Thursday 20 December 2012

A Vega Sicilia Unico evening (with other interesting additions)

7 Dec 2012:  I was treated to a superb Spanish meal (complete with Spanish wine too!) at DN-Innovación in Taipei.  Chef Xavier Gutierrez (from Arzak) and chef Daniel Negreira (from DN-Innovación) joined forces to create a special menu for us. 

'SALT'
I particularly liked the dishes "Salt" where a piece of raw prawn was placed on top of some spicy sauce and on top of a bed of hardened salt.  A dip had been made in the salt bed whereby the green tea sauce was to be poured.  We had to wait a minute for the green tea sauce to take up some of the salty content before dipping the prawn in. The sweetness of the raw prawn married very well with the slightly saline green tea sauce, an ingenious creation!  This went beautifully with the 1975 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne or the 1946 Castillo Ygay Blanco Reserva Especial, which had taken on a quality not dissimilar to an aged Sercial! My other favourite dish would be the duck tiramisu!  The combination of almond and the taste of duck was unique and paired very well with the 1966 Vega Sicilia Unico!


Ladybird
 Dessert was a bright red ladybird, which was almost too pretty to be devoured!



The Vega Sicilia Line-Up
 As for the wines:
1975 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne: Amber hue.  Mature aromas of honey, hazelnut, mushroom and gingerbread greeted the nose. The palate was an elegant presentation of fine, persistent bubbles, with lively acidity, keeping the delicious flavours alive and the palate refreshed.  Long spicy finish.  A very fine aged champagne and would make a perfect pair with a number of the dishes, including the prawn described above, but also the little red "Bucket" - which contained mushroom dust/mousse and foie gras! 

2004 Que Bonito Cacareaba, Benjamin Romeo: A limited production white Rioja by Benjamin Romeo (Bodega Contador). About 5,000 bottles produced per year.  Mainly Garnacha Blanca, with the balance made up of Viura and Malvasia.  Very low yields.  Hand harvested.  Barrel fermented, followed by 8 months of ageing in new French oak barrels.  Pale golden robe.  A honeyed, spicy and citrus nose, with nuances of herbs, quince, honeysuckle and beeswax.  Full-bodied, unctuous but balanced by good level of acidity. Still tasting relatively youthful and fresh.  (www.bodegacontador.com)

1946 Castillo Ygay Blanco Reserva Especial: Viura and Malvisa blend. Deep amber colour. A mature white Rioja, with notes of honey, caramel, toasted hazelnuts, mushroom, smoke, and some rancio character.  Light-bodied.  Still reasonably balanced, with a slightly tart finish.  Almost like an aged Sercial.

1973 Vega Sicilia Unico: Ruby colour, with no sign of bricking at all.  A gorgeous nose of plum, star fruit, nutmeg, tea leaves, leather and chocolate. A very elegant wine, still full of vigour, with silky tannin, vibrant acidity and a long finish. Drink now and over next 10+ years. 

1966 Vega Sicilia Unico: This seemed to have been made in a much more rustic style. Deep garnet colour.  Full-bodied, velvety, with richness from super ripe fruit.  Almost port-like, displaying notes of prunes, dates, Turkish coffee, Christmas pudding and hints of madeirisation. Finishes long.  More like a fortified wine.  Drink now.

1959 Vega Sicilia Unico: Garnet colour. Madeirised notes of prunes, fruit cake, marmalade, almost reminding one of a Scotch whisky, with just a hint of volatile acidity. Slightly tart finish.

1938 Vega Sicilia Unico: Pale garnet.  Notes of caramel, toffee and nutty notes, with slight hint of leather. Silky texture, savoury finish.

1963 Taylors: Deep ruby.  Still very youthful.  Quite spirity initially.  Sweet and velvety nectar, tasting of nuts, toffee, fruitcake and stewed prunes, balanced by vibrant acidity.  Long long finish.  Gorgeous!

This was the first of two evenings....and I couldn't wait!  Thank you so much to a very generous host!

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