The garlic was perhaps a touch too strong for our wines.  A really excellent dish and could easily be a main course by itself for a lightish meal!

Roasted duck breast with coriander seeds, with fig marmalade and red cabbage

I liked the taste of toasted corainder seeds around the duck breast, which was cooked medium rare. The sweetness from the fig marmalade was perhaps a little too intense for our wines and the red cabbage a little tart for our wines. That was not a good selection by me. The dish itself was great but probably better paired with a Syrah (Hermitage) or a Bandol.

The apple tart is Richard's favourite - so it needed to be included, even if it wasn't the best match with the 47 Climens!

What made Henri Jayer so special?  Could it be a combination of his personality, access to some of the best terroirs, and his philosophy of no stems, using only ripe concentrated fruit, plenty of oak and no filtration?  He was known for his ability to turn out very good and ageworthy wines in the lesser vintages.   This was certainly true in our case: a number of the wines we had were from lesser vintages - 1972, 1983, 1987 and 2004 (for Meo-Camuzet).  Jayer was truly a master at his art.  I felt humbled by the greatness of his wines.  I doubt I would have this experience repeated again - it is to be treasured for many many years to come!

1966 La Tache and 1988 Krug

1 Sep 2012: A rather special occasion for us to enjoy some fine bottles with a couple of friends at Spoon Restaurant in Hong Kong. We started with a 1988 Krug, which the sommelier chose to serve in these slightly modified Marie-Antoinette champagne coupes, where the wine fills the stem of the glasses. These glasses were certainly pretty but I was not quite sure that they were entirely helpful in concentrating the aromas of our fine champagne and the bit in the stem was not doing very much! Bright golden hue, with persistent fine bubbles. A mature and richly intense bouquet of honey, figs, toasted hazelnuts and smokey notes. On the palate, it reveals an impeccably balanced opulence in flavours, gorgeously creamy texture, freshness delivered by the right amount of acidity and nicely developed warm notes of marmalade, dried apricot, guava and almond croissant. Seriously yummy, with a very long finish! Gorgeous now and for the next 8 - 10+ years. 18/20
Our white wine was a 1978 Corton-Charlemagne, Bonneau du Martray. Pale gold. Richard found it too rich and mature for his liking. I rather liked it and it went really well with the steamed foie gras that Frank and I both ordered. (A hearty portion size of foie gras - best shared by 2 people, I think.) Toasted macadamia and hazelnuts, caramel popcorn, quince, with notes of white chocolate, nutmeg and coriander seeds. Medium acidity, keeping the wine fresh on the palate, medium bodied, quite unctuous. Long spicy finish. Definitely for drinking now, while it's still balanced. 17/20

Steamed foie gras

The sommelier again offered a strange choice of glassware for the 1966 La Tâche. He served it in small white wine glasses, citing reason that the wine was going to collapse very quickly in a normal Burgundy glass. For me, while this wine did not require decanting (provided careful pouring), it would benefit from a suitable amount of aeration to allow the wine to open up and the elements to come together. Ruby core, with a garnet rim. Very enticing bouquet of raspberry, dried rose petals, sous-bois and Asian spices. Initially the palate was a little subdued, but came through, after some aeration, with earthy notes of mineral and wet stones, and some coffee. A very refined structure of silky tannin, showing a little astringency, with medium acidity still in balance, a classy lengthy finish. A fine wine, showing plenty of finesse, elegance and complexity, but much less complete/exuberant than the Romanée Conti from same vintage, the memory of which still lingers in my mind 6 years after tasting it. 18.5/20

We finished with 1983 Château d'Yquem. Medium-deep amber in colour. Richly intense marmalade, dried apricot, dried pineapple, beautifully laced with toffee apple notes on nose and palate. The voluptuous body is lifted by vibrant acidity, giving this wine a vigorously long finish. For my palate, I would like it with a bit more tension and less of the richness. 17/20
We were spoilt but great wines really reveal their greatness in the company of special friends.

