First Visit to Amo Eno

Savoury HK waffles with 3 dips

29 Dec 2011: I could not resist the temptation any longer and decided to take a quick look at Amo Eno, the latest wine bar concept in HK.  Amo Eno (Love Wine) is the brainchild of 3 people: Andrew Bradbury (formerly Wine Director of Aureole, Las Vegas) who has mastered the art of combining wine and technology, Brook Bradbury (Design Director) and Charles Banks (Investor). Amo Eno features a very large range of wine by the glass, with everything from a tasting sample priced at HK$ 19 to a tasting sample at over HK$ 1,000.  There is something for everyone, with wines sourced from France, Italy, Spain, Austria, California, Canada and so on....and grape varieties from the familiar to the more adventurous.  It's very smartly designed, making full use of glass and light bulbs to create a more open feel within what would normally be quite a small space!  It's quite easy to go wild there with the spending.....a bit of strategic planning wouldn't be a bad idea!

I was told that the badly needed bar stools would be coming soon.....as would be an Enomatic that takes sparkling wine. For now, there is no tasting measure for sparkling wine - not that it bothered me. I rather enjoyed the glass of Agrapart Les Sept Crus (100% Chardonnay, a blend of wine made from young vines planted in the 7 crus owned by the family, entry-level champagne, refreshing with nice complexity and a lovely creamy texture).  There is a semi private area, which comfortably seats 12 I think.  I ordered a snack from the menu: the savoury Hong Kong waffles, with dips: champagne mustard, muscat bacon and sherry cherry chutney. The muscat bacon was a firm favourite....a naughty play between sweet and savoury!  I wasn't so sure about the sherry cherry, thinking that it might be too much for pairing with most wines, except Italian reds?  Richard quite liked the champagne mustard - I was thinking a parmesan or cheesy dip would be better.  We were told by the friendly sommelier that the sandwiches were really delicious and the ingredients of very high quality.  The best value French white was probably the Bouzeron by de Villaine. I haven't spent too much time browsing the reds, but the Petalos by Descendientes de J. Palacios caught my eye as a good value red!

I am definitely going back to try again when we have a bigger group.  There are 3 pouring measures....I recommend going for the middle-sized measure and sharing with someone!  Also a great place for corporate entertainment!

Faiveley Mercurey Blanc and an under-appreciated Roumier

The simplified label of Faiveley Mercurey

28 Dec 2011: Dinner at Spring Moon Restaurant at the Peninsula Hotel, HK - there was an urgent need to use up a soon-to-expire cash voucher!  We had brought a half bottle of 2005 Roumier Morey Saint Denis Clos de La Bussière with us.  So we ordered a half bottle of 2008 Mercurey Blanc by Domaine Faiveley on the wine list.  The wine list described the wine as Mercurey Blanc Domaine de La Croix Jacquelet, Domaine Faiveley but when the bottle arrived, it just says "Mercurey". There followed a long deliberation between Richard and the restaurant sommelier about the wine.  After enquiring at the domaine, I was told that before the 2008 vintage, the domaine had used the name "Domaine de La Croix Jacquelet" which was a lieu-dit next to where the wine was vinified.  From the 2008 vintage, this lieu-dit name was dropped from the label, leaving it just "Mercurey" - it's effectively the same wine!  Perhaps the restaurant would like to update the wine list to avoid further confusion!

Mercurey is a commune from the Côte Chalonnaise.  Better known for its reds, but there is also a decent quantity of white being produced.  The whites tend to have spicy, nutty and floral character, with a hint of flint.  The 2008 from Faiveley definitely showed some flinty and grassy character, with some stylistic similarity to a Sauvignon Blanc, but it remains a simple wine, better as aperitif than served with food!  Amongst all the white wine from the Côte Chalonnaise, my favourite is perhaps the Rully for floral, minerality and flinty character, wihth lemony and peach notes.  while Montagny is great for pairing with food with creamy sauce - I love that honeyed and nutty character and fat mouthfeel, which in the right hands should be balanced by some refreshing minerality and acidity!

The half bottle of 2005 Roumier Morey-Saint-Denis Clos de la Bussière was simply not ready, but we waited ever so patiently for it to open up in the glass!  By the end of the dinner, it showed a lovely red fruit and mineral-laced nose, with some nuances of earth and tea leaves. Palate packed with ripe fruit and an integrated structure of ripe tannin and fine acidity.  Gorgeous finish.  A very classy wine offering qualities of a top premier cru, still retaining a touch of its typical rustic charm.  If I may quote Allen Meadows: ".....And in terms of value, I have noticed a real improvement in the Clos de la Bussière over the last few vintages and if there is a value play in the Roumier portfolio other than the Les Cras, the Bussière is it."  Try this 2005 again in 3 - 4 years time, and I am sure it will deliver some very gratifying results!  16.5+/20

Morey-Saint-Denis Clos de la Bussière (around 2.59 ha) is a monopoly of the Domaine Georges Roumier.  It was once upon a time donated to the Abbaye de la Bussière.  Today, a boutique hotel takes the place of the once holy buildings.  Red clay soils dominate here, lending a rustic style to the wine.  This premier cru is literally next door to Chambolle Musigny (below the level of Les Sentiers). 

