Uniquely Bourgogne: 'Extraordinary' Appellations

15 Jan 2019:  Chardonnay and Pinot Noir represent over 90% of vine plantings in Bourgogne. This special Bourgogne wine masterclass turned the spotlight on the minor grape varieties and less common appellations that rarely make it to the export market. The class of 12 students joined me in my enthusiasm to taste the selection of wines, specially selected from the cellars of Bourgogne Wine Board ("BIVB"). #bivb

A very attentive class!

The minor varieties in Bourgogne include Aligoté, Gamay, Pinot Beurot (Pinot Gris), Pinot Blanc, Sacy, Sauvignon, César, Melon de Bourgogne and others. Aligoté alone represents about 6% of plantings, which means the others together make up about 3%.

Being an offspring of the same parents as ubiquitous Chardonnay, namely Pinot Noir x Gouais Blanc, Aligoté has not enjoyed the same international reputation as its ‘sibling’. Aligoté used to be more widely planted in Bourgogne but its low commercial appeal and difficulty to grow well slowly converted most growers of Aligoté to replant with Chardonnay. Aligoté is known for its lively acidity and notes of spring meadows, straw and lemon zest, and a crisp mineral finish. With development, you may even find honey notes. Its association with the cocktail Kir may not have done it proper justice because this grape variety has a vivacity and character that should not be masked by Crème de Cassis! But there is more to Aligoté than its name suggests – we know there are at least two distinct clones of the grape variety. Aligoté Vert, the modern clonal version, is the more widely planted and higher yielding and is typically vinified into Bourgogne Aligoté. Aligoté Doré, the thinner-skinned version that allows for a more balanced expression of alcohol and acidity when ripening, is the older version and exists amongst very old vines.

Nowhere in Bourgogne is this grape variety as celebrated as in the village of Bouzeron in the Côte Chalonnaise region. The tiny appellation of Bouzeron (1998) (only 55 ha) has made the golden version of Aligoté its raison d’être. This is an appellation dedicated to Aligoté and nothing else. The Aligoté grapes here are grown on well-exposed white marly limestone upper slopes to achieve perfect ripening. The gobelet training allows the yields to be carefully controlled. (The lower slopes are for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, sold as Bourgogne Côte Chalonnaise AOC.) Bouzeron wines have an ageing potential like no other Bourgogne Aligoté – they have been known to taste well beyond 5+ years. The perfect way to enjoy Bouzeron is with a plate of jambon persillé, but it can easily go well with a quiche and salad luncheon. Its cheese partners are Comté and CÎteaux. To celebrate the 20th anniversary of Bouzeron AOC, there is a public open day with tours around the vineyards and food/wine pairing on 14th April.

There is another high quality expression of Aligoté from the Côte de Nuits. Local, loyal practices have allowed Aligoté vines to continue to flourish from a hillside vineyard Clos des Monts Luisants, a Premier Cru Climat, in the village of Morey-Saint-Denis. Aligoté had been planted there since 1911, alongside Chardonnay and Pinot Gouges. It was not until 2005 that this monopole wine was made entirely with 100% Aligoté. This exception to the rule does not apply to other Monts Luisants white wine, which is typically based on Chardonnay. If you could get your hands on a bottle of 100% Aligoté-based Clos des Monts Luisants blanc, you would be in for a treat. The singular expression of Aligoté is so compelling here, with precision, vigour, boldness and concentration.

Gamay is synonymous with Beaujolais. Under the rule of Valois Duke Philippe the Bold, this grape variety was politically sacrificed and banned as ‘disloyal’ in 1395, making way for wider plantings of the prized Pineau-plant-fin (later known as Pinot Noir). Unbeknown to the Valois rulers at the time, Gamay does thrive better in granite soils in Beaujolais, rather than the prevalent argilo-calcaire in Bourgogne. The 1395 ban fortunately did not stretch to the Mâconnais region as the Bourgogne delimitation at the time did not stretch this far south. In certain areas of the Mâconnais we can find Gamay delivering an elegant expression when grown on granite and siliceous subsoils. Mâcon as a regional appellation can be made into white, red and rosé wines. The red and rosé wines can be made from Pinot Noir or Gamay, but Gamay typically features here. The example of Mâcon Rosé that we tried was so mineral, crisp and elegant, very unlike a Provencal rosé or one from the Loire Valley.   

Pinot Blanc and Pinot Beurot (Gris), both mutations of Pinot Noir, are permitted, for historic reasons, in a few Côte de Nuits village appellations that permit white wine, including Marsannay, Vougeot, and Nuits-Saint-Georges for the white wines. Naturally, they can also feature in Crémant de Bourgogne blends.

Sauvignon Blanc and Sauvignon Gris are the grape varieties permitted in the Saint-Bris appellation (2003) in the Auxerrois region. The terroir in Auxerrois sets this variety apart from its expression in the Loire Valley. It does not have the flinty character of the Loire Sauvignon, nor the asparagus note. Instead there is a juicy fruitiness of grapefruit and starfruit that is subtle, not overt and quite different from the more flamboyant Marlborough kiwi and passion fruit character. There is a mineral core and a saline finish that is characteristic of wines from the Kimmeridgian and Portlandian limestone soils of this northern Bourgogne region. Perfect with the goat cheeses from this region: think Charolais and Satonnay, but also saffron-flavoured dishes. Saint-Bris is mainly produced from the commune of Saint-Bris-le-Vineux, but also from the neighbouring communes of Chitry, Irancy, Vincelottes and Quenne. Total area under vines for Saint-Bris AOC is 133 ha.

