1982 and 1985 La Conseillante

28 Oct 2011: Casual gathering with a few friends at home.  We thought it would be fun to try side by side 2 magnums of La Conseillante - 1982 and 1985, together with a 1996 Pol Roger Extra Cuvée de Réserve Chardonnay, 1999 Leflaive Puligny Montrachet Les Pucelles and a 2007 Climens to round off the evening.....perhaps not so casual after all!

1996 Pol Roger Extra Cuvée de Réserve Chardonnay:  Bright golden.  Mature bouquet of acacia, honey, pear tart (the one with lots of marzipan), toast, nougat and spices (cardamon and ginger).  The rich intensity of the flavours and the gorgeously creamy mousse skilfully bolstered by vibrant acidity.  Very persistent length.  Drink now and for the next 10 - 15 years.  17.5/20

1999 Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet Les Pucelles: Lemony colour, bright but not deep. The wine does not seem to have fallen on the ill fate of premature oxidation - what a relief!  Hints of floral, beeswax, apricot, and tons of minerality on the nose, after the initial reductive beginning.  On the palate, the wine seemed more reserved and slightly taut, and the flavours less intense - perhaps it could do with a bit more time to flesh out and develop further complexity?  Firm acidity, lengthy finish.  No need to drink this in a hurry but definitely drinking well  now.  Drink now to 2020.   17/20

1982 La Conseillante (magnum): Decanted for 2 hours.  It was impossible not to be impressed by the rich concentration and intensity of this wine.  On the palate, the fully integrated tannin was completely melted into a body could only be described as voluptuous.  The mouthcoating texture took the sweet flavours of blackberry, tobacco, leather, liquorice, and sweet cocoa round the palate, and left you with a lingering memory of harmony and power.  Drink now to 2025+. 18.5/20

1985 La Conseillante (magnum): Decanted for 2 hours.  An altogether different style, silky rather than velvety, less concentrated, but rather appreciated for its fine detail and elegance.  A nose of raspberry and redcurrant, star anise, earthy and tobacco.  Much more acidity than the 1982 vintage, rendering it a cleaner and fresher palate.  A gorgeous wine, with a lot of character and potential to develop further.  Drink now to 2020+.  18/20

See if you can spot at least 6 differences between the two labels!

2007 Climens: Simply gorgeous, vibrant and mouthfilling and extremely well-balanced with perfectly pitched acidity.  Apricot, marmalade, floral, honey and some refreshing citrus character.   Finish went on and on.  This is drinking now and will continue to evolve over next 30+ years!  18.5+/20