Service at dinner was excellent, but we were both a little disappointed by the food - we came to the conclusion that we didn't know which dishes to order.  The deep-fried garoupa in soya sauce and scallion was a little on the soggy side.  The crab claw in egg white was ok, but at this price, did not quite compare with same dish at Tim's Kitchen or Man Wah. The Szechuan prawns in chilli sauce were rather indifferent, after having been warned about the degree of spiciness. I had to pile on extra chilli sauce to remind myself that it was meant to be a spicy dish. The version at the China Club was much better.  The only dish which was quite tasty was the Wuxi style spare ribs, which came piping hot, served in a claypot, with plenty of sauce.  The sauce was tasty, but the texture was quite thin.  A similar dish at Lung King Heen, at the Four Seasons, which came individually served in mini pots, seemed to me the superior version, with a slightly thicker sauce.  Finally, we should have gone for stir fried green vegetable rather than the rather bland stir fried mixed vegetable in a bird's nest!  Not the most appetising looking dish!

We kept admiring our next door neighbour's dishes - they seemed to know what to order.....and brought their own magnum bottle of Clos des Papes.  Next time, I think we will just take a quick look around us and say to our waiter, "We'll have exactly the same dishes as the other table!"

1998 Dujac Clos Saint Denis

27 Dec 2011: Deep ruby core. Best with 1.5 hours of decanting. A most enchanting perfume of violet, black cherry and plum, with earthy, forest floor and Asian spices. Beautiful and pure ripe pinot fruit on entry, leading to a velvety texture, framing the ripe and firm tannin and lowish acidity. I love the very rounded and substantial mouthfeel and understated elegance. Drinking well now and for next 10 - 12+ years. 18/20

Celebrating Single Varietal Rhone Wines

26 Dec 2011: A few days ago, a group of us got together at the New Shanghai Restaurant at the HK Convention & Exhibition Centre for dinner.  It was a relatively chilly evening in HK and in anticipation of the hearty Shanghainese food, we decided on the theme of Rhone Valley wines. 

2008 Les Chaillées de L'Enfer, Domaine Georges Vernay: 100% Viognier.  Floral, honeysuckle and violet, apricot, peach, with nuances of smoke and minerality.  Full-bodied, unctuous, but deftly balanced with good level of acidity.  Very very long finish.  A little young to drink now - plenty of decanting is recommended.  Drink over next 10 - 15 years.  It went brilliantly with the Shanghainese ham sandwich smeared with osmanthus-flavoured syrup.  17.5/20 

The vines for this wine are planted at south to southeast exposure on very steep granitic slopes.  Average age 40 years old.  Production is about 5,000 bottles. Cold soak on skin before fermentation.  Fermentation in 225 litre barrels during 3 - 4 weeks, plus ageing on fine lees before bottling - about 12 months after vintage.

This domaine is the second largest producer in the appellation of Condrieu.  Georges Vernay created the business with just 1.5 ha of Condrieu vines.  Today, the estate has 7 ha of Condrieu vines, of which 3 ha are planted with very old vines dedicated to the prestigious cuvées of Les Chaillées de L'Enfer and Coteau de Vernon.  They now also have substantial plantins in Côte Rôtie and Saint Joseph.  See: http://www.georges-vernay.fr/


2004 Pure, Châteauneuf du Pape, Domaine La Barroche: 100% Grenache.  Red cherry, raspberry, white pepper, liquorice, slightly vegetal, Mediterranean herbs, slowly developing into prune, dried fruit and caramel notes with further aeration in the decanter.  Initially a slight bitterness at the finish, which dissipated after some aeration.  Sweet fruit on entry, expanding with its complex flavours on the palate and a long finish.  Med-weight Châteauneuf du Pape, made with a light touch.  Lovely complexity and finesse.  Drink now and over next 8 - 10 years.  16.5/20

The vines for this wine come from a single parcel (named Grand Pierre) of 100-year-old vines planted on sandy soils, next to the Rayas sector. Fermentation at 31 degrees in concrete tanks with maceration of about 4 weeks.  15-month ageing takes places in old 35 hectolitre oak casks for gentle oxygenation. 