César is typically a robust and vigorous variety, giving wines with deep red colour, firm tannins and intense red fruit aromas. The appellation of Irancy (1999) from the Auxerrois region permits a maximum of 10% of César to complement the lighter coloured and softer texture Pinot Noir, to give a wine that has more structure and texture in this northern region of Bourgogne. Vignerons who desire a more modern, softer, readily approachable style for their Irancy are more likely to make it with 100% Pinot Noir. (It was a shame that our wine did not contain César - it would have been an interesting illustration.) BIVB recommends Irancy as a good partner for these cheeses: Camembert, Coulommiers, Brie de Meux, Langres, Epoisses and Soumaintrain.  The producing communes are Irancy, Cravant and Vincelottes. Total area under vines for Irancy AOC is 159 ha. 

Sacy is an early-ripening white grape variety, with rather low acidity and alcohol, producing light-coloured wines. It is mainly found in the Grand Auxerrois region. Interestingly, this shares the same parents as Aligoté, Melon and Chardonnay.

Finally, Melon de Bourgogne (another Pinot x Gouais Blanc offspring) is no stranger to wine lovers familiar with Muscadet wine from the Loire Valley. It is valued for its minerality and lively acidity, and a lightness and salinity that serve so well when paired with oysters. It would appear that this grape variety had its origins in Bourgogne before migrating north to find a more faithful expression.

Therefore, this masterclass presented a very unique interest level for Bourgogne wine lovers. We also slotted in a Bourgogne Vézelay in the selection because of Vézelay’s newly promoted status as a village appellation as of 2017. We tasted a 2016 vintage – so it remained a Bourgogne Vézelay, a regional appellation. Vézelay AOC is reserved for white wines made with Chardonnay only. The wine we tasted showed a beautiful tension, mineral core and salinity at the finish that recalled the soil component of the Auxerrois region. It was elegant and sublime.

 

The selection of wines by BIVB

The wines we tasted were:

Saint-Bris, Simonnet-Febvre, 2017 (Sauvignon)

Bouzeron, Domaine Gagey, Louis Jadot, 2015 (Aligoté)

Bourgogne Vézelay L’Elégante, Domaine La Croix Montjoie, 2016 (Chardonnay)

Marsannay Les Vignes Marie, Domaine du Vieux Collège, 2015 (Chardonnay)

Mâcon Rosé, Vignerons de Mancey, 2017 (Gamay)

Irancy, Domaine de Mauperthuis, 2015 (Pinot Noir)


Each of these wines showed a distinct personality and style, whichever grape variety they were based on.  All of these wines would retail at below HK$ 200 retail per bottle if they were available in the local market. This was indeed one of the more exciting tastings I could remember, with each wine making a distinct impression, even though they all came from the same region!  Blind taste these wines on your wine-snob friends, and you might find some very interesting results!

Becoming Gevrey-Chambertin: a village synonymous with the notion of terroir

The last edition in 2018 of BIVB Live Training by the Bourgogne Wine Board was broadcast to an eager audience in world markets on 5 December. We ended the year with one of the most famous villages of the Côte d'Or, Gevrey-Chambertin. Boasting 9 Grand Cru appellations covering 73 hectares and 26 Premier Cru climats covering 81 hectares, Gevrey is a large village in terms of surface area.  The total area under vines in Gevrey is 402 ha, compared to 112 ha in Morey-Saint-Denis or 150 ha in Chambolle-Musigny.  At Gevrey, the Premier Cru production is about 20% of the total production of the village.  Only one colour (red) is permitted here, and with a single variety, Pinot Noir.

Traces of vines planted on the plains dating to the 1st Century were uncovered in the village in 2008. Vines were not planted on slopes until the monastic communities became involved in viticulture and winemaking in the 6th and 7th Centuries. An abbey built in the village in 630 CE, at the location of Bèze, received donations of vineyards, one of which was to become Clos de Bèze. The abbey of Cluny which was created in 909 CE also received vineyards in Gevrey and built a château here. During the 16th and 17th Centuries, the vinous reputation of Bourgogne was defined by the wines of Dijon and Beaune. Then in the late 18th Century, the wines of Chambertin and Clos de Bèze began to sell for more prices than those of the Dijon wines. This prompted the village to devise an initiative to boost the reputation of the village wines. In 1847, the village name was changed from Gevrey to Gevrey-Chambertin. This ingenious and effective initiative was followed by Chambolle and other villages.

To understand the diversity of this prestigious village, Jean-Pierre Renard, the Official Educator of the L'Ecole des Vins of BIVB, guided us through an explanation of the geology of Gevrey-Chambertin. Essentially, the geology of Gevrey is defined by the presence of two combes (closed-end valleys) which cut through the escarpment of the Côte de Nuits. They are Combe Lavaux, which is the largest combe in the Côte de Nuits, forming an alluvial fan of 2 - 3 metres into the plain, and the smaller Combe Grisard.

