Sunday 12 December 2010

1990 Grão Vasco Garrafeira

12 Dec 2010: Richard cannot even remember how he acquired this wine.  I have been intrigued by this bottle for a long time, mainly because of the lack of attention we have given it.  1990 Grão Vasco Garrafeira from Dão, a DOC region from Portugal.  Probable grape variety mix would be Jaen, Alfrocheiro, Touriga Nacional and Tinta Roriz.  Garrafiera would mean  a minimum requirement of 24 months in cask followed by 12 months in bottle before release.  I thought it would be amusing to open it on a Sunday night with our simple supper - tonight it was simply roasted chicken, served with a tomato-ketchup based sauce, an adaptation of the recipe from Marco Pierre White's latest book.  "Gobsmacked" would be an appropriate description of how we were taken by surprise by the quality of this wine!  Garnet ruby.  An intense and complex bouquet of red fruit, plums, overlaid with cloves, liquorice, wild herbs and wet leaves.  On the palate, coffee and chocolate came through to add to the complexity of this wine.  An elegant display of complexity and character, with a velvety texture of softened tannin but still firm acidity, finishing very long.  Beautifully matured, gloriously showcasing ripe and characterful fruit quality and cool climate complexity.  A marvellous effort.  I was only vaguely aware of the potential in winemaking of this region - Dão, but after this bottle, I was left in no doubt that there could be some really gorgeous wines coming out of this region, from the right hands.   These indigenous varieties are naturally blessed with a high level of acidity and with the right amount of ripening, they could be material for very ageworthy wines.  Sadly this was our last bottle and a great experience indeed!   18/20 

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