The family has been making wine at the domaine siince 14th Century.  2003 was the first vintage sold in bottle and not in bulk. Julien Barrot took over the running of the domaine in 2006.  They now have 30 acres of plantings in the Châteauneuf du Pape area, mainly around north and northeast.  Harmonious viticulture, respect of the ecosystem, gravity-feeding and biodynamic practices (activities linked to the lunar calendar) are prevalent at the domaine.  This is a domaine worth watching!  Check out: http://www.domainelabarroche.com/


2004 Hermitage, Chave: Deep ruby core.  A rich bouquet of sweet ripe fruit of red and black berries, black cherry and cassis, spiced up with black pepper and liquorice, complete with chocolate and earthy and herbal notes.  Despite challenges of this difficult vintage, this wine shows well-integrated acidity and ripe tannin, aromatic complexities, wrapped up in a structured yet supple frame with much roundness and weight.  Full of energy and life.  This wine of immense structure can be enjoyed now and will benefit from further cellaring.  Drink now and over next 15-20 years.   17.5/20    

The Chave estate has been operating since 1481 and is now managed by Jean Louis Chave, a graduate of UC Davis. The Chave family owns vines in 9 of the 18 vineyards of Hermitage, each expressing its own terroir and demonstrating unique characteristics.  Finesse, structure and complexity are at the heart of the Chave style.  The family firmly upholds the belief that "it is the terroirs that make the wine" and it is this belief that forms their guiding principle in the viticulture, the selection of wine for the final blend and the vinification.  The blending for the red typically comes from these vineyards:

Les Bessards: the backbone of the wine providing colour and intensity. Les Bessards is one of the greatest vineyards on the hill, a large site on granite soils at the western end.

Le Méal: another large site, next to Les Bessards, but with more chalky soils.  This provides the aromatics.
L'Hermite: a monopole, discussed above, providing the supple edge. There are 15% white grapevines planted with the red in this vineyard. (The appellation rules permit the use of up to 15% white grapes in the final blend.)
Les Roucoles: despite this site being favoured for white grapes, a small amount of red from this vineyard provides some tannic structure to the final blend.
Peléat: discussed above, another monopole, providing colour, tannin and character.

Separately vinified before blending.  Fermentation in stainless steel or open wooden vats. The wine sees some wood, including new and old barrels, and 13 hectolitre-casks, depending on the vintage and the blend.
 
Love to try the white from Chave, which is also of very high quality!
 
We finished with a sweet wine from Aix-en-Provence: Margot, Domaine de La Brillane.  Margot was the brainchild between Chef Gérald Passédat of Le Petit Nice, Marseille, and the domaine, conceived in 2007.  They both wanted to create a unique wine that expresses the essence of the south, the flavours and the aromas.  The resultant wine is a dessert wine, made organically, in a class of its own, and is a great match with dessert and chocolate dishes, as well as foie-gras based dishes.  100% Grenache (from vines of around 45 years of age).  The grapes were dried for 2 months before fermentation to concentrate the acidities and the sugars.  Only 500 bottles made. There is a firm tannic structure, but it can be enjoyed at youth or with some age.  On the nose, dried raisins, Chinese dates, orange peel, Christmas pudding and fig preserve.  Sweet, without being cloying, just the right amount of freshness. Website: http://www.labrillane.com/
 
I had brought this wine back to Hong Kong after my stay at Le Petit Nice this summer but had not tried it until this evening.  At this dinner, it was used to pair with the pan-fried Eight Treasure Rice, one of my favourite desserts from Shanghainese cuisine.  Another dessert that this would work well would be the Pan-Fried lotus seed paste pancake......And of course Christmas pudding!! 
 
A quick word on the food.....very nicely presented and well-excuted food.  I enjoyed all the dishes, perhaps least favourite being the duck, a bit on the tough side.  The Shanghainese dumplings and the pork buns were very delicious.  The best part was the professional service and the spacious dining room....quite a rare find in Hong Kong.  Do give this a try next time you're looking for a Shanghainese restaurant for your wine dinners. 

2000 Richebourg, DRC and 2004 Cristal

24 Dec 2011:  Christmas Eve dinner at the China Club in Hong Kong.  A fine occasion to share a bottle or two of something special.  2004 Cristal, Louis Roederer: 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay. Beautiful pure fruit of apple and citrus, layered with floral and mineral nuances. I can only think of linearity and precision for this well-crafted champagne of phenomenal delicacy and elegance. Creamy mousse and full of vibrant positive energy.  This wine will reward the patient collector, but it can easily be enjoyed today.   18/20

2000 Richebourg, DRC:  After about half an hour of aeration, gorgeously ripe red cherry, pot pourri, forest floor, truffle and a richly spicy nose, infiltrated with the hallmark minerality. Harmoniously balanced, perfect acidity, with well-integrated fine tannin giving the wine a velvety and mouthcoating texture in a mid-weight frame, guiding the delicate and complex flavours permeate the palate. Not the richest, nor most powerful or structured Richebourg, but the pedigree, aromatic seduction and sophistication are very evident.  Quite refined. We took the remainder of the bottle home and it had graduated into this totally seductive, sumptuous and velvety nectar, with a very long finish!  There was a fine Richebourg!  This wine can do with a few more years of cellaring for best enjoyment and it should provide some very fine enjoyment over 15+ years! 18+/20   

Apart from the first two courses which were seriously and unforgivably disappointing (barbecued pork that could be made into tough old boots and stone-cold Peking duck and pancakes - the pancakes were so cold that they went soggy and stuck together!), the other dishes, while not of first class gourmet quality, did live up to the usual expectations.  For this wintry season, I recommend two claypot dishes: braised garoupa with beancurd and spring onion and aubergines and minced pork!   

A few magnums and Christmas is almost here!!!