 

Source: www.bourgogne-wines.com

It is possible to divide Gevrey into three zones. The first zone starts from the northern side of the Combe Lavaux, continuing along a semi-circular slope into the village of Brochon. (Note that despite being a winemaking village, Brochon is not entitled to its own village appellation. Therefore, the vineyards on the southern side of Brochon, abutting Gevrey, are classified as Gevrey village vineyards. Those at the northern end are classified as either Fixin village wines or Côte de Nuits-Villages wines.) For this first Gevrey zone, vines are planted from 280 metres to around 380 metres near the climat of Combe Aux Moines. The vines either face fully south near Combe Lavaux to fully east at Brochon. The soils are rich in limestone and clay. The vineyards near the top of the slope often have very thin topsoil of marl, around 30 cm. The mid-slope is largely formed from a stratum of crinoidal limestone from the Middle Jurassic period, whereas near the bottom of the slope, it can be around 60 cm of topsoil on marl. Renard noted the presence of fossiled marl from the Bajocian period, Marnes à Ostrea acuminata , at the Premier Cru climats of Clos Saint-Jacques, Lavaux and Poissenot. The soil's high mineral content or its accessibility to minerals for vine roots explains the finesse and structure of these wines.


The second zone largely consists of the alluvial fan that is formed by the Combe Lavaux. At places, the top soil lies above Comblanchien limestone several metres deep that offers good drainage properties.  This area accounts for over 50% of Gevrey's production.


The third zone begins from the southern side of the Combe Lavaux, following the hillside curve where the Grand Cru appellations are located, and finally stretching to the border with Morey-Saint-Denis.  Most of these vineyards face east, with some village appellation near the top of Combe facing north east.  The altitudes are from 260 metres to 300 metres for the Grand Cru climats stretching to 340 metres for the Bel Air climat.  A number of prestigious premier cru climats are located near the Grand Cru appellations, including Champonnet, Le Fonteny, Les Corbeaux, La Petite Chapelle and Aux Combottes. The presence of  Marnes à Ostrea acuminata is noted here, in particular in the climat of Chambertin.  

Jean-Pierre Renard, L'Ecole des Vins de Bourgogne, BIVB

Renard gave us an interesting illustration of the notion of terroir. Near the exit of Combe Lavaux, the vineyards on the southern side are less sheltered from the winds and face north east.  As a result, Combe de Lavaux and Les Marchais are only classified as village appellation lieux-dits, whereas the vineyards that are on the opposite side of the Combe face fully south and they are classified as Premier Cru climats, for example, Les Verroilles, Lavaux Saint-Jacques, Poissenot and Etournelles.

Grégory Patriat, winemaker of Maison Jean-Claude Boisset, added to the demonstration of the notion of terroirs by talking about his two favourite Premier Cru climats, Lavaux Saint-Jacques and Les Cazetiers. Both are located in the first zone described above, and separated by a few hundred metres. Lavaux is a south-facing climat and generally the vines are harvested earlier here than for Les Cazetiers. There is a higher limestone content and thus explains the greater finesse and elegance of the wines, perhaps a more feminine style with more fruit-forward aromas, such as dark berries and spices.  At Les Cazetiers, whose name refers to a little castle, there is more clay in the soil and the wine here is more restrained and structured,showing silky but firm tannins.  The style is much more masculine, with perhaps a greater ageing potential than Lavaux.  The wines of Gevrey can age very well. Patriat recalled opening a bottle of 1969 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Bel Air a week ago for a client and the almost 50-year-old wine still showed vibrancy and no sign of deterioration. 

Gregory Patriat, Maison JC Boisset (source: www.jcboisset.com)

Of the 26 premier cru climats, Renard highlighted some renowned ones including Aux Combottes, Les Cherbaudes, Les Corbeaux, Clos Saint-Jacques, Champonnet, Les Cazetiers and Champeaux.  He also remarked that a number of winemakers had started to indicate on the labels the lieu-dit for some village level production.  Some noteworthy lieu-dit names include Les Corvées, Les Etelois, Les Jeunes Rois and En Songe. 

A village with so much prestige to its name has only the reputation of its wines to defend and sustain. The current generation is working hard at ensuring the quality of the soils.  Nicolas Rossignol of Domaine Rossignol-Trapet mentioned the increased use of ploughing to work the soils and control the vegetative growth around the vines, to give the soils better aeration and improved organic content of the topsoil. The village now has about 8 domaines certified organic or biodynamic, evidence that the growers are keen to preserve nature for the sustainability of this prestigious heritage.

Source: www.bourgogne-wines.com

This unique delivery of masterclass finished with a tasting of six wines, from one village lieu-dit and six premier cru climats of Gevrey.  In fact the lieu-dit is Clos Prieur, which is partly a village lieu-dit and partly a premier cru, below Mazis-Chambertin.  

The six wines were:

Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Prieur, 2016, Domaine Marc Roy

Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru les Cherbaudes, 2015, Domaine des Beaumont

Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru Clos du Chapitre, 2015, Nuiton-Beaunoy

Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru Lavaux Saint-Jacques, 2016, Domaine Harmand-Geoffroy

Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru Les Champeaux, 2016, Domaine Henri Magnien

Gevrey-Chambertin Premier Cru Les Cazetiers, 2016, Domaine Henri Magnien

Being faithful expressions of their climats and vintages, the six wines all varied in styles. Some showed more violet and darker fruit, others more red fruit and roses. Oak was overall very well-managed and was nicely integrated, even for the three younger Premier Cru wines from 2016.  All three wines showed an invigorating freshness and a classic vibrancy, while flaunting some lovely ripe fruit, a generous mid-palate and long finish.  It was indeed difficult for us to choose a favourite. However, the most votes did go to the Lavaux Saint Jacques by Domaine Harmand-Geoffroy, followed by the Les Cazetiers by Domaine Henri Magnien.  Les Champeaux by Domaine Henri Magnien and Les Cherbaudes by Domaine des Beaumont shared an equal third. 

