10 Dec 2011: Dinner at Ta Pantry, a very charming 1-table only private kitchen in the setting of a cosy apartment, on Star Street in HK. Esther (Proprietor and Head Chef) had already committed to another event but we were very well looked after by the team of chefs and waiter as well as Esther's sister. Ta Pantry offers different set menus, all based on Esther's interpretation of different regional cuisine types. Our theme was L'Indochine. I liked most the starter of Hokkaido scallop in a green mango curry carpaccio, on sea urchin cream and the Coco Balsamic linguine tossed with exotic mushrooms (probably could do without the squid). (Patrick and I asked for seconds, but they said they had run out!) The crabmeat ravioli in lemongrass scented chicken broth was delicious but I thought the pasta was a little too chewy for the delicately-flavoured broth.....wonton skin might be a better alternative.....I didn't try the veal cheek cooked with star anise, accompanied by compote of mint and pineapple, and brussel sprouts, which looked delicious but the portion looked quite small to me, given that we kind of needed more meaty sustenance to keep up with the flight of hearty wines! A nice cheese platter and dessert of red wine poached pear crumble, with tapioca and tiramisu ice-cream rounded up the evening.
Each couple (sorry Christine couldn't join us) brought 2 bottles, one each from the 2000 and 2001 vintages, for their chosen Bordeaux château. I thought that both 2000 and 2001 vintages were drinking beautifully now, although the 2000's, with the higher concentration, intensity and ripeness, would have much more evolution ahead in the bottle and a much longer life, longer than the 2001 by about 10 - 15 years, based on the bottles this evening. The 2001's all showed a hint of greenness from this vintage, sometimes already apparent on the nose but much more evident on the palate. The 2001's also had a slightly shorter finish (and slightly drying) compared with the 2000's.
As for the vintage conditions, 2000 enjoyed a hot dry August and September, with rain arriving around mid October. The wines are rich, robustly structured, deep-coloured and tannic, with good acidity. These are wines for long-term cellaring. 2001 enjoyed a hot dry August but a cooler and drier September. This resulted in less power and concentration but there would be more elegance and charm. Merlot did well in 2001. Rain arrived towards end of the harvest.
2001 Angélus, Saint-Emilion: Gratifying nose of black cherry, chocolate, mocha, liquorice, and spicy, with plums and figs gradually coming to the fore. Well-balanced and elegant, within a moderately proportioned supple structure, much less generous than the 2000. Slightly drying finish. Best to be enjoyed with food. Drink now and for next 6 - 8 years. 16/20
2000 Angélus, Saint Emilion: Very similar nose, but with much more intensity and concentratation than the 2001, enhanced by graphite, minerality and cigar box character. An opulent and full-bodied wine of tremendous proportions and great textural richness, complete with elegantly layered complexities and balancing acidity refreshing the palate. Voluptuous and seductive. A phenomenal effort and a substantial vin de garde. Suspect this would have a relatively high percentage of Cabernet Franc in the final blend. Drinking now (with decanting time of 2 hours) and for next 20+ years. 18.5/20
2001 Vieux Château Certan, Pomerol: 70% Merlot and 30% Cabernet Franc. A rich bouquet of blackberry, black cherry, violet, liquorice, cedar and minerality. Some slightly camphor/forest floor and leather nuances. Very supple structure, with low-ish acidity and a ripe tannic structure, perhaps just a touch less concentrated than the 2000, but this pair was probably closest stylistically than the other pairs. Drink now and for the next 10 - 15+ years. 17/20
2000 Vieux Château Certan, Pomerol: 70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc, and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. Cassis, blackberry, violet, mocha, liquorice, underlined with minerality, with cedar after some aeration in the glass. Very admirable for the purity of fruit, measured elegance and supple texture. Lower in acidity than the 2000 Angélus, but very firm tannic structure. Finishes long - slightly drying. An intellectual wine. Definitely drinking now and for the next 15+ years. 17.5+/20
2001 Léoville Poyferré, Saint Julien: Something quite savoury here, with blackkcurrant leaf and plums. Well-textured and balanced. Slightly bitter finish. Drink now and for next 6- 8 years. 16/20
2000 Léoville Poyferré, Saint Julien: (The field blend for Léoville Poyferré is typically 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 8% Petit Verdot and 2% Cabernet Franc, with 75% new oak and ageing for upt to 20 months.) This was a beauty. Very elegantly structured and velvety textured with rich fruit concentration and ripe but firm tannin. Savoury, minerally/graphite, blackcurrant, cassis, , blackberry compote and violet. Lingering finish. Absolutely gorgeous. Drinking very well now and for the next 15+ years. 18/20
2001 Gruaud Larose, Saint Julien: I found this rather austere and rather backward, not eager to please. I suspect this might improve with more decanting time. Some tobacco, leather and herbal notes accompanying the plum and star anise and clove spices. Rather lighter in structure. Drink now and for next 6 - 8 years. 16/20
2000 Gruaud Larose, Saint Julien: (The field blend is around 61% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Merlot and 5% each for Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, with around 50% new oak.) A classic Saint Julien, showing some of the muscles, balanced by supple elegance. Blueberry and blackberry, violet, herbal, leather and something from the forest floor. This shows more evolution than the Léoville Poyferré. Beautiful to drink now and for the next 15+ years. 17.5/20
Thank you to Jonathan and Lorraine for hosting us. My vote would be the Angélus 2000 as my top wine, followed by the Léoville Poyferré 2000. Best 2001 was the Vieux Château Certan. All great wines and really perfect with food at this relative young age!
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