2 December 2011: In celebration of its 25th Anniversary, the HK Chapter of Commanderie de Bordeaux had organised a series of special dinners, sourcing wine directly from the châteaux. On this evening, it was Château Cos d'Estournel. Président Directeur Général Jean-Guillaume Prats spoke with much enthusiasm and pride of the achievements Bordeaux had made in this Century, with the help of global warming, and enhanced capital for investment in wineries and vineyards, making great wines a regular possibility. He also very politically correctly applauded the audience in continuing to support Bordeaux, buying Bordeaux wine even with the staggering case prices.
The Grand Hyatt did a great job with the dishes, in particular I really enjoyed the pairing of braised venison shoulder with 2005 Cos d'Estournel!
Marinated Scallop Carpaccio and Lobster Tartar on Cauliflower Pannacotta, Oscietra Caviar
Pan-fried Foie Gras with Brioche and Dry Fruit Crust, Winter Berry Jelly, Mache and Light Coffee Foam
Slow-roasted Venison Loin and Truffle Crepinette, Braised Shoulder, Mushrooms, Chestnut Puree, Shallots Fondant, Juniper-Rosemary Jus
Baked Vacherin cheese with Oven Fresh Baguette
Pear William Creme Chibouste with Vanilla Poached Pear, Cassis Ice Cream and Fig
2008 Cos d'Estournel Blanc: 80% Sauvignon Blanc and 20% Semillon. Elderflower, grapefruit, a salty minerality. Medium-bodied, the mild richness well-balanced by acidity just right. Did a great job pairing with the sweet raw scallop. 15.5/20
2007 Cos d'Estournel: 2007, a vintage saved by an Indian summer, late harvest, towards end of the ripening season, Jean-Guillaume compared to 1979. 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Merlot, and 3% Cabernet Franc. In the words of Jean-Guillaume, fruity and seductive. Plum, black cherry pie, cassis, incense, bergamot, liquorice and some toasted oak. Very smooth tannin, with only the slightest hint of astringency. Medium bodied. Drinking very well now (a great food wine!) and for the next 12+ years. 17/20
2002 Cos d'Estournel: Likened to 1955 by Jean-Guillaume, very smalll berries and very little juice. Much less generous than the 2007. Blackcurrant leaf, cigar box, mixed berries (more red than black), with a hint of herbaceousness. Not showing its best here. Rather reserved, slightly mean on the palate. Lighter bodied than the 2007 vintage. Drink now and for next 10+ years. 15.5/20
2005 Cos d'Estournel: 2005 vintage: very long ripening season from budding to flowering; humid winter giving the vines a good water reserve, very dry summer, rain in early August (helped veraison), very cool nights in September. 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, blended with 19% Merlot and 3% Cabernet Franc. Gorgeous beauty, with an aristocratic nose, regal power and yet supreme elegance. Plum, blackberries, chocolate, cardamon spices, cayenne pepper, with a hint of leather. Ripe palate-coating velvety texture, with firm acidity giving the wine such regal poise. Long sweet finish. Surprising drinking very well now, and for the next 30+ years! 19.5/20
2000 Cos d'Estournel: 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 38% Merlot, and 2% Cabernet Franc. Lead pencil, black cherry, herbal, violet and cedar, only very lightly spiced. Where the 2005 was powerful and elegant, 2002 was graceful and charming, but much more evolved. A lovely wine but not one for the very long haul. Drink now and for next 10 - 15 years. 16.5/20
We didn't have the 2003 Cos d'Estournel, which when I last tasted a year ago was nowhere near ready for drinking. Jean-Guillaume briefly talked about the challenges from the heat wave in 2003. It was 46 degrees Celsius in Bordeaux and the topsoil measured 52 degrees Celsius. 2003 could certainly look forward to the lasting greatness of 1961 and 1982!
All fabulous wines that just proved the great improvements this chateau had made in this decade - simply stunning wines! Everyone's favourite seemed clearly the 2005, but I was also rather fond of the 2007, especially to accompany food with spicy or complexly flavoured dishes (thinking of meatballs in spicy tomato sauce, those gourmet mini-burgers or chicken or lamb tagine with cous-cous or even just a well-seasoned lasagne!!! Yummy!).
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