Kudos to this new generation of winemakers in Gevrey for having made these high quality and expressive wines. Their work has enabled us to appreciate the nuances of the climats and the rich diversity of Gevrey-Chambertin. Gevrey was a village made by the prestige of Chambertin but its future is a living tale of application, sensibility and persistence of its men and women.

Thank you BIVB for allowing me to host this masterclass and to share this experience with our trade and media friends in Hong Kong. #BIVBRDV

Building the case for Chablis Premier Cru

8 November 2018:
Chablis Premier Cru Seminar
Chablis Climats & Vintage Variations: Why They Matter?


Around 50 local and international trade representatives attended this edition of the Chablis Premier Cru seminar presented at the HK Wine & Spirits Fair 2018 by Chablis Wines (www.chablis-wines.com). The focus of this seminar was to highlight the diversity of Chablis Premier Cru wine styles across climats and vintages. Formally recognised on 4th July 2015, the climats of Bourgogne are specific terroirs, each possessing a unique identity based on the altitude, orientation, degree of shelter, soil type and structure, and expressed by a grape variety.

 

Chablis is not just Chardonnay. Chablis is a matrix of diverse styles. We start from the three appellation levels (from Petit Chablis to Chablis & Chablis Premier Cru and finally Chablis Grand Cru), understanding that the specifications for AOC Chablis Premier Cru are covered within the AOC specifications for Chablis. Then we qualify their identities with 47 individual expressions at the Premier Cru and Grand Cru level, including 40 Premier Cru climats and seven climats for Chablis Grand Cru. We then add to this complex matrix individual house styles and vinification preferences by over 300 estates in the region. Finally we take into consideration vintage variations and harvest dates for different producers. There is a Chablis wine for each occasion, and there is a style for individual preference, whether for the consumer or the trade professional. Each side of the Serein Valley is made up of a number of side valleys, each bringing to the picture their own orientations, altitudes and soil types.

 

The aim of the seminar was to emphasise this very point, as the audience was guided through a tasting from Beauroy to Vaillons to Montmains on the left bank, then from Fourchaume, to Montée de Tonnerre to Vaucoupin on the right bank. Vintage variations were explored through the tasting of wines from the vintages of 2014, 2015 and 2016. 2014 and 2016 both had difficult growing seasons, but 2014 vintage was saved by September, after a gloomy and damp summer, producing wines of precision and crispness. The beautiful summer of 2016 turned the vintage into a success in 2016. 2015 however was one of the earliest vintages, with wines of perfect maturity. Except for hail-affected areas in Les Clos, Blanchot and Montée de Tonnerre, 2015 produced accessible wines with good maturity and balance.

 

Although there are 40 climats at the Premier Cru level, 17 climats are considered the main ones, with a number of them being flag-bearer climats. For example, Fourchaume is the flag-bearer climat for the sub-climats of L’Homme Mort, Vaupulent, Côte de Fontenay and Vaulorent. Eight of the 40 climats are considered to be the most famous: Fourchaume, Montée de Tonnerre, Mont de Milieu and Vaucoupin from the right bank, and Beauroy, Côte de Lechet, Vaillons and Montmains from the left bank. At this seminar, we would be tasting a wine from six of these eight climats. In terms of production level, eleven climats produce about 80% of the total Premier Cru production.


The wines were divided into three flights. The audience was asked to choose their favourite wines for each flight and finally, they were asked to suggest a dish to pair with their favourite wine out of the seven wines.

 

Despite the terroir diversity, all the wines clearly showed the hallmark of Chablis: freshness, purity, elegance and the unique marine minerality. This marine minerality is closely associated with the region’s geological make-up that dated 150 million years in the Upper Jurassic period, where rock movements resulted in a ‘millefeuille’ of soil formations alternating between Kimmeridgian marl and limestone, embedded with a myriad of Exogyra virgula (oyster fossils).

 

The tasting:
Flight 1: This flight compared two wines from the same vintage, produced by different producers, hence different vinification techniques. They were also from different banks and different orientiations, one facing east on the left bank, the other south west on the right bank.

Wine 1: Chablis 1er Cru Les Lys, 2016, Domaine William Fèvre 
Les Lys is a climat under the flag-bearer Vaillons on the left bank. 40-50% of this wine was vinified in French oak barrels, with average age of 6 years, and the rest in stainless steel vats. The portion in French oak barrels was aged 5-6 months on fine lees. A total of 13-14 months of ageing, with the last few months of the ageing in stainless steel vats.

Food Pairing Suggestion: Seabass or yellow tail ceviche with lime and coriander dressing


Wine 2: Chablis 1er Cru Fourchaume, 2016, Maison Simonnet-Febvre 
Fourchaume is on the right bank, with a south west exposure, hence a sunny terroir. This climat produces wines that are floral and accessible when young. They have a rounded texture and tend to be very charming. This is one of the smoothest climats.

