Monday 26 December 2011

2000 Richebourg, DRC and 2004 Cristal

24 Dec 2011:  Christmas Eve dinner at the China Club in Hong Kong.  A fine occasion to share a bottle or two of something special.  2004 Cristal, Louis Roederer: 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay. Beautiful pure fruit of apple and citrus, layered with floral and mineral nuances. I can only think of linearity and precision for this well-crafted champagne of phenomenal delicacy and elegance. Creamy mousse and full of vibrant positive energy.  This wine will reward the patient collector, but it can easily be enjoyed today.   18/20

2000 Richebourg, DRC:  After about half an hour of aeration, gorgeously ripe red cherry, pot pourri, forest floor, truffle and a richly spicy nose, infiltrated with the hallmark minerality. Harmoniously balanced, perfect acidity, with well-integrated fine tannin giving the wine a velvety and mouthcoating texture in a mid-weight frame, guiding the delicate and complex flavours permeate the palate. Not the richest, nor most powerful or structured Richebourg, but the pedigree, aromatic seduction and sophistication are very evident.  Quite refined. We took the remainder of the bottle home and it had graduated into this totally seductive, sumptuous and velvety nectar, with a very long finish!  There was a fine Richebourg!  This wine can do with a few more years of cellaring for best enjoyment and it should provide some very fine enjoyment over 15+ years! 18+/20   



Apart from the first two courses which were seriously and unforgivably disappointing (barbecued pork that could be made into tough old boots and stone-cold Peking duck and pancakes - the pancakes were so cold that they went soggy and stuck together!), the other dishes, while not of first class gourmet quality, did live up to the usual expectations.  For this wintry season, I recommend two claypot dishes: braised garoupa with beancurd and spring onion and aubergines and minced pork!   

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