1966 La Tache and 1988 Krug

1 Sep 2012: A rather special occasion for us to enjoy some fine bottles with a couple of friends at Spoon Restaurant in Hong Kong. We started with a 1988 Krug, which the sommelier chose to serve in these slightly modified Marie-Antoinette champagne coupes, where the wine fills the stem of the glasses. These glasses were certainly pretty but I was not quite sure that they were entirely helpful in concentrating the aromas of our fine champagne and the bit in the stem was not doing very much! Bright golden hue, with persistent fine bubbles. A mature and richly intense bouquet of honey, figs, toasted hazelnuts and smokey notes. On the palate, it reveals an impeccably balanced opulence in flavours, gorgeously creamy texture, freshness delivered by the right amount of acidity and nicely developed warm notes of marmalade, dried apricot, guava and almond croissant. Seriously yummy, with a very long finish! Gorgeous now and for the next 8 - 10+ years. 18/20
Our white wine was a 1978 Corton-Charlemagne, Bonneau du Martray. Pale gold. Richard found it too rich and mature for his liking. I rather liked it and it went really well with the steamed foie gras that Frank and I both ordered. (A hearty portion size of foie gras - best shared by 2 people, I think.) Toasted macadamia and hazelnuts, caramel popcorn, quince, with notes of white chocolate, nutmeg and coriander seeds. Medium acidity, keeping the wine fresh on the palate, medium bodied, quite unctuous. Long spicy finish. Definitely for drinking now, while it's still balanced. 17/20

Steamed foie gras

The sommelier again offered a strange choice of glassware for the 1966 La Tâche. He served it in small white wine glasses, citing reason that the wine was going to collapse very quickly in a normal Burgundy glass. For me, while this wine did not require decanting (provided careful pouring), it would benefit from a suitable amount of aeration to allow the wine to open up and the elements to come together. Ruby core, with a garnet rim. Very enticing bouquet of raspberry, dried rose petals, sous-bois and Asian spices. Initially the palate was a little subdued, but came through, after some aeration, with earthy notes of mineral and wet stones, and some coffee. A very refined structure of silky tannin, showing a little astringency, with medium acidity still in balance, a classy lengthy finish. A fine wine, showing plenty of finesse, elegance and complexity, but much less complete/exuberant than the Romanée Conti from same vintage, the memory of which still lingers in my mind 6 years after tasting it. 18.5/20

We finished with 1983 Château d'Yquem. Medium-deep amber in colour. Richly intense marmalade, dried apricot, dried pineapple, beautifully laced with toffee apple notes on nose and palate. The voluptuous body is lifted by vibrant acidity, giving this wine a vigorously long finish. For my palate, I would like it with a bit more tension and less of the richness. 17/20
We were spoilt but great wines really reveal their greatness in the company of special friends.