Perfect Match: 1989 Château Margaux and Stir-Fried Glutinous Rice, with Chinese Sausage

20 Dec 2010: Inaugural VV Monday Supper Club.  Each invitee brings a bottle of wine based on the chosen theme.  The theme for this Monday was "First Growth or Grand Cru" and I hosted it at the China Club.  I thought it would be fun to see how the wines paired with the various Chinese dishes.  Most of the wines of the evening had been double-decanted:

2002 Chablis Grand Cru Bougros, Côte de Bouguerots, William Fèvre
2006 Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru, Faiveley
1990 Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru, Bonneau du Martray
2006 Clos Saint Denis Grand Cru, Pascal Lachaux
1989 Château Margaux
1983 Château Mouton Rothschild

Unfortunately, the 2002 Chablis was madeirised.  So we started with the 2006 Corton Charlemagne,  Faiveley (AM 91-94; Drink 2013+).  It had been opened (not decanted) for an hour.  Lemon curd, green apple, lightly mineral, ginger and spicy notes, complemented by toast and smoke nuances.  With time in the glass, the wine took on more body and added buttery and nutty character to the flavours.  Well-structured, classic, with the just the right amount of rounded character and richness, and a lengthy finish.  Slightly too young to drink now (if you must, decanting is absolutely required) and will drink well for the next 10 - 15 years.  17/20

We only decided to open the 1990 Corton Charlemagne, Bonneau du Martray (AM93; Drink 2010+), when we realised that the 2002 Chablis was madeirised.   Therefore, it would only be fair to give this wine plenty of time in the glass to accommodate.  This wine displays precision and poise, and an almost timeless youthfulness.  It tasted so fresh, with firm acidity, complemented by intense character of mineral, citrus, guava, dried flower and cloves, with a just a very faint hint of buttery note.  Very long finish.  Drinking beautifully now, and for the next 10 - 15 years, if kept in perfect condition.  17.5/20

2006 Clos Saint Denis, Pascal Lachaux (AM89-91; Drink 2012+), from Lachaux's recently set-up negociant business.  This business was intended to produce wines that would be early drinking, less structured and powerful than the domaine wines.  This wine was a fine illustration of the style of the negociant business.  Very elegant, showing attractive and demure red fruit character of raspberry and redcurrant, complemented by some herbal and earthy notes.  Well-made and balanced, but could perhaps do with more length and character.  16/20   It was a perfect match with the Peking duck, as the intense plum sauce flavours even complemented the subdued character of the wine.

1989 Château Margaux (RP89; Drink 2002 - 2022).  My most discovery this evening was that this 1989 Margaux went incredibly well with the stir-fried glutinous rice, with Chinese sausage (a very classic Cantonese wintry dish).  Aromatically, the two were totally complementary!  The bouquet of the 1989 Margaux was intensely floral (rose petal more than violet), smoky tobacco and earthy, with a hint of leather.  The otherwise silky texture, was marked by noticeable though much toned-down tannin which would need more time to resolve.  A very elegant wine, with an alluring perfume and fine structure.  Drinking perfectly well now, and will do for the next 10+ years.  17.5/20

1983 Château Mouton Rothschild (R91; Drink till 2015).  If the Margaux was all about elegance and charm, then the Mouton was all about austerity and masculinity.  This Mouton displayed its characteristic cedar and lead pencil (slightly herbaceous) nose, layered with some sweet blueberry fruit, violet, warm Chinese spices like ginger and cinnamon.  Structured, balanced, with good level of concentration and complexity.  Rather austere, and not an immediate charmer.  Tasting it now, this wine would have at least 8+ years of drinking period, if not more.  17.5/20

If I made one mistake in the ordering, it was the black pepper angus beef, which would have gone better with a Brunello or a super Tuscan!