23 Dec 2011:  Our annual pre-Christmas celebration at home....always a nice reminder that Christmas is just a couple of days away!  This year Richard and I shared the cooking duties.....Our menu read:

Amuse Bouche: Ivy's Prawn Toast and Engel's Samosas
Starter: Ivy's oven-roasted halibut in a lightly spicy lemongrass and coriander broth
Main Course: Richard's braised beef in rich red wine sauce, served with fingerling potatoes and pea shoots
The best of English cheese: Stinking Bishop, Mrs. Montgomery's Cheddar and Stilton
Dessert: Carribean rum cake and mince pies, served with rum butter (so yummy that I highly recommend anyone to rush out to M&S to secure a few pots!)

All the wines were in magnum format, except the champagne and dessert wine:

1990 Krug: Light golden hue.  A rich and mature nose of savoury, mushroom, gingerbread, kumquat confit, honey and caramel.  Creamy mousse, very fine bubbles, and a harmonious wine, perhaps a touch lacking in vibrancy and energy. Long finish. Drink now. 17.5/20

1996 Leflaive Chevalier Montrachet (in magnum): This tasted much fresher and much more youthful than the 750 ml bottle we had 3 weeks ago, in fact almost like a different wine!  Heaps of minerality, some citrus and floral character.  Beautifully structured, showing real pedigree, class and purity. Suitably weighty, and deftly balanced by firm acidity. Finishes very long.  A glorious wine that is so easily enjoyed now and has at least another 15+ years of drinking window.  19/20

1989 Haut Brion (in magnum): Ruby core. Compared to the 1990, a much more tertiary nose of smokey, earthy, leather, cedar, graphite and savoury....some blue and black berries and liquorice notes. Elegantly structured and velvety texture.  Acidity not particularly high and well-integated tannin. Glorious and majestic. Drink now and over next 20 years. 18.5/20

1990 Haut Brion (in magnum): Deeper ruby.  Some similarity on the nose: smoke, tobacco, plum, black cherry, blackberry and cassis, lifted by some spicy and earthy notes.  Compared to the 1989, this shows more energy on the palate, a bit more acidity and a more rounded mouthfeel.  If 1989 could be described as elegant and graceful, then the 1990 was rather voluptuous, plump and supple.  After 3 hours, the wine shut down a bit in the glass, and the mid palate went a little hollow.  Equally long finish.  Drink now and over next 20+ years.   19/20

We left 2 glasses of each wine out as benchmark and had totally forgotten about them until the following morning. One of them showed clear signs of deterioration while the other smelt and tasted still rather fresh......the winner was interestingly the 1990, and not the legendary 100-pointer 1989!

2001 Climens: Golden core, with amber highlights.  Orange marmalade, apricot and honey. Racy acidity, balancing the richness. Very very long finish.  Drink now and over next 50+ years. 18/20

The irresistible rum cake!!!

Unfortunately the Climens had to compete a bit with the rum cake, which was a really very pleasant surpirse!  I bought this cake in August at the airport in Barbados, quite by accident.  I was actually looking for aged rum, but didn't find many fine samples.  Then I overheard someone saying, "These are the best rum cakes" in front of the Tortuga shelf (as there were two brands competing side by side). So I joined the crowd browsing the immense selection of rum cakes of different flavours: original, coffee, banana, key lime, chocolate, coconut, etc.  I chose the Original Version of the Tortuga brand of Carribean Rum Cake, apparently from the Cayman Islands (and they ship worldwide!!! Check out: http://www.tortugarums.com/).  Soft and moist, totally infused with spices and rum, and made even more irresistible with a good dollop of Marks & Spencer's spiced rum butter!!!  If you are a big fan of moist carrot cake with lots of sour cream icing, think rum and you have this version of rum cake, topped with rum butter!  I highly recommend! (And the mince pies came from M&S too - yummy!)

Happy Holidays, everyone!!!

2001 Bouchard Montrachet

22 Dec 2011:  Dinner at Amuse-Bouche.  Always a great meal there, with extremely professional and friendly service and perfectly executed dishes.

The 2001 Bouchard Montrachet was sensational.  An enticing perfume of white peach, tropical fruit and white flower notes overlaid with mineral, savoury and spicy nuances.  Intensifying bouquet with further aeration, which gives the wine more complexity and body.  Beautifully textured, rich but not heavy, lifted by very vibrant acidity.  Love the very long and spicy finish.  Drink now or even better in 2 - 3 years, with a very long life ahead.  18/20

This was followed by a 1985 Charles Noellat Richebourg which had a hard act to follow.  Garnet.  Very tertiary nose of gamey, leather, coffee, dried rose petals, autumn leaves, earthy and balsamic.  Sweet fruit on entry.  Though no lacking in complexity, it was not as fleshy and opulent as one would expect from a Grand Cru.....rather weak on the palate.  Slightly drying finish.  Drink now and over next 4 - 5 years. 17/20