The vinification of this wine saw no oak but long ageing on fine lees was preferred, with the wine spending 10-12 months on fine lees in stainless steel vats. The location of this climat makes it easily accessible.

Food Pairing Suggestion: I would recommend a Cantonese styled steamed garoupa.


Flight 2: Two vintages from the same climat of Montée de Tonnerre and same producer were tasted. Montée de Tonnerre is a west-facing climat on the right bank, well-protected from the east winds. The strong presence of marine minerality is explained by the concentration of Exogyra virgula and blue clay. Refined and elegant, the wines also have a powerful element, vibrancy and aromatic persistence. A prestigious Premier Cru climat with probably the greatest ageing potential.

The vinification method again differed from the previous two wines. Here the alcoholic and malolactic fermentations both took place in new barrels, with the wine then aged in stainless steel vats.


Wine 3: Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre, 2016, Charlène et Laurent Pinson Food Pairing Suggestion: Grilled lobster with butter sauce (the participant particularly referred to superior harmony, elegant structure and understated power of this wine that could only be paired with the delicate but fleshy texture of lobster with the richness of the butter sauce)



Wine 4 : Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre, 2015, Charlène et Laurent Pinson
Food Pairing Suggestion: Roasted chicken with black truffle (again the participant who suggested this dish visualised a perfect pairing, invoking the earthy notes of the truffle, married with the richness of the roasted chicken, that would pair so well with this deftly balanced while beguilingly accessible 2015 wine, with the freshness so well disguised by the opulent texture and well-portioned structure)

 

Flight 3: The last flight compared three wines from the same vintage but from different producers and different climats. All three wines were vinified in stainless steel vats, with no oak influence at all. 2014 was a tough vintage and one that could be called a vigneron vintage. It was a vintage that allowed terroirs to express themselves.


Wine 5: Chablis 1er Cru Beauroy, 2014, Domaine Sylvain Mosnier 
Beauroy is the northern most climat on the left bank, very exposed to the dry winds from the east. The slopes are very steep. Generous wines are produced here, but the smooth texture gives the impression of lower acidity and earlier approachability. The wines show more fruity character than floral.

Food Pairing Suggestion: Chiu Chow style cold crabs with be perfect with this wine. The crabmeat has a natural sweetness and the wine’s rounded texture and moderate acidity would pair extremely well. I would also add steamed har gau (Cantonese prawn dumplings)!


Wine 6 : Chablis 1er Cru Butteaux, 2014, Domaine Servin 
Butteaux is a climat under the flag bearer climat of left-bank Montmains. Butteaux is at the highest point of this side valley and has good exposure to the sun, but is also a cooler microclimate. The wines show strong minerality and generosity, but restrained by a tension that is uniquely Butteaux.

Food Pairing Suggestion: A participant said this wine took him back to an earlier Chablis and oysters experience. Nothing would pair better with this wine than the best oysters from Marennes-Oléron!


Wine 7: Chablis 1er Cru Vaucoupin, 2014, Château de Chemilly
This is naturally a warm terroir on the right bank, with exposures due south and west. However, this is also extremely exposed to wind. Here the wines are powerful and persistent, with a good volume, vibrant acidity and minerality. Citrus, white flowers and dried herbs are characters of the younger wines. A powerful wine that will evolve over time.

Food Pairing Suggestion: I loved this one. A participant suggested grilled mackerel (with horseradish). The fattiness of the fish would work very well with the acidity of the wine and yet the minerality of the fish would go so well with this broad-shouldered wine.

 

One hour was not enough time to realistically explain properly the diversity of Chablis premier cru climats and vintage variations. As the Bourgogne Wine Official Ambassador, I could only remind the participants that there was not just Chablis Premier Cru, that there were 40 climats across both left and right banks, and that vintages mattered, sometimes much more than others!

Please keep exploring to find your favourite style!

Reflecting on the 10th anniversary of the abolition of wine duty in HK

I was prompted by a key international industry figure to reflect on this important milestone in HK's wine history.  

On 27 February 2008, Hong Kong announced with much fanfare the abolition of excise duty on liquor with alcohol content at or below 30% (it was previously 40%) and the city's ambition to become Asia's wine hub. This government-led decision was designed to inject new economic dynamics and GDP growth into the city, allowing all aspects of the wine industry to flourish under this ruling. According to Euromonitor International, the HK wine market stood at US$ 1, 543 million in 2016, based on wine sales that recorded 6.5% per annum growth during the past 5 years (or 33.8 million litres). The same report forecast its continuous growth at 9.8% per annum in value, from 2016 to 2021 (or 3.1% per annum growth in volume). Hong Kong has firmly established itself as a successful wine trading hub, with a staggering number of wine importers, presence of world-class fine wine storage facilities, wine logistics companies and impressive wine auction results that would oftentimes beat London and New York. In 2016, wine auction sales in Hong Kong totalled US$ 92 million, according to Wine Spectator.

The WSET was also attracted by HK's wine hub status to open its first international office in Hong Kong in November 2016, leveraging from its proximity to the high-growth mainland Chinese market. Wine education, whether at professional level or targeted at amateurs, has become a must-have qualification, for most city executives and industrialists. To sustain the wine economy, Hong Kong needs to produce a regular stream of workforce with requisite level of wine knowledge. This has spurred the mushrooming of wine schools and wine courses in the city, leading to an increase in the number of wine industry professionals, qualified sommeliers and educated wine amateurs. Qualified sommeliers are quickly snapped up by the city's latest fine dining venues, to keep alive the gastronomic scene in Hong Kong, fueled by the awarding of Michelin stars and social media verdicts.

