2006 La Mission Haut Brion

17 Dec 2011: Last night, we went to the Commanderie de Bordeaux Gala Dinner.  As usual, lots of inductions (including Richard's) that took a good part of half an hour before food arrived.  The first course should have been named 'Death by Foie Gras'.....I have not seen so much foie gras on one plate......foie gras terrine with black truffle, foie gras foam and pan fried foie gras with pain d'épicé crust......The Aile d'Argent Blanc 2007 did a good job pairing with it.  The honey, lanolin, passion fruit, elderflower and slightly grassy and herbal nose, with a medium weight body, and fresh acidity to balance the richness on the palate, paired just well with the foie gras.  Drink now and over next 8 - 10 years.  16/20   The Pavillon Rouge 2004 in magnum, which showed some smokey and earthy character, underneath the slightly green and underripe nose......was a little ungenerous and disappointing.  Drink now and for next 4 - 5 years?  15/20

I was not sure why the second course of double boiled black truffle consommé with forest mushroom ravioli was chosen to pair with the Grand Puy Lacoste 2006 and Calon Ségur 2004.   Lovely nose for the Grand Puy Lacoste: plum, cassis, black cherry, liquorice, chocolate, slightly smokey and some minerality...the acidity was lower and the finish, though rounded and smooth, was a little on the short side, after the textured body and smooth ripe tannin structure.  Perhaps it was heading for a shutdown......16/20  None of us found the Calon Ségur 2004 endearing at all.....quite a lot of underripeness, lead pencil, graphite.  Astringent tannin.  15.5/20

The 2006 La Mission Haut Brion was chosen to pair with the slow roasted tenderloin, with braised oxtail buckwheat crepe roulade.  Defnitely for me, star of the evening.  It showed lovely terroir characteristics, gravelling, smokey, spicy and violet, plus a concentrated fruit ripeness which I liked.  Excellent acidity and ripe smooth tannin, all wrapped up in a firm but rounded structure with plenty of density and minerality.  Yummy.  Not sure how long it was opened for, but you could argue that it's still not ready....but I rather like the acidity and the structure to go with the food. Drink now and over next 25+ years.   18.5/20

I found the 1998 Mouton Rothschild slightly disappointing.  I found it rather austere, ungenerous and somewhat on the lean and mean side.  Something herbal and earthy on the nose.  Rather quiet and subdued for a wine of its stature. An uninteresting finish.  Drink now and over next 10+ years......17/20  Strangely it was used to pair with the cheese, deep fried Brie de Meaux spring rolls - a number of us complained that there was no cheese inside the spring rolls, just some crispy skin and some chutney!

The dessert platter was rather nice and a nice match with the 1997 Coutet - honey, gingerbread, orange peel and pineapple.  Quite nice. 16/20

A few charity announcements in the middle.....hope they sold lots of the watches designed by local students......rather smart!

So there ended the 25th Anniversary series of wine dinners.....for the HK Chapter of the Commanderie de Bordeaux.......a jovial and well-attended event!