2004 Le Petit Cheval (half bottle)

22 Dec 2011: 2004 Le Petit Cheval (half bottle): 50% Merlot; 50% Cabernet Franc.  Black cherry, blackberry preserve, cassis, graphite, liquorice, tobacco, smoke, vanilla, toasty oak, with just a hint of cedar. Medium tannin. Good acidity. Velvety. So easy to adore and even easier to drink! Lovely finish, though on the short and simple side. Drink now and over next 6 - 8 years. 16/20

1978 Brane Cantenac in magnum

22 Dec 2011: Kicking off the Christmas celebrations with a magnum of 1978 Brane Cantenac! Garnet core, bricking at the rim.  Mature and spicy bouquet of leather, earthy, stony, savoury and cigar smoke. Silky tannin, very smooth texture and not much acidity. Harmonious, mellow and balanced, while not exhilarating. Finish could be a bit longer but lovely palate. Drinking at peak, with no signs of deterioration as yet, but I wouldn't hold onto these magnums for too much longer, say 2 - 3 years for best enjoyment!  16.5/20

2006 La Mission Haut Brion

17 Dec 2011: Last night, we went to the Commanderie de Bordeaux Gala Dinner.  As usual, lots of inductions (including Richard's) that took a good part of half an hour before food arrived.  The first course should have been named 'Death by Foie Gras'.....I have not seen so much foie gras on one plate......foie gras terrine with black truffle, foie gras foam and pan fried foie gras with pain d'épicé crust......The Aile d'Argent Blanc 2007 did a good job pairing with it.  The honey, lanolin, passion fruit, elderflower and slightly grassy and herbal nose, with a medium weight body, and fresh acidity to balance the richness on the palate, paired just well with the foie gras.  Drink now and over next 8 - 10 years.  16/20   The Pavillon Rouge 2004 in magnum, which showed some smokey and earthy character, underneath the slightly green and underripe nose......was a little ungenerous and disappointing.  Drink now and for next 4 - 5 years?  15/20

I was not sure why the second course of double boiled black truffle consommé with forest mushroom ravioli was chosen to pair with the Grand Puy Lacoste 2006 and Calon Ségur 2004.   Lovely nose for the Grand Puy Lacoste: plum, cassis, black cherry, liquorice, chocolate, slightly smokey and some minerality...the acidity was lower and the finish, though rounded and smooth, was a little on the short side, after the textured body and smooth ripe tannin structure.  Perhaps it was heading for a shutdown......16/20  None of us found the Calon Ségur 2004 endearing at all.....quite a lot of underripeness, lead pencil, graphite.  Astringent tannin.  15.5/20

The 2006 La Mission Haut Brion was chosen to pair with the slow roasted tenderloin, with braised oxtail buckwheat crepe roulade.  Defnitely for me, star of the evening.  It showed lovely terroir characteristics, gravelling, smokey, spicy and violet, plus a concentrated fruit ripeness which I liked.  Excellent acidity and ripe smooth tannin, all wrapped up in a firm but rounded structure with plenty of density and minerality.  Yummy.  Not sure how long it was opened for, but you could argue that it's still not ready....but I rather like the acidity and the structure to go with the food. Drink now and over next 25+ years.   18.5/20

I found the 1998 Mouton Rothschild slightly disappointing.  I found it rather austere, ungenerous and somewhat on the lean and mean side.  Something herbal and earthy on the nose.  Rather quiet and subdued for a wine of its stature. An uninteresting finish.  Drink now and over next 10+ years......17/20  Strangely it was used to pair with the cheese, deep fried Brie de Meaux spring rolls - a number of us complained that there was no cheese inside the spring rolls, just some crispy skin and some chutney!

The dessert platter was rather nice and a nice match with the 1997 Coutet - honey, gingerbread, orange peel and pineapple.  Quite nice. 16/20

A few charity announcements in the middle.....hope they sold lots of the watches designed by local students......rather smart!

So there ended the 25th Anniversary series of wine dinners.....for the HK Chapter of the Commanderie de Bordeaux.......a jovial and well-attended event! 

La Romanee, etc.......

15 Dec 2011: A short while ago a group of us took advantage of a friend's booking at TBLS (our friend couldn't use it and didn't want to let it go to waste - so I quickly snapped it up!).  TBLS (for Tablespoon) is a cosy little restaurant tucked away on the top floor of a commercial block on Hollywood Road.  Based on the concept of favourite comfort food dishes, Chef Que Vinh Dang embellishes them with fresh local ingredients, his very individual creative twist and innovative presentation.  The results are simply jaw-droppingly delicious.  The open kitchen ambiance lends further intimacy to the diners and the culinary team. Check out the website: http://www.tbls-kitchenstudio.com/ 

There is a new menu every month and as we arrived on 1st December, we were among the first to sample the December menu - "Best of 2011":

Soup & Sandwich:

Sweet Corn Soup with Paprika Popcorn
Chiptole Pork Belly Sandwich with Oaxaca Cheese, Avocado and Pickled Onions

Happy Memories:
Sobrassada, Poached Egg, Garlic Mashed Potato, Crispy Serrano Ham

Ceviche:
Yellowtail Ceviche, Smoked Pineapple, Fresh Guacamole, Tomato Water Jelly

Pastrami Brined Turkey:
Turkey Breast, Foie Gras, Sweet Potato Puree, Honey Mustard Cabbage, Sour Cherry and Pear Chutney

Jasmine Tea Party:
Jasmine Tea Panna Cotta, Strawberry Water, Milk Chocolate Mochi Ravioli

PB&J:
Peanut Butter Ice Cream, Homemade Strawberry Jam, Macaroon Sandwich




Soup and Sandwich at TBLS - the pork belly sandwich is simply sensational!