An average-sized apartment in Hong Kong is not the ideal place for home entertaining. As such, Hong Kong has developed a strong BYO culture, whereby almost all restaurants allow you to bring your own bottles, at corkage fees that range from friendly to intimidating. While there is no official data, it would not be difficult to imagine that Hong Kong hosts more wine-tastings and wine dinners per square metre of usable space than any other metropolis in the world, despite being far from holding the spot for the highest per capita consumption in the world. Wine consumption is restricted to a privileged minority percentage of the 7.5 million population. The average wine connoisseur in Hong Kong can be invited to a wine tasting or wine dinner every evening of the week. There is no room for lonely hearts and wine hermits. Hong Kong has successfully bred a community of fine wine devotees who can roll off the tip of their tongues the top wines from Burgundian domaines, reach out to the wine world's Who's Who via Whatsapp and boast a collection of trophy bottles.

Given the small percentage of real wine consumers in Hong Kong, the trade in Hong Kong is marked by a significant amount of it being re-exported. Growth has been significant since 2007. For example the imported value recorded HK$ 5.7 billion in the first half of 2017, compared to HK$ 1.6 billion in 2007. In volume terms this represented 30.3 million litres of wine imported in the first half of 2017, with about 43% of this re-exported. However, the growth is starting to deviate from a linear path, the imported value for this period actually showed a 9% decrease. The exported volume also saw a 24% decline, compared to a 9% growth in the same period last year. (Source: HKTDC Research, 4 September 2017)

Looking at the big picture, Hong Kong has fulfilled its lawmakers' prophecy of becoming a fine wine hub in the last decade, but what about its wine culture? Wine to many remains a subject of curiosity, a luxurious commodity that is only revered but not tasted. We have few dedicated wine bars in Hong Kong, and most drinking holes would need to double up as coffee and sandwich outlets during the day to pay for the high rentals. (https://www.thedrinksbusiness.com/2018/02/why-does-hong-kong-lack-true-wine-bars/)

Have some of us lost sight of what wine really is? It is a beverage first and foremost, albeit made by ingenious alchemy using interesting grape varieties and the skill of knowledgeable winemakers. Throughout history, it has fulfilled its role of pleasing the gods, nobility and government leaders, but its real destiny is to become a part of the everyday culture of people, providing spiritual enrichment to us humans when consumed modestly and responsibly. It is made to be enjoyed, with friends and family. Every bottle of wine has a history and a soul that is meant to evoke in us an emotion, an inspiration and most of all, an awareness of its ingenious creation. It is time Hong Kong started to embrace wine as part of our multi-racial culture, just like we have embraced French, Italian, Spanish and Japanese cuisines into our weekly food regime. This notion may help fuel the next decade of Hong Kong's wine industry development, while avoiding the phenomenon of falling consumption and dwindling sales in some developed cities, and the negative impact of falling re-exported sales. 

Wine education directed at the right audience will help create the right sentiment about wine, sparking more interest in a diversity of styles and price points. Is there more the government can do to help incorporate wine into the culture of Hong Kong? Has the once a year Wine & Dine Festival, approaching its 10th anniversary in October 2018, helped towards this goal or it has only benefitted the few with resources to put up a booth? Perhaps the government is quietly reluctant to make wine a popular cultural aspect, for fear of moral decline or social debauchery?

Fine wine merchants/importers have their pre-determined missions and pre-selected and targeted customer segments and private clients. While barrier to entering the wine selling sector is not high, rental prices remain as deterring as ever as in 2007 to ensure a continuous threat to the long-term survival of many wannabe neighbourhood wine retail shops. A number have shunned brick and mortar to turn to the online space, which still requires word of mouth to secure a loyal client base through the ethers. The duopoly in Hong Kong's supermarket retail sector features a selection of wines but the bottles may need more encouragement to find themselves more frequently in shoppers' baskets.

The generic bodies certainly have vested interest in growing the wine culture in Hong Kong. At one level, they are not so much at conflict with each other. The bigger the pie grows, the larger is everyone's share. Alas, most of them view the growth potential of the Hong Kong market as limited. While they have not totally given up on Hong Kong's spoilt palates, more budget has been allocated to nurturing the more acute and curious palates of mainland China with younger and more eager involved consumers.

Hong Kong, limited in space and in population, may remain that fine wine hub we were destined to be, and fine wine consumption will continue to thrive amongst the privileged few. The overwhelming success of Hong Kong's fine wine business has drawn some quiet undercurrents of discontent with the state of wine affairs in Hong Kong​. One such manifestation is the recent organisation of VINsurrection, a collective of 7 local wine importers that specialise in high quality artisan wines​ to showcase the diversity of Hong Kong's wine scene at an annual tasting.  The event organisers declare this as the antidote to stuffy, buttoned-up tastings. ​

This is not jealousy, simply a desire for a more balanced and interesting lifestyle.  In the press release about the 3rd edition of Bourgogne Week in Hong Kong, BIVB sent messages to Hong Kong's trade and consumers to focus on lesser-known village and regional appellations, that offer a rich and varied portfolio to satisfy Bourgogne enthusiasts, at much more attractive prices. A key motivating factor behind this appeal was the concern of meeting demand with successive vintages of reduced volumes.

