Saturday 9 July 2011

A Tour in the English Country: Day 7 - The Waterside Inn

30 June 2011: Final stop before heading back to London – The Waterside Inn, Bray. Over the years, we’ve had a few memorable meals at the Waterside Inn - the location and the restaurant are so unique that we always try to come back to visit. We got here in good time for a stroll around the cricket grounds and the village, stopping to check out the menu at the Fat Duck, before heading back to the Waterside Inn, for a glass of bubbly before dinner. Sitting within centimetres’ reach of the Thames, a glass of champagne in the hand, watching the traffic of ducks and rowers up and down the river, we blended into the idyllic landscape of serenity and bliss. It was a moment to remember and cherish. By the time, we returned to the dining room after changing into more respectable attire, we were shown to our table, first time ever for us that we were offered a table with a view – what a treat!


Wild salmon with wild rice
 I started with a chilled gazpacho, with crayfish and peach, followed by a wild salmon on a bed of wild rice. The salmon was absolutely gorgeous, fresh and perfectly undercooked. Richard had a delicious lobster salad, a la façon Caesar, followed by côte de boeuf. We both thought the salmon was the best dish amongst the four dishes. The beef was tasty, but perhaps lacked the “wow” factor. Reflecting on our experience at the Whatley Manor, which was a 2-star restaurant, we felt that on this occasion, the cooking at the Waterside Inn wasn’t exactly a star above, and certainly compared less well with the Whatley Manor, in terms of creativity and innovation. The Waterside Inn for us would best be described as a restaurant steeped in tradition, with the very slightest touching up. Where the Waterside Inn excelled was the provision of seamlessly professional service, the ambiance of the dining room, the superb location and its long and respected tradition. In fact, I spotted a lipstick mark on my white wine glass after they poured the white wine into the glass…it was a little offputting, the type of mishap I would not expect at a 3-Michelin star institution.  When my salmon arrived, the filet was somewhat broken (i.e. not presented as an intact piece)....not exactly the presentation I would expect at a 3-Michelin star restaurant.  I thought Richard summarised it rather well: “3 star experience, 2.5 star food”!
For our wine selection, we had a half bottle of 2008 Meursault Navaux, Vincent Girardin. Lemony, with hints of pineapple and passion fruit, slowly building up some smokey and toasty complexity, as the wine took on a bit of weight in the glass. Perhaps better with food, than as an aperitif. A respectable effort. 15.5/20


The 2002 Volnay Les Mitans, Hubert de Montille was absolutely perfect for drinking now. Lots of subtle elegance and well-developed tertiary character. Leather and sous-bois, livened with the freshness of red cherry and slightly spicy. The tannins have largely mellowed while the acidity is still rather vivid, making this a very more-ish drink and perfect with food. At peak now, and will drink well for another 4 – 5 years for optimum enjoyment. 17/20
Richard had a glass of 2005 Suduiraut to go with his raspberry soufflé. The 2005 Suduiraut had some richness and a delicate balance. Perfectly fine, but not too exciting though.
Breakfast is always a delightful experience at the Waterside Inn. The tray was brought at exactly the specified time. The kougloff was my absolute favourite, with a bit of homemade rhubarb preserve! Yummy! The pain au chocolat was also divine!

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