Happy Memories - looks more like a Steamed Vegetable Bun - that's what I call comfort food!!

My top marks went to the Soup and Sandwich course.......I could easily do with two of these and nothing else!  The Happy Memories dish was very innovatively presented but quite filling.  The turkey dish was the only disappointment....the turkey meat tasted quite rubbery and the foie gras was so rich that it kind of clashed with the rather delicate turkey meat.  The desserts were refreshing and thoughtfully presented, but I'm not a big fan of fancy desserts - yes, bring me some sticky toffee pudding, bread & butter pudding, apple and rhubarb crumble,.....!!!!

La Paulée style - so each of us brought a bottle.  Paul and David set the pace....Paul bringing a 2000 Coche-Dury Corton Charlemagne and David a 1966 La Romanée (bottled by Bichot).  Richard thought the 1962 La Romanée (bottled by Leroy) would make some interesting comparison and Mike brought a 1996 Leflaive Chevalier Montrachet.  My contribution was a Selosse Initial. 

NV Selosse Initial: 100% Chardonnay from Avize, Cramant and Oger, and blended from different vintages. This is a February 2009 disgorged bottle.  Creamy and textured, with layered nuances of savoury, mushroom, hazelnuts, freshed by honeysuckle, honey and toasty notes, caressing the palate.  Great sense of delineated minerality and terroir.  Beautifully crafted.  Love the acidity, complexity and the finish. Drink now and over next 8 - 10 years.  17.5/20 



2000 Coche-Dury Corton-Charlemagne and 1996 Leflaive Chevalier-Montrachet

 2000 Coche-Dury Corton-Charlemagne: Quite tightly wound and restrained, oozing of purity, linearity, nobility, tension and minerality, with masses of energy and power yet to be released.  Lime blossom, apple compote and a hint of candied fruit.  It just keeps evolving in the glass.  The cool character now matched rather well with the ceviche!  Drink now (with a good amount of aeration) and over next 15 - 20 years, with good cellaring. 18/20

1996 Leflaive Chevalier-Montrachet: Amazing freshness and youthfulness.  Really needs decanting if it's an available option.  Floral, toasty, smokey, some nutty character, with plenty of minerality bolstering the bouquet.  Palate gaining weight and further complexity in the glass, finding equilibrium with the racy acidity. Love the spicy finish.  A heavy weight wine, yet so fresh and vibrant to enjoy now.   A long long life ahead.  18+/20

1962 and 1966 La Romanée

1962 La Romanée (Leroy bottling): Last vintage under Leroy bottling.  Still ruby at core, bricking at rim.  Rather funky nose initially, settling into a very mature bouquet of animal, wet saddle, earthy, pomegranate and hoi sin sauce. Acidity a bit too prominent.  The silky texture a saving feature.  A bit disappointing as a grand cru.  Bottle number 329.  Drink now!  15.5/20 

1966 La Romanée (Bichot bottling): Bichot did the bottling between 1963 and 1975 for this wine.  Now this is proper Grand Cru material, with a classy and sophisticated mature bouquet of coffee, earthy, autumn leaves on the forest floor and some spicy notes.  Impressive by its sheer class and elegance.  Silky frame, with a slight acidity kick on the aftertaste, which could benefit from a bit more time to settle down in the glass/decanter.  (We kind of hurried through the 2 reds, as we probably spent too long on the white wines which paired better with the dishes at TBLS.....) Finishes long.  Drink now and over next 8 - 10 years, depending on storage.  17.5/20    
Decently respectable, the La Romanées didn't quite provide the wow factor, but the whites certainly did a very impressive job.  Given how little faith I have in old burgs and potentially premoxed whites, I actually brought a couple of back-ups! 

I will definitely return to TBLS if I get lucky with the booking again, but I will probably do it slightly differently.....keep to a simple wine theme and have all the reds and whites on the table for everyone to help themselves, as the menu does not quite allow a natural transition from white to red.....

