28 June 2011: We left Derbyshire in the morning and drove down to Gloucestershire. We took a detour to visit Vinothèque at Burton-on-Trent, out of curiosity about the storage conditions. It was an old grain barn, with walls made of 4 layers. Although it was relatively cool inside, there was no obvious temperature control, which begged my question of what would happen on really hot days, as England has not been spared of global warming havoc. I think the response we got was that they’re looking into it. There’s also the question of humidity control, as the building is above ground……
We checked into Whatley Manor and very quickly we set off for dinner with our friends in a pub with rooms called The Wheatsheaf, in a little village called Combe Hay. It was a very charming spot and we were very pleased to be greeted with a glass of Selosse 1997. Lemon-golden hue, very fine and gentle bubbles. Lemon confit, floral, grilled hazelnuts, honey and a yeasty toasty nose. Intricate, complex and flamboyant. A sumptuous wine and perhaps better with food, than as an aperitif. Well-filled out mid-palate and a lengthy finish. 18.5/20
Then we had a 1993 Le Montrachet, Jadot. Golden colour. Very smoky, honey, creamy, brioche, layered with fruit character of fig and guava, as well as some candied ginger. Medium-full bodied. Slightly spicy finish. A very fine effort and beautifully aged. 17.5/20
Next up were two Gevrey Chambertin Clos Saint Jacques by Roussseau – 1989 and 1990. I thought the 1990 started off being more rounded and then the 1989 slowly caught up in the glass and turned out to be the better wine. 1989: a little bit more austere at the beginning, more delineated and structured, with a very persistent finish. Very classy nose of farmyard, earthy, cherry and spicy. Drinking well now with some aeration, and should continue to drink well for another 8 - 10 years. 18/20 1990: A very attractive nose of plum, cherry and floral, with just hints of mushroom. Pure and elegant. Finish rather shorter than the 1989. Drinking perfectly now, and for next 3 - 4 years for optimum enjoyment. 17/20
Then we had two Romanée Saint Vivant, DRC. The 64 bottle had the Marey-Monge label and the 1978 had the DRC domaine label. I rather prefer the 1964 for the firmer structure and opulence – smoky, cherry clafoutis and warm spices. A very filled-out and integrated palate. Very lengthy finish. It took an hour to open up in the glass. 18.5/20 The 1978 for me was sweet caramel, cinnamon, with a hint of coffee and sweet leather. Very charming nose, almost autumnal. Elegant, if a little lean. The acidity was sticking out a bit, with just a hint of volatility. This bottle could be better 5 – 6 years ago and should have been drunk. 17.5/20
David then arranged a bottle of 1995 L’Evangile to accompany our cheese platter……I took a sip and it was really delicious now! I rather stuck to what burgundy wine remained in my glass!
Thank you David, for a delicious meal! Great country food, in totally unpretentious surroundings!
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