1996 Musigny and Chambertin - in magnum formats!

25 March 2011: We love serving magnums at dinner parties, and we now know that for 10 people, we should have prepared 3 magnums, rather than 2!  We also tried a new chef at home - Chef Yip - I thought his orange peel flavoured spare ribs and deep fried pomfret were rather tasty! (Plus I am still enjoying the almond cream with eggwhite while nursing a very bad cold and bursting head at home. I am geting rather fed up with the erratic weather patterns in HK - the temperatures this spring have been going up and down with no rhyme or reason, like a yoyo!)

We started with a Jacques Selosse Brut Initial.  We probaby should have served this wine in white wine glasses because it's first and foremost a mature Chardonnay, second a champagne!  (In fact on the back label, it says the wine should be decanted or served after a couple of hours of aeration!) Rich and ripe fruit nose of toast, pear tart, hazelnuts and honey, with a very creamy mousse and opulent texture, bolstered by racy acidity and a precise minerality. Lovely long finish. Disgorged in 2009, this Brut Initial was a mix of vintages 2004, 2003 and 2002 of parcels from the grand cru vineyards of Avize, Cramant and Oger.  18/20

1995 Leflaive Puligny Montrachet Les Pucelles: First bottle slightly corked.  Second bottle showed a classy nose of lemon curd, passion fruit, guava, nutty, spicy and buttery.  On the palate, balanced and structured. Well matured now - would advise drinking up within next 2 - 3 years for optimum enjoyment. 16/20
1990 Chevalier Montrachet, Michel Niellon:  Medium golden and medium-full bodied. Somewhat subdued initially.  I had it decanted for an hour. Grapefruit, floral, ripe apple, toasty, very spicy, minerality, with some creamy character. Persistent finish and very refined. A quiet and unassuming Chevalie Montrachet, albeit well-made, offering plenty of complexity.  Drinking at peak now until 2016 for optimum enjoyment. 17.5/20
1996 Chambertin, Armand Rousseau (magnum):  Classy nose, sous bois, wet leaves, farmyard, over strawberry, red fruit and dried rose petal.  Still firm tannin and vivid acidity. Not the most dense and concentrated of the Rousseau Chambertins, but a great effort. Took at least 3 hours of decanting to reveal its finest.  This wine could do with more development in the bottle.  Drink from 2015+.  18/20

1996 Musigny, Prieur (magnum):  Gained weight and complexity with 2 hours of decanting. A very charming nose of ripe red fruit, raspberry and redcurrant, perfumed and rose petal, interluded with some wet leaves. Very appealing, silky texture, allowing the ripe (but not intense) flavours to coat the tastebuds.  I probably would have expected a richer and more fulfilling mouthfeel.  Slightly vegetal and stalky on the finish. Drink now (further bottle development could be expected) - 2018 to enjoy it at its best (especially for normal bottle formats).  17.5/20
1991 Chambertin Clos de Beze, Armand Rousseau: A class act.  Behind the silky tannin and very ripe fruit, the wine revealed an astonishing freshness, firm sturcture and great concentration and intensity of flavours. Ripe red fruit, violet, earthy with some chocolate.  Hardly spent any time in the decanter as this was the last minute addition to fill our guests' fast emptying glasses (always a good sign for us!). Drinking beautifully now and for next 8 - 10+ years, with further evolution expected.  18.5/20 (And 2 bottles of this went down rather quickly too! Excellent!)
1988 Climens: Honey, dried apricot, sultana, floral, quince, marmalade, etc. Medium bodied, harmonious acidity, richly balanced. A marvellous effort, impressive, but not flamboyant. Drink now - 2016 before the acidity runs out. I had bought a chocolate gateau called "Voyageur" from Jean Paul Hévin as alternative dessert because the almond cream probably wasn't everyone's cup of tea!  And the Climens went beautifully with it!  18.5/20  (Richard's wine of the evening!)

I had saved a glass of the Selosse Brut Initial for the following day and it tasted just as marvellous! I can't wait to try the Substance, of which we have one bottle!