I believe Hong Kong is eager to show the world that our market has matured since 2008. Education feeds curiosity and breeds interest. Our trade needs to offer new experiences to our consumers.  We need to educate our younger generation of wine consumers about diversity and the culture of wine.  

I am excited to see that there is a lament of the lack of a wine culture because improvement can only come from this. 

Meursault in a Class Above

1 February 2018:

Continuing with the live-streamed masterclass series on Bourgogne wines simultaneously broadcast to multiple global markets by the Bourgogne Wine Board (BIVB), Hong Kong kicked off 2018 with a well-attended session on Meursault and its climats on 31 January. [#BIVBRDV]

Meursault wines are well loved by consumers and trade professionals around the world. This masterclass hosted by the Bourgogne Wine Board further explores the nuances in topography and geology of the Meursault vineyards to explain the diversity of the wines of Meursault, finishing with a tasting of 6 Meursault climats.

In 1098, the Duke of Bourgogne donated land in Meursault to the Abbey of Citeaux, signifying the importance of this vineyard. Using wine as a political tool, the Duchy of Bourgogne significantly raised the profile of Bourgogne wines across Europe and with it, the reputation of the white wines of Meursault. By the mid 18th Century, Meursault’s reputation was widely spread across France. In an official account in 1788, Les Charmes, Les Perrières, Les Genevrières and Les Gouttes d’Or were already named as best sites for Meursault wine. Meursault’s fame and importance had attracted many aristocratic families to establish stately homes, complete with barns and cellars, in the village of Meursault, located just 8 km south of Beaune, on the Côte de Beaune. In 1923, at the initiative of Jules Lafon, the first Paulée de Meursault took place, in an effort to promote local wines on a national scale. From a modest attendance of 35 guests at the inaugural Paulée, this significant and convivial finale event of Les Trois Glorieuses which marks the end of the auction of wines at the Hospices de Beaune in November, has received strong media attention. In 2017, this event was attended by 742 guests from Bourgogne and beyond.

The Meursault AOC was created in 1937. As the list of premier cru climats was drawn up in 1943, during the Second World War, in an effort to protect national assets, many of Meursault’s top vineyards joined this prestigious ranking. Meursault covers a vineyard area of 397 hectares, dominated by white wine production. The area under production for white wine is 385 ha (including 105 ha for Premier Cru), leaving just 12 ha for red wine production (including 2 ha of Premier Cru). The diversity and quality of Meursault wines is expressed not just by its 19 distinct premier cru climats but also by a long list of lieux-dits.

 

Source: www.bourgogne-wines.com

One may wonder with so much historic interest and indisputable reputation and quality, why there are no Grand Cru climats in Meursault. According to Stéphane Follin-Arbelet, CEO of Château de Meursault, the answer is a simple one: tax reasons. In order to avoid higher taxes for its wines at the beginning of the 20th Century, along with its neighbours Volnay and Pommard, Meursault decided not to promote any wines to the Grand Cru status. Today, the top Premier Cru climats of Meursault command prices in the market as competitive as those for the Grand Cru wines in neighbouring villages.

To explain the diversity of styles, Jean-Pierre Renard, Official Educator of L’Ecole des Vins de Bourgogne, took us through the geology and topography of the vineyards. As a result of tectonic movements and geological events, the Meursault vineyard is not one gentle slope, but one built on irregular steps, separated by plantings of bushes and trees. At the bottom step/level, there is a thin layer of marl with compact limestone that has been carved from the quarries. The next distinct level shows a limestone layer called Pearly slab. Near the top, the marl soil is more recent, dating from the Upper Jurassic period, stopped by compact limestone at the summit.

In terms of vineyard area, Meursault can be divided in general into 3 different parts. The first part is at the north side of the village, to the left bank of the Ruisseau des Cloux which runs down from Auxey Duresses, extending to the villages of Monthélie and Volnay. Here the vineyards enjoy a gentle slope, with perfect SE exposure. Vineyards near the Ruisseau des Cloux enjoy the cool air that comes with the flowing water. You find the Premier Cru climats of Les Cras and Les Caillerets at the north end, together with the peculiarity of sharing vineyards with Volnay. Where Pinot Noir is grown, the wine is called Volnay-Santenots Premier Cru and where Chardonnay is grown, the wine is called Meursault-Santenots Premier Cru. The second part is located NW of the village, from 220 metres to nearly 380 metres. Here we have mostly village level wines. With the influence of the cool air from the valley of Auxey Duresses, vine maturation is slowed at higher vineyard sites such as Les Luchets, Les Meix Chavaux and Les Vireuils, and their wines have a signature freshness. The third part of the Meursault vineyard is located at the south of the village. Here, the landscape is marked by a number of geological faults, thus leading to much diversity in soil structure. At the lower slopes, the soil is deeper, covered with pebbles and scree. The soil structure becomes more marl-based higher up, followed by more compact limestone, such as in Les Perrières, or the upper parts of Les Genevrières and Les Bouchères, at higher altitudes. Another peculiarity, similar to that with Volnay, here Meursault shares vineyards with neighbouring Blagny. Where Pinot Noir is grown, the wine is Blagny or Blagny Premier Cru, and where Chardonnay is grown, it can be Meursault-Blagny Premier Cru or Meursault Premier Cru, with the name of the climat, such as La Pièce sous le Bois and Sous le Dos d’Ane.

