Saturday 9 July 2011

Dinner at the Capital Hotel, London - 1979 Margaux in Magnum

1 July 2011: Dinner at the Capital Hotel in London. A very good opportunity to catch up with a few friends. Despite the slightly cramped dining area, the food is always good and honest, if lacking a little excitement. 4 of us had the grilled turbot as main course, which Richard had highly recommended. David and Nick shared the black-feet chicken. I thought the duck foie gras ravioli that almost everyone had looked rather good, as did David’s hand-dived scallops with black pudding. As for wines, we had prepared a 1979 Margaux magnum for the occasion, and Nick very kindly supplied the rest!
2002 Corton Charlemagne, Patrick Javillier: Lemony, guava, spicy (ginger and cinnamon), underlined with plenty of minerality. Firm structure, beautifully integrated acidity, if a little austere in the beginning, but opened up slowly in the glass. Persistent finish. 17.5/20
1996 Meursault Charmes, Leroy: A fully mature wine, displaying a tertiary nose of hazelnuts, digestive biscuits, figs and liquorice. Medium body, still perked up by good level of acidity. Drinking at peak now. Went rather well with the duck foie gras ravioli, I would have thought? 17/20
1979 Margaux (in magnum): Very distinctive nose of tobacco, violet, cedar and leather. A little astringent on the palate, but still showing firm acidity. Balanced and harmonious. A smooth and sweet finish. A well-made wine, and drinking beautifully now, if lacking a little excitement. 17.5/20
1970 Doisy-Vedrines: bright golden in colour, with some copper highlights. Apricot, marmalade, honey, smokey and spicy. Very well-balanced and well-matured. Still very lively acidity. Very more-ish. Finishes long. 17.5/20
1986 Doisy-Vedrines: much less exciting than the 1970…well-balanced, but quite simple and uninteresting. 15.5/20
What a delightful evening – I think we sort of planned our next gathering at La Réserve in Beaulieu! Can’t wait!

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