1997 Leroy Clos de La Roche

11 Dec 2011: Garnet core, bricking at the rim.  Quite bretty initially, and a slight metallic taste.  After about an hour of decanting, red cherry, five spice, saddle, dried rose petal and forest floor on the nose, with a whiff of caramel, with savoury and minerally/wet stones nuances on the palate.  Silky tannin, initially the acidity somewhat stuck out, with aeration the fruit came out and the wine took on some balance and harmony, even if it was way past its best days.  Slightly sweet finish.  Drink now!  Better with food - it did a very respectable job pairing with the roast pork loin, with caramelised apple jus, and mashed swede! 16/20

Bordeaux 2000 and 2001

10 Dec 2011: Dinner at Ta Pantry, a very charming 1-table only private kitchen in the setting of a cosy apartment, on Star Street in HK. Esther (Proprietor and Head Chef) had already committed to another event but we were very well looked after by the team of chefs and waiter as well as Esther's sister.  Ta Pantry offers different set menus, all based on Esther's interpretation of different regional cuisine types. Our theme was L'Indochine.  I liked most the starter of Hokkaido scallop in a green mango curry carpaccio, on sea urchin cream and the Coco Balsamic linguine tossed with exotic mushrooms (probably could do without the squid).  (Patrick and I asked for seconds, but they said they had run out!) The crabmeat ravioli in lemongrass scented chicken broth was delicious but I thought the pasta was a little too chewy for the delicately-flavoured broth.....wonton skin might be a better alternative.....I didn't try the veal cheek cooked with star anise, accompanied by compote of mint and pineapple, and brussel sprouts, which looked delicious but the portion looked quite small to me, given that we kind of needed more meaty sustenance to keep up with the flight of hearty wines!  A nice cheese platter and dessert of red wine poached pear crumble, with tapioca and tiramisu ice-cream rounded up the evening.

Each couple (sorry Christine couldn't join us) brought 2 bottles, one each from the 2000 and 2001 vintages, for their chosen Bordeaux château.  I thought that both 2000 and 2001 vintages were drinking beautifully now, although the 2000's, with the higher concentration, intensity and ripeness, would have much more evolution ahead in the bottle and a much longer life, longer than the 2001 by about 10 - 15 years, based on the bottles this evening.  The 2001's all showed a hint of greenness from this vintage, sometimes already apparent on the nose but much more evident on the palate.  The 2001's also had a slightly shorter finish (and slightly drying) compared with the 2000's.

As for the vintage conditions, 2000 enjoyed a hot dry August and September, with rain arriving around mid October. The wines are rich, robustly structured, deep-coloured and tannic, with good acidity.  These are wines for long-term cellaring.  2001 enjoyed a hot dry August but a cooler and drier September.  This resulted in less power and concentration but there would be more elegance and charm.  Merlot did well in 2001.  Rain arrived towards end of the harvest.

2001 Angélus, Saint-Emilion: Gratifying nose of black cherry, chocolate, mocha, liquorice,  and spicy, with plums and figs gradually coming to the fore.  Well-balanced and elegant, within a moderately proportioned supple structure, much less generous than the 2000.  Slightly drying finish. Best to be enjoyed with food.  Drink now and for next 6 - 8 years.  16/20

2000 Angélus, Saint Emilion: Very similar nose, but with much more intensity and concentratation than the 2001, enhanced by graphite, minerality and cigar box character.  An opulent and full-bodied wine of tremendous proportions and great textural richness, complete with elegantly layered complexities  and balancing acidity refreshing the palate.  Voluptuous and seductive.  A phenomenal effort and a substantial vin de garde. Suspect this would have a relatively high percentage of Cabernet Franc in the final blend.  Drinking now (with decanting time of 2 hours) and for next 20+ years.   18.5/20

2001 Vieux Château Certan, Pomerol: 70% Merlot and 30% Cabernet Franc. A rich bouquet of blackberry, black cherry, violet, liquorice, cedar and minerality.  Some slightly camphor/forest floor and leather nuances.  Very supple structure, with low-ish acidity and a ripe tannic structure, perhaps just a touch less concentrated than the 2000,  but this pair was probably closest stylistically than the other pairs.  Drink now and for the next 10 - 15+  years.   17/20

2000 Vieux Château Certan, Pomerol: 70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc, and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon.  Cassis, blackberry, violet, mocha, liquorice, underlined with minerality, with cedar after some aeration in the glass.  Very admirable for the purity of fruit, measured elegance and supple texture. Lower in acidity than the 2000 Angélus, but very firm tannic structure.   Finishes long - slightly drying.  An intellectual wine.  Definitely drinking now and for the next 15+ years.  17.5+/20


2001 Léoville Poyferré, Saint Julien: Something quite savoury here, with blackkcurrant leaf and plums. Well-textured and balanced.  Slightly bitter finish.  Drink now and for next 6- 8 years.  16/20

2000 Léoville Poyferré, Saint Julien:  (The field blend for Léoville Poyferré is typically 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, 8% Petit Verdot and 2% Cabernet Franc, with 75% new oak and ageing for upt to 20 months.) This was a beauty.  Very elegantly structured and velvety textured with rich fruit concentration and ripe but firm tannin. Savoury, minerally/graphite, blackcurrant, cassis, , blackberry compote and violet. Lingering finish.  Absolutely gorgeous.  Drinking very well now and for the next 15+ years.   18/20

2001 Gruaud Larose, Saint Julien: I found this rather austere and rather backward, not eager to please.  I suspect this might improve with more decanting time.  Some tobacco, leather and herbal notes accompanying the plum and star anise and clove spices.  Rather lighter in structure.  Drink now and for next 6 - 8 years.  16/20 

2000 Gruaud Larose, Saint Julien:  (The field blend is around 61% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Merlot and 5% each for Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, with around 50% new oak.)  A classic Saint Julien, showing some of the muscles, balanced by supple elegance.  Blueberry and blackberry, violet, herbal, leather and something from the forest floor.  This shows more evolution than the Léoville Poyferré.  Beautiful to drink now and for the next 15+ years.  17.5/20


Thank you to Jonathan and Lorraine for hosting us.  My vote would be the Angélus 2000 as my top wine, followed by the Léoville Poyferré 2000.  Best 2001 was the Vieux Château Certan.  All great wines and really perfect with food at this relative young age!