The wine styles of Meursault have evolved over the years. They used to be described as ample, rounded, fleshy and oaky. With better understanding of the soils and subsoils, microclimatic conditions, and vinification improvements, Meursault wines are now much better expressions of their diverse terroirs. Marion Javillier of Domaine Patrick Javillier said that winemaking used to involve a lot of bâtonnage, extended élevage and heavier use of oak, and winemakers used to make one cuvée by blending in different climats. Today, the wines of Meursault are much more refined and elegant - each wine is a distinct expression of the individual climat. Some are more rounded and rich while others are more mineral.

When asked how to differentiate Meursault from its illustrious neighbours of Chassagne-Montrachet and Puligny-Montrachet, Renard said that Chassagne would be recognised for having more structure and body while Puligny would be recognised for its elegance, finesse and delicate structure. Meursault would be in between these two, showing an elegant structure backed by distinct minerality.

A wine of such reputation can sometimes be accompanied by a deterring price. To this, Renard recommended the wines from the appellation of Saint Aubin as a “rapport prix-qualité” option for those on a more modest budget.

To experience this diversity of styles, we tasted 6 wines selected by BIVB:

Six different expressions of Meursault

Meursault Les Pierres, 2015, Domaine Jean Chartron

“Les Pierres” is a cuvée created with vines from Les Tillets and Les Gorges de Narvaux. The higher altitude lends a certain steely tension and freshness to the wine. It displays a mineral character, overlaid with nutty and floral nuances. The use of oak (30% new oak) is well-integrated and subtly discernible. This wine could benefit from some aging to soften out the youthful edginess.

Meursault Les Tillets, 2015, Domaine Patrick Javillier

The word “Tillets” is derived from the tree “tilleul” or lime blossom. The stony vineyard of Les Tillets is higher up, between 320 and 380 metres in altitude. The nose of this wine is textbook Meursault, with floral and nutty notes, hinted with oak spice. The palate is rounded, balanced, with well-defined freshness. Refined, elegant, and a clean lingering finish. New oak use is 30%, with 11 months élevage in oak plus 4 months in stainless steel vats. Already a great expression of Les Tillets, it will benefit from another year of cellaring before tasting.

Meursault Les Charrons, 2015, Maison Vincent Girardin

The word “Charrons” is derived from the word “charrettes”, recalling the time when this area was grown with trees for making carts. This is more powerful and fleshy in style, with softer acidity. Almond, floral and hint of beeswax notes, with a distinct chalky minerality. 15% new oak is used. Ageing for 14 months, with the last month in stainless steel vats.

Meursault Premier Cru, Poruzots, 2015, Domaine Philippe Bouzereau, Château de Citeaux

The word “Poruzots” is derived from the word “porroux” referring to areas with rocky soils. This wine seems more austere at this stage, broad-shouldered, with a very tight structure, and not very expressive at this stage. This will benefit from 2-3 years of cellaring time.

The question of drinking windows prompted Renard to recall the experience of tasting a still vivid Meursault from the 1846 vintage (we guess it was a recent-ish experience!). However, for the wines made today in a more approachable and expressive style, his recommended drinking window for Meursault Village is about 4 – 5 years and for Premier Cru, 5 – 10 years, depending on the climat.

Meursault Premier Cru, Blagny, 2015, Domaine Faiveley

This is at once a more approachable style than the previous example. Creamy texture belies a still tight but elegant structure. Citrus, floral and spicy notes. Richness, elegance and finesse all wrapped into one here. Although the 50% new oak is discernible, it seems well-integrated into the structure of the wine, enriching the wine aromatically and giving the wine a mellow creamy texture. A very sophisticated Meursault-Blagny Premier Cru.

Meursault Premier Cru, Genevrières, 2014, Domaine Latour-Giraud

This domaine is the largest holder of the climat Les Genevrières in Meursault, with 2.5 ha out of a total of 16 ha for the entire climat). The vines are over 40 years old. The word “Genevrières” is derived from the reference to juniper bushes, with prickly needles and purple berries that grow well on limestone soil. There is a vibrant freshness, that is characteristic of the vintage, balanced by the richness and intensity from the climat, complete with a linear structure. An elegant wine with purity and intensity that will enhance its cellaring development over the next 2-3 years.

Consistent high quality and diversity make Meursault wines, at all levels, a compelling choice for your cellar. Follin-Arbelet concurred, “Meursault is [definitely] a wine to have in your cellar!” Out of his domaine’s portfolio, his two favourite climats were Charmes-Dessus and Les Perrières. The power and richness in Charmes-Dessus reminds him of a panda, strong yet comfortable [cuddly?] while the sinewy and mineral Les Perrières reminds him of a wild horse. As for Javillier, she would choose the rounder and richer Clos du Cromin as the perfect accompaniment for chicken and meat dishes, whereas the minerality and elegance of Les Tillets would be perfect for shellfish and Asian food.

Happy hunting for your favourite Meursault climats!

 

Acknowledgement:
As the host of this masterclass and a Bourgogne Wines Ambassador, I would like to thank Berry Bros & Rudd for the use of their tasting room venue for this masterclass and their staff for being so helpful.