Commanderie de Bordeaux Dinner

17 Dec 2010: Debra and I decided to join the annual BYO Commanderie de Bordeaux dinner, at the Grand Hyatt function room.  Each guest was greeted with a lovely pink glass of Delomotte and some really delicious amuse-bouches.  As ususal the GH team did a great job with the food and service, kudos to my neighbour, the hotel's F&B Manager who himself was gettting inducted on the same evening.   Each table was allocated a bottle of 2007 Cos d'Estournel Blanc and a bottle of 2003 Cos d'Estournel Rouge.  However, we were all encouraged to bring a bottle each and what fun we all had in sharing and enjoying the wines at our table! 

I thought the 2007 Cos d'Estournel Blanc (80% Sauvignon Blanc and 20% Semillon) while displaying charming aromas of pineapple, mango, figs, honey, toast, nutty and faint buttery character with refreshing acidity, was a little weak on the palate and the finish was rather short.  Perhaps the Semillon content needed more time to fill out?  I gave it 15.5/20 on this occasion.  The 2003 Cos d'Estournel tasted a little fruit forward for me.  I found the rich palate of stewed fruit, blackberry preserve, warm spices with a hint of cedar and tobacco a little tiring, and I was looking for a bit more energy and character in the wine.  I scored this wine 16/20.  It was also perhaps not that well complemented by the lobster starter, which was delicious, but probably would have gone better with a white burgundy in my view!

Around the table, we sampled these wines: 1990 Ducru Beaucaillou (brought by me), 1989 Pichon Baron, 2003 Pavie, 2001 La Conseillante, 1983 Montrose, 2005 Talbot and 1994 Vieux Chateau Certan. A brief comment on the wines:

1990 Ducru Beaucaillou: I originally thought the wine was corked as there was a very distinct damp and musty cardboard smell to it, giving the impression of possible cork taint (quite similar to what Robert Parker remarked on in his tasting notes).  However, on the palate, the wine did not exactly taste corked and still displayed very faint hints of fruit character, minerality and cedar.  The tannins have softened, giving a smooth texture and an elegant finish.  Definitely needed drinking; if anything, it was already past its peak!  13.5/20

1989 Pichon Baron: I have written about this wine many times.  Very consistent with past tasting notes.  Violet, blackfruit, blueberry, cedar, tobacco and a hint of spice.  Perfumed, elegant, with an attractive finish.  Drink well now and for the next 8+ years.  17/20

2003 Pavie: A wine of richness, intensity, concentration and understated charm.  Deep ruby colour, and a heady perfume of very ripe and vibrant black fruit, plums, balanced with spicy oak, liquorice, coffee and spicy notes.  Full-bodied, firm structure of acidity and soft ripe tannin. An extremely well-made wine and will benefit from a few more years of bottle ageing.  18.5/20

2001 La Conseillante: This sample certainly showed much charm and opulence.  A rich bouquet of coffee, chocolate, red and black fruit, violet and liquorice.  Drinking well now and for the next 6+ years. 17.5/20

1983 Montrose: This wine needed drinking as well.  Quite earthy and medicinal. Not very charming.  A total lack of interesting fruit character, probably wasn't even there when the wine was younger. 14/20

2005 Talbot: It took some time to get the double decanting right, but we got there in the end.  A very elegant wine, with lots of understated charm.  Smokey, slightly gamey, with lots of sweet red fruit, and just a hint of herbaceousness.  Just about ready to be drinking now (with proper decanting) and will continue to evolve for the next 8+ years. 16.5/20

1994 Vieux Chateau Certan: The wine lacked backbone and structure. Very weak on the palate.  Probably past its peak.  13.5/20

All in all, I was most impressed by the 2003 Pavie and when my glass was finished, I went back to the Delamotte that we started with!  Nice refreshing end to a fun evening!