The Premium Super Second Growth - Cos d'Estournel

2 December 2011: In celebration of its 25th Anniversary, the HK Chapter of Commanderie de Bordeaux had organised a series of special dinners, sourcing wine directly from the châteaux.  On this evening, it was Château Cos d'Estournel.  Président Directeur Général Jean-Guillaume Prats spoke with much enthusiasm and pride of the achievements Bordeaux had made in this Century, with the help of global warming, and enhanced capital for investment in wineries and vineyards, making great wines a regular possibility.  He also very politically correctly applauded the audience in continuing to support Bordeaux, buying Bordeaux wine even with the staggering case prices.

The Grand Hyatt did a great job with the dishes, in particular I really enjoyed the pairing of braised venison shoulder with 2005 Cos d'Estournel!

Marinated Scallop Carpaccio and Lobster Tartar on Cauliflower Pannacotta, Oscietra Caviar

Pan-fried Foie Gras with Brioche and Dry Fruit Crust, Winter Berry Jelly, Mache and Light Coffee Foam

Slow-roasted Venison Loin and Truffle Crepinette, Braised Shoulder, Mushrooms, Chestnut Puree, Shallots Fondant, Juniper-Rosemary Jus

Baked Vacherin cheese with Oven Fresh Baguette

Pear William Creme Chibouste with Vanilla Poached Pear, Cassis Ice Cream and Fig

2008 Cos d'Estournel Blanc: 80% Sauvignon Blanc and 20% Semillon.   Elderflower, grapefruit, a salty minerality.  Medium-bodied, the mild richness well-balanced by acidity just right.  Did a great job pairing with the sweet raw scallop.  15.5/20

2007 Cos d'Estournel: 2007, a vintage saved by an Indian summer, late harvest, towards end of the ripening season, Jean-Guillaume compared to 1979.  85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Merlot, and 3% Cabernet Franc.  In the words of Jean-Guillaume, fruity and seductive.  Plum, black cherry pie, cassis, incense, bergamot, liquorice and some toasted oak. Very smooth tannin, with only the slightest hint of astringency. Medium bodied.  Drinking very well now (a great food wine!) and for the next 12+ years.  17/20 

2002 Cos d'Estournel: Likened to 1955 by Jean-Guillaume, very smalll berries and very little juice.  Much less generous than the 2007.  Blackcurrant leaf, cigar box, mixed berries (more red than black), with a hint of herbaceousness.  Not showing its best here.  Rather reserved, slightly mean on the palate.  Lighter bodied than the 2007 vintage.  Drink now and for next 10+ years.  15.5/20

2005 Cos d'Estournel: 2005 vintage: very long ripening season from budding to flowering; humid winter giving the vines a good water reserve, very dry summer, rain in early August (helped veraison), very cool nights in September. 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, blended with 19% Merlot and 3% Cabernet Franc. Gorgeous beauty, with an aristocratic nose,  regal power and yet supreme elegance. Plum, blackberries, chocolate, cardamon spices, cayenne pepper, with a hint of leather. Ripe palate-coating velvety texture, with firm acidity giving the wine such regal poise.  Long sweet finish.  Surprising drinking very well now, and for the next 30+ years!  19.5/20

2000 Cos d'Estournel: 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 38% Merlot, and 2% Cabernet Franc.  Lead pencil, black cherry, herbal, violet and cedar, only very lightly spiced. Where the 2005 was powerful and elegant, 2002 was graceful and charming, but much more evolved. A lovely wine but not one for the very long haul.  Drink now and for next 10 - 15 years. 16.5/20     

We didn't have the 2003 Cos d'Estournel, which when I last tasted a year ago was nowhere near ready for drinking.  Jean-Guillaume briefly talked about the challenges from the heat wave in 2003.  It was 46 degrees Celsius in Bordeaux and the topsoil measured 52 degrees Celsius.  2003 could certainly look forward to the lasting greatness of 1961 and 1982!     
   
All fabulous wines that just proved the great improvements this chateau had made in this decade - simply stunning wines!  Everyone's favourite seemed clearly the 2005, but I was also rather fond of the 2007, especially to accompany food with spicy or complexly flavoured dishes (thinking of meatballs in spicy tomato sauce, those gourmet mini-burgers or chicken or lamb tagine with cous-cous or even just a well-seasoned lasagne!!!  Yummy!).